Yonke imihla, abantu abali-164 bayahamba UAustin, eTexas , isixeko esikhula ngokukhawuleza kwisizwe sesibini. Ngentsasa elandelayo, bonke baya emgceni eFranklin BBQ.

Nazi njalo Abantu abali-164 bakulayini waseFranklin BBQ; Ndiyarhana ukuba kungakho ummiselo wesixeko ofuna oku. Oko u-Aaron Franklin enconywa ngokusesikweni njengeyona ndawo ingcono yomgodi ka-Austin yeyona nto inomtsalane kumntu oneminyaka engama-36 ubudala owayengumdlali we-punk-drummer owakhubeka kubugcisa. Ndandingumntu osela utywala kwaye ndiqengqeleka, ndidlala umculo ngokusisigxina, utshilo. Ndinamava e-barbecue zero de ndafika kwiminyaka yamashumi amabini. Xa ndipheka isifuba sam sokuqala, eneneni kuye kwafuneka ndikhangele 'indlela yokupheka isifuba' kwi-intanethi.

Kungekudala uFranklin wafunda ngokwaneleyo ukuba aqale ukuthengisa ukutya kwakhe ngaphandle kwetreyila emiswe yi-I-35. Ilivo lakhe lakhula ngokukhawuleza, ecaleni kwesixeko ngokwaso. Kwiminyaka emithandathu kamva, usebenza ngaphandle kwesakhiwo esinemigangatho emibini, apho abantu abatshayayo abasebenza emva kwe-oki (abanye babizwa ngokuba ngama-hardcore band) bekhupha itoni yenyama etshayiweyo ngosuku. Esenokwanela ukondla wonke umntu emgceni.

Okukhona nditya i-barbeque kaFranklin-i-brisket yakhe, iimbambo zakhe, izixhumanisi zakhe ezityhutyha ijusi-kokukhona ndiqinisekile ukuba ungumlumbi womlumbi othumele ukusisindisa kukutya kwethu okukruqulayo eMhlabeni. Yintoni imfihlo? Kukho izinto eziguquguqukayo ezizigidi kwizoso, kwaye zonke zinomdla, utshilo. Inye ibalasele: ngokungafaniyo nabafana abaninzi besikolo esidala, uFranklin unomdla wokufumana. Akukho mntu wayeyikhathalele ngokwesiko lenyama-yayiyeyenkampani, inyama yenkomo ebhokisini. UFranklin uthenga isifuba sakhe kwiifama zaseCreekstone, ngaphezulu kwe- $ 4 iponti.

U-Austin ngokuqinisekileyo uyafana ne-barbeque, kodwa kude kube mva nje, bekukho iindawo ezimbalwa ezimeleyo esixekweni, utshilo uMatthew Odam, umgxeki werestyu UAustin waseMelika-waseMelika . Ukuze uyenze ngokufanelekileyo, uthi, kwafuneka uqhube ngaphandle kwedolophu-ukuya kwiindawo zasemaphandleni ezifana neLockhart, kwikhaya lobungcwele bomsila we-Black's, Smitty's, kunye neKreuz Market. (IBlack's, eyona intle kwezi zintathu, ekugqibeleni yavula indawo yase-Austin ukuwa okokugqibela.)

Kodwa ngoku unogada omtsha weBBQ ufikile edolophini, ekwabelana ngoFranklin ngokujonga iinkcukacha kunye nentliziyo yemvukelo. Ngama-90 eMicklethwait Craft Meats, i-ramshackle camper ekhonza kakhulu inyama yehagu kunye ne-jalapeño-cheese grits, i-stereo ithanda iDinosaur Jr. ngaphezulu kweJunior Walker. KwiLa Barbecue, isandi somkhondo siholwa ngokuKhokelwa yiVoices, kunye nabaphikisi be-brisket abanyibilikisiweyo abachasene ne-Franklin's eyona idolophu. Intandokazi kaFranklin? Itraki yeValentina's Tex Mex BBQ, apho iitortilla ezenziwe ngezandla zizaliswa ngebrisket kunye necarnitas. Andiyityi kakhulu inyama yam, uyavuma. Kodwa ndoda, iValentina's irad.

Ndikhankanya uFranklin kunye neqela lakhe ngaphambili kuba i-barbecue's trajectory ephezulu iyahambelana nokutya kwase-Austin ngokubanzi. Masijongane nayo, nokuba yiminyaka emithandathu okanye esixhenxe eyadlulayo, umbono wokuhamba apha kuphela kwiindawo zokutyela ezinkulu ngewube, ewe, uyinqaba (ukuboleka igama kwincwadi yemidlalo ka-Austin). Ngokuqinisekileyo, zazininzi iindawo zokubulala, kwaye zonke iintlobo zeelori zokutya zilungiselela abantu abanxilileyo ngaphandle kwale miqobo. Kodwa indawo yokutyela? Hayi okuninzi.

Nditsho noPaul Qui, iqhawe lasekhaya lajika Umpheki ophezulu ophumeleleyo, owenze kangangoko nabani na ukuphakamisa iprofayili yedolophu yakhe kunye nobukhosi bakhe bokutya-ukutya kunye nendawo yokutyela eQui, uyavuma ukuba uAustin wayengenguye ukhetho lwakhe lokuqala. Icebo lam yayikukugcina imali ndize ndifudukele eNew York, 'kodwa ke ndaqala ukubona amandla ka-Austin, uthando lwabantu endandisebenza nabo-kwaye ngesiquphe ingqondo yam yayitshintshile. Ndichitha umsebenzi wam uphela apha? Ndidibene nabapheki kunye nabalondolozi endibathandayo kunokuba bendinokuba njalo ukuba bendifudukile.

U-Qui, okhulele eHouston, wafika e-Austin ngo-2003, kanye njengokuba indibaniselwano egqibeleleyo yeerhafu eziphantsi, inani lolutsha, kunye nemali ekhulileyo evela kumzi mveliso weetekhnoloji evelayo yayibeka isiseko somtshangatshangiso ophezulu, oqhutywa ngumpheki iivenkile zokutyela. Lowo yayingunyaka wokuqala kwimbali yeNew Austin Dining, xa uTyson Cole wavula ubuvulindlela bakhe u-Uchi, apho uQi aqala khona umsebenzi wakhe. Kwangelo xesha, isixeko sasifumana i-buzz kunye nodumo lwamazwe aphesheya oluvela eMzantsi nge-Mzantsi-ntshona kunye neziganeko zayo eziqhubeka zisanda. Kwaye impendulo ka-Austin yokuphila ayenzakalisanga nokuba. Apho kwakukhe kwaba ngumceli mngeni ekufumaneni abasebenzi abakulungeleyo ukufudukela apha, uQui uthi, ngoku uAustin akasenguye isabelo sentsimi kwaye utsala italente yasekhitshini kuyo yonke indawo, kanye njengoko umculo wayo utsala abadlali. Kwaye bakulungele ukubeka phantsi iingcambu.

Kuyanceda ukuba u-Austin akasenguye isiqithi esingumzekeliso kulwandle lwaseTexas: kuyo, kodwa hayi ngayo, njengomgca omdala obanjiweyo. Ngokwenkcubeko kunye nezopolitiko ezinokuziva ngathi zinjalo, kodwa kwezolimo kunye neculinary, libali elahlukileyo. Abapheki base-Austin bathembele ngakumbi kwiifama zommandla nakukutya, besebenzisana nentsebenziswano entsha namafama aseTexan akhasayo. Ngenxa yaloo mva nasemva, kubekho uphuculo olukhulu kumgangatho wezithako, utshilo uBryce Gilmore, umpheki ongumnini weeAustin ezimbini ezimileyo, iBarley Swine kunye neOdd Duck. Abalimi basimamele, kwaye bavulelekile ngakumbi ukuzama izityalo ezitsha kunye nobuchule. Ukwenza okona kulungileyo, uGilmore kunye nabanye asebenza nabo baqhubela phambili ukutya okutsha, ngokuzingca ngeTexan.

Kwi-Dai Ngenxa yonyaka, umnini u-Jesse Griffiths, okhulele e-Denton, uxhomekeke kwizithako ezifunjiweyo (ubukhulu becala) kumgama we-30 yeemayile. Ndifuna ukuphonononga ukuba kuya kwenzeka ntoni ukuba sitya ngaphakathi kwezixhobo zethu, utshilo umpheki oneentloko ezinentshebe ebomvu krwe, okhangeleka njengoPaul Giamatti odlala kwiZZ Top biopic. Eminye imimandla ivelise eyayo indlela yokutya; kutheni kungenje le? Ukuba umbindi weTexas unesidlo sommandla ngokwenyani, ubuza ukuba, ingaba injani? Kwi-Griffiths's iteration, ibiya kujongeka njenge-elk tartare kunye neerillettes zenyamakazi, i-mesquite-grilled sourdough ene-tangerine-infiled lard, iso le-50-ounce eye eye yaxhonywa ngaphezulu kwepesika okanye umthi we-mesquite, i-prickly-pear sorbet, kunye noluhlu lwewayini lwe-Texan . (Phawula: iAglianico ethambileyo evela eDuchman Winery eDriftwood.) UGriffiths, umzingeli onomdla kunye nomlobi weentlanzi, naye uyayidlala indima yakhe. Ngexesha lotyelelo lwam ihagu yasendle yonke-egawulwa ngumpheki-yabhabha ngetroli yenyama ebaleka ngaphaya kwebhari. Yayibotshelelwe imela yesilarha entloko u-Julia Poplawsky, owaphula ngexesha lokurekhoda.

E-Lenoir, i-chic encinci ye-bistro esezantsi, i-Todd Duplechan's self-styled hot cuisine cuisine ilandelela amakhonkco phakathi kwe-Texas kunye neminye imimandla egcakamele ilanga njenge North North, Spain, India kunye ne-Southeast Asia. Umbono kukuphaka ukutya okufanelekileyo kwiindawo ezinesultry: lighter, spicier, izitya ezi-asidi ezicwebezelayo, ezilungiselelwe ubuncinci bebhotolo, ukhilimu kunye ne-gluten. Ekuphekeni kukaDuplechan, izithambiso ezikude ezikhawulezayo zigxeka izithako ezisandokulandwa, ukusuka kwizagwityi ezinamafutha kunye nebhotolo yamandongomane ukuya kwi-Indiya isono ngentliziyo ye-antelope kunye ne-Ethiopia IBerber . Kukupheka komxube, ngokuyimfuneko, kwenziwa ngqongqo, ukuthintela, kunye nenjongo ecacileyo yenjongo.

Ngokwenyani, elo candelo malunga neAustin njengesiqithi kulwandle lwaseTexas? Ayisoze inyani, utshilo uBen Edgerton, umnini-co-Contigo. U-Austin kuphela kwendawo elizweni apho ndinokunxiba umnqwazi wam weenkomo kwi-hipster bar kwaye ndingafumaneki okwesibini, utsho. Naphi na enye indawo? Babengandihleka kanye ngaphandle kwelunga. Inzalelwane yaseSan Antonio ichithe iminyaka emihlanu kwilizwe lentengiso eNew York ngaphambi kokuba ibuyele eAustin ukuya kuzama ithamsanqa kwiindawo zokutyela. Abahlobo bam base-East Coast bonke bathi, ‘Owu, ndiyamthanda uAustin! Kodwa ayisiyiyo iTexas ngokwenene. ’Ke kuye kwafuneka ndizilungise, utsho. Kuba iTexas yiyo kanye le nto uAustin eyiyo le nto -ingqondo yomda, olo nxibelelwano kwiinduli namathafa, iPanhandle neGulf. Awungekhe uyitshintshele e-Oregon okanye kumantla e-New York.

Ngokuqinisekileyo iContigo inokubakho apha kuphela. Ukuhamba kude kwi-suburban enclave eseManor Road, kuvakala ngathi yindawo yokufikela kwilizwe laseTexas Brush. (Eli gama kwabelwana ngalo nefama yokuzingela yosapho lakwaEdgerton, kufutshane naseCorpus Christi.) Kugutyungelwe yimisedare, kufudunyezwa ngumlilo, kuvutha izibane ezibengezelayo, iyadi yangasemva kweContigo yindawo yeqela lasezidolophini ebusuku. Ukupheka iqabane u-Andrew Wiseheart kulungela useto kwi-T-for-Texas, eneepleyiti ezincinci ezihamba zizinkulu ngokulunga, ukulunga okungaphandle (ikopi ephilisiweyo yendlu, inyama yehagu-isibindi pâté), egalelwe i-accents ephezulu, engalindelekanga . Kukho iimbotyi eziluhlaza ezikroliweyo zokudipha kwi-sambal aioli eqholiweyo; Ulwimi olugqwesileyo lolwimi lweenkomo olulinganiswe neetamatisi eziluhlaza; kunye ne-chiliarrón enothuli oludityaniswe ne-kimchi. Ukuqhekeka kweendlebe iqrrrrruuunnncnh yokuqhekeka kwengulube ingxola kakhulu uziva uphantse ukuba neentloni zokuphinda ulume.

Ngobusuku endandikuyo, u-Aaron Franklin kunye nenkosikazi yakhe babesitya kunye nentombi yabo encinci, eyonwabileyo yagcwala iipuni zemvundla yesibindi somvundla. Bahlala nje ezantsi kwendlela, kwaye bahlala apha. Uluntu lwaseAustin olunje ngokusondelelana, utshilo uEdgerton. Ngokubanzi, wonke umntu okwindawo yokutya uyaxhasana.

Ukuwa kokugqibela, uEdgerton kunye noWiseheart bavule indawo yabo yokutyela yesibini, kwindawo eyayisakuba yiposi e-East Sixth Street. UGardner kukuhamba ngokwenene: igumbi lokuzonwabisa, igalari-emhlophe eneefenitshala zom-oki ezimenyezelayo kunye nezibane zemyuziyam-konke kungcono ukujonga ukutya kuka-Wiseheart, okuqhutywa kukutya. Imenyu ayiyiyo imifuno, kodwa imifuno yinkwenkwezi, kunye nenyama edlala indima yokuxhasa njengama-umami asebenzayo. Kukho i-broccoli etshisiweyo enongwe nge-salumi efriziwe-emva koko-umgubo (aka ityuwa yehagu), okanye ikhaphetshu yekhaphetshu egalelwe i-ale emuncu, emva koko idikiwe ilangatye kwaye ikhonjwe nge-confit yedada. Ewe uGardner unayo inyama yenkomo eyomileyo, kodwa apha iphekiwe phantsi komshini Ndigqibile i-grill-kwaye i-hands-down i-steak ehle kakhulu endinayo edolophini.

Ukuqonda ngokwenyani ukuvela kokutya kuka-Austin, kuya kufuneka utyelele bobabini uTyson Cole noPaul Qui. Xa uCole evula u-Uchi kwindawo ebilahlekile yase-South Lamar Boulevard, akukho mntu wayelindele ukuba umntu oneminyaka engama-33 ubudala waseSarasota, eFlorida, abe ngomnye wabatoliki abaqinisekisiweyo baseMelika ngokutya kwaseJapan, isushi ye-sushi njengobuyatha njengoko esazi kwincwadi yemigaqo. Qho xa ndindwendwela u-Austin, ndizama ukubetha u-Uchi okanye u-spin-off, u-Uchiko ngamanye amaxesha bobabini. Ngaphezulu kwekhosi ye-10 iminyaka kunye neemenyu ezininzi ezahlukeneyo, andikaze hayi Ndothuswa sisitya esinye esitsha, indibaniselwano enye yokumangalisa, enye indibano ye-sushi-bar ebekiweyo.

Ngeli xesha eUchi yayi machi Unyango, olonwabisayo uCole xa ethelekiswa ne-Japanese nachos: i-yuca crisps ene-yellowtail etshayiweyo, ipere yase-Asiya, ii-slivers zeMarcona-almond, kunye negalikhi ibrittle. Oku kukutya kwam epleyitini, utshilo uCole. Injongo, njengangaphambili, kukuthatha i-sushi yendabuko kwaye uyinike ubume obutsha, ukudlala, kuyonwabisa. Kukho igama lolu hlobo lokutya: iiBrits zikubiza ngakumbi; UCole uthanda ukunqweneleka. Ukulangazelela kuye kwaba ngumlinganiso wesitya. Ukuba iyasebenza, unokuthelekelela ukuyidla yonke ibhokisi yayo kumdlalo webhola. Andizange ndadibana, yithi, isalmon yaseAtlantic ngeeblueberries, yuzu , kunye ne-dinosaur kale eqhotsiweyo kwindawo yokunyenyisa, kodwa ukuba ndenzile, ngokuqinisekileyo ndingayalela ibhokisi yonke, emva koko ndibuyele kwakhona ezimbini.

Ukuba uCole sisiseko seNew Austin Dining, i-Qui icacile ukuba yi-apotheosis, ngomsebenzi obonisa indlela yokuhamba ngokukhululeka kwesi sixeko. Emva kokuphumelela zombini Umpheki ophezulu kunye neBhaso likaJames Beard njengompheki olawulayo eUchiko, uQui uthathe umjikelo wasekhohlo ngo-2012 kwaye wasungula eyona ngoku ingxangxasi yedolophu yase-East Side King iilori zokutya, ekhupha ukutya oku-wacky, ukutya kwamatye ase-Asiya kwimigca engapheliyo yabathwali bobusuku . (Ezona zakutshanje kunye nezona zikhulu zenqanawa, iThailand-Kun, zikhanyisa indawo etshisayo, inciphisa umdla wokutya we-Bangkok owazalelwa umpheki wase-Thai Changthong.)

Ngo-2013, u-Qui wavula indawo yakhe yokuqala yokutyela, ebekwe kwisakhiwo esitsha esitranskriteni eku-East Sixth Street-yonke imithi evuthayo, iglasi esemgangathweni, kunye neglasi kaKeith Kreeger. Ngokwenyani iikhonsepthi ezintathu kwinto enye: igumbi lokudlela eliphambili elinikezela ngeekhosi ezisixhenxe, iseti yemenyu engama- $ 70; ibha yepatio (ebizwa ngokuba yiPulutan) ekhonza izitya ezithandekayo, ezinekhaya ezivela ePui yasePhilippines; kunye nekitikiti, itafile yokupheka yezihlalo ezine apho yena neqela lakhe bavumela ukubhabha ngokugoba ingqondo, ukungcamla okungama-20 ukuya kuma-25.

I-Qui's offbeat mash-ups ibuyela eJapan, eFrance, kumazantsi mpuma e-Asiya, naseMelika yaseMelika, ngamanye amaxesha inika iziqholo ezisemhlabeni zasePhilippines ezinje nge-mineral-tangy enegazi (ihagu-yegazi yesityu) egcwele ama-mushroom ama-maitake kunye nokutshiswa lilanga. Olunye uqaqambiso: umahluko wolwimi kulwimi lwaseThai umbungu , apho a yindoda Umlenze wedada ophilisiweyo unqunqiwe kwaye waphoswa ngeradish, ikhukhamba, imint, kunye neRed Boat fish sauce, kwaye wakhonza phezu komtshiso wethotshi weSavoy iklabishi. Emva koko kukho ithanga lenkukhu elinqumleyo elingenakunqandwa, elinopopi kunye neoyster ye-oyster kwaye lisasazeke webhotga -style shavings yomkhenkce owomileyo wolwandle. Kugqityiwe ngokufefa umbungu ityuwa (umbungu ityuwa) ... njengokuba usenza.

Emva kokuqhekeka kweminyaka emithathu ebenako, ngekhe umsole umfana ngokumba kancinane, mhlawumbi ecothisa isantya. Kodwa indawo yokutyela entsha kaQui, u-Otoko, emiselwe ukuvula kwinyanga ezayo, isenokuba lelona bhongo lakhe likhulu ngoku. Ngokuqinisekileyo lolona lusondeleyo: indawo ekhethekileyo, ye-gen-sushi den enezihlalo ezili-12 zokubala. Ukungena kwindawo ephawulwe ngokufihlakeleyo, enebali elinemigangatho yesibini kwi-South Congress Hotel esandula ukumiliselwa, ifestile, igumbi elincinci liya kugxila ngokupheleleyo kubugcisa babapheki.

U-Qui, kukubuyela ezingcanjini, ekhumbula isimbo sakhe esibi e-Uchiko. Ukuba kukho nantoni na, oku kuya kugxila ngakumbi eJapan kunale nto ndiyenzileyo ngaphambili, watsho, ecaphula iihambo zamva nje zokuya eJapan njengendawo yokuphefumlelwa. Kodwa u-Otoko akazukuba yibhari yesushi yesintu. Ndifuna ukudlala nefomathi kancinci, utsho. Ngenisa izitya ezishushu nezibandayo, udibanise i-sushi kuyo yonke indawo, yiya ngaphezulu kwicala le-kaiseki. Kwaye siya kolula ukungcamla ngokwendlela iindwendwe ezifuna ukuhlala ngayo ixesha elide. Inkonzo iya kuba omakase -style-akukho à la la mapu-nganye ikhosi ekhethiweyo, eyenziweyo, kwaye yaziswa ngabapheki ngokwabo.

Njengakwikhawuntala yompheki eQui, uOtoko uza kusebenzisa inkqubo yetikiti, ngesidlo sangokuhlwa esiqhutywa malunga ne- $ 150 ngomntu ngamnye. Oko akunakuthelekiswa neendleko zeMasa, eNew York, okanye eJiro, eTokyo, kodwa ngokuqinisekileyo kuyabiza kakhulu kunayo nayiphi na enye indawo eAustin. Inqaku lamaxabiso liya kuvumela umpheki kunye neqela lakhe ukuba basebenze nezithako ezigqityiweyo zokuphela, ekuthi, njengoko u-Qui esitsho, ayisiyiyo indleko kuphela kodwa malunga nokuhlakulela ubudlelwane obulungileyo kunye nee-sourcers. Ukwenza njalo, u-Qui ebesenza uhambo oluya kwintengiso yeentlanzi iTsukiji yaseTokyo ukuya kudibana nomthengi wakhe wokwenene kwizibuko. Umnumzana Yamamoto uqala ukusebenza ezinzulwini zobusuku, ixesha laseJapan, utshilo. Ke ntsasa nganye eAustin, umfo wam uya kufowuna abuze ukuba usiphathele ntoni.

Umbono we-luxe, ibha ye-sushi eyimfihlo yavela ku-Jesse Herman, i-Austin restauranter emva kweLa Condesa kunye ne-Sway, kunye neqabane kwi-South Congress Hotel. KuHerman, i-Qui yayilukhetho olucacileyo lokuyiqhuba. Andizange ndibone umpheki ephumeza into eyenziwa nguPaul kwiminyaka emibini nje: Umpheki ophezulu , intshebe kaJames, GQ Yeyona ndawo intsha yokutyela, utshilo. Umfo uyile ngobuqili. Kwaye ukutya kwakhe kubhenela wonke umntu-nokuba ngaba kuqhekeziwe ama-hipsters kwimivalo okanye abantu abaya kuhamba isiqingatha sehlabathi ngesidlo esikhulu.

Isibheno esibanzi, esiphakamileyo / esisezantsi sesona kanye esenza ukuba iQui-ngaphandle kwengcambu zakhe zaseManila-nge-Houston-oyena mpheki wasekhaya u-Austin kubo bonke. Ukuvela kwiitroli zokutya ze-bong-tastic ukuya kumxube ogqityiweyo wakwiiPhilippines uye kwelona xabiso lihle leSushi kungabonakala kungenakwenzeka kwidolophu efana neNew York. E-Austin, akunakwenzeka kuphela, kodwa ngokuchanekileyo ngokuchanekileyo.