Kusebusuku eKyoto, kwaye ndindedwa egumbini lam eYoshi-ima ryokan , Ndihleli ndinqamleze i-tatami, ngenxa yesiphu, ulusu lwam lusakhazimla kukuhlamba okushushu. Ndijonge ngaphandle kwilitye elinqabileyo legadi, apho uqalo, luvuselelwe ngumoya, lukhazimla. Kunkqonkqozwa emnyango. Kungena isicakakazi, sigobile, nebhokisi entle ye-lacquer, ezele izidlo ezimnandi zonyaka ezinje ngeetapile zentaba, ezikroliweyo ezimile okwamagqabi; iinyanda zamakhowa; kunye namantongomane e-ginkgo. Ndithatha izinti zam zokutya, kodwa andingxami: Ndiyazi ngamava ukuba oku kuchaziwe kaiseki isidlo sangokuhlwa siya kuqhubeka kangangeeyure, kuhambo olukhangeleka ngathi lungenasiphelo lwezifundo.
Ukuqala kwam ukutyelela iJapan ngaphezulu kweminyaka engama-20 eyadlulayo, ndaziyeka zonke izinto zaseNtshona ndaza ndahlala kuphela ryokan . Ukusuka eSendai ukuya eNagasaki, ndanxiba yukata iingubo ezinde, ezazikrola kwimisongo ye-calligraphy engenakulinganiswa, kwaye zazilala kwi-futons nakwi-pillow ye-buckwheat. Ndandihlangabezana neJapan yokwenyani.
Okanye ubuncinci iJapan yemveli. Ryokan yavela ngexesha leNara (710-784), xa iimonki zakha izindlu zokuphumla zasimahla kwilizwe liphela ukulungiselela abahambi. Uninzi lwenkulungwane yama-20, iindwendwe zazingenandlela yimbi ngaphandle kokuhlala kuzo, ngenxa yokunqongophala kweehotele zaseNtshona (ngo-1965, zazimalunga nama-260). Ryokan zii-inns zelizwe laseJapan: amaziko asondeleyo, ngesiqhelo ngesidlo sakusasa kunye nesidlo sangokuhlwa esibanzi. Kutshanje nje kumashumi ambalwa eminyaka eyadlulayo, kwakungeyonto ingaqhelekanga, ngakumbi kwimimandla yasemaphandleni, ukuba babelane ngamagumbi nabantu ongabaziyo. Ukuba bucala kwakungeyondlela onokukhetha kuyo: abahluli begumbi babebhitye beva ukuba uyaweva onke amarhoqorhoqo; iibhafu zazihlangene. Ngexesha lasehlotyeni elinomphunga, wonke umntu wayelala evule iingcango kunye neefestile zivulelekile kubetha impepho.
Kutshanje, nangona kunjalo, ryokan Abanini bazo bebesebenzisa isithethe esihlonitshwe lixesha-hleze baphele beshishina. Utshintsho kwindlela yokuphila phakathi kwamaJapan kunye nokhuphiswano kwiihotele zamanye amazwe kukhokelele ekwehleni kwinani le ryokan , ukwehla ukusuka kuma-80,000 ngo-1988 ukuya ngaphantsi kwama-60,000 ngowama-2005. Ke, ukwenza iirhafu zikhuphisane ngakumbi, ezinye zinika iindwendwe ithuba lokutya. Abanye benza konke okusemandleni abo ukulungiselela abantu bamanye amazwe abathi, ngeentsuku zakudala, babesenkathazweni enkulu: babengaluthethi ulwimi; bahamba ngetatami ngezihlangu zabo; kunye nesepha esetyenzisiweyo ngaphakathi kwindawo yokuhlambela. Iqela lama-30 ryokan bayile i ryokan Ukuqokelelwa kwezentengiso ngokwazo njengee-boutique inns, kunye ne-designer flourish, iinkcukacha zokwakha, kwaye, ewe, ukuthembeka kwenkcubeko.
Inkqubo ye- ryokan Isixeko saseKyoto, isixeko esasiyikomkhulu, indawo edumileyo yabakhenkethi, ziphakathi kwezokuqala ukuba zisungule ubuchule bala maxesha. Abasebenzi abathetha isiNgesi kunye nezidlo zasekuseni ezinesimbo saseNtshona ngoku ziyafumaneka nakwisixeko esidumileyo iHiiragiya kunye neTawaraya ryokan -Ezimbini iinkulungwane ubudala kwaye zidume ngobuhle bazo obucokisekileyo, ingqalelo kwiinkcukacha, kunye noluhlu lweendwendwe olubandakanya ubukhosi kunye neenkwenkwezi zaseHollywood.
E-Yoshi-ima, isakhiwo esihle somthi senkulungwane ye-19 kwisithili saseGion, onke amagumbi aneengcango zokutshixa, izindlu zangasese zabucala, kunye neebhafu ezincinci zabucala (ukuzisonga kum kwakufuna ubhetyebhetye beyoga). Okwangoku ndathi xa ndivula umnyango wangaphambili, ndaqokelelwa kwischools sabasetyhini abanxibe i-kimono kwaye ndaholwa phantsi ngendledlana emxinwa ukuya kwigumbi eliphangaleleyo. Ndanikwa incwadana enemifanekiso yesiNgesi eyayigubungela zonke iinkalo zobomi babahambi, ukusuka ekuhlambeni ukuya kwimikhwa yezihlangu. Kukho neengcali zasemzini ekutsaleni umnxeba, uMnu Kanda onomdla ohlekisayo, owazazisa ngayo nezicengcelezo nge & apos; panda, & apos; Kwaye ngubani onomdla wokusebenza njengesikhokelo sam, itoliki yam, nokusombulula iingxaki.
Abaphambukeli ngoku bangaphezulu kwesithathu seendwendwe. Epasejini ngorhatya, ndangqubana nabafazi abathathu baseSeattle ababebuya ekuboneni, bethatha iibhegi zokuthatha i-Starbucks. Babengenakonwaba ngakumbi nge zabo ryokan amava, batsho, behlutha iileta zabo, kodwa babediniwe ziikomityi ezingapheliyo zeti eluhlaza. Ndijonge ii-latte zazo, ndihlekisiwe yindlela udibaniso lwehlabathi olwenzile ngayo ukungena kule ndawo indala yehlabathi.
Nokuba kuphandle emaphandleni, utshintsho luyaqhubeka. Ukungena kwintlambo enzulu yeNtaba yaseKiso ngaphandle kweTsumago, uHanaya waqala ubomi njenge umayado , kuhlala abantu namahashe — phantsi kophahla olunye! UIsomura Isamu, uHanaya oneminyaka engama-72 ubudala ongumnini wangoku, sisizukulwana sesithoba sosapho oluqhuba indlu yabahambi. Kwiminyaka ye-60, xa izakhiwo zakudala zikaTsumago zabuyiselwa ngocoselelo kwaye idolophu yavuselelwa njengomtsalane wase-Old Japan, uHanaya waphinda wavula emva kweminyaka engamashumi eminyaka. Bekuxakeke kakhulu kangangokuba abahambi bahlala bephindaphinda kabini, ukhumbula u-Isomura. Abantu bathande amagumbi okwabelana. Badibana nabantu abangabaziyo kwaye baba nezincoko ezinomdla. '
Yonke into itshintshile ngokuvulwa kwayo-ngaphandle kwemizamo yendawo yokumisa-yehotele enamagumbi angama-300 kunye ne-spa ngo-1995, eyathimba iindwendwe. Ke kwiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo, i-Isomura yakha kwakhona iHanaya ukulungiselela ukuthanda izinto. Isakhiwo esitsha asinanto yakudala, kodwa sineendonga endaweni yokutyibilika kweefusuma panels phakathi kwamagumbi, neengcango zokwenyani. 'Abantu balindele ukukhiya kule mihla, uIsomura wandixelela. Sifake izinto zokungenisa umoya, kuba iindwendwe azikho mnandi xa ulele ucango oluvulekileyo kunye neefestile. Baye babeka nemali yeTV esebenza ngqekembe kumagumbi kwaye bandise ibhafu. Ukuba uneendwendwe ezilishumi, zineemfuno ezilishumi ezahlukeneyo.
Ayizizo zonke ryokan , nangona kunjalo, iphucukile, njengoko ndafumanisa ngovuyo ndakufika eNagano, indawo elandelayo yokumisa kuhambo lwam. Idolophu, ebekwe kumazantsi eentaba zeJapan, ngoku kutsha nje yajongwa kwilizwe lonke xa yabamba iiOlimpiki zasebusika zowe-1998. Apho, ndaye ndakhangela iOyado Kinenkan, inkulungwane ubudala, isakhiwo esinemigangatho emithathu kwisitrato esingasemva esithuleyo esineevenkile zikamama no-pop kwimizuzwana embalwa yokuhamba ukusuka eTempileni yeZenkoji.
Umnini-ndawo uToru Watanabe, inkosikazi yakhe, uHarue, nonyana wabo kunye nomolokazana wabo bonke bahlala kwaye basebenza kula ndawo. Ngumsebenzi oqhekezayo xa indlu yabahambi igcwele, nto leyo enqabileyo ngoku. Ngaphambi kwale midlalo, esi sixeko esozelayo yayiluhambo lweeyure ezintathu lukaloliwe ukusuka eTokyo — ngokwaneleyo ukuba iindwendwe zazichitha ubusuku bazo. Nge-Olimpiki, nangona kunjalo, urhulumente wakha uloliwe, ukunciphisa ixesha lokuhamba ukuya kwimizuzu engama-90.
'Kwakukho malunga neendawo zokulala ezingama-40. Ngoku, zimalunga nesibhozo kuphela, wandixelela uNkosikazi Watanabe, ephethe ipleyiti yembotyi emnandi. Ukugqibelela okami , okanye inkosikazi yendlu yabahambi, wayehleli ngasemngceleni wesihlalo sakhe, ulindelwe, ndide ndithathe ukuluma ndincume ukuvuma kwam. Kuphela emva koko uya kuqhubeka: Ngale mihla, abaphambukeli kuphela kwabo banomdla kwi-Old Japan.
Nalapha, ngaphandle kwesekethe yebhasi yokhenketho, ukunyenyiswa, nangona kuncinci kangakanani, kufuneka kwenziwe. Namhlanje, i-Watanabes (enonyana ohlala e-United States) bayasitshintsha isiNgesi sabo. Amaxabiso ebefana kangangexesha elithile (iidola ezingama-31 ngaphandle kokutya; iidola ezingama-67 ngesidlo sangokuhlwa kunye nesidlo sakusasa), ivumela iindwendwe ukuba zikhethe ukutya ngaphandle kokutya. Iityhubhu zeglasi ye-fiber ye-Oyado Kinenkan kunye noomatshini abathengisayo-oqhelekileyo kwiihostele ezithobekileyo kulo lonke elaseJapan-azinakulingana nenkonzo yokuncancisa indlu yabahambi eKyoto. Kodwa imigangatho yayo yamandulo yamaplanga, ipolishiwe yaya kwisheyi, kunye nemiqadi yeplanga enzima ethe tyaba iisilingi, zizinto zaseJapan ezinyamalala ngokukhawuleza. Iza kuphila nje kuba inika umbono wobomi ongayi kububona eTokyo enganyamezelekiyo okanye eKyoto enezokhenketho.
Ayisiyiyo eyokuhlaziywa ngakumbi ryokan abanayo indawo yabo: IJapan kudala yaba yinto ehlekisayo yesiko kunye nokuyila. I-Sumo kunye ne-baseball, u-Sony no-Kabuki. Akukho lizwe libonakala linobuchule ngakumbi ekufumaneni iimpembelelo zenkcubeko ngelixa ubambe isazisi. Ngokomntu, ndiyathemba ukuba abayi kulungelelanisa kakhulu. Ndingayifumana i-latte phantse naphi na emhlabeni, ke ke & ampos; ndiyabulela ngasese kuyo ryokan abanini ngokubambelela kumgaqo-nkqubo we-Intanethi. Nditsho nasemva kwamashumi eminyaka ndihamba apha, ndisakuthanda ukushiya izihlangu zam emnyango kwaye nezicakakazi ezinxibe i-kimono zixabana ngam. Kwaye akukho nto inyangayo njengokuntywila ngorhatya kwindawo yokuhlambela eshushu, kulandele ukulunga kunye nokuzonwabisa kaiseki isidlo. Ukufikelela kwi-imeyile, kugwetyelwe.
UAlan Brown ngowama Ukuhamba + Ukuzonwabisa igalelo lomhleli.