U-André Breton, inkokheli eyazalelwa e-France yombutho wama surrealist, wabiza ilizwe lase Mexico njengelona lizwe li-surrealist emhlabeni xa wayetyelele ngo-1938. Ndilapha eCosta Alegre, indawo engonwabanga engaphuhliswanga kakuhle kunxweme lwaseMexico lwePasifiki, ukujonga Ubunewunewu obutsha bembono-inzala enesidima yelizwe laseBreton ethatha imikhondo ngokungaphaya kumachibi angenasiphelo nakwiphupha eliyiphupha lomzobo kaFrida Kahlo.
Ke ngokwendalo ndingumdlalo wokuzingela iHotelitoito Desconocido (igama layo lithetha ihotele eNcinci engaziwayo) ndisebenza ngendlela engacacanga ethunyelwe nge-imeyile ngugcino. Hotelito… kwenye indawo ePacific, iwebhusayithi ifundwe. Ngaphandle kokuthetha, ndilahleka kakhulu: iindlela zomhlaba eziphekiweyo, iidonki emadlelweni, amasimi e-bucolic, i-cactus scrapes kwimoto eqeshisayo. Okokugqibela thina (umlingane endihamba naye ngumhlobo osuka kwisiXeko saseNew York) sifika kwisango elingaphawulwanga, elifana nenqaba eligcinwe ngoonogada abaxhobileyo abajonge ngamehlo xa ndibanika igama lam.
Ndihlala ndikuthanda oku kolulwa kwe-Mexico ngenxa yokungaxoli kwayo. I-Anchor yiPuerto Vallarta, iCosta Alegre ijikeleza emazantsi eBanderas Bay kumazwe aseJalisco naseColima, ecaleni kwendlela engu-200, aka Carretera Pacífico. Ukusukela ubuncinci i-1960's (xa Ubusuku beIguana, Kudlala uRichard Burton kunye noAva Gardner, wafotwa ePuerto Vallarta), lo mmandla utsale ababonisi bezolonwabo, izendalo, abagibeli, kunye ne-eccentrics yayo yonke imigca ye-tan. Bafumene inkcubeko yasekuhlaleni enyamezelayo ebandakanya amaIndiya amaHuichol- enza ubugcisa bezinto ezinento yokwenza nepeyote, ezinye zineepom-poms ezibengezelayo- kunye nobuhle, ubuhle obamkelekileyo be-bougainvillea kunye namasimi anengca, umoya wasebusuku ovakala ngathi yisilika, kunye nemozulu. kufutshane kakhulu ukuba izindlu ezininzi zakhiwe ngaphandle kweendonga.
Elinye lamagosa ahloniphekileyo yayingumyili wefashoni wase-Italiya uMarcello Murzilli, owafika eCosta Alegre ngeminyaka yoo-1990 ezokufezekisa iphupha lakhe lehotele ye-eco-luxury ehlekisayo. Eyakhelwe kufutshane nendawo yokugcina izilwanyana zasendle ezikhethiweyo yi-unesco, ipropathi yaseFellini-met-Robinson-Crusoe yayineendawo ezimbalwa ezinamandla elanga iqeqs (indlu efulelwe ngengca). Yatsala abathengi abaneenkwenkwezi kubandakanya imodeli uRachel Hunter, othe ngengozi watshisa inxenye yehotele ngelixa wayekhona Umdlali odlalayo ukufota iifoto ngo-2004. Abanini abatsha baseHotitoito, iqumrhu eliseGuadalajara elikufutshane, kutshanje bagqibezela ukulungiswa kwezigidi ezingama-20 zeedola, behlaziya izibonelelo ngelixa begcina umbono othandekayo kaMurzilli.
Sikhokelwe nangona i-labyrinth ye-Hotelito yegadi ze-psychedelic, apho abasebenzi befumana isanti emoyeni. Eyethu ipalafito Ngumbongo de litshone ilanga kwaye kubonakala ngokukhawuleza ukuba akukho kukhanya kombane kwigumbi lam-ukubambelela kwimihla kaMurzilli, ngaphandle kwamathandabuzo. Andiziva ndingumbhali kakhulu, ndiyothuka kwaye ndiqokelele izinto kwindawo yolwamkelo (isibane sokufunda esisebenza ngebhetri, amanzi okusela, njl. Kodwa kungekudala amakhulu eetotshi kunye namakhandlela amenyezelayo e-wax akhanyisiwe kwaye yonke ipropathi ikhanyisiwe ngobuhle obungaqhelekanga.
Emva kwexesha ngobo busuku sijoyine iqaqobana leendwendwe ezinxibe iicaftans zejejee kwaye siqokelele kwindawo yokutyela, eyilwe ngendlela ephucukileyo kaPhilippe Starck ranchero. Njengee-castaways ezimnandi, siphuza i-margarita nge-bar enkulu eyenziwe ngomthi, siphulaphule i-jazz kwaye sijonge ngaphaya komtya wamaphenyane e-fuchsia kwichweba ukuya kwibhanki engaphandle, apho amaza olwandle aqhekeka kwaye umlilo uvutha phantsi kweenkwenkwezi.
I-Hotelito ngumzala ongenazimbadada ezingenantambo-chic waseCosta Careyes, indawo yokuhlala / indawo yokudlala emnandi malunga neeyure ezimbini emazantsi. Usomashishini wase-Italiya u-Gian Franco Brignone waseka indawo yokuphumla ekhethekileyo ngo-1968 kubahlobo bakhe ababeseta i-jet, kubandakanya u-Egon von Fürstenberg no-billionoire wase-Franco-Bhritane uJames Goldsmith. (Emva koko uGoldsmith wathenga umhlaba ongummelwane, obizwa ngokuba yiCuixmala, kwaye wakha indawo yokuphumla ephethwe yintombi yakhe uAlix Marcaccini.)
Siyeka eCosta Careyes ubusuku obumbalwa kwaye sihlasele usuku lokuzalwa lohlobo lokudlala oluvela eLos Angeles. Ngokufanelekileyo kwinqanaba lekhosi elijikeleze apha, apho amaqela athambekele ekuqhambukeni ngaphezulu kwemijikelezo yee-margaritas kwaye bonke bayamenywa-ngoku ke ngumbono wam we-utopia. I-Brignone ikhona, isanxibe utyikityo u-djellaba, ephethe intonga yokuhamba etafileni yakhe enomthunzi kwindawo yokutyela iMeditera iPlaya Rosa, elunxwemeni oluphambili lweCareyes. Ukuzinikela kukaBrignone kubomi obuhle be-bohemian kubonakala kulwakhiwo olungqongileyo: amaqonga okucamngca, iigolas zombane, indlwane yabantu, iorenji kunye neenqaba ezipinki ezishushu ezibekwe kwiinduli zetropiki. Iimbono zintsontso — ngezona ndlela zingcono — kwaye kungekudala iindwendwe zizifumana zityhafile okanye zibukele ukuphuma kwelanga eLa Copa del Sol, ikomityi yesamente enkulu yaseBrignone yaseNiemeyeresque kwiliwa elijonge iPacific ebamba ilanga ngamaxesha athile onyaka. Intombi yokwakha yaseBrignone, uEmanuela Brignone Cattaneo, ukwisimo esifanayo kwaye kutsha nje uyile izindlu ezintsha zokuhlala, ezibizwa ngokuba ziiConstellations-endiyithandayo ibe yinqaba yoxande ebhalwe ngumnyama.
Emva kobusuku obambalwa eCosta Careyes sibuyele elunxwemeni kwaye sijonge eLas Alamandas, sidinga kakhulu iholide kwikhefu lethu. I-boutique ranch-style hacienda iphethwe ngu-Isabel Goldsmith-intombi endala kaJames Goldsmith-kwaye, ngaphandle kwesango lokungena elingafunekiyo, ayisiyonto ithengiswayo. (UNks. Goldsmith uzuze njengepasela eyi-1,500 yehektare kuyisemkhulu u-Antenor Patiño, unyana ka-Bolivian Tin King u-Simón Patiño.) Umxube wePalm Beach, iBeverly Hills, kunye ne-Gstaad, i-Las Alamandas ineempawu ezimbalwa, imithetho embalwa, kwaye igqibelele inkonzo yemali endala. Kukho amagumbi ayi-16, izindlu zezindlu ezintsha ezintathu, kwaye kukho itrarmac yokufaka iijets zabucala; Ndaziva ngathi ndingumndwendwe ohlonitshwayo kaNks Goldsmith kunomthengi ohlawulayo. Ndibhadula kwiindawo ezinkulu ezazinxitywe ngezinto zakudala zaseSpain, ndaxhonywa kumandlalo onemibala yesundu egqunywe ngelaphu eliphinki elihamba ngetreyini, ndibhadula ndisuka kunxweme lwasendle ndisiya kulwandle lwasendle. E-Las Alamandas iindwendwe azicetyiswa ngendlela yokuphumla-sele besazi.
IPuerto Vallarta, kunye neevenkile zayo ze-trinket, iindawo ezinabantu abaninzi inqanawa, kunye nokuhamba kwekhonkrithi kwee-condos kunye neevenkile ezinkulu, sisixeko abaninzi abazama ukusiphepha, kodwa esinye sinomdla wokujonga. Kule minyaka imbalwa idlulileyo iintlobo ze-arty kunye noluntu olukhulayo lwabantu abathandanayo baye bafumana ikota yakudala, lakuba liziko le-1960's boom boom, apho iinkwenkwezi zaseHollywood ezinje ngoRichard Burton noElizabeth Taylor babenamakhaya; abafikayo bahlaziya iindawo zokuhlala zaseSpain-zobukoloniyali kunye nokuvula iivenkile kunye neendawo zokundwendwela. Indawo epholileyo iphakame ezindulini, ngasemva kwesixeko, nezitalato ezimxinwa ezinamatye afakwe izindlu ezinkulu ezidilikileyo ezakhiwe ngoochwephesha bamachweba benkulungwane ye-18 kunye nabaphathi beenqanawa. Leyo yindawo yokuma kwethu okulandelayo, iHacienda San Angel, uthotho lwezindlu ezidibeneyo, kubandakanya le kaBurton eyathengwa njengesipho soSuku lweValentine kumfazi wakhe uSusan Hunt, kamva wathengwa nguJanice Chatterton, waseMelika owavula iHacienda ngo-2003. Umqokeleli othe tye, iChatterton igcwalise yonke iminyango yee-suites zeendwendwe, iiyadi ezinamagqabi, kunye necawa evulekileyo eneerugs zaseMpuma, iibhedi zakudala zaseSpain, izibingelelo zamaKatolika, kunye nemifanekiso eqingqiweyo yeengcwele. Indikhumbuza ngokucocwa, umzala omncinci waseChateau Marmont.
Umsebenzi, waseMelika onentetho ehloniphekileyo eseMazantsi, usamkela ngezandla ezishushu margarita njengoko sihleli kwigumbi lokungenela sincoma i-pax yase-Oaxacan esixelela yona ukuba yayikade ingokaYul Brynner. Singeva ukugquma kwothando lwebhendi ye-mariachi, ke siye kwindlela yokutyela ephahleni, ejonge eluphahleni lwamatye kunye ne-Banderas Bay. Izidlo sangokuhlwa zigcwalisa iitafile njengezicocekileyo, iiweta ezinxibe iyunifom ukusondeza ukuhambisa iitreyi zokufumba ipoblano pepper kwaye ndicaphukile . Emva kwemijikelezo embalwa yeziselo siyaqonda ukuba, ukuba kumnandi kakhulu sifuna, kufuneka sihlale sibekile.
Endaweni yoko, sisingise ePunta de Mita, malunga nesiqingatha seyure xa sihamba sisinge emantla, esiye savela njengendawo yedolophu yaseVallarta, apho iindawo zayo zokutyela ezinamanzi zigalelwe isanti kufutshane nezinye zeekhephu ezirhangqileyo. I-Imanta-eguqulela ngokukhululekileyo njengokutsala ngemagnethi- yipropathi entsha ene-top-the-top, pre-Hispanic, elahlekile-impucuko umxholo nkqu ne-surrealists ngebabunzima ukuyiphupha. Ingathi itempile yakudala kaMayan yayikhweliswe ngenqwelo moya isiya embindini wehlathi eliselunxwemeni elinolwandle lwabucala, iitotems eziqingqiweyo, kunye neebhedi zasemini ezinezikhuselo ezimhlophe ezimhlophe. Iindwendwe azihlali kumagumbi-zihlala kwiindawo ezizimeleyo, izindlu ezincinci zakhiwe kumatye amakhulu aqingqiweyo esizeni. Inkulu ngokwaneleyo ukuba ibe nosapho lwabantu abahlanu — kodwa inebhedi enye enkulu — nganye inebhafu yokuhombisa elityeni. Yonke imiqondiso yehlabathi langoku, kubandakanya iindawo zombane kunye ne-plasma TV's, zifihliwe ngobuqili.
Isidlo sangokuhlwa sihamba ngenqanawa ukuya eSayulita, idolophu yase-surf ehamba abantu kwimizuzu embalwa kude, inee-smoothie stand, i-taquerias, kunye nolutsha oluninzi, iihippie ezishukiweyo ezifuna ipati. Sidibana nomhlobo wam uNathalie Mignot, oyinxalenye yesizalo esazalelwa eFrance esidume ngeentsimbi zomqala zeeperile ezimnyama, ePachamama, iboutique ebaleka nosapho lwayo. Banayo igalari yobugcisa kunye nehotele, iPetit Hotel Hafa, kunye ne-villa, i-Les Oiseaux Volants. Sizulazula kwizitrato ezibanzi sidlula iivenkile ezincinci zokutyela ikhandlela kunye nemivalo enikwe amandla ngabavelisi kunye neengcinga zoyilo eziyinqaba. Sikhetha enye eneejingi ezinamathele kumasebe omthi endaweni yezitulo. Umpheki wase-Italiya, umthengisi ngemini, upheka ipasta eyenziwe ekhaya kwisitovu esincinci senkampu. Inkosikazi yakhe yaseSpain iphindwe kabini njengeweyitala yethu. Kungumceli mngeni wokutya iilwimi zaselwandle kwi-sauce emhlophe yewayini ngelixa uhleli kwi-swing edidayo, kodwa ndiqhwabela izandla umzamo wabo wokuguqula amava okutya aqhelekileyo. Ndiqinisekile ukuba uAndré Breton wayezakuvuma, naye.
Ukufika apho
Iinqwelomoya ezinkulu zinikela ngeenqwelo moya ePuerto Vallarta. Lungiselela ukuhanjiswa kwehotele okanye ukuqesha imoto.
Hlala
ICosta Careyes Irizothi Km 53.5, Crta. IBarra de Navidad - iPuerto Vallarta; yhoya.com . $$
Cuixmala Km 45, Crta. IBarra de Navidad - iPuerto Vallarta; www.kuyoku.net . $$$
IHacienda San Angel 336 iMiramar, iPuerto Vallarta; haciendasanangel.com . $$$
Ihotele encinci engaziwayo Dlala i-Mismaloya, Tomatlán; hotelito.com . $$$$
Imanta IHiguera Blanca, iBay yeBanderas; imantaresorts.com . $$$$
I-Las Alamandas I-Km 83.5, iCrta. I-Federal 200; alamandas.com . $$$
Iintaka ezibhabhayo 4A ICalle Delfín, iSayulita; 52-329 / 291-3468. $$$$
Ixabiso lamaxabiso ehotele
$ Ngaphantsi kwama- $ 200
$$ $ 200 ukuya kuma-350 eedola
$$$ $ 350 ukuya kuma-500 eedola
$$$$ $ 500 ukuya kwi- $ 1,000
$$$$$ Ngaphezulu kwe- $ 1,000
Iintaka ezibhabhayo
IHacienda San Angel
Ubugcisa bobukoloniyali buhombisa iipatiyo eziyimfihlo kunye neooks zale hotele yothando eneehotele ezili-19.