Ngo-2003, ndathenga indlu endala yamatye kwisiqithi saseCroatia iHvar komnye umfana ogama linguMikšić. Ndavuma ukuhlawula ixabiso lakhe lokucela imali, kodwa xa ndabuza ngokuzisa itsheki eqinisekisiweyo xa kuvalwa, kwahlekwa ngembeko. Iphepha elibonisa ukuba limele imali ayisiyiyo imali, wandixelela, nanjengomntu omkhulu ukuba angakusebenzisa kakubi umntwana ngengcinga engenangqondo. Yeyiphi indlela endiye ndazifumana ndikwinqwelomoya eya eSlit nge-wad enkulu yemali esongelwe esokisi yam, njengomntu okhulileyo ofanelekileyo.

Ngaphambi kokuba ubuKomanisi buzivuthulule ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-1990, uninzi lweMpuma Yurophu lwafika kolu nxweme luzodlala. Ehlotyeni, amaSerb ayedla ngokuya elunxwemeni lwaseYugoslavia, olwalubandakanya iCroatia ngezo mini. (Kwanasemva kokuba iimfazwe zaseBalkan ziguqule abahlobo baba ziintshaba, abantu abaninzi baseCroats ababenengqondo ephilileyo basala bephoswa yimibutho yasendle yamaSerb neengcebiso ezinkulu.) AmaCzechs, amaPolesi, nabantu baseHungary bathontelana kwiLadas nase Škodas zabo. AmaJamani aseMpuma apakisha inkampu, abetha elunxwemeni, kwaye kwangoko bathatha zonke iimpahla zabo, ezichaza ubuninzi bamanxweme aseCroatia abekwe i-FKK, okanye Ubuze , yentshukumo yobunqunu baseJamani.

Ndiqale ndakhubeka kule pinko yase-Eden ngexesha lekholeji Uhambo lwendlela kwiminyaka yee-1970. Kwisikhitshane esivela e-Italiya, umntu endandihlala naye egumbini lokuhlala kunye noCharlie sadibana namantombazana amabini aseMpuma Jamani-ndicinga nje ngabo njengeyunithi enye ebizwa UGisele-no-Erika . Ukufika kwethu eDubrovnik, bathatha izandla zethu ezibilayo kwaye basikhokelela ngqo kulwandle olukufuphi lweFKK.

Ukubuya kwam kwiminyaka engama-30 kamva, izinto ezininzi zazitshintshile. Iimfazwe zaseBalkan zeminyaka yee-90 zazingafikanga kwiziqithi, kodwa babulala i-buzz ngokufanayo. Ngoku, endaweni yamanudist aseJamani, ndafumana amaNgesi aqikelela umhlaba nomhlaba. Andinguye yedwa umphuphi onesokisi egcwele imali: kwakubonakala ngathi isiqingatha se-UK sasisiya kwilali enye sisiya kwilali enye, sijamelana nobuso obumhlophe kwaye sinefloppy, sijonge ukuguqula inzuzo kwiqamza labo lokuthengisa izindlu nomhlaba libe sisiqwenga selanga. Usenakho ukufumana indlu entle kakhulu yamatye nge $ 60,000, kodwa amaxabiso ayenyuka ngeveki.

Oku kundifanele. Ndifuna le bayifunayo. Ndandifudukele eParis ndisuka eNew York kungekudala ndathengisa indlu yam eWest Village. Iziqithi ezinamatye oNxweme lweDalmatia zibonakala ngathi zimele ithuba elinqabileyo lokungena kwi-bonanza yokuthengisa izindlu nomhlaba kwiparadesi engabalulekanga. Ngelixa amaSpanish, amaTaliyane, kunye namaFrentshi bechitha amanxweme abo ngokwakha ngaphezulu, akukho mntu wabeka umnwe kwiziqithi ezibalaseleyo zaseCroatia ezili-1 244. Usengayifunda imbali yabo, efriziwe elityeni. Kwiidolophu ezinkulu ezikumazibuko, abantu baseVenetian babephawule ubukhosi babo ngeecawa ezintle zoKuvuselelwa. I-Hapsburgs yayishiye amaziko oluntu ahlala e-Neoclassical kunye nesiko loburhulumente obunzima. Ezindulini, abantu belali babakhe izindlu ezibiyelweyo ezineefestile ezincinci ukuthintela umoya obhudlayo wasentla.

Iziqithi zisakhangeleka zintle ngokufanayo nangabo ngelo xesha, ngaphandle kophuhliso lwakutsha nje lwamaKomanisi. Phantse akukho shishini, ziikhilomitha nje ngeekhilomitha zeengqushu zelitye lekalika ezirhwexwe yiminquma, imidiliya, nepineyinti enevumba elimnandi, ilavender nerosemary. Kwaye kungqonge yonke into, amanzi acace okwefestile- la manzi afanayo awandimangalisayo xa uGisele-und- Erika waziphosa kuwo ze ze kudala. Ndagqiba kwelokuba ndizingele indlu yam kwisiqithi saseHvar. Kulula ukufikelela eSplit, apho kukho isikhululo seenqwelomoya samazwe aphesheya; yenye yezona zikhulu nezinelanga elikwiiDalmatian Islands; Kwaye kudala ikonwabela igama elothusayo lomlomo njengendawo yeholide, ibuyela umva ngexesha lamaGrike amandulo.

Ukufumana indlu engenanto yokuthengisa kwakungekho nzima. Ukutyhubela iminyaka, abemi abaninzi besiqithi baye bemka ukuya kufuna umsebenzi kwilizwekazi okanye bafudukela kwiindawo ezinjengeOstreliya, ke ubuqhetseba yayikukufumana abanini bepropathi engenamntu. Uninzi lwezindlu zamatye ezindala zaye zanikezelwa kwizizukulwana ezininzi, kwaye yayiqhelekile into yokufumana indawo encinci ephethwe ngabazala abali-17 ababethe saa kwihlabathi jikelele. Ukufumana ukuthengisa okucocekileyo, kwafuneka uzilandele zonke-nditsho nezo zisemaphandleni.

Kwakukho urhwebo olunomdla kwizindlu ezashiywa ngexesha lemfazwe ngabanini bazo baseSerb. Ukucinga yayikukuba, Ngubani owaziyo? Abasayi kubuya. Ndiqinisekile ukuba ndijonge ezinye zezi zindlu, isikhokelo sam isigebenga esisongelayo esigama linguScarpa, owayefake amakhonkco amabini ezindlebeni zakhe ezikhulu kwaye ejikeleza ngesithuthuthu esincinci, njengebhere yesekisi enobundlobongela.

Ndonwabe kakhulu xa ndadibana nendlu yakwaMikšić eRudina, ilali encinci ekumantla enduli usuka eStari Grad, idolophu yesibini enkulu yaseHvar. Indawo yayifuna umsebenzi, kodwa ilitye laqina. Yayijongana nesitiya esivulekileyo kwaye, ngaphaya koko, ulwandle. Ukuhamba nje okufutshane ukuhla endulini yayiyindawo efihlakeleyo — ilungele ilanga, ukuqubha, okanye ukuloba ebusuku i-octopus (eyathi ummelwane wam, uBortul, wandifundisa ngobubele).

Eyona nto ibaluleke kakhulu, uMikšić wayengumnini kuphela wepropathi, nangona wafumanisa ukuba uyimbinana yedwa. I-Dalmatians inokuba ngamaqhekeza kwaye iphikisane, kwaye njengabantu abaninzi besiqithi, bahlala bejonga into ehlekisayo kuye nabani na ovela ngaphaya komda wamanzi. Into yokuba ndidibene nexabiso likaMikšić yathetha ukuba uthethathethwano lwalusisiqalo. Andizange ndiziqonde izichaso ezahlukeneyo aziphakamisileyo, kodwa ngaphezulu kwehlobo lasehlotyeni ndaphantse ndalahlekelwa yindlu amaxesha amaninzi.

Ukulungiswa kuye kwahamba kabuhlungu kancinci kwaye kwaxabisa kakhulu kunokuba bendicinga njalo. Ndikrokrela ukuba ndifumana ubugqwetha. Kutheni le nto isinyithi esenziwe ngesinyithi sasingabizi kakhulu? Umfo kufuneka ayipekte kwaye ayiphule! Kufike inkcazo engathandekiyo evela kwikontraka, igosa laseburhulumenteni elinomdaka nelincumileyo elathi, ndafumanisa kamva, lalisaziwa ngokurhabaxa. Kuyinyani, bendisisidenge, kodwa uhlala ugqibela ngokuhlawulela amava. Kwaye kufanelekile, kuba ekugqibeleni indlu yafika yondele kakhulu kwinto endandiyiphupha ngayo. Ndiphantse ndive ngathi ndibukele igadi ikhula njengoko ndihleli apho: imithi yeminquma iye yaxhuma iinyawo ezintathu ezilungileyo ukusukela oko ndibatyalile, kwaye i-bougainvillea kufuneka inciphiswe kwakhona ngokuqhubekayo ukuze ingasibulali sonke.

Kwiminyaka emva kokuba ndiyithengile indlu, iziqithi zaseDalmatia zaqala ukuvuka kancinci. EHvar, izikhephe ezinkulu zaqala ukumisa izibuko kwizibuko lamahashe kwidolophu enkulu yesiqithi, ekwabizwa ngokuba yiHvar. Abantu baseVenetians babeyiguqulele ekubeni sisiseko somkhosi wamanzi ngenkulungwane ye-16 ukubanceda ukuba balwe nabantu baseTurkey, kwaye inqaba abayakhayo isemi kufutshane nedolophu. Ukujonga kwiimfazwe zayo namhlanje, unokuhlola i-armada engakumbi. Ewe, nguPaul Allen! Emva kwezikhephe kweza iiklabhu. Izithende zabafazi ziye zenyuka, kwaye iivenkile zokutyela zafumana imali. Kungekudala, abantu baqala ukubiza uHvar ngokuba yi-Ibiza entsha. Hayi, batsho abanye, yiSt-Tropez entsha! Ngombulelo ayisiyiyo, kodwa istrip disco thump ngobusuku basehlotyeni sicebisa ukuba idolophu yaseHvar iyangeniswa kwi-jet-set ecosystem.

Bendinemixube exubeneyo xa ndibukele utshintsho edolophini ndisuka esiqithini, malunga nemizuzu engama-20 ngemoto ndisiya elunxwemeni kwitonela yomqolo owahlulahlula isiqithi kubini. Andifane ndiye apho, kodwa i-real estate mogul kum yamkele nantoni na enokunyusa amaxabiso ezindlu. Iqela kwi, dudes , Ndacenga ndithe cwaka. Hlala kude necala lam letonela .

Iidolophana ezikumazantsi e-Hvar zibambelele kumanqwanqwa omqolo. Imozulu iyoma kwaye ishushu, kwaye ulwandle luhlala lusengqiniweni yakho. Icala elingasemantla lihle kwaye licocekile, lityebile ngobomi obuqhelekileyo besiqithi. Apho, ubusuku basehlotyeni kunokwenzeka ukuba baphathe izandi zemveli zaseCroatia ikwayala yeappappella (cinga ngequartet yebarbershop). I-Stari Grad ifumene ihotele yayo yokuqala e-boutique, iLifa leMveli i-Apolon, i-pink Neoclassical villa kwindawo yasemanzini. AmaXesha amane aMane abhengeze izicwangciso zokwakha indawo yokuphumla eStari Grad Bay, ekufuneka inike idolophu amandla ngaphandle kokulwa umlinganiswa ophantsi.

Kodwa ngaphandle kwamanyathelo anje ukuya kwindawo yokhenketho, akukho ngozi ingako uStari Grad uya kuhamba ngendlela kwidolophu yaseHvar-isibheno sayo sibuqili kakhulu. Kukho intetho iminyaka, umzekelo, yokwakha isikhululo seenqwelomoya kwesi siqithi. Ndiya kothuka xa kunokwenzeka. Okwangoku, kukho inkonzo entsha yolwandle ukusuka eSlit ukuya kwizibuko laseJelsa, ezantsi nje kwendlela esuka eStari Grad. Ndithathe umhlobo wam kutshanje. Abakhweli babebukeka bekhazimla ngokukhwela kwiponti — besibhozo bonke.

Ngokubanzi, kufuneka nditsho ukuba i-bonanza ebijongeke ingenakunqandwa xa ndathenga indlu yaseMikšić ngoku ijongeka ngokungafaniyo. Ibhola yokuthengisa izindlu nomhlaba yaseCroatia yanyuselwa ngamanye amaqamza; xa kwavela amanye amaqamza, ezethu zavela nzima. Kukho enye ingxaki, nangona ndiye ndafunda ukuyijonga ngakumbi njengentsikelelo. I-Dalmatia inokuphambana ngokungathandabuzekiyo xa kufikwa ekusebenziseni izipho zendalo uThixo azinike zona. Umhlobo wam uPaul Bradbury uqhuba ibhlog emnandi ebizwa Iyonke iHvar , ekhuthaza isiqithi awafudukela eNgilani kwaye uyasithanda.

Amaxesha amaninzi bendikhe ndadibana naye kwindawo yakhe yokudlela eqhelekileyo eJelsa, enomsindo kubarhwebi balapha abaye boyisa esinye sezindululo zakhe zorhwebo. Kule minyaka, uye waqala ukuyiqhela. Ndibonile oosomashishini bamanye amazwe besiza behamba, uBradbury undixelele kutsha nje. Basilela ikakhulu kuba abantu balapha bathanda izinto ngendlela abayiyo. Nje ukuba uyamkele loo nto, sele unesiqingatha seDalmatia.

Ndacinga ngalento ngexesha lesidlo sangokuhlwa endlwini yomntu walapha endimaziyo ogama linguBorivoj, ekumbindi womyezo womnquma ngasemva kwelali yaseVrisnik. Ukusuka apho ungabona uninzi lweelali ezisemantla zesiqithi: iSvirče nePitve ezindulini, iJelsa neVrboska emanzini, emva koko ziye kwisiqithi iBrac kunye neentaba zelizwekazi elingaphaya. Yimbono entle.

Ukuba uyabazi abantu ababaziyo iBorivoj, ungamfumana ukuba akwenze ube yindabuko ingongoma -Imbumba, ibhokhwe, okanye i-octopus ephekwe iiyure ezingama-24 kwi-casserole yentsimbi emile okweentsimbi. Isitya sinokuba ngamafutha, kwaye awufuni kutya ingongoma yonke imihla, kodwa kunzima ukufumana isidlo sithuthuzela ngakumbi. U-Borivoj undixelele ukuba uceba ukuguqula indlu yakhe encinci ukuba ibe yindawo yokutyela kunyaka olandelayo. Okanye mhlawumbi akunjalo. Ngokwam, andikhathali nangayiphi na indlela okanye enye, kwaye umakhi wepropathi obawayo ngaphakathi kwam akanjalo.

Iinkcukacha: Yintoni enokuyenza eHvar, eCroatia

Iihotele kunye neeVillas

IGreen Bay encinci Ilitye elidala indlu yasefama ibuyiselwe ngumzalwana nodade waseParis obekekileyo. UHvar; iphindwe kabini kwi $ 391 .

Villa Apolon Umbala opinki opinki edolophini namagumbi ajonge kwizibuko laseStari Grad. Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 122 .

IiVillas Hvar Ngoluhlu olungaphezulu kwe- Ama-villas angama-70, izindlu zokuhlala kunye namagumbi Ngaphesheya kwesi siqithi, le yeyona nkampani iphambili irente eHvar. Ukusuka kwi- $ 623 ngeveki .

Iindawo zokutyela

Ngobubele Eyaziwa ngokuba yi-lobster enxilileyo, le ntlanzi yokutyela ecaleni konxweme oluhamba ngeenyawo kwidolophu yaseHvar kuthathwa njengoyona siqithi sihle. Ukungena $ 34- $ 114 .

ITavern Dvor Dubokovic Umtsalane yokutyela kwilali esentabeni yasePitve eyenza i-octopus peka enkulu. Ukungena kwe- $ 8- $ 60 .

IPalmizana Meneghello An Indawo yokutyela yesiqithi , Umboniso wobugcisa,
kunye nendalo igcina imizuzu eyi-15 kwidolophu yaseHvar. Ukungena $ 11- $ 114 .

Umsebenzi woKhenketho

Imfihlo yaseDalmatia Nokuba ukhetha ukuhlala eHvar okanye ujikeleze iziqithi ezidibeneyo zeDalmatia, UAlan Mandic kunye neqela lakhe ingavelisa uhambo lwesiko olukusa kwiindawo ongazange wazi ukuba zikhona.