Ukusuka emoyeni, indawo yaseMexico ifana nemephu yepapier-mâché, icwecwe iziko yiSierra Madre Oriental kunye neSierra Madre Occidental-iintaba eziphakamileyo eziphakame zaya kufikelela kwi-18,000 yeenyawo ezihamba ngokuhambelana neGulf of Mexico kunye noLwandlekazi lwePasifiki. . Iintsuku ezimbini emva kweKrisimesi, kunye nomyeni wam, uTom, sisendleleni eya eMexico. Isicwangciso sethu, sokuhlola ilizwe kunye ne-apos, sizixeko ezibalaseleyo zekoloniyali, zazalwa ziingxoxo ezijikelezayo kunye neencwadi ezifundwayo (kubandakanya imemori eccentric-amabali abhalwe ngaboyisi abolupheleyo, iingcinga ezomeleleyo zaseBritane, oonozakuzaku & apos; abafazi) kunye nokuzinikela kwethu ekuboneni inkcubeko, imbali yoyilo, kunye nokufumana izinto ezilungileyo zokutya.

Ixesha lekoloniyalizim laseMexico, xa lalibizwa ngokuba yiNew Spain, lathatha iminyaka engama-300, ukusukela kwinkulungwane ye-16 ukuya kwi-19. Ngaphandle kwe-Oaxaca, eyi-325 yeekhilomitha kumazantsi mpuma esiXeko saseMexico, iidolophu ezinkulu zekoloniyali zonke zikumbindi weMexico. Sithathe isigqibo sokutsiba indawo yokuhlala yaseSan Miguel de Allende kwaye siqwalasele iPuebla, iQuerétaro, iMorelia, iGuanajuato, neCuernavaca — nganye yazo uhambo olufutshane losuku ukusuka kwikomkhulu. Imbali kwizixeko zamakoloniyali ziqokelela umaleko ngokobume: iinkcubeko ezahlukeneyo zixubeka kwaye zixube Sizimisele ukudibana noku kudlulileyo, ngakumbi kwiidolophu & apos; amaziko embali, uninzi lwazo ziiNdawo zeLifa leMveli le-UNESCO. EMexico, sijonge into eyachazwa ngumhlobo 'njengeLizwe Elitsha kunye neApos;

Puebla

'Izitalato zasePuebla zicocekile kwaye zihlala zicocekile, izindlu zinkulu, indlu enkulu yecawa enkulu, indawo ebanzi kwaye intle,' ubhale watsho uFanny Calderón de la Barca, inkosikazi yaseSpain yaseSpain kunye nenxusa lokuqala kwiriphabliki entsha, ngo-1840. Ingqokelela yeeleta ezininzi zaseCalderón de la Barca zapapashwa ngo-1966 kwaye inenkcazo engalibalekiyo yesinxibo esinxitywe ngabafazi balapho: isketi esigwetywe ngokupheleleyo, ipitikoti emhlophe neblawuzi, i-rebozo enemibala eqaqambileyo (isikhafu eside), kunye namasongo amaninzi kunye izacholo zomqala ezenziwe ngeekorale neeperile. Ngokwentsomi, isinxibo sasiqala ukunxitywa ngu-China Poblana (Umfazi wase-China wase-Puebla), inkosazana yase-Asiya eyabanjwa ngabaphangi yaza yathengiswa kubukhoboka base-Mexico ngonyaka ka-1650. Eguqukele ebuKristwini, wachitha ubomi bakhe bonke ekhathalela abagulayo nabasesixekweni. kunye namahlwempu. Emva kokufa kwakhe, abaninzi bomthonyama poblanas yamkela iyunifomu yakhe engqindilili-umxube wokubonisana wase-Occidental, waseMpuma, kunye nezomthonyama-kwaye wayinxiba imbeko yakhe.

Isixeko sasePuebla sasekwa ngo-1532; Ngokungafaniyo nezinye izixeko zobukoloniyali, yayingeyakhekanga ngaphezulu kwedolophu esele ikho. Imiswe phakathi kweentaba-mlilo ecaleni kwendlela edibanisa izixeko zase-Acapulco naseVeracruz, yayiyindawo yokumisa kubarhwebi abahamba phakathi kweYurophu neAsia. I-Puebla & apos; ngokufanelekileyo iithayile zeTalavera zihombisa izakhiwo kunye nezinto zangaphakathi kuso sonke isixeko; iitafile zasetwa ngeeseramiki ezintle. Ihonjiswe kwiglazes ze-cobalt blues ezinzulu kunye ne-yellows eqaqambileyo, iipateni luyinto eqaqambileyo ye-Puebla kunye ne-apos ezininzi iimpembelelo zenkcubeko: babamba imiba yoyilo lwe-Islamic, Aztec, kunye ne-Art Nouveau.

Ngenye intsasa, eMesón Sacristía de la Compañía, ndithatha iklasi yokupheka noAlonso Hernández, umpheki omkhulu eCompañía kunye nehotele yayo engudade, iMesón Sacristía de las Capuchinas. U-Hernández uqulunqe uluhlu oludidi lwe-Pueblan kumxube wezithako ezikude kunye nezomthonyama. EMexico, ukutya kwangaphambili kweSpanishi, ukungeniswa kweYurophu, kunye nokufakelwa kweAsia kuhlangana ukuze kuveliswe ukutya okungafaniyo kweMestizo. Kwikhitshi langoku, uHernández ugoba iipepile kwi ikhoma, igridi yentsimbi esetyenziselwa ukupheka kwaseMexico amawaka eminyaka, kwaye igaya iziqholo ngokwesiko mzantsiem. Ngelixa ulungiselela ukubetha Iipilisi zepelepele ezifakwe itshizi kwi-caldillo, ubetha abamhlophe beqanda kwiincopho eziqinileyo. Ufunda ukungaguquguquki kwazo okomzuzwana — ziqinile kwaye zomile kakhulu. Ngequbuliso, uphakamisa isitya sokuxuba esentsimbi ngaphezulu kwentloko yakhe kwaye asibeke ngaphezulu: amaqanda amhlophe akahambi. Abafundi baqhwaba izandla, kwaye uHernández uqhekeza uncumo olungenakuphikiswa. Xa ndihamba, I & apos; ndinikwe ifolda ebandakanya iiresiphi, imbali yokutya kwaseMexico, kunye ne-primer kwiindidi zeetshisi. Njengoko uCalderón de la Barca etshilo, ichile 'yinto eyimfuneko ... njengetyuwa.'

Queretaro

Iimvakalelo zeBaroque kunye neMorish fuse kakhulu kwiQuerétaro. ILa Casa de la Marquesa yibhotwe lenkulungwane ye-18 lafunyanwa kwisitayile esiphakamileyo seMudejar: iindonga ezinamatye anqabileyo, iingqameko zamatye ezigobileyo, kunye neengcango ezinkulu ezenziwe ngomthi ezifanele iAlhambra. Isixeko & iapos; s cathedral ebukekayo, iTemplo de Santa Rosa de Viterbos, yayilelwe ngeenkcukacha zobunewunewu zaseMudejar, njengoko kubonwe kwinqaba yayo encinci kunye nokunyuka okubhabha, okuthi, ekuguqukeni ngesiquphe kweGothic, kubekwe ngobuso obungenantlonelo ngobuso be-gremlin. Ngaphakathi, icawe iyi-Baroque, enomtshato oqaqambileyo kunye nokuhonjiswa okufunekayo.

Embindini weQuerétaro, iindlela ezolileyo zidibanisa isixeko kunye neepaki zexesha lobukoloniyali kunye neplaza. Iidayorama zeKrisimesi kwiJardín Zenea zigqithele ngaphaya kwenkulisa yesiqhelo ukubandakanya amabali eBhayibhile ukusuka kwindalo ukuya ekugwetyweni nasekusindisweni. Asizange silindele ukumbona u-Adam no-Eva, kodwa kukubonakaliswa kwesihogo-impuku enkulu etshaya umsi ngamehlo abomvu, avuthayo-yeyona nto imangalisayo ngeholide. Ixesha leKrisimesi apha liqala ngoDisemba 16 kwaye liqala ngoJanuwari; Ngokwesiko, abantwana bafumana izipho zabo kwi-Epiphany, nge-6 kaJanuwari, xa ooKumkani abathathu banika izipho zabo kuKristu umntwana. Ukuzula malunga neQuerétaro, siyaqhubeka sibaleka kwiiKumkani ezintathu, amadoda aneendleko ezibonisa iiseti zexeshana kunye nezilwanyana zamaphepha, ezifumaneka kwiifoto zosapho. Ngakwimida yePlaza de Armas ethandekayo ziivenkile ezithengisa iithoyi ezenziwe ngezandla, esinye isikhumbuzi sobalo-mali olusondeleyo olubi.

I-Museo Regional de Querétaro, kwi-Ex Convento de San Francisco, ineqoqo elibanzi. Phakathi kwezinto ezigqame kakhulu ngumzobo wenkulungwane ye-18 obonisa umsele wamanzi iQuerétaro & apos; inja yodongwe yangaphambi kukaColumbian isukela umsila wayo ngokunomdla. kunye ne-Emperor Maximilian & apos; umbhobho omdaka we-meerschaum. IQuerétaro kulapho iphelile imisebenzi emfutshane kaMaximilian kunye ne-apos: wabulawa liqela labadubuli apha ngo-1867. Umsitho wabhalwa kuthotho lwemizobo eyenziwe ngu-oudouard Manet; kule myuziyam, usuku lumelwe yitafile apho umlawuli ongaphumelelanga abeke khona isidumbu kunye nebhokisi ecacileyo apho wayehanjiswa khona. Siyaphuma siye eCerro de las Campanas — ipaki ebizwa ngesandi esifana nentsimbi esenziwa ngamatye omthonyama xa ucofwa kunye — apho icawe yegumbi elinye (isipho esivela kurhulumente waseAustria) isikhumbuza ukubulawa. Ukusuka endulini, isixeko saseQuerétaro sichithela kwimizi mveliso kunye nothungelwano lweendlela.

Ngakumbi

IMorelia, isixeko esihle sobukoloniyali, yayibizwa ngokuba yiValladolid ngamaSpanish kwaye kamva yathiywa igama kwathiwa nguMorelos. Ikomkhulu lelizwe laseMichoacán, ikwintlambo ephezulu (kwii-6,400 iinyawo), idolophu entle eneeboulevards ezibanzi, iiplaza zobuhlanga, kunye nemibono ebanzi yelizwe. Iziko lalo elidityaniswe ngokudibeneyo likhumbuza iVicenza okanye i-Edinburgh kunye neApos; Idolophu eNtsha. Kwinkulungwane ye-16, uKumkani uPhilip II waseSpain wakhupha iLas Ordenenzas, iseti yemithetho yocwangciso lwedolophu ngokubhekisele kubume bezixeko zaseMelika zaseSpanish. Ngokwale mithetho, isixeko ngasinye kufuneka sibonakalise iplaza engqamene nezitalato ezine (iMorelia, ngokungaqhelekanga, ineeplaza ezimbini eziphambili); Izakhiwo ezijonge iplaza kufuneka zibandakanye imigangatho yomgangatho ophantsi, iiarched semipublic spaces ezidibanisa izakhiwo nesitalato. Ngokwembali, ezi zithuba zimnyama zibonelela ngendawo yokuba abantu belizwe bathengise iimpahla zabo esixekweni; namhlanje, ii-portals zikwahlala iivenkile zokutya, zinegalelo kwi-Morelia & apos; umoya obalulekileyo wentlalontle.

Kwihotele yethu-ibhotwe lesitiyopiya lenkulungwane ye-17 elisandula ukulungiswa ngumyili wezakhiwo uFernando Pérez Córdoba — sijongana nengxaki yoyilo olusisiseko lwezakhiwo zekoloniyali: igumbi elineebhaloni elijongene neplaza likhwaza; igumbi elingaphakathi elijonge ipatio limnyama. ELos Juaninos, igumbi lethu likhanya kancinane, kwaye iifestile zifakwe iintsimbi; Sivalelwe, nangona kunjalo, sivalwe yingxolo yasesitalatweni kwaye isandi esimnandi somculo weKrisimesi sisasaza singaphumi kumthi weKrisimesi kamasipala.

Iidolophu zekoloniyali zilungele ukuhamba: icwecwe, kodwa ityebile ngokwakha kwaye inyanzeliswa kukuqhuma okungalindelekanga kombala kunye nemifanekiso. EMorelia, kwenye yeeyunivesithi ezindala eMelika, iColegio de San Nicolás de Hidalgo, kukho umzobo odlamkileyo wowe-1929 wobomi bemihla ngemihla baseMichoacán nguMarion Greenwood, umzobi oselula waseMelika owayesebenza nomzobi uPablo O & apos; Higgins, ngummi waseMexico ozelwe eMelika kunye no-Diego Rivera noJosé Clemente Orozco. Iiholo zokufundisa zaseyunivesithi, ezihambelana nesiko laseYurophu, zibizwa amagumbi okufundela kwaye wabizwa ngokuba ziifilosofi ezinkulu; uphawu oluncinci lomthi olubhalwe amagqabi ngegolide lubonisa iAula Carlos Marx.

EMuseo del Dulce, imyuziyam yeelekese, sigcwalisa ibhasikithi ngezinto zokudlala ezenziwe ngezandla, ithanga lembewu ithambile, kunye izambane eliswiti , izithambisi ezinombala we-pastel ezenziwe ngeepasta ezinobhatata. Amantombazana akwishumi elivisayo athandanayo abiza iindleko njengoonongendi abathengisa iibhotile zeRompope, i-lignur enencasa ye-eggnog. Sima ukutya okulula, izimuncumuncu (Ngokwenyani 'ii-whims ezincinci,' njenge-quesadillas emnandi efakwe ngumngundo wombona huitlacoche, kwaye tacos al umfundisi ), Kwibhari enjengendlu ehotele iVirrey de Mendoza, ibhotwe elikhulu lenkulungwane ye-17 elakhelwe umcephezi wokuqala wesixeko. Emaphethelweni edolophu, umsele wamanzi omangalisayo wenkulungwane ye-18 — intendelezo entle yelitye elipinki — udibanisa iindawo ezisemaphandleni nezitrato zesixeko.

Guanajuato

Ithafa eliphakamileyo elisuka eMorelia liye eGuanajuato libonakala ngathi liphezulu kumachibi ajikelezileyo. Indlela yanamhlanje edolophini yehlela kwitonela elixineneyo elinomdongwe elineefolokhwe kwaye ekugqibeleni libonakala emaphethelweni e-Jardín de la Union, eGuanajuato kunye neepos; ezimilise okwenziwe ngoonxantathu, indawo ehamba ngeenyawo engqongwe yimithi ye-laurel kunye neefestile.

Ngeendlela zayo ezimxinwa zamatye, okanye indlela s , kunye nolwakhiwo lwe-piggledy ye-Higgledy, isixeko siyinto eyoyikisayo eMorelia: indawo yaseCubist ekuhlangatyezwane nayo emva kombono wobungangamsha obunengqiqo. IGuanajuato yindawo yokuzalwa yaseRivera, kwaye sityelele ikhaya lakhe lobuntwana, indlu yokuqala yama-Victorian eyakhiwe kwindawo enamatye eCentro Histórico. Ngaphakathi ngaphakathi kubekiwe kwipateni ye-crazy-quilt, ngokumangazayo indawo yokuhlala kunye neapos; indawo ezingaqhelekanga.

I-Museo y Casa de Diego Rivera iqulethe uluhlu olukhethekileyo lomsebenzi wegcisa kunye neapos, ukusukela kwimifanekiso eqingqiweyo yokuqala ukuya kwizifundo zemizobo yakhe edumileyo. Njengomculi oselula eFransi, kwiminyaka nje ngaphambi kweMfazwe Yehlabathi 1, uRivera wayenandipha impumelelo yakhe yokuqala: iliso lakhe elikhawulezayo kunye nesandla esithembekileyo sibonakala ngathi sisebenza ngokuzikhandla kwiCubism, umbono omkhulu awazalelwa kuwo.

Imyuziyam yengingqi yeGuanajuato kunye neapos iyadonsa kwaye ngovuyo ayicaphukisi nakuphi na ukubuyela umva kohambo lwesikolo. Enye yeefriji inengqokelela yangaphambi kweSpanishi, edityaniswe ngononophelo ngu-Olga Costa noJosé Chávez Morado. Nditsho neziko lolondolozo lwembali, iAlhóndiga de Granaditas, isakhiwo esikhulu samatye eNeoclassical esakhiwa njengegranary, sisikhumbuzo sembali enzima yaseMexico. Ubawo Hidalgo kunye neenkokheli zakhe zokuvukela uIgnacio Allende, uJuan Aldama, kunye noMariano Jimenez babulawa apha ziiroyalists zaseSpain; iintloko zabo ezinqunyulwe intloko zaxhonywa kwiikhetshi ezingaphandle kweAlhóndiga kangangeminyaka eli-10.

Ubutyebi bembali yaseGuanajuato kunye ne-apos bubonakala ngaphakathi kwiicawa zayo zeBaroque: iindawo zabo zangaphakathi ezonwabileyo zihonjiswe ngeekhandlela ezininzi, ukuhonjiswa kwesilivere esulungekileyo, kunye nentaphane yamagqabi egolide. I-Teatro Juárez, eyasungulwa ngo-1907 ngu-Mongameli Porfirio Díaz (inkokheli yobuzwilakhe eyayithanda zonke izinto zase-France), ineempawu ze-red velvet, i-poufs ezityebileyo, kunye nokuhombisa okuninzi. Yonke indawo ipatheni, kwaye isiphumo sayo sonke kufana nokubanjwa ngaphakathi kwesisindo sephepha elingu-millefiori.

I-Francophilia yelo xesha-ngokuhlekisayo isishwankathelwa ngokungathandani ngurhulumente ngu-José Clemente Orozco ('sinezakhiwo zethu, asizidingi ii-châteaux') - iyaqhubeka nokucokiswa ngakumbi emaphethelweni edolophu, apho izitrato ziphangalele khona. ngomnga. Uninzi lwezindawo zenkulungwane ye-19 zazakhiwe njengeendawo zokuhlala zasehlotyeni; ngeefestile zabo ezivaliweyo zaseFrance, amagumbi aneleyo anemigangatho yeparque, kunye noohlohlesakhe abangaguqukiyo, ngebabeyinyuse ngokulula iRhône nangaphesheya kweAtlantic.

Enye yezi zindlu yiQuinta Las Acacias, apho sihlala khona. Eyakhelwe ngo-1890 ngu-Alberto Malo, injineli yeTeatro Juárez, iQuinta ineebhalkhoni ezili-14 kunye namathambeka enduli ajonge esixekweni. Isidlo sakusasa saseMexico-isitayile sepapaya ebengezelayo eqaqambe ngee-wedges zekalika, iijusi ezisandula ukufakwa, iipleyiti ezinqatyisiweyo chilaquiles (i-casserole yesosi eluhlaza ye-chile, imitya ye-tortilla, ukhilimu omuncu, kwaye ihlala inkukhu okanye inyama yehagu, ebizwa ngokuba yi-'sombrero endala ') -ngaphandle kokukhetha. Sisoloko sinikwa amaqanda alungiselelwe ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo, kubandakanya iipokotho , eliguqulelwa kwimenyu 'njengerhaxwayo.' Ukufunda oku, uTom uthi, ngenkxalabo yaseScotland, 'Izinto ezihluphekileyo.' Ntsasa nganye, siziva sikhathalelwe kakhulu.

ICuernavaca

ICuernavaca, kunye nemozulu yayo ephantse yangena gadesi, kunye negadi entle, kudala ikukuhlala kwabantu abahlala ezixekweni. Ngo-1526, umoyisi waseSpeyin uHernán Cortés wazakhela ibhotwe eloyikekayo, iPalacio deCortés, ngqo phezu kwetempile esele ikho eAztec, kwinduli esembindini wedolophu ngoku.

Sifika eCuernavaca ngorhatya; inyanga epheleleyo iyadada esibhakabhakeni esicacileyo senceba. KwiCasa Colonial, silandela umntu owamkela iindwendwe ehotele — indoda eyayisiza ngoncedo neqondayo egama linguNestro — ukunyuka izinyuko, ungene kwi-loggia, nokunyuka ngezinyuko ezimxinwa ukuya kwigumbi elikhulu, elifihlakeleyo elidibanisa uphahla. UNestro uvula ucango lwangasese. 'Nasi esinye isitiya sakho,' uxela ngaphambi kokuba ajike ahambe. Kwigumbi lokuhlambela elinomkhenkce omkhulu, amasundu amancinci kunye nemidiliya yeentyatyambo ikhula ngokuchasene nodonga olukhazimlayo lweetayile zobugcisa.

Izitrato zaseCuernavaca zinyoka ziphuma kwi-zócalo, iplaza esembindini egcwele abantu abahambahamba ezidolophini kunye nabathengisi beendlela. Indawo ephambili ye-zócalo yibhendi yentsimbi yenkulungwane ye-19, ekucingelwa ukuba yenzelwe nguGustave Eiffel, ofana nesibane esikhulu seVictoria. IKrisimesi, ewe, ikwindawo yonke: umthi omde uhonjiswe ngeemallion ezinkulu ezihonjiswe nge-logo yeCoca-Cola, kunye neMylar piñatas, ezona nkwenkwezi zintandathu zingqindilili, zixhonywe phakathi kwezibane zesitalato. Kuyo yonke idolophu, iibhalkhoni zentsimbi zijikelezwe ziimbiza ezibomvu iintyatyambo Ngaphimbi kwekhisimusi, iimfanelo zakho zangaphambi kweKrisimesi; Intyatyambo yemveli, esi sityalo saziswa e-United States ngo-1825 ngummeli wokuqala waseMelika eMexico, u-Joel Roberts Poinsett, kunye nohlaziyo oluhlaziyiweyo mzantsiweb .

IPalacio de Cortés ngoku igcina iMuseo yeNgingqi yeCuauhnáhuac, iCuernavaca kunye nemyuziyam. Ingqokelela yayo ebanzi iquka ukufunyanwa kwezinto zakudala; Iingxelo zokuzibonela (ekuveliseni kwakhona) kwentlanganiso phakathi kweMontezuma, umlawuli waseAztec, kunye naboyisi; kunye nomzobo womzobo ngu-Diego Rivera orekhoda isixeko kunye nembali ye-apos. URivera ubonakalisile, kwisimbo sakhe sokutyikitya ngokuzithandela, umzobo wenkulungwane ye-19 wenkunkuma wajika waba ngumfundisi uJosé María Morelos, iqhawe leMfazwe yenkululeko. I-Rivera & apos; s Morelos -yomntu oqinileyo onamehlo anzulu, afihliweyo kunye nesilevu esintlu-mbini esineempawu ezifanayo nezomzobi ngokwakhe.

Ngaphakathi kwesixeko kunye ne-apos; s sithintelwe, i-Catedral de la Asunción de María, yagqitywa ngo-1552, umzobo obuthathaka obalisa ukubethelelwa kwesanta sase-Mexico senkulungwane ye-16 uFelipe de Jesús, eJapan. Ezotywe kunye nabafeli-nkolo abangama-26, iSan Felipe ibonakala kwelinye icala, ilitye elirhabaxa, eliqhekekileyo elihamba kulwandle lomdaka. Sizulazula ngeJardín Borda, ngenkulungwane ye-18 iigadi ezijingxileyo ngoku ezigcweleyo kwaye zinobundlobongela obungenabuntu kunye noburharha obuhendayo. Kwimyuziyam apha kuxhonywe umzobo we-Emperor Maximilian kunye nesithandwa sakhe, igadi kunye nenkosikazi ye-apos, La India Bonita. YayinguMaximilian owayeqaphela ukuba imozulu yaseMexico inyanzelisa ukuba kungenwe rhoqo 'ngeetoniki': suku ngalunye wayedla iiglasi ezingama-20 ze-champagne.

Ngobunye ubusuku, satya isidlo sangokuhlwa eGaia, indawo yokutyela yaseNuevo yaseMexico kwindlu yobukoloniyali eyayisakuba likhaya likaMario Moreno, inkwenkwezi yefilimu ehlekisayo eyaziwa ngokuba yiCantinflas. I-Gaia yenzelwe ubuhle obuncinci be-aesthetic: izithuba eziphakamileyo eziphakamileyo zihamba ziye kwenye; Iindawo zokutyela zineendonga ezimhlophe mhlophe kwaye ukukhanya kwamakhandlela kubengezela. Embindini wegadi, ichibi lokudada elikhanyayo likhanya ngokurhwebeshela ebumnyameni. Ngaphantsi kwamanzi kukho umzobo we-tiles kaGaia, uthixokazi wamandulo wenzala, owenziwe ngu-Diego Rivera. Sisela tamarind kwaye guana (soursop) imargaritas, imitshato ephefumlelweyo yeziqhamo zeetart kunye nomsi waphumla itequila.

Ngentsasa elandelayo, sithatha iteksi esiya kwisitudiyo sokugqibela kugqirha wezakhiwo uDavid Alfaro Siqueiros. Isithuba esingalawulekiyo kwimizi-mveliso yasedolophini, isitudiyo saseSiqueiros & apos sihleli singachaphazeleki ukusukela oko wasweleka ngo-1974: iscaffold simiselwe kwiprojekthi engagqitywanga eseludongeni; Iigaloni zepeyinti, uphawu lwayo lweakriliki, zigcinwa kumanqwanqwa. Sindwendwe kuphela. Kwindlu yegcisa kunye neye-apos, umfazi usibonisa idesika apho inkosikazi kaSiqueiros kunye ne-apos; bambhalela iileta ngexesha lokuvalelwa kwakhe njengeceba lokuzama ukubulala uLeon Trotsky.

Oaxaca

Kudala isekwe njengedolophu edumileyo yentengiso, i-Oaxaca ibisoloko itsala iindwendwe zangaphandle kunye neMexico kunye ne-apos. Kwiindawo zentengiso, iMixtec kunye neZapotec ziviwa kunye neSpanish. Sihlala eCasa Oaxaca, indlu yobukoloniyali enikwe ukhuseleko kunye nokugcwala okungaphumeleliyo. Ukuhlala umva kwisitalato, ihotele & apos; inkundla yokuqala evaliweyo yindawo yokutyela entle ebekwe esweni ngumpheki omkhulu uAlejandro Ruiz Olmedo. Ukusebenza kwisithethe se-Oaxacan cuisine-usebenzisa izithako zalapha ekhaya kunye neesosi ezintsonkothileyo kodwa zenziwe ngocoselelo-uRuiz Olmedo wenza izitya ezinamandla kodwa ezisulungekileyo: izilayi ze-jicama ezijikelezwe ngeplastikhi ye-eggplant ene-flavored subtly, ice cream emnandi egalelwe iiamangile kunye neentyatyambo.

I-Oaxaca & apos; iimarike ezigqunyiweyo- uBenito Juárez, wama-20 kuNovemba, kunye no-Abastos-bathengisa yonke into ukusuka kwiikawusi zetyhubhu ukuya kuSuku lwee-diorama ezifileyo. NgeMigqibelo, imakethi ye-Abastos isouk yeendlela ezingapheliyo kunye neetafile. Kwimiphetho yayo, iitafile zisetwa nge-pirated DVD & apos; s kunye nee-T-shirt ezihlolwe isilika; nzulu ngaphakathi kwintente enentente, abafazi bayatyibilika ngokuthwala iibhasikiti ezithe tyaba zeentyatyambo entloko, ii-limes zifakwe phezulu kwiipiramidi eziyingozi, ii-brace zeeturkey eziphilileyo iinyawo zazo zibotshelelwe kunye zisonta emhlabeni. Iirugs kunye neebhegi zibotshelelwe ngaphezulu. Umthungi oselula — uGaspar Chavez, osebenza notata wakhe, uRaul — ufunda incwadi ethetha ngedayi yemveli. Njengokuba ethetha ngalo mbandela, siqaphela ukuba izandla zakhe zikrwada kwaye zinamabala okusila i-cochineal, umbala obomvu oveliswe kwizinambuzane eziyinzalelwane yemveli eyayiyenye yezo zithunyelwa ngaphandle eMexico.

Kwi-Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, eyayisakuba yindlu yoonongendi, isixeko kunye nembali ebanzi iboniswa kwindawo enkulu: isakhiwo senkulumbuso senkulungwane ye-16 esineepaseji ezigudileyo, iifestile ezixhonyiweyo, kunye nezitepsi ezintle. Kwenye yemyuziyam kunye neegalari zeapos, kukho ubuncwane obembiwe engcwabeni lesi-7 eMonte Albán — isixeko samandulo esimazantsi-ntshona eOaxaca esasihlala abantu kwiinkulungwane ezili-14. Kwiivitriti ezibonakala ngamatye amdaka, izinto eziqingqwe kakuhle — ezenziwe ngamajaguar namathambo okhozi, amatye anqabileyo negolide — zifana namatye anqabileyo nezoyikekayo, nto leyo ethetha ngamasiko egazi.

Emuva eCasa Oaxaca yeyesibini, inkundla ekhuselekileyo, enephuli yokudada enethayile yokubumba kunye nesakhiwo esincinci sodongwe ekuthiwa temazcal, indawo yokulala ebilayo. Kusuku olungaphambi kokuba sibuyele eLos Angeles, mna noTom senza idinga lokunyanga ngokwesintu. UDon Ignacio, i-shaman eneenwele zesilivere, ufika enamaqhuqhuva kunye namayeza kwaye uqala ukusebenza elungisa isitovu eshushu. NgeSpanish esilula kakhulu, usikhokelela kumjikelo weengoma ezihambelana nesisu. Sinyathela ngaphakathi kwi-oveni temazcal, ungqishe umhlaba, kwaye ukhuphe izandi esingaziqondiyo. Ngaphandle, iingoma ze-shaman kunye neengqungquthela; Ngamaxesha athile, uvula ifestile eqhekezwe-ngathi ngumfundisi & apos; kwindawo yokuvuma izono-kwaye asijonge. Usibiza ukuba siziphose kwindawo yokubhukuda ebandayo, emva koko usithumele kubushushu kwakhona. Emva koko uthi nkxu inqwaba yeentyatyambo kunye namayeza emanzini aze awashukumise entloko. Izikhukula livumba lokupholisa, sixhuma kwakhona singena echibini kwakhona. I-shaman ithetha nathi kancinci nangokuzolileyo njengoko solula kwizitulo zengca, sisongelwe iitawuli. Kufuneka siliyeke elidlulileyo kwaye siphile ngoku, siyaqonda. Amagqabi kaDon Ignacio kwaye silele sipile, siphulukene nexesha, sikhangele esibhakabhakeni esiqaqambileyo.

Imozulu Imozulu epholileyo yeentaba eziphakathi-kwindawo ephakame kangange-7,000 yeenyawo-ikwindawo entle ukusuka kuDisemba ukuya ku-Epreli: libalele kwaye lomile, ngamaqondo obushushu aphakathi ama-70 degrees. ukufika apho I-American, iAeromexico, iUnited kunye neAlaska Airlines zonke zinikela ngeenqwelomoya ngokuthe ngqo ukusuka eLos Angeles ukuya eMexico City kunye neapos eBenito Juárez. Zonke iidolophu ezixoxwe ngazo, ngaphandle kwe-Oaxaca, zingaphantsi kweekhilomitha ezingama-250 ukusuka eMexico City. I-Oaxaca inokufikelelwa ngeenqwelomoya eziya rhoqo kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya iOaxaca Xoxocotlán, iikhilomitha ezili-15 ukusuka embindini wedolophu. Ukhenketho Xa uqhuba ngokwakho eMexico kufuneka uqatshelwe ngononophelo. Uhambo lweLatin (866 / 626-3750; www.lolayinline.cokm ) isebenza nenkampani yasekhaya ukucwangcisa uhambo olwenziwe (imoto kunye nomqhubi zibandakanyiwe).

WAHLALA PHI

UMesón SacristÍa weNkampani
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 140
EMzantsi 304 Callejón de los Sapos, Puebla; 877 / 278-8018
www.mexicoboutiquehotels.com/mesonsacristia/

Indlu kaMatshi
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 125
41 uMadero, Querétaro; 52-442 / 212-0092
www.lacasadelamarquesa.com

IiJuanino
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 146
I-39 Morelos Sur, Col. Centro, Morelia; 52-443 / 312-0036
www.hoteludwin.com.mx

Ihotele iVirrey de Mendoza
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi-155 yeedola
310 Avda. Madero, Pte.Iziko leMbali, Morelia; 52-443 / 312-0633
www.yintunifb.com

Quinta Las Acacias
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 185
168 uPaseo de la Presa, eGuanajuato; 888 / 497-4129 OKANYE 52-473 / 731-1517
www.quintalasacacias.com Indlu yamathanga
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 140
37 Netzahualcoyotl, Col. Centro, Cuernavaca; 52-777 / 312-7033
www.ecuitaliconline.com

I-Las Mañanitas
Ihotele yakudala enegadi entle kunye neepikoko.
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 238
107 uRicardo Linares, uCol. Centro, Cuernavaca; 888 / 413-9199 OKANYE 52-777 / 362-0000
www.lasmananitas.com.mx

Indlu yaseOaxaca
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 100
407 García Vigil, Oaxaca; 52-951 / 514-4173
www.casa-oaxaca.com

KUPHI EMAKUTYWE khona

Indlu yePortal
Ukutya okumveli kweMichoacán- kubandakanya isuphu yomeleza yaseTarascan.
Isidlo sangokuhlwa iidola ezingama-40
30 uGuillermo Prieto, Morelia; 52-443 / 313-4899

Irestyu yaseGaia
Isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini
3102 Blvd. Benito Juárez, Col. Centro, Cuernavaca; 52-777 / 312-3656

Indlu kaHidalgo
Indawo yokutyela esembindini wesixeko, kunye nomhlaba wonke.
Isidlo sangokuhlwa ezimbini zeedola
6 UJardín de Los Niños HÉroes, Col. centro, Cuernavaca 52-777 / 312-2749

Umthi weorenji
Umpheki osaziwayo kunye nomnini uIliana de la Vega benza imole eyahlukileyo kusuku ngalunye lweveki.
Ukutya kwesibini ngeedola ezingama-45
203 iTrujano, iOaxaca; 52-951 / 514-1878

KWENZIWE NTONI

Imyuziyam entle
I-440 Avda. Madero, pte.
Iziko leMbali, Morelia; 52-443 / 312-8157

Indlu kaGeorge Rivera kunye neMyuziyam
IiPocitos ezingama-47, eGuanajuato; 52-473 / 732-1197

IAlhondiga de Granaditas
Mendizabal, Guanajuato

Isifundo seNdlu yoLondolozo lweMbali yaseLa Tallera kaDavid Alfaro Siqueiros
Venus, Col. Jardines de Cuernavaca; 52-777 / 315-1115

IMyuziyam yeNgingqi yaseCuauhnáhuac
100 Leyba, Cuernavaca; 52-777 / 312-8171

IMyuziyam yeeNkcubeko zaseOaxaca
IMacedonia Alcala, iOaxaca; 52-951 / 516-9741

IMyuziyam yeeNkcubeko zaseOaxaca

Isakhiwo sangaphambili se-monestary- inkulungwane ye-16 yesakhiwo sekholoniyali kunye neepaseji ezixhonyiweyo, iifestile ezixhonyiweyo, kunye nezitepsi ezintle-zinezindlu ezininzi zengqokelela yenkcubeko kunye nobuncwane bezinto zakudala ezivela kwixesha langaphambi kweSpanishi ukuza kuthi ga ngoku.

IMyuziyam yeNgingqi yaseCuauhnáhuac

Isifundo seNdlu yoLondolozo lweMbali yaseLa Tallera kaDavid Alfaro Siqueiros

Indlu kaGeorge Rivera kunye neMyuziyam

Imyuziyam entle

Umthi weorenji

Indlu kaHidalgo

Irestyu yaseGaia

Indlu yePortal

Indlu yamathanga

Ihotele iVirrey de Mendoza

Ihotele eLos Juaninos

Indlu kaMatshi

UMesón Sacristía de la Compañía

Quinta Las Acacias

Ihotele iCasa Oaxaca

Ihotele engenamathambo isebenza ukutya kunye nokusela okulula.

Ihotele iLas Mañanitas, irestyu, igadi kunye ne-Spa

Ihotele yamaKoloniyali ineehektare ezintathu zegadi kunye nengqokelela yobugcisa ebandakanya imisebenzi kaJosé Luis Cuevas.

Igumbi leNcwadi: Amagumbi egadi aneendawo zokucima umlilo kunye neethala ezigutyungelweyo ezijonga indawo enamanzi kunye nedama.

Ukuphindwe kabini kwi- $ 224, kubandakanya isidlo sakusasa