Ndibe ndilele ndicime okoko i-hydrofoil isukile e-Anzio, idolophu eselunxwemeni iyure ukukhwela uloliwe ukusuka eRoma. Ngaphandle kokungxola okukhulu kwesikhephe, uLwandle lwaseTyrrhenian lwaluzolile kakhulu ukukhwela kwangqina. Ngoku ikwayari yenqanawa kunye neempondo ezincinci zandivusa ngesiqalo. Ngaba iingelosi ngokwazo-zazingxola kakhulu, zingabonakali-ukufika kwazo?

IPonza. Ndayibona ngaphandle kwefestile yam. Kukuphazanyiswa kothusayo kwawo onke loo manzi aqabileyo ahlaza okwesibhakabhaka, aneengxondorha zawo eziphakamileyo ezimhlophe kunye namatye amatye amdaka ngebala, ajikelezwe zii-stalagmites ze-soldiering ezinyuka zisuka elwandle njengento evela kuhlobo lwe-albhamu lwe-Ewe. Esi siqithi sisemagqagaleni nentaba-mlilo yayikade iyindawo yohlwaywa kanye, kumaKristu agxothiweyo ngexesha loBukhosi baseRoma, kutshanje, abachasi, abanye babo ababesithanda esi siqithi babuya njengabahlali xa urhulumente wasemva kwemfazwe wabuyela ezingqondweni kwaye wabakhulula.

Nge-Plexiglas etyebileyo kunye nokukhukhumala, esi siqithi sasijongeka singenakulinganiswa (ngaphandle kokuba uyiSpiderMan okanye ibhokhwe yasezintabeni) ukanti simema. Iithambeka zethambeka zikaPonza zazigqunywe zizidiliya ezicocekileyo kunye ne-ginestra edibeneyo, amatyholo egorse asendle akhanyiswe ngeentyatyambo ezityheli. Iinduli zazineendawo zokuhlala ezintle, ezinemigangatho emibini kunye emithathu, zipeyintwe ngemibala edliwayo yeNeapolitan.

Njengoko i-hydrofoil imile, siyayibona idolophu esezibukweni, uthotho olunqabileyo lweesplanade ezinyuka intaba, ngathi luncumo olubanzi. Izibuko elincinci lalizele zizikhephe ezinkulu, izikhephe ezibonisa ukuhamba, amaphenyane okuhamba ngesikhephe, amaphenyane anesantya esincinci, ii-inflatable ezincinci ezinama-dinky outboard motors, kwanezinye izikhephe ezibheqwayo ezibalekela isithuba-zonke ezi zikhephe, kubonakala ngathi zazithwele amatheko, ukukhwela abakhweli, ukudubula iimpondo zabo kwindawo yokulwa ekrwada. Besithenjiswe ukwamkelwa ngokufudumeleyo, kodwa oku bekuhlekisa. Umyeni wam, uBruce, wandibamba ngesandla wasineka.

Zange ndakhe ndeva ngoPonza de uMaria Romano, umfundi ophumeleleyo kwiworkshop yeentsomi endandiyifundisa kwiSikolo esitsha, kwisiXeko saseNew York, waqala ukubhala malunga nesiqithi sokuloba sokuzalwa kwakhe. Ukusuka kuMaria ndafunda ukuba uPonza wayekhe wangumnini ziintsapho ezimbalwa kuphela, kwaye nanamhlanje isagadwe ngononophelo kwimpumelelo yeCapri kunye neRiviera yaseFrance. AbakwaPonzesi bavumela ukufudumala, ngeempelaveki amaRoma kunye ne-Neapolitans ukuba bangene ngesikhephe, kwaye beza bebaninzi — abantu badumbile ukusuka kuma-3 100 ukuya kuma-20 000 ngoJulayi nango-Agasti. Kodwa abahlali banobuchule ekugcineni uninzi lwehlabathi ngaphandle. Abanini bezikhephe baseYurophu baphosa nje iankile kwaye bathambise ilanga kumanqwanqwa abo; abantu baseItali abakhenkethi barenta izindlu okanye bahlala ezindlwini zeendwendwe; kukho ukutshitshiswa kweehotele ezincinci. Kumaxesha aphezulu abakhenkethi abaneepokotho ezingekho nzulu banokuzifumana beqesha umandlalo omiselwe kwigumbi lokuhlala lasePonzesi. Bacebile okanye akunjalo, aba bantu bakrelekrele beza ePonza ukuze badade kwaye bakhwele iphenyane, baye kwi-snorkel kunye ne-scuba dive, ukuze babone ubuhle besiqithi. Bahlala kwiikhefi kwaye batya i-pastry basela iwayini kwaye bayathandana. Bathenga iimbadada ezixabisa kakhulu kunye nobucwebe obuhle bendawo kwiivenkile ezimbalwa kwaye bachitha iiyure kwiitratoria kunye neeristorante besitya ukutya kwaselwandle okuhlaziyekileyo emhlabeni. Ndazimisela ukuba ngomnye wabo.

Sifikile ngomhla wokugqibela womthendeleko waseSan Silverio, ingcwele efela ukholo kaPonza-yiyo yonke loo nto kuvuthelwa uphondo. UMaria wayewukhankanyile umthendeleko, kodwa ndandingakulungelanga ukubethwa luluntu okusibulisayo, umngcelele ogcweleyo usiya emanzini. Kwintloko yomngcelele kwakukho abantwana benxibe iimpahla ezimhlophe zokuthwala ababephethe uKristu ophilayo emnqamlezweni. Emva kwabo kwakukho iqela lendawo elihambayo, emva koko kwakukhangeleka njengabahlolokazi abangama-50 base-Italiya benxibe iilokhwe zabo zangeCawa, bevuma ingoma elusizi. Ukutsala ngasemva yayingumfanekiso oqingqiweyo kaSan Silverio ngokwakhe, kwisikhephe esincinci sasinee roses, sasithwalwa ngamagxa wamadoda ambalwa ukuya elwandle, ukusikelela ubomi babalobi.

Sobane bemi sibambe ongezantsi singathatheki kancinci yingxolo nobungangamsha. Sasiqeshe indlu encinci kwindlu yokuhlala kaMaria ka-Aunt uLinda, eCasa Vacanze Rosa Dei Venti. Xa ndacela idilesi emva kwiSixeko saseNew York, uMaria wandixelela ukuba azikho iidilesi ePonza. 'Xelela nje umqhubi weteksi ukuba uza kuya kwaLinda,' utshilo. Kodwa amazibuko azaliswe ngamanzi ngabantu baseSan Silverio kwaye ndandingazi ukuba ndingayifumana phi iteksi. Ngesiquphe kwaphuma indoda entle entle enxibe ezimhlophe izihlwele.

'Ngaba ningamaMelika?' uthe.

Ndicinga ukuba kwakucacile.

WayenguGiovanni Mazzella, umzala kaMaria, ugqirha. Ngandlel 'ithile wasifunela ikhareji, wahlawula umqhubi, wasithumela ukuba sihambe, sizihlalela sibukele imibhiyozo. Ngelixa umqhubi wethu ejikeleza izibuko, iSan Silverio kunye nephenyane lakhe elincinci baqaliswa emanzini. Ikhabhathi yethu yayihamba ngeenqanawa ezijika iinwele kunye neendlela ezibhityileyo, zisikhokele kwiitonela ezimbini eziqoshwe ngamaRoma amandulo kwisiqithi esinamatye. Kumnyama ngaphakathi kweetonela, kodwa oko akuzange kumise iintsapho ezipheleleyo ezinabantwana kwiinqwelwana nakwishumi elivisayo ngeebhayisikile ekubeni zigqithise kuthi kunye neVespas kunye neelori ezirhuqele indawo kwiindawo ezinemizila emibini. Ndabamba umphefumlo wam, ndawuyeka kuphela xa savela kwisiqwenga esinye kanye njengoko iziqhushumbisi zaqala ukuqhushumba phezu kwamanzi ekupheleni kwezibuko. Ngelo xesha, ndaqonda ukuba uFellini wayengenguye umcabango, wayengumbhali.

Ukuqhuba kuthathe imizuzu esixhenxe. Safakwa kumakazi uLinda, umama weGiovanni, eSanta Maria, idolophu ekwizibuko ledolophu yase-blocklong. Umzi wakhe kunye nendlu ekuhlalwa kuyo yayihleli kunxweme oluncinci apho amaphenyane ayelungiswa khona entlabathini. Ecaleni kokulungiswa kwamaphenyane yayinguSilvia, ipensione enendawo yokutyela ye-openair phantsi kophahla lwengca. Ezantsi kwebhloko yayiyiZanzibar, apho abemi bafumana ikofu yabo yasekuseni kunye ne-cornetti. Le yayiyindawo ye-gelato kunye ne-espresso emva kwemini, kwaye ngorhatya lwe-aperitivi kwaye, ukusuka kwiitafile ezingaphandle kwipatio, ukutshona kwelanga. Emva koko kwabakho iPizzeria Da Luciano. Yintoni enye? Ifowuni yokuhlawula. Amachweba amdaka apho amaJamani atshisa ilanga amisa amaphenyane abo. YayinguSanta Maria lowo. Kwaye kwiveki elandelayo okanye, ngokuhlamba iimpahla emgceni, izinja zalapha ekhaya, abantwana abadlalayo, abanobuhlobo balapha ekhaya.

Ngosuku olulandelayo, sipakishe ipikniki saza sakhwela iteksi yamanzi eya eFrontone, nalapho uGiovanni wathi lolona lwandle lusebenzayo ePonza. Uninzi lweelwandle zesiqithi alufikeleleki ngumhlaba ngaphandle kokuba ukwimeko yokuphinda ukhumbule. Abantu baqesha amaphenyane amancinci kwaye bahamba ngenqanawa ukusuka kwinqaba ukuya kwi-cove okanye bathathe ezi teksi. Umphambili washiya uSanta Maria rhoqo kwimizuzu eli-15 okanye njalo kwaye ukukhwela kuthathe ngaphantsi kwe-10; ujikelezo lusibuyisele umva i-euro enye. I-Frontone yindawo enkulu emile okweqanda kunye nendawo enamatye engaphambili kunye nezitulo ezimbalwa eziqeshisa izitulo zokuphumla kunye neeambrela. UGiovanni usithumelele ukuthenga ngaloo ntsasa, kulula apha; sihamba nje kwitonela kwaye safumana i-lateral eneshizi entle, indawo yokubhaka, isitendi semifuno. Ukuba sisiqithi esincinci, iPonza ingenisa phantse yonke into, kubandakanya namanzi. (Iitanki ezinkulu zizele yonke imihla zifika kwizibuko eliphambili.) EFrontone, ukuba ipikniki yakho yemiqolo esandula ukubhakwa, isalumi, amakhiwane kunye neeapilkosi, inyathi mozzarella isandula ukulila ubisi, kwaye ibiscotti ayonelanga, ungatya kwenye yeendawo zokutyela ezimbini ezilungileyo nakweliphi icala lokugcina. Kwaye ngovuyo, ukuba uhamba en famille njengathi, ungakhwaza abantwana bakho ukuya kumxholo wentliziyo yakho kunye namaTaliyane: 'Raffaeli, Simoni, basta!' Hayi indlela esiye sakhululeka ngayo ukuvumela abantwana bam ukuba babaleke bebaleka ngale mikhwitshi ingxolayo yaselwandle. Intombi yam uZoe wenza umhlobo, uLaura, owayengathethi siNgesi kodwa wayeze nentombi katata wakhe ongumRoma, uGail. Ke nam ndazenzela umhlobo. Emva kwemini uGail kwaye sakhubeka ematyeni kwenye yeendawo zokutyela, siphathana nge-espresso.

IPonza inene, incinci kakhulu. Emva kokuba sidibene noGail noLaura, sabalekela kubo ngalo lonke ixesha-kwi-pizzeria, i-openair yeziqhamo kunye nemarike yemifuno, umatshini wemali. Zimbini kuphela iidolophu (ngokusemthethweni zibizwa ngokuba 'yimimandla'): iPonza, izibuko, kunye neLe Forna (enkulu kancinci kuneSanta Maria), kwelinye icala lesiqithi. Enye ibhasi ihla isihla kwindlela enkulu phakathi kwayo; Uyifaka iflegi phantsi ngaphambi kokuba idlule. ILe Forna likhaya laseLe Piscine Naturali, uthotho lweendawo ezinamanzi, amachibi afakwe ngokwendalo amanzi olwandle aqokelelwe kwizitya ze-lavarock. Sichithe uninzi lweveki yethu nokuba silapho okanye eFrontone, xa besingaqeshanga amaphenyane kuhambo oluya kumanxweme ajikeleze amagophe esiqithi. Kwi-Piscine Naturali kuya kufuneka unyuke isinyuko esinyukayo uye emanzini xa ujonge ulutsha lwasePonzesi olugigithekileyo kunye nokutshaya emaweni ajikelezileyo, elinye lazo lihlala lisenza idayi yokufa ukuze lixhase abanye. Kukho 'ulwandle' emazantsi amatye (kunye nodaka), kunye nezitulo zokurenta ukuba umphezulu onzima ungqine uqine kakhulu kumqolo wakho. Kwakuyinto encinci yokukhohlisa elwandle ukusuka edwaleni kunye nokudlula kwii-urchins zolwandle, kodwa ke iindawo ezintle kunye nemiqolomba ebhukuda ukuya kumachibi e-lava ayewufanele umzamo. Nokuba ulwamvila oluncinci olwenziwe yi-la medusa (jellyfish) aluzange lutshabalalise ulonwabo lwethu.

Ngobusuku isoka likaGail, uLuca, lafika ngempelaveki, wasisa sonke kwisidlo sangokuhlwa kwindawo ayithandayo, i-Il Tramonto, kufutshane nekhaya losapho kwenye yezona ndawo ziphakamileyo kwesi siqithi. Indlela iye yenyuka kakhulu njengoko iteksi yayinyusa intaba, kunye noLuca, umlinganiswa onomtsalane, emisa ikhabhathi ngoku kusikhethela zonke iintyatyambo. Sithe sakuphuma ngaphesheya kwesitrato sisuka endlwini yakhe, indlela ibiphantse yangabi nanto, kwaye xa litshona ilanga, kubonakala ngathi kusikhokelela ngqo kwilifu.

Ukutshaya ngentsimbi yonke indlela, uLuca wakhokelela uGail noBruce kwivenkile yokutyela, kodwa mna nabantwana saxhoma umva. Intombi yakhe uLaura yayifuna ukuthatha abantwana bethu ibase eyadini ekufuphi ukuze babone amatakane ebhokhwe. Ndathandabuza. Sasiphakathi kwendawo (indawo entle, kodwa akukho ndawo isekuyo) entabeni, abantwana bam babengathethi isiTaliyane, uLaura wayengathethi siNgesi, bonke babeneminyaka esibhozo ubudala okanye bencinci, kwaye, ke, besingazazi ezi zinto zintle abantu. Ndiqale ukuhamba emva kwabo xa umnini-venkile yokutyela evele, enditsalela ngaphakathi ngokubamba iglasi yeProsecco.

Bantwana bam. Utshutshiso. Bantwana bam. Utshutshiso.

Ngelixa ndilinganisela ukhetho lwam abantwana banyamalale endleleni. Ndithathe I champagne glass ndangena.

Iitafile kwithambeka le-Il Tramonto zinembono efanelekileyo kuyo yonke iPonza. Ngaphesheya kolwandle-olwalusisilivere eshushu ngokuhlwa, ilanga lase-orenji litshonela imitha yalo emanzini-yayisisiqithi esingenabemi sasePalmarola. Sibe lapho futhi, kunye noGail noLaura, ekuqaleni kweveki. Besilunyukisiwe ukuba iPalmarola ibubungangamsha obugqithisileyo kunePonza, ebebonakala ngathi ayinakwenzeka, ngaphandle kokuba iyinyani.

Ngoku, sihleli noLuca noGail kwi-tippytop yasePonza, phezulu kwaye sonwabile kwaye malunga nokuqalisa esinye isidlo seyure ezine, sinokubona ilizwekazi lase-Italiya ngasekunene kwethu, ngaphezulu komphandle. Abantwana babuyele etafileni ezele kukutya (ukukhukhumala okutyiweyo kwaselwandle, nabani na?) Kunye nabazali abanxilileyo.

'Uyakubona ukumila komhlaba apha,' yatsho intombi yam.

Kwaye kwakuyinyani, nokuba intloko yam yayijikeleza, ndandibona umjikelo womhlaba.

Ekugqibeleni lafika ixesha lokugoduka. Ngorhatya lwethu lokugqibela, samenyelwa phezulu kwigumbi eliphezulu laseMazzellas kwiziphuzo zokuvalelisa ngentsimbi yesithandathu. Umfazi onobabalo kaGiovanni, u-Ofelia, waqhotsa izitya ezimbini zeeppole, enye ithuliwe iswekile engumgubo, enye inesinamon. Wayebhaka amaqebengwana kwaye wawaqhekeza ngeNutella emva koko wawagcaba ngeekhekhe ezininzi, ngokungathi ziisendwitshi.

Yayiyinto nje yokujonga ikhuselo. Coke kunye neetshipsi zabantwana. Ujodo. Ikofu kunye newayini yabantu abadala. Umakazi kaMaria Clara kunye noMalume uJoe bamenyiwe, kuba bathetha isiNgesi. Sathetha, malunga neNew York, apho bebehlala khona iminyaka engama-30, kunye nePonza, apho bebeze ekhaya bezokuthatha umhlala-phantsi, kwaye ngokuhlwa kwashukuma kamnandi kancinci ukusuka kwi-dessert ukuya kwiwayini ukuya kwi-dessert ngakumbi. Emva koko umalume uJoe wagqiba kwelokuba abantwana badinga ice cream. Siye sehla ke ngezitepsi kwaye sahamba kancinci ukuya ezantsi kwindlela eya eZanzibar, apho wathenga khona igelati zabantwana. Emva e-Mazzellas ’, u-Ofelia wasimema ukuba siye kuhlala esidlweni sangokuhlwa (isidlo sangokuhlwa!) Kwaye thina, kunjalo, samkela.

Kwakungaselilo ixesha lokuqhuba. Kwaphuma itshizi, ityhuna u-Ofelia wayezigcinile-oku kwathatha iintsuku ezintathu-iminquma, isaladi ye-octopus, iintlobo ezimbini ezahlukeneyo zucchini, i-potatoParmesanpancetta pudding endinokucinga ngayo njenge-unkgel engacacanga, kunye nesonka. Isiselo somdiliya. Ipitsa. Kwaye ke ikhosi ephambili.

I-Langoustine ipasta enesosi ebomvu. UIsake, inkwenkwana yethu encinci, wakhalaza, 'Andisayi kuphinda nditye,' xa u-Ofelia emnika ipasta con burro (nebhotolo). Hayi indlela ekwakubuhlungu ngayo ukuthetha etafileni! 'Akakuthandi ukutya kwase-Italiyane?' wabuza uClara.

Kwakunzima ukweyisela nabani na ukuba ugcwele. Wabeka intloko yakhe emathangeni wam waqalisa ukugcuma. Okulandelayo kwakukho iziqhamo, amaqunube kwisiraphu yeswekile, ikofu, kwaye uThixo uyazi ukuba yintoni enye, kwaye ngeli xesha siyibize ngokuba iyayeka. Sibulele kakhulu kubabuki zindwendwe kwaye sehlisa izinyuko saya kwiibhedi zethu, sinombulelo kwiiMazzellas kwaye siziva singaqhelekanga ngokungathi asiphumeleli.

Ekuseni ndivukile bendisahluthi. Ndikhubekile ndaya kwipatio yethu. Kwakukho iimbiza ezipinki, ezibomvu, nezimhlophe igeranium ezilingana nentloko yosana. Icikilishe elincinci lityhale ibhola yetshokholethi esithe sayichitha kwisidlo sakusasa ngentsasa engaphambi kokuwela iithayile ngempumlo. Ndikhuphe impahla yethu emgceni ndaza ndanuka umoya wolwandle kwiipijama zethu eziqinileyo kodwa ezicocekileyo, ndizama ukukhumbula ivumba ngaphambi kokuba ndilisonge ndize ndilibeke kwiityesi zethu. Xa ndikhupha iibhegi emva kokuba sifikile ekhaya, ndandisaziva ivumba lolwandle ityuwa.

Nini ukuya

Elona xesha lilungileyo lokundwendwela ngoJuni okanye ngoSeptemba, ngaphambi okanye emva kwezihlwele.

Ukufika apho

Ukusuka eRoma, thatha uloliwe uye eAnzio okanye eFomia- okanye uqhume kwiteksi ($ 160 ukuya eAnzio; $ 335 ukuya eFormia). Emva koko ukhwele isikhephe okanye i-hydrofoil ukuya ePonza. Amaxabiso ajikelezayo aphakathi kwe- $ 40 kunye ne- $ 80; abakhweli bathabatha imizuzu engama-45 ukuya kwiiyure ezingama-21/2. Ngeeshedyuli kunye nolwazi, yiya caremar.it okanye vetor.it.

T + L Ingcebiso

Sukujonga iidilesi ePonza-zimbalwa ezikhoyo. Mane ubuze umntu wasekhaya okanye uxelele umqhubi weteksi ukuba uyaphi.

Uhlala phi

I-arhente ye-Immobilevante yee-villa kunye neendawo zokuhlala. 390771/820083; imvbelatshana.it ; amaxabiso aqala kwi- $ 337.

Ikhaya likaRosa Dei Venti leHolide ngoku elinikwa nguGiovanni Mazzella. Ukuhamba ngeSpiaggia S. Maria; 390771/801559 (cela u-Ofelia); iphindwe kabini kwi-107.

Grand Hotel Chiaia di Luna Kufuphi nezibuko; imibono enkulu elwandle. Ukuhamba ngePanoramica; 390771/80113; iitshsoft.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-324 yeedola.

I-Villa Laetitia Anna Fendi Venturini ye-B & B kwindlu ye-1920. Ukuhamba ngeS Scotti; 390771/809886; villalaetitia.it ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi- $ 310.

Apho utya khona

Ipenshoni uSilvia Via Spiaggia S. Maria; 390771/80075; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezili-108.

Indawo yokutyela ye-Il Tramonto yeyona ndawo ithandwayo emhlabeni. Ukuphela kwengxoxo. Ukuhamba ngeCampo Inglese, Le Forna; 390771/808563; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezili-135.

Kwenziwe ntoni

Umthendeleko waseSan Silverio ukwiveki yesithathu kaJuni. Isikhephe esiya eLwandle lwangaphambili sishiya yonke imizuzu eli-15 okanye njalo ukusuka kwizibuko laseSanta Maria. Kwi-Piscine Naturali, thatha ibhasi ukusuka kwidolophu yasePonza uye eLe Forna kwaye uhambe uye ezantsi.