Singaqala ngokubiza le nto iyiyo: uhlobo lwencwadi yothando. Ngokuqinisekileyo ayisiyiyo eyokuqala ebhalwe eFlorence, edumileyo enye yeedolophu ezikhuthaza uthando. (Ukuze ufumane iipaean ezingaphezulu, nceda ubone uForster, uStendhal, uLawrence, uShelley. D , yeDante.) I-CV kaFlorence phantse ayinakuthelekiswa nanto phakathi kwendawo: yindawo yokuzalwa yemibongo yanamhlanje kunye neebhanki zabarhwebi, indawo yesabelo esomeleleyo sezona zakhiwo zibalulekileyo zokwakha kunye nezobugcisa zamaxesha asemva kwexesha. Kwezi zakutshanje, ibilikhaya lethutyana kwisabelo esomeleleyo ngokulinganayo sabafundi beekholeji zaseMelika, abathi beze kuzntywilisela, kwaye mhlawumbi batshintshwe ngokungenakuguqulwa, ziziphiwo zenkcubeko zase-Italiya kunye nobuhle obuxhomis 'intliziyo. Ndingomnye wabo; mhlawumbi ubunjalo, nawe. Kodwa nokuba uqala ukuyibona nge-18 okanye i-68, iFlorence ithanda ukuziprinta kuwe kuthotho lweemnemon ezibonakalayo: indawo yokuhlala, igophe eliqaqambileyo leDuomo; ubulungisa besynlvan bukaBotticelli Ntlakohlaza ; ii-cypresses ezinje nge-inki emnyama ebrashiweyo ezindulini ezikufutshane neSan Miniato-izinto ezizezinye, ngokuchaza uWalt Whitman (ngelishwa lakhe, akazange abeke amehlo kwesi sixeko), aqukethe izihlwele ezininzi.

Ngokuqinisekileyo uyathandeka. Kodwa ngaba iyaphila? Okanye, ngokuchanekileyo: ukuhlala? Awu, le yintetho entsonkothe ​​ngakumbi. UMilan uphantse wachazwa ngumzi mveliso wefashoni ongapheliyo. IRoma igcinwa ngoku ngokugcina, emva kweminyaka engamawaka amabini, isikhundla sayo njengesihlalo sezopolitiko. Nkqu nokuqaqamba kwesifo iVenice iye yenza iyelenqe lokujolisa ingqalelo yenkulungwane yama-21 enkulu kwaye elungile ngokwayo kwiinyanga ezimbalwa ngonyaka, ngeewele ezimbini zeBiennales zobugcisa kunye nezokwakha kunye nomnyhadala wefilimu.

Kodwa ngokhenketho oluninzi ngokubanzi lwenza umonakalo ongaphezulu kunenkonzo kuzo zombini izibonelelo kunye nodumo, kwaye abemi baziva bengavunyelwanga sisixeko ababona ukuba silawulwa ngakumbi kwizibonelelo zeendwendwe kunesabo, uFlorence ubeke umngcipheko wokuba ngumthinjwa wayo I-patrimony-ilitye lesikhumbuzo elitywinwe ngophawu lomlinganiso, kunye nezikhumbuzo zalo ezininzi. KwiSixeko soBugcisa , ewe -kunye nokunye okuninzi.

Utshintsho lusemoyeni apha, nangona. Emva kokufikelela kubumbano lwe yondla (bayondliwa), abemi abaphuma kwibala elibukhali bavusa amandla eFlorence engaphezulu nje kokudityaniswa kwamalungu ayo amahle. Bavela kumacandelo abucala nawoluntu: abasebenzi bakarhulumente, oosomashishini, kunye namalungu eentsapho ezisekayo, kunye namagcisa, iihotele, kunye nabagcini. Zonke zinenxaxheba ekuhambiseni isixeko phambili sihamba nentlalontle, ezentlalo, ezentengiso, kunye nenkcubeko, ngeenjongo zokunceda uFlorence abuye isihloko sehabhu yangoku, kwiinkulungwane ezintandathu emva kokubanjwa okokuqala.

Oyena uphambili kwezi arhente zotshintsho nguMatteo Renzi, usodolophu waseFlorence oneminyaka engama-36 ubudala, owangena e-ofisini ngonyaka wama-2009. Kunzima ukucinga ngomnye umpolitiki wase-Yuropu okonwabela ukwamkelwa ngokufanayo kuluntu oluninzi kunye nolwabathandi. (Inzondelelo athe wakhangela ngayo igama lakhe kuzo zombini iindawo zokusebenzela ezikwiPazza Savonarola kunye neetafile zesidlo sangokuhlwa ezonganyelwe zii-scions ezinama-900 eminyaka ubudala zikhumbula i-cachet enothuli u-Obama anayo kwi-Ewe Sinako iintsuku.) Ndilele kancinci kumandla ethu, utshilo uRenzi xa sidibana ngenye imva kwemini ngasekupheleni kuka-Epreli kwiofisi yakhe entle yomfanekiso osePalazzo Vecchio. Kwaye nakwesinye isidingo esibalulekileyo: awunakho ukuququzelela isixeko esifana nemyuziyam. Kufuneka senze onke amathuba okuba abemi bazibandakanye kwaye bazingce ngo [Florence,]. Ngokubhekisele kubakhenkethi, kuya kufuneka ubanike ngakumbi, kwaye ngcono, izizathu zokubuya.

Isicwangciso sikaRenzi esibanzi sokuphucula sibonisa ukuzibophelela kwakhe kuwo omabini la maqela. Ngonyani: nge-Tornabuoni kunye ne-Santo Spirito kunye nePitti piazzas baba ziindawo zabahambi ngeenyawo ngoJuni, bedala imithambo yokuzola kwamanye amacandelo esixeko axineneyo. Izigidi zeerandi zabelwe ukuvuselelwa komlambo iArno kwaye, kunyaka olandelayo, kwizitiya zeCascine ezikumda osentshona wesixeko. Iinkqubo kunye neeyure zoLondolozo lweMbali ziyahlaziywa, amanye amaziko enikezela ukwamkelwa simahla kwiintsuku ezikhethiweyo kubahlali kwaye uninzi luhlala luvulekile kude kube li-11. kanye ngenyanga. Oku kuqale ngentwasahlobo ephelileyo ePalazzo Vecchio, ngokujikeleza ebusuku kwiindonga zayo, ezaziwa njenge Indawo yokujikeleza , Ukubetha kwangoko (enye, amanqaku eRenzi, izuze isixeko phantse i-17,000 yeedola kwiintsuku ezintathu ngaphambi kwentlanganiso yethu yodwa). Kwaye emva kokulibaziseka phantse kweminyaka engama-20, iKhadi leFirenze lasungulwa ngoMatshi; ibiza i-70 yeedola, isemthethweni kangangeentsuku ezintathu, kwaye igubungela ama-33 olondolozo lwembali olubalulekileyo lwesi sixeko. (Ekupheleni kwale nyanga, uGucci uza kongeza enye kuluhlu lwesixeko xa isungula imyuziyam ebhiyozela imbali yohlobo lwayo oludumileyo, ePiazza della Signoria.)

Kukwakho noLe Murate, owayesakuba ngumzi woonongendi ngenkulungwane ye-15 kwiVia Ghibellina, ethi ngezibonelelo zikarhulumente iphinde yavula njengendawo yobugcisa equka iigalari, ikhefi kunye neeofisi zolawulo. Ingqondo ye-alderman yedolophu yenkcubeko uGiuliano da Empoli, iindawo zikawonke-wonke zikaLe Murate zihamba ngegama elithi SUC, Izithuba zeDolophu zangoku ; umbono kukuba isebenze njengesiqhelo sentlalo yamagcisa asakhasayo kunye nabo banomdla kubo-e-Italiya nakwamanye amazwe, kwalapha ekhaya nakubakhenkethi ngokufanayo.

Kude kude nePalazzo Vecchio kunye neenkonzo ezisemthethweni zabasebenzi bakarhulumente, abanini beehotele kunye nabashenxisi bezothutho baye bacofa amandla esixeko. Nangona uninzi luneengcambu ezingqongqo zalapha, ukuvulwa okuphawuleka liqela lasehotele laseMelika yeyona voti inkulu yokuzithemba. I-Regis Florence iqale ukubonakala ngoMeyi kwisiza seGrand Hotel Firenze yakudala, ePiazza d'Ognissanti. Amanye amagumbi ayo ali-100 kunye nama-suites abhabha (ngendlela enencasa ngokugqibeleleyo) iflegi ephefumlelweyo kaMedici yeesilika ezintle kunye neevelvet kwimpahla yasebukhosini yeecawa; ezinye zinikezelwa kwiphalethi entle ethulweyo. ISt. Regis luphawu lwehotele kuluhlu, kwaye iqhinga elininzi liya kukhetho lweendawo zalo. Ukufika kwayo apha, ngoku, sisiphumo esithe ngqo sento yobhedu yaseSt. Regis eneneni ibiza iRenaissance yesibini kaFlorence.

E-Il Salviatino, phezulu nje endulini usiya eFiesole, imodeli yokwamkela iindwendwe iguqulwe ngokucocekileyo entlokweni yayo ngabasebenzi beeNkonzo zoonozakuzaku — umqhubi, umngcamli, umncedisi, isikhokelo, kunye nomnxibelelanisi we concierge eqengqele kumntu omnye, onxibe ngokwendalo. Baye badibana nohlolo oluxubekileyo, njengoko kunjalo nokuhonjiswa okungahambi kakuhle kwehotele: ngamanye amaxesha inencasa entle (njengakumphakamo omhle ophindwe kabini, ilayibrari eyenziwe ngamaplanga), kwezinye izinto ezingaphantsi (ukuxhoma imveliso yakudala evela kumakhonkco esinyithi, ngokufana ukuya eluphahleni kwindawo yokutyela, akunakuchazwa). Ndiyabulela ukulunga ithambeka, kunye neesofa zalo ezimhlophe kunye neembono zegadi ze-villa, kuyonwabisa.

Ukubuyela edolophini, ngaphandle kwePiazza della Repubblica, lilitye elinqabileyo, iPalazzo Vecchietti: indawo yokuhlala engaphezulu kunehotele, eyenzelwe iiklasi zoyilo ezifuna indawo yokusebenza ephantsi kunye nemfihlo. Akukho lounge okanye ibhari, kodwa onke amagumbi aneekhitshi eligcweleyo kunye neendawo zokusebenza nezokuhlala; kwaye zonke zizinto zala maxesha — umsebenzi wezandla wengcibi yokuyila uMichele Bonan, obonisa ngobukrwada ubukrelekrele bakhe.

I-Bonan iyile ne-J. Place Firenze, ihotele e-boutique ese-Piazza di Santa Maria Novella ethi, emva kweminyaka esibhozo, iqhubeke nokuvela. I-cocreator yayo, u-Ori Kafri, ngusomashishini obukhali oneminyaka engama-34 ngezandla zakhe, phakathi kwezinye izinto, epapasha kunye neegalari zobugcisa. Umphathi jikelele odityaniswe kakuhle kaJ. K., uClaudio Meli, wasungula inkonzo yeBravo Concierge kwi2007 ukuze akwazi ukuhlawulisa ixesha labathengi e-Itali ngaphaya kokuhlala kwabo kweJ. Ngalo naluphi na urhatya umntu unokufumana indawo encinci yobugcisa besixeko, imfashini, imithombo yeendaba, kunye nehlabathi lamashishini ahamba egumbini lokuhlala ehotele nakwindawo yokutyela; ngeeCawa ngexesha lesidlo sasemini, ithala liyanda kunye nabahlobo kunye neentsapho. Nge-alchemy yayo yokukhululeka kunye nesitayile, ububodwa kunye nokuvuleleka, ihotele iye yaba liziko laseFlorence-eli lisasazekayo, kunye nenqanawa eCapri, ukuvulwa okucwangcisiweyo e-Roma ngasekupheleni kuka-2012, kunye neminqweno yokwazisa iiprojekthi ngaphandle kwe-Italiya eLondon, Isixeko saseNew York, kunye neTel Aviv (indawo yokuzalwa kamama notata kaKafri).

IO Osteria Personale, kwi-Borgo San Frediano, ngokuchaseneyo, ivulwe kwiinyanga nje ezidlulileyo, kodwa sele inovakalelo lweziko ekwenzeni. Umnini Matteo Fantini wafunda kwaye wenza amayeza emfuyo, kodwa waphupha iminyaka eqala irestyu. UDisemba ophelileyo, ebhalisa umpheki oneminyaka engama-23 ubudala uNicolò Baretti, wenza kanye loo nto. IO iququzelela imenyu yayo ngesithako sokuqala (inyama, intlanzi, imifuno) kunokuba kunjalo. UFantini, oxoxa ngovuyo nezidlo sangokuhlwa kangangesiqingatha seyure ngexesha, uzobe ngengqondo ubugcisa obungenabuchule ukumiliselwa kweesitya zemihla ngemihla kwiibhodi ezingaphezulu kwezicwangciso zetheyibhile ezintle. Umboniso we-facile ungqubana ne-winking ngokuchasene nobunkunkqele bokutya: ihobe elipheleleyo elihonjiswe ngesidlele sehagu esitshayiweyo; Isaladi yokutya kwaselwandle efudumeleyo ethambileyo ifakiwe kunye nokugaya panzanella kunye ne-asparagus gelato.

Malunga neekhilomitha ezantsi emlanjeni eSan Niccolli kukho isilili yangaphambi kwesitolo ephawulwe i-ZEB, ngaphandle kwayo umgca wenza iintsuku ezininzi malunga nobusuku. Ngaphakathi, uGiuseppina noAlberto Navari, umama nonyana, balungisa izitya zokugqibelela okulula ngendlela ebebeyilungiselele ngayo iminyaka elikhulu. Yindawo ngokwayo-emhlophe, eyilelwe ngokucacileyo, iinxalenye ezilinganayo ze-chic diner kunye ne-forium yokutya yasezidolophini-ezo zothusayo, ngenxa yokuba oku kutya kuhlala kudityaniswa neeshelfu ezenziwe ngomthi, iiflask ezinothuli zeChianti, kunye neetafile ezirhabaxa. Endaweni yokuba abathengi bathenge isitulo se-chrome-and-kidskin kwaye bakhombe kwinto abayifunayo emva kwekhawuntari yeglasi nentsimbi; kwaye ngelixa u-Alberto ethulula into entle evela eBolgheri okanye eMontecucco, eGiuseppina, ngoncumo olumnandi njengentsikelelo, uyasebenza iibhola zenyama , isibane , kunye iartichokes .

Hayi ukuba akukho gumbi kule nguqulelo ngokwesiko lolona hlobo lusisiseko, iproto-Florentine. Ezinye zeentsapho ezindala zokwenza iwayini zedolophu- iFrescobaldis kunye neAntinoris, iMazzeis kunye neRicasolis, iCorsinis kunye neIncisa della Rocchettas-basebenzisana nee-IMG Artists kulo nyaka uphelileyo ukumilisela iDivino Tuscany, umnyhadala wonyaka wewayini. Umnyhadala weentsuku ezine ubone iindwendwe ezivela kumazwe ali-17 zisampula iivintage ezixabisekileyo ezisuka kubalimi abaphezulu bommandla abangama-50. Kwakukho iikonsathi zabucala, ukhenketho, kunye nezidlo zodidi kumabhotwe osapho ajikeleze isixeko. Kwimpelaveki kuye kwafikelelwa kumthendeleko obubanjwe ngu Sting no Trudie Styler eIl Palagio, indawo yabo e Figline Valdarno, imizuzu engama-45 ngaphandle kwesixeko — itikiti elishushu laye lazimasa (kwaye, kumatyala ambalwa ahlekisayo, aphazanyiswa) ngumboniso omhle weFlorentine uluntu.

Kodwa ukuba ubunokukhangela abahlali kuyo nayiphi na kwezi zicwangciso malunga nokubonakaliswa okuphumeleleyo kweFlorence eNtsha, abaninzi banokukukhomba kwicala leFondazione Palazzo Strozzi. Idalwe kwi-2006, i-FPS ineminyaka emihlanu ibambe i-clutch yemiboniso efumene indumiso yamanye amazwe; ukuwa kokugqibela kukaBronzino obuyela umva-obona banzi ukuza kuthi ga ngoku bomsebenzi womzobi we-Mannerist-wafumana ubukho obungazange babonwa ngaphambili kunye nezicelo ezivela kwiimyuziyam ezinkulu zaseMelika naseYurophu zokuyisingatha. Apha, kwintendelezo yekhefi yekomkhulu leshumi elinesihlanu le-Strozzi yasebukhosini eyakha isiseko, kungenzeka ukuba ufumane uJames Bradburne, umfo omde we-FSP, oyindinisa, obambe iintlanganiso zase-Anglo-Canada, ephethe intlanganiso ye-impromptu kwi-Italiya eyiyo- Umxube wesiNgesi okanye ujonge nje ukuhla nokuhamba kweendwendwe nangona iingcango eziphindwe kabini ziphindwe kabini. Le ndawo yayihlala ivaliwe eluntwini xa kungekho mboniso; kwakungekho zityalo, kungekho café, kungekho venkile, amanqaku kaBradburne. Ngoku ivulekile ngalo lonke ixesha, kwaye sisakhiwo esiphilayo. Ifumana iindwendwe ezingama-25,000 ngeveki. Kwaye asijolisanga nakubakhenkethi.

I-FPS luvavanyo lwase-Italiya kulawulo lweziko. Ibhodi yabalawuli imele amacandelo karhulumente nawabucala; phakathi kwazo kukho iimyuziyam zaseFlorence intsumpa uCristina Acidini kunye nehotele iRocco Forte. Sinenkululeko enkulu, utshilo uBradburne. Ibhodi ithande ukuthi 'ewe' kunokuba ithi 'hayi.' Kukho inqanaba lokungafihlisi kunye nokukhawuleza oko-uyancuma-hayi ngesiTaliyane. Uthi wanikwa imiyalelo emibini ecacileyo. Inye: Zisa imiboniso yamazwe aphesheya eFlorence. Njengoko kwenzeka, asizisi apha, thina ivelisa apha. Zimbini: Nika ipalazzo ibuyele kwiiFlorentines.

Kwakudingeka umntu oqaqambileyo njengoJames ukuba kwenzeke, utshilo uLeonardo Ferragamo ngenye intsasa kwikomkhulu laseFerragamo, ePalazzo Spini-Feroni. Ngaphandle kokubamba izikhundla ezahlukeneyo ngaphakathi kwenkampani yosapho kunye nokuchophela i-Lungarno Hotel, uFerragamo ngumongameli we-Associazione Partners Palazzo Strozzi, enye yeenkampani ezisekela i-FPS-kwaye, ngenxa yoko, omnye wabaphathi bakaBradburne. Oku kwaqala kwiminyaka emihlanu eyadlulayo ngenxa yokudana uFlorence engenzi konke okusemandleni malunga nokulawula iiasethi zakhe, utshilo. Ikhuphe ikratshi labathile phakathi kwethu, ngokwaneleyo kangangokuba ekugqibeleni senze.

I-FPS ikwalikhaya kwiCentro di Cultura Contemporanea Strozzina. Ukuqhuba le galari, uBradburne ubhalise uFranziska Nori, owayesakuba ngumlawuli weMyuziyam yaseFrankfurt yoBugcisa obuSebenzisiweyo, owenza i-CCCS ibonakalise imiboniso evusa inkanuko, imiboniso ekrelekrele ethe yahambisa ubugcisa beli xesha ukusuka ekungafunekiyo ukuya kufutshane neminikelo yenkcubeko kaFlorence— Ibalulekile esixekweni kumzabalazo oqhubekayo wokubaleka phantsi komthunzi woBuvuselelo obuzele. Injongo [ye-FPS] kukuba liziko langoku kwisixeko sobuNtshatsheli, utshilo uBradburne. Omnye akaphikisi omnye. Umva ongasemva kukuphefumlelwa.

Ihlala ingemva kokonwaba okungenakuphepheka. Ngaphesheya komlambo, ezantsi kwe-brushstroke cypresses ejikeleze iSan Miniato, yinqaba ye-14th century San Niccolò tower, ukungena okumazantsi mpuma eFlorence ngexesha lobudala begolide. Nge-1 kaJulayi, emva kokuvalwa kweminyaka engama-40 kunye nomzamo wokubuyiselwa kwe- $ 400,000, yaphinda yavulwa eluntwini njengenxalenye yenkqubo yokuphucula uSodolophu uRenzi. Izinyuko zikhokelela kwingqungquthela yeenyawo ezili-148, apho umntu anokujonga khona isixeko siphela. Umbono awufani ngendlela eyoyikisayo kulowo wonwabelekileyo kufutshane noPiazzale Michelangelo. Onke amatye ezikhumbuzo, zonke iimpawu zomhlaba eziqhelekileyo zisasazekile-zihlanjwe kwilanga elifanayo le-pellucid, zithe saa kwiinduli ezifanayo. Isenguye uFlorence sonke esimaziyo nesimthandayo, kodwa iyamangalisa indlela utshintsho oluncinci lwembono olunokuthi lwenze ukuba kubonakale kwahlukile nje, ngandlela ithile intsha.

Hlala

Ixabiso elikhulu Indlu yeeNdwendwe yaseCasa Howard Florence Ukuhamba nge-della Scala; 39-06 / 6992-4555; lunga.casahoward.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi $ 180.

I-Salviatino Via del Salviatino, Fiesole; 39-055 / 904-1111; salviatino.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi- $ 760.

J. K. Indawo yomlilo 7 Isikwere seSanta Maria Novella; 39-055 / 264-5181; indawo.com ; iphindwe kabini kwiidola ezingama-490.

Palazzo Vecchietti Ukuhamba nge-4 nge-degli Strozzi; 39-055 / 230-2802, palazzovecchietti.com ; iphindwe kabini kwiidola ezingama-440.

ISt. Regis Florence 1 Piazza d'Ognissanti; 877 / 787-3447 okanye 39-055 / 27161; zintng.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-1,386 yeedola.

Villa San Michele Eli gqala lihle leFiesole elingaphezulu kokugcina kukhuphiswano. Nge-4 ngoDoccia, eFiesole; 39-055 / 567-8200; villasanmichele.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-1,200 yeedola.

Yitya

Uselwa Ngcwele Ukutolikwa okuphezulu kwe-trattoria, le ndawo yokutyela inamagumbi amabini ihlala igcwele. I-64 / 66R ihamba ngeSanto Spirito; 39-055 / 211-264; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-90.

'mna hayi Akukho ndawo ingcono yokungena kwi-panino eyenziwe ngobuchule kunye neglasi ebomvu evela kumvelisi we-boutique. I-3R Via dei Georgofili; 39-055 / 219-208; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezili-18.

IO Osteria yobuqu 167R iBorgo San Frediano; 39-055 / 933-1341; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini.

Ixesha lomoya Kwindlela encinci emthunzini we-Uffizi, umpheki uMarco Stabile uqokelela izinto zemveli kwaye azicinge ngeendlela ezinobuchule. 11R Ukuhamba nge-dei Georgofili; 39-055 / 200-1699; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezili-168.

UZeb 2R Ukuhamba ngeSan Miniato; 39-055 / 234-2864; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezimbini ezingama-53.

Ivenkile

Ubuqaqawuli Indawo efanelekileyo yokuphefumlelwa koyilo lwase-Italiya. 6R Piazza Carlo Goldoni, 39-055 / 267-0154.

Luisa Via Roma I-classic yaseFlorence esanda kulungiswa, kunye noFelice Limosani njengomcebisi ngobuchule. Nge-19 / 21R nge-Roma; 39-055 / 906-4116.

Bona kwaye wenze

IiGadi zeCascine Ukuhamba ngeClecine Cascine; akukho fowuni.

I-Tuscany kaThixo Ngolwazi oluthe kratya malunga nomsitho wonyaka olandelayo, oza kubanjwa ngoMeyi, ndwendwela divinotuscany.com .

Isiseko sePalazzo Strozzi / iStrozzina iZiko leNkcubeko lale mihla UPiazza degli Strozzi; I-39-055 / 277-6461.

Le Murate UPiazza della Madonna della Neve; Ndiyabulela.com .

ISan Niccolò Inqaba UPiazza Giuseppe Poggi.