Ndicinga ngam ngokungoyiki ekuphishekeleni imincili ye-gastronomic. Ndiloyisile uloyiko lwam lwezigcawu zehlokondiba elicingelwayo ukwenza isampuli yomoya othosiweyo puchkas e Kolkata, eIndiya. Ndizoyikisile iindlela ezijikelezayo ukuya kwinkolo ebuyela umva kwiintaba zephondo laseSichuan ngenxa yesoterica yemifuno. Kuboniswe isidlo sasemini kwiMacao engenamthetho njengoko amaqela emigulukudu athabathanayo athathana ngokuluma iMacanese chili shrimp. Kodwa andikwazi nje ukuya kwi-gastronomic nirvana yaseJapan, ngoko ke ndaphangwa ngenxa yeendaba zokungakhathali kwabangaphandle kunye namaxabiso e-stratospheric.
Emva koko uRichard Bloch, umlingane wezakhiwo ohamba rhoqo ukuya kwiikomishini eziseTokyo, uthembisa ukundikhokelela kwiindawo ezifihlakeleyo apho abakhenkethi kunqabile ukuba baye khona. Kwaye abahlobo baseJapanophile kwisiXeko saseNew York baseta unxibelelwano lokutya-kwihlabathi elizimisele ukukhokela iqabane lam, uSteven, kunye nam kwindlela emnandi. Siphume saya kude, sizimisele ukufumana eyona nto ibalaseleyo eTokyo ekufuneka inikezele, kumanqanaba amaxabiso aphezulu kunye asezantsi, ukusuka kwabangabodwa nabangacacanga ukuya kwabarhabaxa nabathobekileyo.
Ngo-10 emva kwemini, ngaphandle kweeyure ezintathu emva kokufika eNarita, i-odyssey iqala nge USushi Takumi Okabe , kwisixeko sase-Asakusa, apho i-duo ye-sushi ibambelela khona kwi-counter-set of 9-counter counter. Ukuqala, siphunga ingqele ebandayo kaKoshinozeki, ipetroli yeprimiyamu ye-Edo-era masterworks ye Kaichiro Okabe. Umpheki, sixelelwa ukuba, ngumcebisi kaMasa Takayama, onikwe i-sushi eyi- $ 450 omakase uchulumancile uManhattan sushi cognoscenti okoko kwavulwa indawo yakhe yokutyela, iMasa, ngo-2004. Xa esiva igama likaTakayama, umpheki uyancuma aze aqhubeke nokusika izilayi ezityhafileyo kwi-needlefish yesilivere, azipeyinte ngesosi ebomvu nepepile kunye nesesame. Isibindi sentlanzi silandela kumgxobhozo wesoya, emva koko umngcelele weebhotile ezincinane: amasuntswana e-shrimp ekrwada abambelela ngokuzithandela kulwimi; i-mackerel chunks ene-spikes ze-nori; Amaqanda kanonkala axhonywe ngohlaza lwaselwandle. Ezi zinto zothusayo kunye neencasa zisandulela isushi, iintlanzi zeentlanzi ezifika zityibilikisiwe kunye nesosi ekhethekileyo yompheki-ikhowudi yendalo yonke andikhuphi zimfihlo zam. I-squid iza ifakwe iqanda elityiweyo, isitayile se-Edo. Iviniga iyabunciphisa ubumnandi be-shrimp eluhlaza kwilayisi efudumeleyo. Ukubetha okukhulu kwe-wasabi kwi-tuna enamafutha kuya ngqo kwingqondo yam. Iimvakalelo zam zingena kukuhamba ngokugqithiseleyo njengoko ubunzima obuninzi buhanjiswa ngesantya somsitho, isiqwenga esinye ngexesha. Okanye ngaba ziisips zento phakathi? Ndonwabile ukwazisa ngokufuna kwethu kwinqaku eliphezulu kangaka.
Ngosuku olulandelayo, singena kwi-foodie gurus yethu, kwaye wonke umntu endithetha naye ubonakala ngathi unebhari ye-sushi ayithandayo, robata i-grill, okanye itempile ye-kaiseki (iinxalenye ezincinci zokungcamla kwizitya ezigqibeleleyo kunye neesosi). Abantu baseJapan bathe phithi kukutya njengathi thina baseMelika — ngakumbi kunokuba kunjalo. Ndiyababona bekolayini ukuze bathenge i-60 yeeponti yeti eluhlaza kwi Takashimaya xa simisa sijonga iholo enkulu yokutya kwivenkile ezidliwayo zamanye amazwe. Sampula igyoza (Iidombolo zenyama yehagu) kushushu kwi-griddle. Oonobhala basibonisa umboniso weFauchon kunye nemigqomo emikhulu yeelekese zaseJapan ezithengiswe ngegram. Andiboni ukuba nabani na uthenge i-melon eyi-100 yeedola, kodwa eneneni zibonisiwe kwizicwili ezirhabaxa njengamaqanda eFabergé.
Ndiyaqonda ukuba singatya kahlanu okanye kathandathu ngemini ukogquma zonke iindidi zokupheka eTokyo kuphela, apho iMichelin inikezele ngeenkwenkwezi ezingama-320 — ngaphezulu kweParis, ngaphezulu kunaso nasiphi na esinye isixeko emhlabeni. Esi sisixeko apho ubuchwephesha buba yinyani, kunye neeresityu ezenza i-eel okanye i-fugu (i-blowfish enokubulala ukuba ayichanekanga ngokufanelekileyo), iivenkile ze-noodle ze-udon, ezinye ze-soba, amalungu e-ramen, i-tempura, i-cutlets yehagu, iinxalenye. Ngaba kufanelekile ukuba singayinanzi inkanuko yaseJapan yokupheka kunye namaqebengwana e-gooey? Ungayihoyi intanda kaMichelin, uJoël Robuchon? Ewe: Emva kwayo yonke loo nto, singaya e-Atelier kaRobuchon ekhaya eNew York.
Ndinomdla ngakumbi malunga netempura. Ngaba okona kulungileyo kunokuba nemincili ngokwaneleyo? Kumava am eNew York, itempura ayifane ibenomdla njengolungileyo ixutywe eqhotsiweyo, soze njengokuhambisa njenge-sushi ephezulu. Kodwa umhlobo uye wanyanzelisa ukuba sifumane ingokuhlwa yetempura Kondo , oyintandokazi yakhe eGinza. Ndiyathemba isityhilelo esinzulu.
Kukho izihlalo ezili-15 kuphela kwikhawuntara emise okwe-U (ebhukishelwe kude ngaphambili) kwenye yezo nqaba zinjengeenaliti. Kodwa sifumana isaphetha kuFumio Kondo ngokwakhe, otyalwe phambi kwesikhululo sokuqhotsa ecaleni kwentaba yomgubo ocoliweyo, iingalo zakhe zisongwe okwegorha eliphakathi. Abafazi abancinci bahambisa iziselo kunye neebhaki zokuzonwabisa ezivela ekhitshini. Emva koko, xa wonke umntu engena kwisandulela, amaxesha kaKondo, ajikelezisa intloko yakhe njengebhokisi yomdlalo webhola, kwaye ujika enze isenzo. Impukane iyabhabha njengoko irhuqa izidalwa zaselwandle kwinduli yengubo eyomileyo ye tempura okanye igalela ibhetshi yomgubo wengqolowa ethambileyo ibatter. Ubeka itreyi encinci phambi kwam, ulahle uxande lwesikhumba kuyo, aze ahambise iintloko ze-shrimp. Ke iphepha elicocekileyo lemizimba ye-shrimp, iswiti kwaye ithenda ngokumangalisayo. Unika imiyalelo kuthi sobabini ngesiNgesi: Sebenzisa ityuwa, utsho. Ngoku, isosi. Ngeli xesha, ikalika.
Apha kuza ingcambu ye-lotus eqhotsiweyo, iingcebiso ze-asparagus, ibhalbhu yenyibiba. UKondo uhlala emisa ukuhlamba lo mxube ugalelwe kwiminwe yakhe. Akukho sosi, uyalela intlanzi encinci. I-Scallop, i-clam, i-whiting, isitshalo seqanda sityibilikisiwe. Izikhumba ezenziwe ngamanqatha ziyanyamalala kwaye zifikile ezicocekileyo. I-Kondo ikhetha into engaqhelekanga, eluhlaza, enjenge-acorn kwibhaskithi yemifuno yasentwasahlobo ( ngamaxesha athile onyaka yayiyimantra yaseJapan kwakudala ngaphambi kokuba abapheki baseMelika bafumane inkolo). UButterbur, uthi, ngokungathi oko kuyakuchaza. Ucinezela ibhalbhu ebethiweyo njengoko ibetha, ngoko iyavela ikhangeleka njengebroch enkulu. Ngaba incasa yayo? Umongo woluhlaza, kunye nesibane esimangazayo sokuba krakra ekugqibeleni. Ndiyaqala ukuqonda.
Ngorhatya olulandelayo umhlobo wethu wezakhiwo uRichard usikhokelela ezantsi kwindledlana encinci edlula kwisikhululo segesi ukuya Owan , efihliweyo emva komdwebo omangalisayo wesinyithi kunye neglasi. Kucacile ukuba uyayithanda le-oasis encinci, hayi nje ngexabiso eliphantsi omakase Uluhlu lwezidlo ezimnandi- $ 50 nje ngomntu ngamnye — kodwa kunye nolwalamano kunye nomnini othandekayo, uKuniatsu Kondo, indoda ehlonela ngokucacileyo uyilo nayo. Iifaskoti ezinemibala ye-terra-cotta ziyangqinelana nodonga lwe-terra-cotta, kwaye izitya azibeka phambi kwethu zibonise izinto zodongwe zexabiso zakudala kunye ne-lacquerware kwiishelufu ezikhanyayo. Umpheki ukhetha indebe ngenxa yam kwingqokelela yetreyi. Iscroll yemenyu sigcinwe sivuliwe ngamatye amabini amnyama agudileyo. Umncedisi emva kwekhawuntara enezihlalo ezili-12 eqingqa umkhenkce kwiimilo umpheki azifunayo; i-chunk enobugcisa iya kwi-plum wine spritzer yam.
I-Kondo ibeka iityuwa ezikhethekileyo zokuvula i-gossamer ye-tofu esandula ukwenziwa, ilandelwe yi-mizuna isaladi ene-shavings ye bonito eyomileyo. Isilwandle esimnyama umpheki uzilolongela ngokwakhe eza kwipleyiti yesashimi, intlanzi inomdla egudileyo kwaye iqinile, iqondo lobushushu lilungile. Iscallop, oyster, kunye ne-broccoli rabe stud yokulahla inkunkuma ethambileyo edada kumhluzi wedashi. I-Shrimp isandwe phakathi kweesilayidi ze-lotus iqengqiwe kwi-batter kunye ne-deep-fried for tempura. Inyama yehagu isongwe nge napa iklabishi. Ndiyayiqonda into yokuba umpheki uhamba esiya kwisiphelo sokugqibela saseJapan seqanda elingcwelisiweyo. Umpheki ngamnye uyaziqhayisa ngomxube weqanda lakhe, utshilo uRichard. Ngokungafaniyo nokusikwa kwe-blobby ye-omelette ndiyayiphepha ekhaya, le ifudumele, kwaye ayimnandi kwaphela, ine-radish egreyithiweyo ecaleni kwayo.
Ndaceba ukuzicwilisa ngokutya kwaseJapan, ndikhangele iindlela ezimangalisayo zemiso, tofu, mochi (uncamathele irayisi) Sitya ukutya okumnandi okumbalwa kakhulu kushiage, Izinto eziqhotsiweyo kwi-skewers, i-specialty ye Rokukakutei , ngaphezulu kweBarney’s eGinza, apho ingqokelela encomekayo yeewayini ezingenisiweyo zigalelwa kwiibhokhwe ezibizayo. Umpheki ugcwele isimanga: i-lotus enzulu eqhotsiweyo, emva koko isikiwe; ishiitake kunye nesalmon; iqhekeza lenkomo lisongelwe ngentambo imbotyi. Ngamnye wethu ufumana isitya semifuno eluhlaza ukuze aqhekeze phakathi kweentwana ezomisiweyo.
Andizukuza apha kukutya isiFrentshi, kwaye andibalwanga kumdla waseJapan wezinto zangaphandle. Kodwa umntu othanda ukutya-malunga nedolophu usimemela kwisidlo sasemini Indawo yokutyela iKinoshita , apho ukuzinikela kwabantu abazizityebi kuye kwenza umnini uKazuhiko Kinoshita waba yinkwenkwezi. Kodwa ungumpheki weenkwenkwezi ohlala ekhitshini lakhe, umbuki zindwendwe wethu uyabona. Nangona izihlalo ezingama-32 zihlala zibhukishwa kwangaphambi kwexesha, sikwazile ukubambisa imigca emithathu yomzuzu wokugqibela kwitafile yoluntu kunye nembono entle yeKinoshita. I-Athletic kwisikipa sakhe esimhlophe kunye nefaskoti ebotshelelwe ijean, yena ngokobuqu ulungisa zonke iipleyiti, iindevu zakhe kunye nebhokhwe ebeka intloko engacwengekiyo engenazinwele.
Emva kwe-trio ye-amus-bouches, i-jellied lobster cocktail indenza ndiqonde ukuba ndiyabulela ngekhefu emva kweveki ye-soba, intlanzi yolwandle kunye ne-pickbits. I-bisque yokutya kwaselwandle echumileyo inuka kamnandi njengeFrance. Imenyu yesithandathu yokunambitha ayidibanisi nenkqubela phambili yemibongo, kodwa ndisisidenge se-sausage yegazi, kunye ne-peppery calamari yompheki. Ifilthi yetyhefu yenyama yenyamakazi, ekhonza inqabile ecaleni kwento ene-caul esongelwe yinyamakazi, ilandelwa ngamacandelo e-tangerine kwisiqithi esinzulu se-crème brûlée. Umhle kakhulu kumpheki ongazange aye eFrance.
Phambi kotyelelo lwam, ndandilunyukisiwe ukuba kukho iivenkile zokutyela zaseTokyo ezinesoteric, ezikhethekileyo kakhulu, ezibiza kakhulu kangangokuba ziindlamafa kunye nabahambeli kuphela abamkelekileyo. Kodwa kwiphulo lam lokufuna ukutya nge-foodie epiphany kwikomkhulu laseJapan, ndothuswa luhlu olothusayo lokutya okuphezulu nokuphantsi, ndaza ndathandwa yimisitho yokunikela ingqalelo. Ukusuka ekwamkelweni ngentshiseko kumalungiselelo okutya okukhawulezayo kwindawo engummangaliso ye-kaiseki yomsitho, naphina apho besiye khona, ukutya ibisisiganeko esiphambili. Ukutya okungaphezulu kwako konke, okwamaxesha onyaka, kodwa okwakhayo, okungaqhelekanga kunye nokulungileyo.
UGael Greene ngumbhali we Ayoneliseki: Iintsomi ezivela kuBomi boKutya okuDlamkileyo (Iincwadi zeWarner).
Kondo I-Sakaguchi Bldg., Yethoba i-fl., 5-5-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku; 81-3 / 5568-0923; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezingama-290.
Owan Okada Bldg., 2-26-7 Ikejiri, Setagaya-ku; 81-3 / 5486-3844; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezili-157.
Indawo yokutyela iKinoshita Estate Bldg., 3-37-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; 81-3 / 3376-5336; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezili-144.
Rokukakutei UKojun Bldg., I-fl yesine., 6-8-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku; 81-3 / 5537-6008; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezingama-360.
USushi Takumi Okabe 5-13-14 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; 81-3 / 5420-0141; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini.
Takashimaya Nihonbashi 2-4-1 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku; 81-3 / 3211-4111.
Kondo
Ukukhwela imigangatho esithoba kwi-claustrophobic, ilifti ebethiweyo kufanelekile: Iingcango zivulelwe iKondo, igumbi lokutyela elizolileyo leZen kunye nomsedare omdaka onganyelwe yinkosi yefry Fumio Kondo, ehlonitshwa ngokufihla kwakhe iresiphi eyimfihlo. Umpheki udibanisa uthotho lwemifuno kunye nentlanzi kwii-oks zethusi ezigudisiweyo zigcwele ioyile yesame egcotyiweyo; Iziqu ezingenasiphako ze-asparagus, amagqabi amatsha e-ginger, i-pink shrimp yonke, kunye neentlanzi ezincinci ze-goby zonke zifumana ukukhanya okutshisayo. Elinye ixesha elikhethekileyo lonyaka kukutshaya ama-shiitake amakhowa, aphakanyiswe kwifama kwizikhuni zomsedare. Ukuphela kwesiphelo, cela iminqathe ekhuhliweyo, ekhuthazwe yidome yeswekile esontiweyo umpheki wangcamla kwelinye lamatye kaPerre Hermé eParis.
Rokukakutei
Le Ginza encinci ye-Ginza yafumana inkwenkwezi yeMichelin ngobuthixo bayo kushiage (i-skewers enzulu). Ngelixa uluhlu lwewayini lubalasele, ukonwaba (ukubandayo okubandayo) kukwahamba ngambini kunye kushiage .
Owan
Indawo yokutyela ifihliwe ngasemva komfanekiso ophakamileyo wesinyithi kunye neglasi. Amaxesha onke ayayithanda le ndawo hayi amaxabiso athambileyo omakase uluhlu lwezitya ezimnandi- $ 50 nje ngomntu ngamnye — kodwa kwanokunxibelelana kwakhe nomninimzi othandekayo, uKuniatsu Kondo. Iscallop, oyster, kunye ne-broccoli rabe stud yokulahla inkunkuma ethambileyo edada kumhluzi wedashi. I-Shrimp isandwe phakathi kweesilayidi ze-lotus iqengqiwe kwi-batter kunye ne-deep-fried for tempura. Inyama yehagu isongwe nge napa iklabishi.
Indawo yokutyela iKinoshita
Ukuzinikela kwezinto ezinobuncwane kuye kwenza umnini uKazuhiko Kinoshita inkwenkwezi kwaye wagcina izihlalo ezingama-32 zibhukishwe kwangaphambili.
USushi Takumi Okabe
Umpheki ngumcebisi kaMasa Takayama, onikwe i-sushi eyi- $ 450 omakase uchulumancile uManhattan sushi cognoscenti okoko kwavulwa indawo yakhe yokutyela, iMasa, ngo-2004.