Akukho nto iyingozi okanye isoyikisayo eMadagascar. Kwi-safari yase-Afrika iphela kufuneka uhlale kwisithuthi, kuba iingonyama ziyakukutya kwaye iimvubu ziyakunyathela kwaye imikhombe kunye neenyathi ziya kuhlawulisa. EMadagascar, izilwanyana ziya kujonga kuwe ngamehlo amangalisayo. Kwininzi yeAfrika kukho iinyoka ezinobuhlungu kunye noonomadudwane aboyikisayo, kodwa eMadagascar akukho nto inetyhefu. Abantu baseMadagascar ngabona bantu bahle ehlabathini, bonwabile kuba uye wafika ukuza kuthi ga ngoku. Uya phaya kwii-lemurs, iinyamakazi ezingaqhelekanga zesiqithi, ezineentloni kwaye zilulamile kodwa zingenangxaki notyelelo lwakho, kwaye abantu bayafana. Kukho into encinci kwaye engonakaliswanga ngobomi eMadagascar.

Isiqithi sesine ngobukhulu emhlabeni sesinye iGalápagos, esibizwa zezinye izazinzulu ngendalo 'ilizwekazi lesibhozo.' Yaqhekeka kunxweme olusempuma yeAfrika kwiminyaka emalunga nezigidi ezili-160 eyadlulayo kwaye yaphuhliswa yodwa; Iipesenti ezingama-80 zezityalo nezilwanyana zaseMalagasy zikhona, kwaye ikhuphisana neBrazil kwindalo yayo. Iintyatyambo ezimangalisayo kunye nezilwanyana zibonakala ngathi zisisiphumo sentsebenziswano ehlanya phakathi kukaGqirha Seuss, uJim Henson, noThixo. Abantu bebelapha iminyaka engama-2 000 kuphela, kwaye nangona beshenxisile iintlobo ezithile, khange balawule indalo; zininzi kakhulu kwaye zimbalwa kakhulu. Iingcali zebhayoloji ezisebenza eMadagascar zizinikele kakhulu. UAlison Richard, usekela ngqonyela kwiYunivesithi yaseCambridge (umongameli weyunivesithi yase-de facto; iNkosana uPhilip ngu chancellor), uya minyaka le ukuya kugcina uphando lwe lemur nangona engoyena mntu uxakekileyo eNgilane. URuss Mittermeier, umongameli woLondolozo lwaMazwe ngaMazwe, ufumene ixesha xa engalawula omnye wemibutho emikhulu yolondolozo lwehlabathi ukuba abhale Lemurs yaseMadagascar , kwaye utyelela qho kwiinyanga ezimbalwa.

Umhlobo endandihamba naye wayenxibelelana noRuss, kwaye wasipheleka usuku lwethu lokuqala, esongeza iingcebiso ezisemagqabini ezivela kubasebenzi base-Explore, Inc., inkampani enobuntu kwaye enobuchule e-Colorado-based safari inkampani eyayilungiselela uhambo lwethu. Sahamba ngenqwelo-moya sisuka eAntananarivo, ikomkhulu — elaziwa ngokufutshane ngokuba yiTana — saya eDiégo-Suarez, kwincam esemantla yesiqithi, saza safika eDomaine de Fontenay, ihotele elula kodwa ethandekayo eqhutywa sisibini esipheka kamnandi. ngokwabo. URuss wasithatha sahamba saya eMontagne d'Amre National Park, kwaye sabona iqela leelamurs zaseSanford. URuss wazise umbono wokujonga iintaka ngokwenza uluhlu lwezilwanyana zasendle, kwaye wasenza sanomdla wokudwelisa iintlobo esizibonileyo; Ekupheleni kohambo, besizi-22 iindidi zee-lemurs. Andizange ndikulindele ukuba ndonwabe ngamacikilishe, kodwa uRuss wanceda ukufumana iBrookesia minima chameleon, esinye sezona zincinci zincinci ezinomqolo emhlabeni, esihlala eMadagascar kuphela kwaye asiphili kakuhle ekuthinjweni. Yenziwe ngokugqibeleleyo kwaye ingaphantsi kwe-intshi ubude, kubandakanya umsila wayo. Iyakwazi (kwaye yenze) ipherikhi kwincam yesithupha sam kakuhle kakhulu, inegumbi lokuhamba phezulu nangaphantsi. Emva koko sabona amanye amachaphaza eemilo ezahlukeneyo kunye nobukhulu kunye nemibala, kwaye uRuss wayedlala kakhulu malunga nokuwachola; sasizula sinyuka iingalo nemilenze — eyona inkulu yayiziisentimitha ezili-16 ubude. Babenemibala emangalisayo, benemisila esongelwe njengefernheadhead ferns.

Ngobo busuku, sisebenzisa iithotshi, sathabatha uhambo ngokuhambahamba kwindawo yabucala eqhotyoshelwe ehotele. Sibonile umdlalo wezasebusuku kunye nempuku kunye ne-lemurs emifutshane amehlo abo ayaqaqamba xa ubakhanyisela umqadi kubo, njengemigca ebonakalayo emaphethelweni eendlela, kwaye sabona zonke iindidi zegeckos kunye ne chameleons, kubandakanya i-gecko enomsila wegqabi, umsila wayo omkhulu ifana negqabi elimdaka ngebala. Sabona inundu elalikhangeleka njengesampulu yephepha leFlorentine, kunye nelinye elalibonakala ngathi lenziwe nge-moiré eguqukayo. Indawo leyo yayingakhange ihlolwe kakhulu ebusuku, kwaye kukho izinto ezothusayo zamacilikishe owaziwayo. URuss usibonisile ukuba yintoni ebenza bahluke kwaye wacebisa ukuba olunye luhlobo olutsha kwaye singabokuqala ukurekhoda. Ndaziva ngathi nguDarwin. IMadagascar inezidalwa ezininzi ezingekhoyo kwenye indawo ekunzima ukuyigcina, ngakumbi kuba iinxalenye zesiqithi ziphononongwe kuphela. Iintlobo ezintsha zifumaneka rhoqo, kwaye ezinye ebekucingelwa ukuba azisekho ziye zafunyanwa kwakhona. 'Uqoqosho lwama-lemurs amancinci yinto ehlazo,' utshilo uRuss.

Saya e-Ankarana ngosuku olulandelayo, kunye nesikhokelo sethu uPhilippe, unyana ka-ukumkanikazi wase-Antakarana. Sinethamsanqa ukuphuma sibona ezinye ii-lemurs ezinesithsaba kufutshane. Siphinde sabona igecko incamathele eluhlaza endicinga ukuba yenziwe ngabantu abalahle iasidi, benamachaphaza abomvu krwe emqolo, ngokungathi afakwe nguAnna Sui. Emva koko sabona ifayile ye- tsingys , iinaliti ezinkulu kunye namaza angacimekiyo elitye lekalika, aqoshwe lulwandle emva koko anyuswa kukususwa kwamacwecwe eteknoloji. Ngaba kwakungonelanga ukuba iMadagascar ibe nezityalo ezothusayo kunye nezilwanyana? Ngaba kwafuneka ukuba nayo ine-geology engaqhelekanga? Emva koko safika, kunye noPhilippe, kumqolomba omkhulu apho kuhlala khona imimoya yookhokho bakhe basebukhosini.

Ngosuku olulandelayo sasibona kumava ethu okuqala e-Third World-ish: inqwelo-moya yethu, esasinamatikiti kuyo, ayizange ibekho, kodwa ngonxibelelwano olwalungalindelwanga sade saya eTsara Komba, ihotele yethu eparadesi. Ngumnini womFrentshi kwaye uqheleke ngokupheleleyo kodwa uyayichukumisa i-chic ngendlela yelizwekazi kakhulu, enendawo entle embindini apho kunikwa khona izidlo, kwaye ngamagumbi amathathu kuphela, nganye iyindlu yangasese yangasese enethambeka elikhulu elijonge amanzi.

Umkhenkethisi wethu wasikhwelisa ngephenyane ngentsasa elandelayo, kuba kwakungekho zindlela, iinqwelo-mafutha, nkqu neebhayisekile eNosy Komba, isiqithi esasihlala kuso. IMadagascar sisiqithi esikhulu; kwaye iNosy Be sisiqithi esincinci kumantla eMadagascar; kwaye iNosy Komba sisiqithi esincinci kude neNosy Be; saza sahamba saya eNosy Tanikely, isiqithi esincinci esiseNosy Komba. UNosy Tanikely yayiziisundu ezimbalwa, iilwandle ezimhlophe, induli embindini nendlu yesibane esishiyiweyo, kunye nendlu yomgcini wesibane, apho uhlala khona umgcini wegumbi lokukhanya, ekuphela komhlali kwesi siqithi. Siye saqubha ngaselwandle ndaza ndabona iikorale ezintle, enye ifana nehlathi le-asparagus enombala wekhrimu eneengcebiso eziluhlaza, kunye neentlanzi ezininzi, kubandakanya nelimdaka ngebala elimnyama elinamajwabu amhlophe aluhlaza afana nomlindi wendiza yeAeroflot. Iifudo zaselwandle zazintle kakhulu, zinamaphiko amakhulu zihamba ngathi ngamaphiko, ziqhwetha ngokuthe chu, ngamanye amaxesha zijija ukuxoxa ngeekona.

Ndikuthandile oko kuthethwa sisikhokelo sethu malunga negcuntswana lamaSilamsi eMadagascar. Asikholelwa kubufandamentali. Abantu abasisiseko abaseli tywala. Kodwa sithi, sela utywala, kodwa zama ukunganxila. Umthetho wamaSilamsi uthi ungawadli amalulwane eziqhamo kunye nononkala. Kodwa sithanda unonkala, ngoko ke sitsiba nje amalulwane eziqhamo. Abaxhasi beemfundiso ezisisiseko bathi umfazi kufuneka azigqume iinwele zakhe, kodwa sithi owasetyhini akufuneki enze njalo ngaphandle kokuba uyabanda. '

Emva kwesidlo sasemini, sahamba saya epakini apho abantu batyisa ii-lemurs ezimnyama, ezatsiba ngaphandle kwemithi kwaye zahlala egxalabeni lakho ukuba uphethe ibhanana. Kwakukho oomama be-lemurs kunye neentsana ezazifakwe phantsi kwesisu sabo, kwaye ukonwaba ngokwasenyameni kwezi zilwanyana zasendle zazingenakulinganiswa. Emva kwemini, umoya namanzi eNosy Komba babubushushu obufanelekileyo, impepho yayisezulwini, kwakungekho zinambuzane, kwaye into endandiyifuna yayikukufumana indlela yokuhlala unyaka, ndihleli kwitafile yam ye-bungalow ndijonge enye Isiqithi esincinci kumgama ophakathi kunye neendlela ezinkulu zezithunzi zonxweme lwaseMadagascar ngaphesheya, njengeepirogues ezincinci ezihamba ngenqanawa phantsi kwesikwere okanye iiseyile ezingoonxantathu, kunye neeseyile ezimbalwa ezingaphantsi nje kokuba zibheqiwe, hayi omnye umphefumlo emehlweni Umoya unuka ngathi lulwandle nanjengeentyatyambo.

Emva koko saya eAnjajavy L'Hôtel. Ngo-1990, umnini-ndawo waxelela iarhente yakhe yezokuhamba eParis ukuba ufuna ukutyelela iMadagascar, kwaye iarhente yathi akukho zihotele zikwimigangatho yakhe, ngoko ke wenyuka ngenqwelomoya ecaleni kweChannel yaseMozambique de wafumana indawo efanelekileyo, kwaye wakha indawo entle ebutofotofo, ekuphela kohlobo lwayo kweli lizwe — isixhobo sokungenisa umoya, ukungena kwi-Intanethi ngaphandle kwamachibi, ichibi elihle, izindlu zezindlu ze rosewood ezithe saa ngaselwandle. Ufika apho kwinqwelo-moya yabucala yehotele; ukuhamba kwethu kwaba iyure egqibeleleyo. Ihotele ibhengeze indawo yayo yexesha, iyure enye ngaphambi kweMadagascar, ipakethe yexesha lokonga emini. Umnini ngumFrentshi kwaye abaphathi baseMzantsi Afrika, ke yonke into inesitayile kwaye wonke umntu uthetha isiNgesi. Indawo ihleli kwiihektare ezili-1,100 zepaki. Kukho amaphenyane okuqhuba emanzini kunye nokuloba nzulu elwandle kunye nohambo lwabucala. Iti yasemva kwemini inikwa i-knoll enengca apho iindidi ezininzi ze-lemur zinika khona abakhenkethi, kubandakanya ne-Coquerel's sifakas, i-lemurs ethandekayo enoboya obumdaka namhlophe. Kukwakho neentaka ezimangalisayo eziza neemvuthuluka.

Saqesha iphenyane ukuze sibone iintaka eziphuma ilanga eMoromba Bay, umzimba ogudileyo wamanzi ogcwele iziqithi ezincinci ezingqukuva, njengeflotilla yeminqwazi yeebhokisi zepilisi, uninzi lwazo lukhukuliswe ngaphantsi ukuze lubhabhe ngaphezulu kwamanzi. Kwakungekho nto yenziwe ngumntu kunxweme olulandelayo kangangeekhilomitha ezingama-20 ngaphandle kweedolophana zokuloba ezazakhiwe ngamaplanga neengcongolo esantini. Simise kwi-baobab engcwele, emalunga neminyaka eli-1 600 ubudala, isikali esingaphezulu kwesakhiwo esinefulethi esincinci kunomthi. Kufutshane kwakukho enye — enye yeentlobo ezintandathu zeMalagasy baobabs ezendeleyo — ezantsi ezantsi, enesiqu esithe nkqo, kwaza kwalandela amasebe aphambeneyo ngaphezulu, ukuze ibonakale ngathi uthixokazi waseIndiya onesiketi esidlalisiweyo kunye neengalo ezininzi ezirhabaxa . Kwakukho imihlume ecaleni konxweme lwamanzi kwezinye iindawo, kunye 'nolwandle isaladi,' esasizitya zityiwa ziincindi ezinetyiwa. Sama kunxweme olunye olude saza saqubha; kwenye ipikniki sasilungiselelwe yona kwindlwana yamagqabi esundu.

Emva ehotele, iqela lama-sifakas lalisemithini kanye ngaphandle kwendlu yethu, kwaye sathatha amawaka eefoto zabo; emva koko siye sabhucwa ithambeka lethu ngelixa ilanga litshonile.

Sahamba ke saya eAndasibe. Imibala yeedlelo eziluhlaza, eziluhlaza kunye nomhlaba obomvu, obomvu zazifana nomzobo womntwana kwikhrayoni. Siye sayongena kwi-Analamazaotra Special Reserve ukubona i-indri eneenyawo ezintathu, ezona ntlobo zinkulu ziphilayo ze-lemur (iifosili zibonisa ukungabikho, ubungakanani be-gorilla lemurs enkulu). Isikhokelo sethu esinamandla kakhulu sasithatha saya kungena ehlathini, emva koko seva indris yethu yokuqala, njengeeminenga eziwela ngapha nangapha zihamba kunye ne-air-raid sireni, ithoni engaqhelekanga, ephezulu yokuphithizela ebonakala ngathi ayinakwenzeka ukuba ivela kwisilwanyana esincancisayo, kungasathembiswanga. Kuya kufuneka uyazi ukuba ungazilandela njani izandi: nangona zinokuviwa kangangeemayile ezimbini, indlela isandi esivakalayo esithetha ukuba abathandwayo abanakuxela ukuba bakufuphi okanye bakude kangakanani. Sasibaleka sityhutyha ingca engaphantsi, kwaye xa ndilahla ithemba sazifumana siphantsi kwabo kanye. Izilonda zabo zazivala iindlebe, ezi zinto zinkulu zinobuso obumnyama obunomdla, behleli phezulu emithini kwaye besitya amagqabi, emva koko bexhuma, ngobabalo olungenakulindeleka, kweminye imithi xa begqibile.

Ngosuku olulandelayo, savuka kwakusasa saya kwiNtaba yeSizwe iMantadia, sikhawuleza sinyuka intaba sisihla sinyuka sisihla, kwaye sonke siziva siphathwa gadalala kancinci xa singakhange sifumane nto emva kweeyure ezimbini. Emva koko safika kwiqela elikhulu le-sifakas, elinezemidlalo kunye ne-whimsical. Sibonile iiferns zemithi kunye ne-bamboo endemic ekhula njenge-arch enkulu, efana ne-wro croquet wicket. Siphume ehlathini saya kwindlela yomlingo egqunywe ngothuli lwegraphite olusuka kumgodi okufutshane. Yayibukeka isilivere kwilanga eliqaqambileyo, ngaphandle IWizard yeOz , kwaye ukuba uyichukumisile, umnwe wakho ujonge ngokungathi utshintshele kwitreyi yesithunzi samehlo.

Emva koko saya kwindawo yokugcina iziqithi apho ii-lemurs ziqheleke ngokupheleleyo ebantwini. Sabona ii-lemurs eziqhelekileyo ezimdaka, ezatsiba emagxeni ethu zaza zahlala entlokweni zethu zaza zasenza sahleka sahleka; kunye nee-lemurs ezimnyama-mhlophe ezimhlophe; kunye nesidaka esithweswe isithsaba, esona sidalwa simnandi esinokucingelwa. Ngelixa ii-lemurs ezimdaka zatyhala zaxhuzula zamunca, isiphaka sajonga ngentloko kwelinye icala, kwaye ukuba uphakamise isiqwenga sebhanana, wolula isandla sakhe, wasiphakamisa ngononophelo, emva koko wasitya kancinci. Wayenoboya obuhle kakhulu, o-orenji oqaqambileyo nomhlophe kwaye ethambe ngendlela emangalisayo. Xa wayefuna ukuxhuma, waqonda ukuba womelele kangakanani, kodwa wayenomoya wobulali obungenakwenzeka ngaye, ngokungathi wayeneentloni kodwa wayefuna ukuba nobuhlobo. Ialam lemdaka zahlala iyure yonke, kodwa u-sifaka wabonakala ngathi ngexesha elithile uthathe ixesha lethu, wasuka waya ehlathini.

Endleleni ebuyela eTana, samisa kwipaki yezirhubuluzi, apho ndasiwa khona kunye nesele elikhulu leenyumato.

Kwiveki yethu yokugqibela, saya ehlathini elisemazantsi eMadagascar. Sahamba ngenqwelo-moya saya eTuléar, apho iveni eyayigcwele kukutya yasilinda inesikhokelo. Siphume saya kwindlela entle evulekileyo kangangeyure, emva koko saya kungena emaphandleni. Ndacinga ukuba sikwisithuthi esiqhutywa ngamavili amane, kodwa sasingekho. Ngapha koko, kwafumaniseka ukuba umqhubi wayengazange aye eBeza-Mahafaly ngaphambili, ke wayenolwazi oluncinci lwento ebandakanyekileyo ukufika apho. Ngenxa yokuba imithwalo yethu yayiseluphahleni, sasinomgangatho ophakamileyo womxhuzulane, kodwa isinqe sethu esiphantsi esisezantsi sasithintela indlela elula yokuhamba kwindlela enamagingxigingxi amatye amakhulu, imingxunya, imimandla ehlanjwe ngamanzi, kunye nesanti eyimpuphu, njengomlambo owomileyo. Sasinenkukhu yenkukhu ephilayo (isidlo sangokuhlwa) emotweni, eyayiqhubeka nokuncwina. Kwakufuneka sigcine iifestile zivulekile okanye siminxeke, kodwa isithuthi sasikhaba uthuli olwasichukumisa ubuso neenwele kwangoko. Sifikile kwidolophu yokwenene yokugqibela malunga nentsimbi yesi-5: 30 emva kwemini, kwaye xa sifika kwisikhululo sepetroli, umlindi wakhankanya ukuba kukho umntu ofuna ukukhweliswa kwaye singamkhwelisa omnye umntu? umphathi wenkampu ebesiya kuyo. Kungekudala, isithuthi saqala ukuntywila esantini, saye ke saphuma sonke satyhala saza sanyuka saza sadlula kuloo nto kwaye malunga nemizuzu emithathu kamva saphinda satshona. Kusithathe phantse iiyure ezintathu, kwaye inxalenye yokugqibela yohambo yayikukukhanya kwenyanga.

Ukufika kwethu enkampini, ndandikulungele ukuphuza umhlaba. Isidlo sangokuhlwa satyakatywa ngabafazi ababini abathe cwaka begobe umlilo omkhulu, emva koko saya kwiintente zethu saza sawa.

Ngentsimbi yesixhenxe entloko ngentsasa elandelayo, umkhosi wee-lemurs ezinomsila ubonakale enkampini. Kufanele ukuba babekho abangama-30 kubo, kubandakanya noomama abanabantwana abancinci abancinci phantsi kwesisu sabo, kwaye nangona babephathwa ngabasebenzi beenkampu njengezinto eziyinkathazo eziqhelekileyo, kuthi yayihlekisa kwaphela, kwaye andiyikhathazanga into yokuba baxhwile kwaye ndatya isidlo sam sakusasa seebhanana ngobisi olujiyileyo. Besonwabile, kwaye babebonakala bonwabile ngokwaneleyo ukuba babenomdla kubuhenyu bethu kwaye babetha amahlaya. Babeyizirhintyelo nabaphangi, ubuntu obunjengobuhlanga, kwaye batsibela ngokungapheliyo, ngamanye amaxesha kwitafile esasityela kuyo, emva koko benyuka bengena bephuma kwiibhakethi zeplastiki emthonjeni kwaye bebaleka emva kweenkunkuma kufutshane nalapho amanenekazi aphekayo ayesekhona emsebenzini (ngaba bebewubeke emlilweni ubusuku bonke?) kwaye bejika-jika bangena bephuma emithini.

Sifumene isefaka esinye seVerreaux, esasonwabela ilanga phezu komthi womtamarind ekungeneni kwenkampu, ejonge konke oku ngokungathi yinto engaqhelekanga kuye njengathi, kwaye mhlawumbi eneentloni kancinci.

Indawo yokugcina iBeza-Mahafaly yahlulwe yangamacandelo amabini. Ipasile yoku-1 'lihlathi lehlathi,' lomile kwaye lijolise emlanjeni obaleka ngexesha leemvula, kwaye iPasile 2 'lihlathi eliqaqambileyo,' libharhile kwaye linjengentlango. Kwakungu-Alison Richard owayesithumele apha, apho ebeke khona iliso kubemi be-lemur iminyaka engamashumi amathathu. Iqela libhala indawo kunye nemeko yazo zonke i-lemur enomsila kunye ne-sifaka kwiParcel 1 enedatha yobalo lwanyanga zonke kunye neetshathi zokuhamba kwamajoni. Kwakumnandi ukuqonda isayensi emva kweeveki zohambo lwe-voyeurism.

Emva kokuba sigqibile into esinokuyihlangula emva kwesidlo sakusasa, saqala ngeParcel 1 noJacky, inkosi yezophando kaBeza. Kungekudala safumana ii-lemurs ezinomsila emithini saza sazama ukubamba imitsi kwifilimu, iifoto ezimbini ezilishumi elinambini apho inyawo elihambayo lihlala ngaphezulu kwesakhelo, sonke isilwanyana sikhuphe ngokupheleleyo emfanekisweni. Kude kude, safumana usapho lwe-sifakas, kwaye ngokwenene ndingachitha ubomi bam ndibukele i-sifakas, intle njengo-Audrey Hepburn. Baphosa ukujonga kwabo ngendlela yethu kwaye babetha ubuhle bokudanisa emithini, kwaye indlela yabo yayihloniphekile, ngokungathi bachukumisekile kwaye bothuswa yingqalelo yethu enobubele; eneneni, babenembeko kangangokuba ndandicinga ukuba banokukuthumelela amanqaku ombulelo emva kotyelelo lwethu. Ekugqibeleni saziqhekeza saza saya ngasemlanjeni, safumana ii-lemurs zemidlalo zasebusuku zilele, nangona enye yavuka xa sithatha umfanekiso wayo. Sikwabona izirhubuluzi neentaka. Kwakukho umlingo osondeleyo kuyo: ii-lemurs zazingenabundlobongela, njengaseNosy Komba — indawo yogcino-zilwanyana yabucala ngokwenene — okanye zasendle kangangokuba zahlala zithe qelele kude.

Emva kwesidlo sasemini saqala ukuya emngcwabeni welali eMahazoarivo. Phakathi kwabantu baseMadagascar esemazantsi, umngcwabo uthumela kakhulu, into ebiza kakhulu eqhubeka iintsuku ezininzi kwaye ibandakanya ukusetyenziswa kweebu (iinkomo) kunye notywala obuninzi. Intsapho kufuneka yonge imali eyoneleyo, ngenxa yoko abafileyo bayaqholwa kwaye babekwa ezindlwini zokugcina izidumbu zenzelwe bona. Omnye wabahlobo bam endandihamba nabo wathumela ulwazi oluvela kuJacky lokuba izidumbu zazigcinwa kwisiqwenga samasi, ezazisifihla emnxebeni kwaye ziqulathe ivumba lokonakala. Incoko ethe xhaxhe noJacky ityhile ukuba ngokwenene bezigcinwe 'kwimithi yemithi' (wayenendlela ethile yokugxininisa): zifakwe kwilog engaphandle. Umngcwabo ngala mini eMahazoarivo wawenzelwe abantu ababini ababhubhe malunga nonyaka; ekupheleni kwayo, umfi uyakusiwa emangcwabeni asezindulini, kwaye izindlu zabo zokugcina izidumbu zitshiswe.

Kukho itheko kwilali iphela, amadoda aphethe imikhonto okanye imipu, kwaye abafazi banxiba imibala yabo eqaqambileyo. Nabo obu bubusuku bothando; Nawuphi na umntwana oyintombazana okhulelweyo ngexesha lomngcwabo kucingelwa ukuba unethamsanqa, kwaye umyeni wakhe akanakuze ambuze ukuba ngubani utata, kodwa kufuneka athathe usana njengomntwana wakhe. Amantombazana angatshatanga azama ukukhulelwa ukuze abonise ukuzala, okuphucula amathuba abo okutshata emva koko. Idolophana inomphathi wenkunkuma kwezi zihlandlo, kwaye iimvumi zelali zitsala zikhulisa ngokukhawuleza kwaye zidlala umculo omnandi wesintu. Nabani na oziva ngathi uyadanisa uqokelela nje phambi kwabo kwaye udanise. Iinqwelo ezinkulu ze-zebu zimi zijikeleze ilali. Usapho lwabangasekhoyo luhleli ngaphandle kwendlu yabo kwaye lusamkela iindwendwe, lunika wonke umntu izipho (sifumene ibhotile yesimoniki). Amadoda adubula iicartridge ezingenanto ezingasasebenziyo nanini na kukho umntu ofikayo, emalunga nemizuzu emihlanu. Abantu abafikayo benyuka embindini welali; konke kuphawuleka kakhulu. Umculo wawumnandi kwaye abantu bebahle kwaye bekukho ulonwabo olukhulu macala onke. Siye sabuliswa njengeendwalutho, ngokuba ngabaphambukeli nokuba size noJacky noAndry; besinabahlobo abalikhulu abasenyongweni kunye nokuvuka kwabantwana naphina apho siya khona. Ndaziva ngathi ngumtsalane wenhlanhla.

Emva koko saya kwiPasile 2, ihlathi eliqaqambileyo. Omnye umthi ongapheliyo unamagqabi kunye nefotosinthesize ngokusebenzisa i-chlorophyll kwi-bark yayo, ehlala ixobuka njengelanga elibi; Imithi ye-octopus zizinto ezingaqhelekanga ezigqunywe ngameva ezinamasebe amaninzi ajika emoyeni; kunye ne-euphorbias inamasebe aluhlaza wejometri achaza iindawo ezintsonkothileyo ezifana neekhubhu kwaye ajongeka njengemodeli yesakhiwo sekristal se-phosphorus. Sifumene umbono onqabileyo wesiphaka udanisa ngapha kwendlela; zihamba ngemilenze yazo yangasemva zatsiba ecaleni xa zisemhlabeni ovulekileyo. Emva koko sabukela usapho lwabo kwimithi ejijekileyo, kwaye yayikukukhanya okuqaqambileyo kwegolide okwenzeka emva kwemini eMadagascar, kwaye kwabakhanyisela i-sifakas ukuze babonakale ngathi ziingelosi ezinoboya ezikhazimla ngokhazimlo lwazo lwabucala .

Sibuyele enkampini kanye xa kwafika umphandi ngemoto ehamba ngamavili amane, kwaye sathetha-thethana nomqhubi ukuba asikhuphe ngosuku olulandelayo. Ngentsasa leyo siziphu kwaye safika eIsalo ngexesha lesidlo sasemini emva kwexesha. Ihotele apho, iRelais de la Reine, yeyomntu ongumFrentshi, owakhele kumhlaba wamatye ukuze ukwazi ukuba nesiqingatha nje sokuba kukho izakhiwo apho; ukutya bekugqwesile, kwaye igumbi litsha kwaye linomtsalane notshintsho oluhle ukusuka kwiintente zaseBheza. Isalo idume ngokuma komhlaba okusikhumbuza ii-mesas zoMzantsi-ntshona waseMelika. Imiwonyo emikhulu inikezela ngendlela yeentaba ezinamatye azele imiqolomba, apho abantu balapho bangcwaba khona abafileyo babo. Nangona inkangeleko yomhlaba yomile kakhulu kwaye iyinkqantosi, kukho amasimi erayisi ngamanye amaxesha abambelela kubumanzi beebhanki zomjelo. Ezona zityalo zidumileyo 'zonyawo lwendlovu,' ipachypodium emfutshane kwaye eneentyatyambo ezityheli, kunye nepinki iMadagascar periwinkle.

Ngosuku olulandelayo savuka kwangoko ukuze sikwazi ukukhwela-ihotele yayinamahashe amahle-kwaye sanyathela amathafa kwaye sabona imilo kumatye amakhulu aphawule ubume behlabathi: inkosi, ingonyama, i-lemur enoboya. Emva koko sahamba saya kwi indawo yokubhukuda yendalo . Uhamba unqumla kumqwebedu kwaye ukhwele kwindawo enamatye kwaye ngequbuliso wehla uye kwindunduma kwaye nantso ke, intelekelelo yomntu oqaqambileyo ovela emhlabeni ovela esibhakabhakeni, ulungile kakhulu ukuba ungakholelwa: intabalala yesundu nemithi yesundu etyebileyo, kwaye kwiziko laso ingxangxasi entle engenakuze iwele echibini elinzulu, elicacileyo elinomhlaba oyisanti. Sasonga ibhulukhwe saza sahlamba iinyawo zethu ezidiniweyo kuloo manzi apholileyo. Amaxesha ambalwa kuphela apho ndibone into eyonwabisa ngokupheleleyo emehlweni.

Emva koko saqhubela eRanomafana, eyona paki yamahlathi ithandwayo, apho safika ilanga libalele. Ipaki ineentaba kakhulu, ngenxa yoko uchitha lonke ixesha unyuka usihla kwiindlela ezinodaka, kodwa kufanelekile ukuba ungumthandi welemur. Ngosuku olunye, sabona i-lemurs ebomvu ebomvu, i-lemurs ebomvu-ebomvu, iMilne-Edwards sifakas, i-lemur emdaka wempuku, kunye neqela le-bamboo lemurs, kunye ne-mongoose enomsila kunye ne-civet. Sasinodaka kakhulu, kwaye imilenze yam kunye nomqolo bebuhlungu, kodwa ukuxinana kweentlobo kwakungaphaya kwayo nayiphi na into esasiyibonile, ngokungathi esi yayisisiphelo esinempumelelo sendalo-ukutya okuthandwa zizilwanyana konke sekulungile kule ndawo ifumileyo thambeka.

Emva kobusuku obubini eRanomafana, sahamba kwiindawo ezisemaphandleni, uhlobo lokuhlala ixesha elide kwiposikhadi, saza safika eAmbositra, edume ngokuhamba ngamaplanga. Ukubuyela eTana, saya kwitheko elimnandi lesidlo sangokuhlwa kwaye satya ukutya okumangalisayo phantsi komfanekiso waseWinterhalter kaNapoleon III. Ilineni bezilungisiwe ukuze zifanise i-empire ye-Empire Limoges porcelain, kwaye sadibana neNgesi elivuselele isiko lempahla laseMalagasy kwaye lithengise isiqwenga kwiMetropolitan Museum; umfazi waseMadagascar osebenzele iUN kwiHlabathi liphela; umlondolozi wase-Australia; kunye neemagnates ezimbalwa zeshishini. Ndacinga ngo-Alison Richard no-Russ Mittermeier, bebuya rhoqo ngokuchasene nobunzima, ndabuza enye yeendwendwe ukuba ingaba ikhethe ukuhlala eMadagascar na ngamathuba oshishino. Wazolula izandla wathi, 'Ekhaya, bendimbulela uThixo ngezinto ngalo lonke ixesha. Apha ndiye ndafunda ukubulela uThixo suku ngalunye ngokwalo. ' Amehlo akhe aqhwanyazayo. Ngeli xesha, uthandane ne-lemurs kunye nembonakalo yomhlaba. Eli linyathelo lokuqala. Ngalo lonke ixesha ubuya, esi siqithi siza kuphosa esinye isigqubuthelo kumdaniso waso wokulukuhla. Nje ukuba uthandane, awunakucinga ngokucinga ngokushiya. Uyabona — kwaye ndihambile — yonke into elapha iyakuxelela: le yeyona ndawo intle ehlabathini. '

U-Andrew Solomon ngumhleli onegalelo ku-T + L.

Nini ukuya

Amaqondo obushushu emini asusela kuma-50 asezantsi ukuya phakathi kwiminyaka yama-80 kuwo wonke unyaka; thintela ixesha lemvula, eliqala ngoJanuwari ukuya ngoMatshi.

Indlela yokufika apho

I-Air France ineenqwelo moya zokudibanisa ngeParis. I-T + L icebisa ngokuqesha inkonzo yesikhokelo (jonga ngezantsi) ukulungiselela ukuhamba komhlaba.

konke

IiVisa ziyafuneka; Nxibelelana noMzi wommeli waseMadagascar. 202/265-5525.

Umsebenzi woKhenketho

Hlola, Inc.

Ngama-888 / 596-6377; ivakaty.net ; ukhenketho lweeveki ezimbini ukusuka kwi- $ 5,000 kumntu ngamnye.

Ukuhlala phi nokutya

Anjajavy Ihotele

Ifumaneka entliziyweni yommandla waseMenabe Sakalava, malunga neekhilomitha ezingama-90 kumantla eMajunga. I-33-1 / 44-69-15-00 (iofisi yokubhuka eParis); anjajavy.com ; Ukuphindaphindwa kobusuku obuthathu ukusuka kwi- $ 1,661, kubandakanya ukuhanjiswa kwendiza yabucala.

Ummandla weFontenay

202 Antsiranana, Joffreville; 261-33 / 113-4581; lefontenay-madagascar.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi- $ 238.

Ukudluliswa kukaKumkanikazi

URanohira, Isalo; 261-20 / 223-3623; iphindwe kabini kwiidola ezili-100.

Komba olungileyo

UMzantsi Nosy Komba; 261-33 / 148-2320; tsarakomba.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi- $ 238.

Indawo yokuhlala yamahlathi iVakôna

Iimbono zepanoramic. Kufuphi naseAndasibe; 261-20 / 222-1394; ihotele-vakona.com ; iphindwe kabini kwi-154.

Iipaki zeSizwe

Imikhombandlela ngqo eya iipaki zesizwe zibonelelwa ngcono ziiofisi zokhenketho eMadagascar. Iinkonzo zesikhokelo esithetha isiNgesi ziyafumaneka kuzo zonke iipaki, kwaye kucetyiswa ngamandla kubatyeleli bokuqala.

Indawo yokuGcina iAnalamazaotra

Kufuphi naseAndasibe

Isalo National Park

Kufuphi nelali yaseRanohira.

IMantadia National Park

Kufuphi naseAndasibe.

Ipaki yeSizwe yeAmber Mountain

Umzantsi-mpuma weJoffreville.

IPaki yeSizwe iRanomafana

Ngaphandle kwe-Ambodiamontana, idolophu eseNtshona yeRanomafana.

Isiseko seNdalo esingqongileyo

UTany Meva

Isizwe esingenzi nzuzo esisekwe eluntwini esisebenza ukukhusela intlango yaseMadagascar. ngobani.org.mg .