Ndaqala ukubona iVenice ngoJuni 1984. Yayingumjelo ohambisa amanzi amdaka.

Ndafika eRoma nendoda eyaphambeneyo (umhlobo ophambene konke ukuzola kwengxowa yeekati), umfazi wakhe omtsha, kunye nomfanekiso wam ndihleli kwisuti emhlophe ePiazza San Marco ndimamele ivayolin ngelixa amahobe evuka. INkosi iyazi apho lo mfanekiso uvela khona-andizange ndifunde uThomas Mann Ukufa eVenice khange umbone uKatharine Hepburn engena Ngexesha lasehlotyeni . Ndathatha isuti eRome, ndadibanisa abahlobo bam, ndaya eFlorence naseVenice. Kwi-trattoria engacacanga ngorhatya lwam lokuqala ndadibana nomfoti, ibhinqa eliselula laseMexico lihamba linqumla e-Itali. Emva kokuqhawula umfanekiso wam kwisuti, ndimi phakathi kwamahobe ePiazza San Marco ngelixa ii-violin zitsala iiBeatles, weqa idolophu. Emva kokhenketho olukhawulezayo lweDoge’s Palace, ndaphinda ndasaba ndaya kuloliwe wase-Orient-Express ngeTyrol ethuleyo. Ukubanjiswa yihlobo kunye nokungazi, nam, njengabanye abaninzi, bendiziphosile iintsikelelo zesixeko.

Kwiminyaka embalwa kamva, ndaba nethuba lokubuya ngexesha leentsuku ezili-10 zekrisimesi ndisusa imovie kwi-sub-zero Quebec. Isicwangciso sokuqala yayikukudibana nomhlobo wam umfoti uBrian kunye nomlingane wakhe kwiCaribbean. Kwiveki engaphambi kokumka, uBrian wafowunela esixelela ukuba umcimbi uphelile… ngokunjalo nolwandle. UBill Murray ‘ngumthetho wokuqala weparadesi,’ wandikhumbuza. ‘Yizani nomhla.’ Ucebise, endaweni yoko, ukuba sityelele eyona ndawo inyibilikayo emhlabeni, nanjengoko kungekho ndawo besiya kuyo ngaphandle kokuya phezulu. Impendulo yam: Ewe, iVenice ilusizi ehlotyeni, ngoko ubusika kufuneka bube lusizi.

Ndabuya, ndilindele ubumnyama, kodwa ndifumana uxhwilo. IVenice ngeKrisimesi sisixeko njengoko sikhona kubemi: i-organic, i-serene, intle. Imijelo iyabengezela ngenxa yeholide. intsimi, isitalato, Icawa, kunye nemyuziyam ayinanto, ngaphandle kwabahlali baseVenetians banombulelo malunga nokuphumla kwezihlwele. Ukukhanya okuchwayitisayo nokuphakanyisiweyo kweVenetian, okungafakwanga yimizobo yaseKanaletto kunye noFrancesco Guardi, kulalisa ngakumbi ebusika, xa ukufuma okuvela elwandle kubetha umoya obandayo, kudala ubushushu kwitheku elihluza ilanga libe lipinki okanye igolide, kuxhomekeke ngeyure. Ukusondela kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya kwiteksi yamanzi, isibhakabhaka esikude seVenice sibonakala ngathi sisangqa phantsi kwale pastel. Ngobunye ubusika, ndikunye nomhlobo wam osuka eParis, ndafika ebusuku ngekhephu. Njengoko sasimile kwindawo evulekileyo yenqanawa sibukele izibane zedolophu zibengezela ngapha nangapha, iphenyane, elalinesibane salo esinye, laphazamisa umhlambi wee-gulls ezazizalele kwi-whitecaps. Ngokuhamba kancinci, iintaka ezimhlophe zagqabhuka kulwandle olumhlophe zaya kwikhephu elimhlophe eliwayo. Umfanekiso otyhafisayo wasishiya singathethi de umntu ohamba ngomkhombe wasebeza, Inike wam. ...

Emva kobo busika bokuqala, ndaphinda ndaphinda iVenice, ukusebeza kwesikhephe kwaba yimantra yam. Isiko leKrisimesi lazalwa. Unyaka nonyaka, inkosikazi yam, uSheri, kunye nam sihlangana apha kunye nengqokelela eyahlukileyo yezihlobo ezikhulayo nezinciphayo, kodwa zihlala zibandakanya uBrian, umkroli waseVenetian, isibini setumato esivela eCarlifonia, indawo yokuhlala ethengisa izindlu nomhlaba eMiami, nabanye — uninzi Esidibene naye apha kule minyaka idlulileyo kwaye bambalwa kubo sibona ngaphaya kwemida yamaphupha ale ndawo kunye nexesha. Kulo nyaka sidibanisa amadoda amathandathu avela kwishishini lokwenziwa kweefilimu, kwaye uSheri uyazibuza ukuba ubugcisa kunye noyilo luyakuthatha indawo yegalufa labo, amantombazana kunye nemidlalo. Ndiyamxelela: Ukuba abakwazi ukubhadula esixekweni kwaye bawele phantsi kwentsingiselo yayo, mababe balungisa kwi-disco eMadrid.

Sifika ngoDisemba 22. Isikhephe sisishiya kwisiqithi saseMurano ukuya kudibana neqela lethu lesidlo sasemini kwaye siqhubeka siye kwihotele uDanieli siyokubeka iibhegi zethu. Kwi trattoria esondeleyo Busa alla Torre da Lele, sihlala kwisidlo sasemini sezinto zakudala zaseVenetian: moeche (Isaladi esineqokobhe elithambileyo) izibheno kunye granseola (unonkala wesigcawu wasekhaya) ravioli. Emva koko, i-20-yard jaunt enqumla ibhulorho kunye nomnyango osecaleni kweCawa yaseSan Pietro Martire isikhokelela eGiovanni Bellini's 1488 Indawo yeBarbarigo, enye yeentandokazi zam ezimbini zeBellini, ukuba kuphela ngenxa yobuntu obuthandekayo kunye nobuhle ebusweni bukaMadonna. Emva koko sihamba ngemijelo yaseMurano de sime phambi kwe-Romanesque ye-12th century Basilica yaseSanti Maria e Donato.

Sithembe enye iteksi yamanzi, siwela ichibi, sihamba ngenqanawa kwisiqithi samangcwaba iSan Michele kunye necawe yokuncipha yokuncitshiswa kukaMauro Codussi (1469-78) kunye nomfanekiso wayo welitye elimhlophe laseIstrian, isakhiwo sokuqala sokwenene seRenaissance esixekweni. Ngaphakathi kweendonga zamangcwaba kukho ingcwaba le-ballet impresario uSergey Diaghilev (engcwaba lakhe lihonjiswe ngokuqhubekayo ngomdaniso wesiliphu), kunye nezo zikaEzra Pound, u-Igor Stravinsky, kunye nembongi yeembongi uJoseph Brodsky, umbhali we Watermark, Isikhumbuzo esihle sobusika bakhe be-17 eVenice kunye nebali elimnandi endikhe ndalifunda esixekweni.

Ividiyo: IKrisimesi eseVenice

Ukuhamba ngenqanawa kudlula kwiindonga ze-Arsenale, apho kwakhiwa iinqanawa zomkhosi ezothusayo zeriphabliki, iteksi yethu yehlela kwizithunzi zaseByzantine njengoko sihamba ngomjelo emva komjelo sithe cwaka. Ukukhanya okupinki kuyomisa ipalazzi entle kunye nokungaqhelekanga kwekati ukuwela ibhulorho. Abafazi abalupheleyo abaphethe iingxowa zeentlanzi ezisandul 'ukumbombozela omnye komnye xa behamba nje caffès > apho amadoda aphikisana nezopolitiko malunga ne-grappa. Intsimbi yecawa ikhetha intsimbi yesine. Yi le IVenice yeeVenetians —Venice yabantu baseVenice.

Sibuyele ehotele uDanieli, ikhaya lethu leKrisimesi, mna noSheri sime kwibhalkoni yethu kwaye sijonge echibini elikwisiqithi saseSan Giorgio kunye neCawe yaseSan Giorgio Maggiore (1566-1610), eyayineengcango zangaphakathi zamaRoma kunye nefadade UAndrea Palladio. Ukunyuka kweCanal Grand ngasekunene kwethu kulele iPunta Della Dogana, eyayikade iyindlu yamasiko, ngoku ilikhaya leziko lolondolozo lwembali lobugcisa, ngaphezulu kwalo kukho irotunda eyaziwayo yeBaroque yecawa yaseSanta Maria della Salute (1631-87).

Izicwangciso ze-ajenda yeholide, zonke iindlela zohambo ezikwenza uzive ukuba uyonwaba — Namhlanje, siya eLouvre! -Kujongwe kutyelelo lwam lwesibini lweKrisimesi. UGore Vidal, akukho mntu ungaziwayo kwimizobo yaseVenice (jonga eyakhe IVidal eVenice ), wakha wandilumkisa ukuba isixeko siyaluchasa olu hlobo lwexesha: Khetha icawe, Weller! Qalisa ngayo. Ukuba ulahleka okanye uphelelwe kwaye awusoze ufike-ke uza kuthini? Inqaku kukubhadula, ngakumbi ngeKrisimesi. Unokwenzeka kwi emaphandleni ibonwe amaxesha amaninzi ngaphambili elangeni, enkungwini, okanye emvuleni, kwaye, ngenxa yokungabikho kwesihlwele nokusasazeka kokukhanya kobusika, yiva ngathi ujongana nesikwere okokuqala.

Siqala ngentsasa elandelayo, njengoko sihlala sisenza, ngekhofi kwihotele ekufutshane iBauer Il Palazzo. Emva koko sihamba sihamba ngeSan Marco Canal ukusuka eRiva dei Schiavoni ukuya kwincam esempuma yesiqithi saseSant'Elena, apho irotunda palazzo enomtsalane ihleli kwindawo yokuhlamba iimpahla kumgangatho wokuqala. Iqela lethu (iqela laseLos Angeles alikafiki) libulisa umnini walo, uMaria, kwaye liyaqhubeka ngeVia Giuseppe Garibaldi ukuya kwisiqithi saseSan Pietro. Icawa yayo, kangangeenkulungwane iCathedral yaseVenice, ihleli ecaleni komkhombe omhlophe okhazimlayo kaMauro Codussi (1480’s), owenziwe ngelitye laseIstrian.

Sihamba ngeFondamenta Nuova ecaleni kwechibi ukuya kungena ngasemva kweGhetto. Igama elithile ghetto yavela ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane ye-16 njengendawo ekubhekiswa kuyo (... ghetto ), eyanikezelwa kubemi base-Itali abangamaYuda ukukhusela intshutshiso kwilizwekazi. Namhlanje, imigangatho ephezulu yezakhiwo ezibini ezingaqhelekanga ngokungaqhelekanga izindlu zesikhungu ezindala zaseJamani nezase-Italiya (zivuleleke kwiindwendwe ngokuqeshwa). Ekufuphi kukho izindlu zesikhungu zaseSpain naseLevantine, i-yeshiva, kunye neendawo ezimbalwa zokutyela ze-kosher.

Emva kokundwendwela nabahlobo eGhetto, iphezu kweGranal Canal endiyithandayo emaphandleni, ISan Giacomo dall'Orio, entliziyweni yendawo yokuhlala yaseVenice. Apha, uya kubona u-nary umkhenkethi (nokuba kusehlotyeni), ngaphandle kokuba ulahlekile. Umoya opholileyo kunye nokukhanya okujika i-sepia emva kwemini, siphunga i-espressos kwitafile engaphandle phambi kwe-Taverna Capitan Uncino enciphileyo apho siza kudibana nabahlobo bethu befilimu kwisidlo sasemini. Ekugqibeleni bazambathisa imizimba, ekubeni belahlekile ngenene amasimi, izitrato, kunye nemijelo. Banamehlo amakhulu kwaye bathule, ngokubonakala ngamatye. Igalufa, amantombazana, kunye nemidlalo, kubonakala ngathi, yinkumbulo ekude.

Sichitha intsasa yomhla wama-24 kuDisemba sihambahamba kwisiqithi saseGiudecca, sityibilika ezindleleni eziphakathi kwepalaz-zi yabucala, sityelele ibandla lasePalladio i-Il Redentore (1592), kwaye sime kwiivenkile ezimbalwa ezimema abantu. Siwela iGiudecca Canal ukuya kwisidlo sasemini I-tagliolini kunye ne-scallops (ipasta ene-scallops) eRistorante Riviera kwiZattere kwaye, emva koko, sip ikofu emanziweyo, unodoli we-ice cream ye-vanilla orhaxwe kwi-espresso, eGelateria Nico, indawo yokuzalwa yolu lonwabo. Kamva sangena kwitshokholethi eshushu ePiazza San Marco, umva kutyelelo lwam lokuqala ngo-1984. Ngoku, ke, sihleli eCaffè Quadri, apho umhlobo wam uFabio, umphathi wefestile, asikhonza khona ngelixa sibabaza iSan Marco. I-Basilica. Ngenxa yomxube wayo omangalisayo weemabula ezimibalabala, ii-mosaic, iarches, i-domes, kunye neentsika ze-Romanesque, Gothic, Byzantine, kunye ne-Islamic derivation, impembelelo kunye nemvelaphi ye-cathedral ingumbandela wengxoxo engapheliyo.

Ebusuku siyadla-ukuqala ngegugu le-Alba: i-truffle emhlophe. Sibaqwenga nge-tagliarini, njengoko sinayo yonke i-Eva kaKhisimusi iminyaka engama-20, kusapho lakwaMartin olukholisayo, olufudumeleyo, kunye nenhle iRistorante Da Fiore, kwisithili saseSan Polo ngaphesheya kweRialto Bridge. Emva kwesidlo sangokuhlwa, sazulazula kwikona sasebusuku ezinzulwini zobusuku (nokuba yeyiphi na inkolo yethu) kwi-monolithic Franciscan Church yaseSanta Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. Sithatha eyona ndawo intle kakhulu yelizwe, iTitian's Ingqikelelo (1516-18), ngelixa ikwayara yabantwana icula iingoma zeKrisimesi.

Ngentsasa yeKrisimesi silala kade ngaphambi kokonwabela iProsecco kunye capuchins kwiDanieli. Emva koko, uSheri udlulisela amazwi akhe kwi-The Twelve Days yeKrisimesi, esiye saxhela ngobunono ngelixa sicula, phezulu, ukusuka kwiigondolas ukuqala phantsi kweBridge of Sighs. Iqela lethu lokuzonwabisa lihanjiswa ngemijelo yamanzi angasemva — edlula kumasango amanzi emarmore epalazzi angafane abonwe ngabakhenkethi — eCampo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (aka San Zanipolo). Ngaphambi kokuba sithathe isidlo sasemini se-panini kwindawo yokutya i-Al Cavallo, siyema ukuze sikuxabise emaphandleni ’Amatye anqabileyo amathathu. I-Gothic Dominican Church yaseSanti Giovanni e Paolo igcina imisebenzi yexabiso laseVenice kaLorenzo Lotto, uGiovanni Bellini, kunye noPaolo Veronese, phakathi kwabanye. I-façade yenkulungwane ye-15 ye-Scuola Grande di San Marco (ngoku esibhedlele), ngu-Pietro Lombardo no-Codussi, yeyona ndawo ndiyithandayo kobu bomi okanye obuzayo: ubugcisa obuPhakamileyo boRenaissance beendlela ezijikeleziweyo, ezihambelanayo kunye netrompe l ' I-oeil marble reliefs yeeporticoes kunye neengonyama, zithweswe isithsaba se-Byzantine arches kunye ne-polychrome marble. Embindini wesikwere kukho umfanekiso oqingqiweyo wobhedu ka-Bartolomeo Colleoni (1488), othathelwa ingqalelo njengeyona mifanekiso iqingqiweyo yama-equestrian kunye ne-Renaissance master u-Andrea del Verrocchio, utitshala ka-Leonardo da Vinci.

Sigubha ubusuku beKrisimesi kwenye kunye ne-Harry's Bar kuphela, eqhutywa ngu-Arrigo Cipriani onobabalo. Ukugcwala ngabakhenkethi emini, ngokuhlwa indawo yangaphantsi iyaguqulwa. Iqela labalindi abangacacanga bahamba kwiitheyibhile ezincinci, ezixineneyo ukuhambisa izitya zezidlo zaseVenice ezinje Isardadi kwisor (Pan-fried sardines) ubukhulu becala kwiindawo zokutyela zasekhaya. Ndikhetha ukuqhubela phambili ikhowudi kunye nee-truffles ezimhlophe (ewe, kwakhona!) indlela yeVenetian: kumaqanda ngokulula. Ukutya isidlo sangokuhlwa kufakwe ikhekhe yetshokholethi encinci. Yiza ezinzulwini zobusuku, singene emoyeni opholileyo wasebusuku kwaye senze indlela eya eSan Marco, apho sifika khona ngaphakathi kwindlu yecawa ye-mosaic-isiphelo esifanelekileyo kumhla weKrisimesi.

Zininzi iintsuku ezizayo zokugcwalisa ngendlela esifuna ngayo: mhlawumbi siza kwenza uhambo oluya eTorcello, indawo yokuqala yaseVenice, ukubona owona mfanekiso mdala woMgwebo wokugqibela kwilizwe laseNtshona — kumzobo, ukuhombisa iBasilica yase USanta Maria Assunta. Emva koko sinokutya isidlo sasemini goh (I-venetian lagoon fish) i-risotto kwisiqithi saseBurano, kwaye emva koko uchithe imvakwemini uzula phakathi kwezindlu ezimibalabala ze-gingerbread nezitudiyo zokwenza intambo. Okanye sinokuhambahamba kwiigalari zobugcisa zaseDorsoduro nasemantla siye kwiimarike zalapha eKhanareggio, apho ukunqongophala kwabakhenkethi kuphawulwa kukungabikho KwiHerald Tribune yamanye amazwe . Asazi. Akunjalo nabahlobo bethu befilimu. Ukugqibela kwethu ukubabona, babeseSan Marco, ngovuyo bethathela ingqalelo ukhetho lwabo. Njengamacandelo edayimane, iVenice ebusika ibonakala ngathi ibonelela ngewaka lazo.

Ngenye intsasa yeKrisimesi, kwiminyaka eyadlulayo, umhlobo wacebisa ukuba iVenice yasebusika iyakuba sisixeko esifanelekileyo apho unganyamalala ngokulula-intelekelelo efunxa, njengesixeko ngokwawo ngeli xesha lonyaka. Mna noSheri sizakuba lapha — sibukele amaphenyane akusasa ethula imarike eRialto, sithathe imvakwemini ukuze sijonge iindawo ezityebileyo zaseTintoretto eSchuola Grande di San Rocco, okanye sikhangele imibala eqaqambileyo yaseVeronese Imizobo esandula ukubuyiswa kwiCawe yaseSan Sebastiano — de umntu athi ngathi, Bagqityelwa ukubonwa ngemini yeKrisimesi… eVenice. Okwangoku, ungasibamba eHarry's Bar.

Hlala

IBauer Ibhotwe Iklasikhi yaseVenice, kanye ecaleni kwePazza San Marco. ISan Marco 1459; 39-041 / 520-7022; bauervenezia.com ; iphindwe kabini kwi-600 yeedola.

Indlu enomtsalane DD724 Amagumbi anamhlanje amanyathelo avela kwiPeggy Guggenheim Collection kunye neegalari zaseDorsoduro. IDorsoduro 724; 39-041 / 277-0262; iangcangcaza.com ; iphindwe kabini kwi $ 270.

Ihotele uDanieli, ihotele eNtofontofo yokuQokelela Inqaba 4196; Ngama-800 / 325-3589; hbnatshixini.net ; iphindwe kabini kwiidola ezingama-455.

Yitya

Ehashe UCastello 6823; 39-014 / 528-5267; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezimbini ezingama-52.

Busa Alla Torre da Lele ICampo Santo Stefano, eMurano; 39-041 / 739-662; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-78.

Ikofu yeFlorian IPiazza San Marco; 39-041 / 520-5641; ikofu yeedola ezimbini ezingama-24.

Ivenkile yeNico cream UDorsoduro 922; 39-041 / 522-5293; barhaxwe iirandi ezimbini.

Indawo yokutyela iGran Caffè neQuadri I-120 iPazza San Marco; 39-041 / 522-2105; ikofu yeedola ezimbini ezingama-24.

Ibha kaHarry UCalle Vallaresso, eSan Marco 1323; 39-041 / 528-5777; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezingama-208.

Ixesha likaMatshi ISan Marco 4589 eCampo San Luca; 39-041 / 522-9109.

Irestyu yaseDa Fiore ISan Polo 2202 / A eCalle del Scaleter; 39-041 / 721-308; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezingama-234.

Ivenkile yokutyela IDorsoduro 1473; 39-041 / 522-7621; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezili-134 ezimbini.

UCaptain Hook Tavern ISanta Croce 1501; 39-041 / 721-901; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezimbini ezingama-97.

Yabona

UMhlawuleli Eyilwe ngu-Andrea Palladio (1592). ICampo del Santissimo Redentore, eSan Polo; 39-041 / 275-0462.

Palazzo Grassi / Punta della Dogana, François Pinault Isiseko Imyuziyam yobugcisa bemihla ngemihla ehlala kwindlu yamasiko angaphambili. Idorsoduro 2; I-39-041 / 523-1680.

San Giacomo dall'Orio ICampo San Giacomo dall'Orio, eSanta Croce; 39-041 / 275-0462.

ISan Giorgio Maggiore I-façade iphakathi kwe-Andrea Palladio yeyona intle. ISan Giorgio Maggiore, iGiudecca; 39-041 / 522-7827.

I-San Marco Basilica Umdibaniso wobugcisa baseRoma, ubuGothic, kunye neByzantine kunye noyilo. UPiazza San Marco; 39-041 / 522-5205.

ISan Pietro di Castello Ungaphuthelwa yintsimbi yenkulungwane ye-15 kaMario Codussi. ICampo San Pietro, uCastello; 39-041 / 275-0462.

UPeter uMartyr Ikhaya ukuya eGiovanni Bellini iBarbarigo Altarpiece (1488). 3 uCampiello Michieli, uMurano; 39-041 / 739-704.

ISan Sebastian Gcina iVenice kutsha nje incede ukubuyisela umjikelo wepeyinti yeVeronese apha. ICampo di San Sebastiano, Dorsoduro; 39-041 / 275-0462.

USanta Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Ubambe i-altarpiece yeTalt yaseTitian (1516-18). ICampo dei Frari, iSan Polo; 39-041 / 275-0462

USanta Maria Assunta Khangela i-counter-façade Umgwebo wokugqibela kaMoses. Torcello isikwere; 39-041 / 730-119.

Abangcwele uJohn noPawulos Ngaphakathi kukho imisebenzi kaLorenzo Lotto, uGiovanni Bellini, kunye noPaolo Veronese. ICampo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, Inqaba; 39-041 / 523-5913.

Isikolo esikhulu saseSan Marco I-façade yoKuhlaziya yoPhuculo oluPhezulu yenziwe nguPietro Lombardo kunye noMario Codussi. ICampo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, Inqaba; 39-041 / 529-4111.

Isikolo esikhulu saseSan Rocco I-Tintoretto igubungele isilingi kunye neendonga kwimizobo. ISan Polo 3052; 39-041 / 523-4864.

IPunta della Dogana

UBauer Ibhotwe

Ihotele uDanieli, ihotele eNtofontofo yokuQokelela

Indlu enomtsalane DD724

Amagumbi anamhlanje amanyathelo avela kwiPeggy Guggenheim Collection kunye neegalari zaseDorsoduro.