Andizange ndibekho emazantsi eMason-Dixon Line. Ewe, ngaphandle kwale ndlela inye wonke umntu anayo: bendikhe ndaya e-D.C.uRyan-indoda emhlophe ende yaseTennessee endandiyitshatile kwiiveki ezimbalwa ezidlulileyo eNew York -yakhawuleza ukubonisa ukuba i-D.C ayisiyiyo eMzantsi. Yayiyintoni ke ngoko into eyayichaza le ndlela yothando yaseMelika-yahluke kangaka ngokwenkcubeko, kodwa ke yangumxube womphefumlo weli lizwe? Ayisiyojografi, ngokuqinisekileyo. Hayi ubukho beChick-fil-A; Kwakukho enye yezo zikufutshane neTimes Square. Imbali yayo edibeneyo? Umke nogquthe ? Andiqinisekanga ukuba ndiyazi.

Into ebendiyazi kukuba xa inqwelomoya ithe chu ukuya ngaseCharlotte, eMantla Carolina, kwaye ndabona umbono womhlaba obomvu, ndaziva ndisiba yinto enamandla, enomdla, kwaye endiyaziyo. Umgca ovela kwisincoko sikaJames Baldwin ungene engqondweni yam: Indawo esemaZantsi — imithi, ukuthula, ubushushu bolwelo, kunye nenyaniso yokuba umntu uhlala ebonakala ehamba imigama emide ....

ECharlotte ndatshintsha iinqwelomoya zaseNashville, apho ndandihlangana khona noRyan. Kwakukho apho sasiza kuqala khona Uhambo lwendlela oko kungasithatha siye kwilizwe lakhe kwaye sigqibe e-Asheville, North Carolina. Endleleni, kuya kubakho ukuphambuka okwamkelekileyo: iiNtaba zoMsi, iDollywood, ubunewunewu beRustic yeFama yaseBlackberry. Kodwa kuya kubakho umsonto wento yobuqu. Kwi Chattanooga , Ndandiqala ukudibana nomama kaRyan. Kungekudala uMzantsi uza kuyeka ukubangumboniso, kwaye ube yinto yokwenene. URyan, nangona enokuthi aphulukane nesimbo sakhe, ungoMazantsi njenge okra eqhotsiweyo. UMzantsi wawungeyondawo nje yokhenketho; bekungcono okanye kubi, ngoku iyinxalenye yobomi bam. Imephu nguHaisam Hussein

Usuku 1

Ndafika eNashville, eBuckle yeBible Belt. Njengokuba sihamba sisuka kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya, kuyo yonke indawo kukho iicawa noohola bendlela, kwaye okomzuzwana ndikhunjuzwa ngomnye umhlaba wokholo, isiqingatha sehlabathi kude — iSaudi Arabia. Kwakukho kwaleyo nkolo unokuthi uyizalise ngokulula. Ukuba ungumthengisi weetekesi, utshilo uRyan, awunanto ngaphandle kwecawa. Umbono wechibi kwiFama yaseBlackberry, elele kumda weGreat National smoke Mountains. Squire Fox

Kodwa ngokuthe ngcembe, phuma ngokuphuma, ubumdaka bawa, kwaye into entle yafika endaweni yayo: izitrato zihamba ngomculo, iibhayisikile zetheko ezizaliswe ngabakhenkethi besela ibhiya zaqala ukujikeleza, kwaye ndazi ukuba akukho nto ndiyoyikayo. Ukholo lwalunokubakho, kodwa oku kwakungeyiyo iSaudi. Kwaye eBar-B-Que ka-Edley bekukho amantombazana anemilenze emide ezimfutshane ezimbejembeje ngeembambo zehagu ukubonisa oko.

Simise ngokukhawuleza eVanderbilt, eRyan's alma mater, nakwelo khampasi yom-oki imhlophe nemagnolia, ubumnandi bam bukhula. Imozulu yayipholile kwaye intle. Ndeva umlindi wam esihla; ukuba umtsalane odumileyo waseZantsi wawungena.

I-Nashville inobuntu obahluke kakhulu, utshilo uRyan, ukundinceda ukuba ndenze intsingiselo yokuqhekeka. Idolophu yedolophu ngumdlalo wobuntu, kodwa ayisiyiyo yonke into ekhoyo. Kwaye kwakuyinyani. Umdibaniso wokudibana kwezi zitrato zixakekileyo, abakhenkethi abalupheleyo, iibhutsi zeenkomo, banokukhawuleza babe baninzi. Xa isenzeka, iindawo zokuya eMidtown, eGreen Hills (apho, ngasendleleni, akufuneki uphoswe yiGreenhouse Bar), kwaye, endiyithandayo kuzo zonke, eMpuma Nashville.

Xa ndihlala apha, le yayiyindawo ongakhange uye kuyo, watsho uRyan xa siqhuba singena eMpuma Nashville kwizitrato ezazisithi, ngamanye amaxesha, zive ngathi azisebenzi. Kwakukho imiqondiso ye-gentrification, kodwa indawo yayikule ndawo imnandi xa iTransip Truck, ivenkile ethengisa ukutya apho iipesenti ezingama-93 zemveliso zizinto eziphilayo, zinokuhlala kunye ne-3 Crow Bar, apho iziselo zazinexabiso eliphantsi kwaye isihlwele sasirhabaxa. . (L) Amahlamvu awela ngaphaya kweBlue Ridge Parkway kufutshane naseAsheville. (R) Isitya se-brisket e-Edley's Bar-B-Que. Squire Fox

Ngaba uyakwazi ukutshaya apha? Ndibuze kumfazi o-blond kwi-aquamarine ejonge ibha.

Ewe, watsho. Umsi 'em ukuba ufumene.

Ndabuya neziselo ndaza ndafumana uRyan ethe nca ecaleni kwamaxesha amade-enye inamagriza amakhulu, kwi-bandanna emnyama nakwizibuko zelanga.

Wow, watsho uRyan. Ukusela nomyeni wam kwindawo yokuntywila e-East Nashville. Akukho nxalenye yayo endakha ndayicinga! (L) I-Musing kwi-Beet cocktail kwi-Rumors East, indawo yokutyela kunye ne-cocktail e-East Nashville .. (R): Igadi kwiRumors East. Squire Fox

Siyicwangcisile indlela yethu ubusuku bonke. Umoya wakhula unzima. Kumyezo webar obizwa ngokuba ziiRumors East, isiseko se-gentrification, umntu othile wandikhuphela intlawulo yesiqhamo kwintombi yomthonyama uMiley Cyrus: weza njengoMbhola weMelon. Kwafuneka ndiyisele ngokukhawuleza, kuba sasihleli ngaphandle, kwaye kwaqala ukuna.

Usuku 2

UMtyholi ubetha umfazi wakhe, watsho uRyan kwi-I-24. Kuyacaca ukuba abantu apha ngezantsi bayichaza njani imvula yelanga esasihamba ngayo kwindlela eya eChattanooga, kwiiyure ezimbini. Endaweni ethile kufutshane neMontagag, ubungqongqo buye endaweni yokuthotywa kwempuma yeTennessee, kwaye iiSmokies zaqala ukuziva zisondele. Ngequbuliso uRyan wabetha izandla zakhe kwivili kwaye wathetha kathathu.

Yintoni ingxaki?

Impazamo enjalo rookie!

Intoni?

Wayelibele ukuba kanye ngaphandle kweChattanooga siza kuwela umda wexesha kwaye siphinde sibuyele kwiXesha eliMiselweyo laseMpuma. Oko kwakuthetha ukuba ngoku sizakufika emva kweyure epheleleyo kwintlanganiso yam yokuqala noNksk. Davis, umama kaRyan. Besele sinovalo. Njengabemi abaninzi base Mzantsi, UNksk. Davis wayengahlengahlengisanga ngokupheleleyo kwisigqibo seNkundla ePhakamileyo sokuxhasa ilungelo lethu lokutshata. Isidlo sasemini sasilungiswe kunye nobunzima, kwaye ngoku sasishiywe lixesha kwaye siza kuphulukana nokubhukisha kwethu. KwakungeCawa, kwaye indawo yokutyela — iTupelo Honey Café — yayingenanto kwade kwabetha u-2: 15 emva kwemini. Yonke enye into yayivaliwe. Kungenxa yokuba, uRyan uthe, ukuba nzima ngokungeyomfuneko kubantu bakhe, bonke banobunyulu! Isaqhwithi esigqibeleleyo.

Ngaphandle kokuba kwakungekho. UMtyholi wayeka ukubetha umfazi wakhe, laphuma ilanga. Emva kweyure enye sasisendaweni yokutya yaseTupelo Honey Café- URyan, udade wabo, nomama wakhe omhle, kunye nam- sikhathaza iwayini emhlophe. UNksk. Davis ucebise i-okra eqhotsiweyo, ngokungaqhelekanga ngokwaneleyo kunye nokutya e-India, apho ndikhulele khona. Emva koko senze konke okwenziwa ngabantu basemzini xa benomntu ofanayo: sahlekisa ngoRyan. Kwaye xa imithambo-luvo yethu ihleli, sajikeleza iChattanooga, apho izitrato zazingqina ukunyuka nokuwa, kwaye siphinde sinyuke, eMzantsi: iifektri ezingasetyenziswanga ezazigqunywe ziivenkile ezintsha neehotele. I-aquarium. Emva kweminyaka yokuwohloka kwezoqoqosho, kwavakala ngathi isixeko esingaphakathi siza kancinci kancinci kwintyatyambo kwakhona. (L) Umzobo kaDolly Parton eDollywood's DreamMore Resort yakhe. (R) Igumbi lokuhlambela leDolly Suite. Squire Fox

Usuku 3

UCarol yayiligama lethu kwilizwi laseBritane kwiGPS yethu. Wayengumntwana omncinci, esebenzisa amagama anje indlela yokutyibilika iimoto zaseMelika eziluhlaza ezifana ithambeka . URyan wayemthiyile; Ndacinga ukuba unesidima esithile sebhola. Kwaye wayengekho nto ukuba akathembekanga. KuRoute 411, emva kwemizuzu engama-90 sihamba ngelona lizwe lihlwempuzekileyo esalibonayo ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, uCarol wabhengeza ukuba iBlackberry Farm ikude ngemizuzu eli-11. Akunakwenzeka! Ingenzeka njani into yokuba eli lizwe lixakekileyo liphose ubumnandi beLucullan kuloo propati ngokukhawuleza? Kodwa uCarol wayenyanisile. Indlela iphambukile, kwavela amagqabantshintshi obutofotofo: iinqwelo zegalufa kunye neeLexus zeLexus. IBlackberry Farm, njengomama wesibini osisityebi, wasisondeza esifubeni sakhe.

Kwaye iiyure ezingama-24 ezizayo wasigcina apho. Iingcali ezinamava atshintshiweyo zibeke umsebenzi woku-ayina amaqhina emqolo wethu; abantwana beekholeji abanamehlo abomvu basizisela iiFashoni zeNdala; kwaye ngobo busuku satya phantsi kweekhandlela zentsimbi ebunjiweyo kubuhle beBarn, indawo yokutyela entle yehotele. UFederico, owayeze kuthi edlula e-Itali nase-Buenos Aires, wasizisela ukutya okulula okwakwenzekile izinto ezintle: iqanda lefama elithosiweyo, bathi, behleli betyebile ebhedini ye-watercress, ikonferensi yegalikhi, ioyile yesilili, kunye nokuqhekeka kwenkukhu . Emva koko, umqhubi onxibe iyunifomu wasibuyisela kwigumbi lethu lobumnyama. Kwidesika, izibane zasemazulwini zatyhutyha umbala omnyama wamagqabi njengeokhestra yee-cicadas zenza i-atonal symphony yazo.

Ekuseni, isiqithi eside, esincinci sefu sasilele phezu kwentlambo. Kwakukho isibhakabhaka esiluhlaza ngaphezulu. Sishiye ifama iBlackberry emva kwesidlo sasemini esikhulu se-brisket kunye nelemonade. Ngaphantsi kweyure kude, ukuya ku-Route 321, isifuba esaneleyo nangaphezulu kweFama yeBlackberry elindelweyo: besisiya eDollywood!

Usuku 4

URyan wayehlala ecacile: U-Elvis ngukumkani wethu, uDolly Parton ukumkanikazi wethu. Siye sade saphupha ukuba uya kuqhuba umtshato wethu. Njengokuba sasingena kwikomkhulu lakhe ePigeon Forge — idolophu yeemotel eyayibonakala ikhona ubukhulu becala ngokonwaba kwakhe — sahlaselwa macala onke ngamabali obumnandi bakhe. Wakhulela kwiiSmokies, kwaye uyinto yonke kuye wonke umntu olapho: uMadonna ozinikeleyo, ongenamntwana othembekileyo, iqhawekazi lamalungelo esini, umkhuseli wokhozi olunempandla, inkosi ephambili yeAppalachia, imvumi, umdlali weqonga, umbono ... kwaye ngoku , ihotele. (L) Chattanooga's IWalnut Street Bridge. (R) UJohn Hawkinson, oqhuba inkqubo yamahashe kwiFama yaseBlackberry. Squire Fox

Ndiyithandile ipaki yomxholo waseDollywood, kodwa xa kufikwa kwiDreamMore, indawo entsha kaParton, ndinqwenela ukuba iDreamer-in-Chief yethu ibinjalo-umntu uyitsho njani-kancinci kancinci ngokwakhe, kancinci kancinci ukuqonda. Yayiphi impambano, ikhithi eyaziwayo? I-DreamMore yayiyi-Holiday Inn enee-accents zikaDolly. KwakuseDolly Parton Suite kuphela apho umntu waqonda ukuba inokuba yintoni le ndawo: ekugqibeleni zazikho iikhaphethi eziqaqambileyo ezipinki, iisofa ezimhlophe zesikhumba, ukukhanya kwezibane zebhabhathane. Ngaba akunakubakho enye ehotele? Ndibuze umntu osebenza naye osibonisile. Hayi, ucacisile: UDolly uzilungisa ngokwakhe, kwaye khange anqwenele ukushiya isitampu sakhe kuyo yonke indawo.

Ukuhlala kwethu konke, bendinemibono kaDolly. Ndimbonile kwaye ndimva kuyo yonke indawo. Ngobo busuku, emva kokuba mna noRyan sizibonakalise singamagwala nakolona hlobo lincinci lokukhwela eDollywood, kwaye satya endaweni yesonka se-sinamoni kunye nekhekhe le-funnel, ndacinga ukuba ndive i-siren indiculela: Ndizakuba lusana lwakho ngobu busuku. Ngaba yayinguDolly, wasibeka phezu kwesandi sabantwana betshiza echibini lokuqubha? Hayi ayilunganga kwakhona. YayinguNorah Jones.

Usuku 5

Sasisondele kakhulu esiphelweni. Njengoko sihamba sihamba nge-I-40 empuma, ndiziva ngathi kukho into ebalulekileyo ephelayo. Ungandivi kakubi: I-Asheville, engaphantsi kweeyure ezimbini ukusuka eDollywood, iyamangalisa. Ingekuba into engaqhelekanga, engenagama yayitshintshwa yinto eqheleke ngakumbi. Kwakukho iiflegi zomthandazo waseTibet ezitalatweni, kunye nokutshintshiselana ngeencwadi; U-Luke, umncedisi womphathi e-Hill House Bed & Breakfast Breakfast, apho sasihlala khona, wathetha ngobugcisa kunye nobugcisa.

Ngokuqinisekileyo, iingubo ze-Old South zahlala: i-myrtle ye-crape yayidubula; Kwivenkile yewayini, indoda eyayinxibe umnqwazi wengca yacula iLouisana Fairy Tale. Ukusuka eluphahleni lwendonga ye-snazzy ebizwa ngokuba yiLounge Lounge, amafu abonakala eqaqambile esibhakabhakeni esiluhlaza. Bendizele kukungaqondi kokulahleka.

Yintoni eyenza umzantsi wase Mzantsi akukho lula ukuyithetha, kodwa umfanekiso uza engqondweni. Ngumakhulu kaRyan oneminyaka engama-87, uLira, osebenza egadini yakhe. Wayetyhala ikiriva njengoko sasidlula; phantsi komnqwazi wefloppy, ubuso bakhe babudlamkile. Kwakukho into eqinileyo malunga naye, engenakuqhekeka, kodwa njengowesifazana ngandlela thile. Ndifuna ukubulisa, kodwa uRyan wathi uza kugwetyelwa ukudibana nam kwimeko enjalo. Lowo ngumzantsi, ndacinga: kunzima njengezikhonkwane, ukanti ufakwe kubusi.

Ndikhuphe i-cocktail efakwe nge-basil, kwaye yandibuyisela eluphahleni apho bendihleli khona. Ndizive ngathi ndikhe ndawabona kancinci umzantsi, emva koko ndalahleka. Ingoma endala yahamba entlokweni yam: into malunga nesahluko esigama linguViril Caine. Thatha nje into oyifunayo kwaye ubashiye abanye, kodwa ngekhe bathathe eyona ilungileyo.

Uhambo-lwendlela yokukhohlisa iphepha

Usuku 1 Nashville

I-Bar-B-Que kaEdley Ifanelekile indumasi yebhakhwe edumileyo-hayi
ukuphoswa. emvnewd.com ; ukungena $ 6- $ 23 .

Ibha yeGreenhouse Ibha eyahlukileyo ngokupheleleyo kwindawo yeGreen Hills. sxwebhadebok.com .

Amarhe aseMpuma Uku-odola iicocktails zobugcisa kule bar inesitayile ekuphuculeni i-East Nashville. rumourseast.com .

Ngama-404 Ivenkile yokutyela ebabazekayo edolophini. thegwetyana.com ; iphindwe kabini kwiidola ezingama-305 .

I-3 Crow Bar Ibha yokuntywila yase-Classic East Nashville. 3crowbar.com .

Usuku 2 Chattanooga

IClumpies Ice Cream Co. Funa isebe laseChattanooga lokukhumbula kakuhle ikhonkco lomkhenkce. clumpies.com .

Clyde kwi-Main Ukupheka okunzima okusemazantsi, kubandakanya i-artery-clogging specialties njenge bacon ebekiweyo. lvbhebhs.com ; ukungena $ 9- $ 24 .

Funda iNdlu Imbali, uphawu lwehotele edolophini kufutshane nje kukhetho. khankcotelweb.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-129 yeedola .

Tupelo Honey Café Indawo yokutyela esemaZantsi enomphefumlo ekhonza ulonwabo lwengingqi njenge okra ethosiweyo kunye negrits. tupelohoneycafe.com ; ukungena $ 8- $ 26.

Usuku lwe-3 lweNtaba eziMsi

Ifama yeBlackberry Le ndawo ikhethiweyo kufutshane neNtaba zoMsi yaziwa ngokutya kwayo okugqibeleleyo ekhaya. benyamono.com ; Iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-845 yeedola, kubandakanya ukutya.

Usuku 4 lwePigeon Forge

Dollywood Ipaki yolonwabo eyonwabisayo yeDolly Parton ePigeon Forge inezinto ezoyikisayo ezikhweleyo kunye nokugxininisa okumangalisayo kwimbali nenkcubeko. dollywood.com .

Irizothi yeDreamMore Resort yaseDollywood Okwangoku, injongo yehotele eyakhelwe iindwendwe eDollywood. dollywood.com/resort ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-159 yeedola .

Usuku 5 Asheville

Indlu yokulala & nesidlo sakusasa e-Hill House Uyakufumana ukuhonjiswa kwe-idiosyncratic kunye nesidlo sakusasa kwinqanaba lokuqala ekunikezelweni kule B&B. imbonline.com ; iphindwe kabini isuka kwi-175 yeedola.

Indawo yokuHlala Ii-cocktails ezintle, iibhiya zalapha kunye neepleyiti ezincinci
eluphahleni olukhulu. socououngeasheville.com .

Amathambo ali-12 aMsi Indawo ye-barbecue engenakuthelekiswa nanto kwiSithili soBugcisa boMlambo i-Asheville. 12bones.com ; ngenisa i- $ 5- $ 22.