IBachmair Weissach , ihotele yeli xesha ihonjiswe nge-mahogany kunye neokhakhayi lexhama lendawo yokuhlala yokuzingela, silindelwe echibini kunye ne-apos; unxweme olusemazantsi. Enye yeendawo zokutyela ngaphakathi ezikhethekileyo kwifondue; kuhluthwe i-kitschy 1970s connotation enayo eMelika, ifondue yenza ingqiqo enkulu. Sichithe isidlo sethu sokuqala eJamani sifaka iifolokhwe zesonka, isicholo, kunye namakhiwane asikiweyo embizeni ye-tangy Bergkäse - itshizi yentaba-sayihlamba ngeglasi zeSyviser ebandayo.

Ngentsasa elandelayo sajikeleza iTegernsee kwiilali zezindlu ezisezantsi ezineebhalkhoni ezineentyatyambo. Kwidolophu yaseBad Wiessee, samisa isidlo sasemini eFischerei Bistro, isakhiwo somthi esingqongwe ziibhafu ezimbini ezisetyenziselwa ukupholisa i-champagne. UChristoph von Preysing, umninimzi onobunewunewu obumangalisayo, wakhomba kwishishini lokuloba awayelisebenza ngaphesheya kwechibi. Yayiyimvelaphi yetshathi emnandi ayisebenzisayo ngeendlela ezintathu-kwisaladi, njenge-roe, kwaye xa iyonke, ifillets etshaye kakhulu. Kamva, kwidolophana ekwabizwa ngokuba yiTegernsee, kunxweme olungaphesheya, sazifaka kwindawo yokulahla isonka esine-bhotolo ethambileyo yokulahla isonka kwi-mushroom gravy kunye ne-pilsner yendawo kwindawo yaseHerzogliches Bräustüberl Tegernsee, iholo yebhiya esecavernous ngaphakathi kwindawo yoonongendi yaseBenedictine. Amakhulu alapha, abahambi bosuku abavela eMunich, kunye nabakhenkethi abasuka kude kakhulu batya basela kwizandi zebhendi ephilayo ngelixa oonogada bezele iipleyiti zewurst kunye neebhasikithi zaseLaugenbrezeln, ii-pretzels zesiko ezenziwe nge-lye netyuwa, zihonjisiwe phakathi iitafile.

Ngaloo mvakwemini, safumanisa ukuba kuya kufuneka sibeke indawo yethu yokuhamba ngokuhamba - ngenxa yemozulu eshushu engalindelekanga, uninzi lwekhephu lanyibilika kwaye nemijikelezo yethoba ivaliwe. Sahamba ngegondola saya phezulu eWallberg. Ngezantsi kwethu, ichibi kunye needolophana ezikufutshane zazikhangeleka njengemodeli yendlela kaloliwe; Iincopho zebali emva kwethu ziye zaya eOstriya.

Ngokwengqikelelo yeentsuku ezintlanu, indawo ekuphela kwayo eJamani apho sasinokuqiniseka ukuba siza kufumana i-tobogganing yayiku-Zugspitze, apho imidyarho ivuliwe unyaka wonke. Ukuqhutywa apho kwasisa ngasemlanjeni i-Isar, owawukhanyisa umthunzi okhazimlayo we-aquamarine kangangokuba sazibuza ukuba ingaba irhangqwe zizibane ezingaphantsi kwamanzi, kunye neKarwendel edlulileyo, indalo igcina phantse ubungakanani beChicago. Imbonakalo yamatye eengxondorha anemipayipi ekhephu nekhephu yasikhumbuza imidlalo yeentsomi kaRichard Wagner, owachitha eyona minyaka imyoli eBavaria.

Sinembali ezingqondweni zethu kunye nokuvela kukaDas Rheingold ekhwaza kwi-BMW yethu eqeshiweyo, mna noPaul sigqibe kwelokuba senze indlela engalindelekanga eya eLinderhof Palace, ikhaya elithandwayo nguWagner & apos; s umxhasi, uKing Ludwig II. Intle kwaye iphakame, uKumkani wase-Swan, njengoko wayesaziwa njalo, wayonwabela ukwenza uhambo olungaxelwanga ukuya ezilalini kwaye abonise amafama awadibana nawo nezipho ezinkulu. Abanye bendawo basabhekisa kuye kulwimi lwaseBavaria njenge Wethu kini - UKumkani wethu. Njengamakhosi aseYurophu, uLudwig wayemnandi njengoko efumana.

ILinderhof ijongeka njengokuncipha kweVersailles efakwe kwintlambo ekude yeentaba. Ibhotwe elinomtsalane elingalindelwanga lizaliswe zizithambeka ngeentlobo ezahlukeneyo zemabhile, iMeissen china, indlovu-ngamabamba endlovu, kunye negqabi elaneleyo legolide lokwakha isikhululo senqwelomoya. Eyona nto ibalulekileyo kuyo yitafile yokutyela ebibekelwe ukutya kunye newayini ekhitshini elingaphantsi komhlaba kwaye iphakanyiswe ngentambo kwigumbi elingasentla, apho uLudwig ebekhetha ukutya yedwa. Emva koko, ngamanye amaxesha wayedla ngokuya kwiVenus Grotto, umqolomba owenziwe ngumntu onedike elingaphantsi komhlaba, elipeyintiweyo ukuze libukeke njengendawo evela eWagner & apos; s Tannhäuser. Apho, inkosi yaseBavaria yayibhejelwa ngephenyane elwandle eline-gilt ngelixa enye yejenreyitha yokuqala yombane eYurophu yayikhanyisa iindonga ngemibala eyenye.

ISchloss Elmau, ihotele yethu kunye nesiseko samakhaya kufutshane neZugspitze kwiintsuku ezine ezizayo, zibonakalise zimangalisa ngokulinganayo. Ime kwintlambo yentaba apho amahashe eLudwig & apos ayemisa khona amanzi kwindlela eya kwindawo yakhe yokuzingela kwenye yeencopho ezikufuphi. Sisakhiwo esikhulu, esirhabaxa esixhonywe yinqaba yamaRoma, kodwa amagumbi ethu abekwe kwisakhiwo esitsha, esibizwa ngokuba yiRetreat. Njengoko sasimisa, kweza ibhinqa eliselula elinxibe isuti emnyama, laza lathi, 'Wamkelekile, Mnumzana Halberstadt.' Usikhokele sangena kwindawo ebanzi evulekileyo eyenziwe ngomthi omnyama kwaye igcwele iitapile zaseTshayina, iishelfu zeencwadi ezinoqweqwe oluqinileyo, kunye nezibane eziqeqeshwe ngokuchanekileyo, emva koko wakhwela kumgangatho wenqanawa ujonge intaba ethe yenyuka yaya emafini. Xa ndabuza malunga nokungena, isikhokelo sethu sandixelela ukuba akukho nto iphambili njengokungena eSchloss Elmau, kwaye samkelekile ukuba sinyukele kumagumbi ethu nangaliphi na ixesha.

Imayini yajika yaba yindawo yokungcakaza kunye ne-Balinese kunye ne-Indian accents, izibane ze-motion-sensor, kunye ne-270-degree vista yentlambo. (Emva kwexesha, ndafumanisa ukuba xa iSchloss yabamba ingqungquthela ye-G7 ngo-2015, indawo yam yayihlala uShinzo Abe, inkulumbuso yaseJapan.) Ngaphandle kwamagumbi amahle kunye neeresityu ezininzi, ii-sauna, kunye namachibi ashushu, iSchloss ilawula iqhinga Ukubonakala kungavumeli okanye kungabonakali. Ukufundwa kodwa ukuchukunyiswa okungaqhelekanga-ishelufu yemidlalo yebhodi, iimfumba zeencwadi zobugcisa ezineentsiba ezigugileyo-kunciphisa ukuqonda kunye ne-apos ngenkonzo engenamsebenzi, enzima eyenzeka ngaphandle kwamehlo.

Kwathi kanti, iincwadi endandizibona kuyo yonke indawo zazingaphezulu kokuchaphazeleka. ISchloss iqulethe iilayibrari ezintathu zabucala kunye nevenkile enkulu yeencwadi. Le yokugqibela inabasebenzi baka-Ingeborg Prager, intombazana encinci ethanda iwayini ebomvu kunye necuba, umsebenzi wayo ophambili eSchloss Elmau, ngokokutsho kwam, yayikukubandakanya iindwendwe kwincoko malunga neencwadi. Kwenye indawo, iiholo ezininzi zisingatha imiboniso engaphezulu kwama-220 ngonyaka ziimvumi zeklasikhi nezejazz, ezinye zidume kwihlabathi liphela. Inkqubo yenkcubeko ikwabandakanya ii-symposia zengqondo, ukufundwa, kunye neziganeko ezimangazayo ezifana noBill Murray efunda imibongo kaEmily Dickinson kunye noWalt Whitman ngelixa bekhatshwa ngumtya wesithathu.

Ndifunde ngembali engalindelekanga yale ndawo kumnini wayo, uDietmar Müller-Elmau. I-Schloss yayiyi-lark katatomkhulu wakhe, uJohannes Müller, isifundiswa sezakwalizwi esingumProtestanti nombhali othengisa kakhulu kwintetho yentanda-bulumko neyokomoya. Ixhaswe ngonyaka we-1914 sisidwangube esasithanda iimfundiso zikaMüller & apos, sasenzelwe njengendawo yokuphumla iindwendwe ukuba zigqithe i-egos yazo ngokuhamba kwindalo kwaye zidanise ngamandla kumculo weklasikhi. Ekugqibeleni, ifilosofi yelifa lika-Müller kunye ne-apos zadutyulwa lilizwi lakhe lokuncoma uHitler, kwaye emva kwemfazwe iSchloss yaba sisibhedlele somkhosi waseMelika kwaye kamva isibhedlele samaxhoba amaJuda kulawulo lwamaNazi. Xa uMüller-Elmau wayithathela kuye le ndawo, yayiqhutywa lusapho lwakhe njengehotele engenanzuzo, wayibona njengealbatross. 'Kodwa ekugqibeleni ndanomdla kwiihotele,' undixelele. Namhlanje, iSchloss isibonakaliso seengcinga zakhe ezininzi ezingaqhelekanga nezinyanzelisayo malunga nokwamkela iindwendwe, ukuhombisa kunye nenkcubeko.

Sasilindelwe zezinye izinto. Ifumaneka kwimizuzu engama-20 xa uhamba ngemoto, iGarmisch-Partenkirchen yidolophu eyaziwayo ngokubamba iiOlimpiki zasebusika zowe-1936. Ilawulwa libala lemidlalo elibi elirhangqwe yimifanekiso eqingqiweyo yeembaleki. Ngethamsanqa, ayizizo zonke ezimbi. Ngobunye ubusuku, saya apho esidlweni sangokuhlwa e-Husar, apho mna noPaul senze khona umsebenzi omfutshane we-schnitzel ye-veal ekhanyayo kunye ne-quet ye-quet ne-beet carpaccio elungiselelwe ngumpheki uVerena Merget. Umyeni wakhe, umKristu, wayengasebenzi ngesidiliya esinye iRiesling eyomileyo esuka eSchlossgut Diel eNahe eyayingcamla njengecocktail yeelime kunye nothuli lwequartz. Emva koko wavula enye.

Ngentsasa siya eZugspitze, sayifumana imoto yethu isilindile ngaphandle kweRetreat. EGarmisch, sapaka ngegondola engaphoxisiyo, eyasidubula saya encotsheni yeZugspitze phantse sathambeka; ilifti encinci isizisile kumkhenkce. Indoda e-surly kwikhawuntara yokuqeshisa izixhobo yandidubula ndajonga ngendlela ehlekisayo xa ndacela isilingi somthi. 'Ngoomama abakhulelweyo kuphela abaqeshayo,' wambombozela ngesiNgesi esinegama, emva koko waqhekeza xa ndicela isigcina-ntloko. Mna noPaul sangena kuloo moya ubhadlileyo urhuqa iitobggans ezincinci zeplastiki. Umzobo oseludongeni wawuchazile ukuba ubakhokele ngokuya ngomqolo kunye nokuthoba unyawo kwikhephu. Oku kwabonakala kuyingozi ngaphandle kwenzululwazi.

Ndenze umdyarho wokuqala ndimise kancinci ethambekeni, ndanyuka ndisiya ngapha ndaza ndayeka ukumisa ezantsi. Ndosule ikhephu ebusweni bam ndabuya ndabuyela umva. Emva kokwehla okuninzi ndiye ndaqala ukujinga kwindawo ejikelezayo kwaye ndaziva ndonwabile kwi-plexus yelanga I & apos; ndikhumbula ukusuka ebuntwaneni bam.

Uyazi ukuba le ithambeka lomntwana, akunjalo? ' Utshilo uPaul. Wayendilinde phezulu, encwinile kakubi. Umqondiso ecaleni kwakhe uqulethe umzobo womfazi kunye nomntwana omncinci kwisileyi.

Ukuhamba nje okufutshane, ithambeka labantu abadala lakhula lawela ngqo ezantsi laza lajijeleka ngaphandle kwamehlo. Ngelixesha ndijongile ndinoloyiko, indoda eglasini kunye nepaki eluhlaza yaxhuma kwi-toboggan kwaye yahamba ngesantya. Ezantsi kwinzala yokuqala, i-toboggan yaphuma phantsi kwakhe yaza yaya kuthi ga kwithambeka elikufutshane, iphantse yathatha iqela labashushuluzi. Indoda yafika yema emqolo inamalungu omzimba atyibiliziweyo, ajongeka ngathi yintlanzi enkulu elunxwemeni. Ndijonge uPaul.

'Yiza,' watsho, 'iya kuba yinto entle!' Ndikhangele ngaphakathi kum kodwa ndafumana kuphela uluvo oluchazayo, hayi ngokuqinisekileyo. 'Ilahleko yakho, mfondini,' utshilo uPaul, kwaye wehla ithambeka. Ndijonge ibhatyi yakhe incipha njengoko wayephephetha engabonakali. Kanye ngelo xesha ndazisola ngokummema. Ndilume umlomo ndanyathela ndihamba shame. Kungekudala emva koko ndabona uPaul esiza kum, iingalo zakhe zaphakanyiswa loloyiso. 'Ndifumene ukhula kwindawo yokukhwela i-ski lift,' wakhwaza.

Sivumelene ngokuhlangana kamva kwaye ndaphindela kumthambeka wobuntwana, nditsala itoyiki emva kwam. Ilanga lifudumeze ubuso bam kwaye phambi kwam ikhephu lalibonakala lidibana nesibhakabhaka, lisenza ukuba kubonakale ngathi ndihamba eluphahleni lwehlabathi. Kungekudala imeko yam yaphakama, nayo. Ndiye ndaqonda ukuba ndifuna i-sledding ukuba ihlale ebuntwaneni, apho inokuqhubeka nokucula ingoma yayo ye-nostalgic. Njengecocoa eshushu kunye neetonsillitis, yayiyinto engcono esele ishiye ngaphambili. Phezulu kwithambeka lekiddie ndahlala kwi-toboggan ndaziqhusheka ndehla endulini. Ngexesha lokufika kwam emazantsi, ubuso bam butyatyekwe likhephu, I & apos; d ndiyifumene into endiyifunayo.

Uyijonga njani iBavaria

Ukufika apho

Le kwikona yeJamani idume ngeedolophana zayo zamaxesha aphakathi, iinqaba zentsomi, ukutya okumnandi kunye nezinto zangaphandle - ngakumbi ukuthengisa ubusika. Ukufika apho, bhabha uye eMunich, kwikomkhulu likarhulumente, apho unokurenta khona imoto kwaye uphonononge iingingqi ezibonisa iindlela zasemaphandleni ngesantya sakho.

Iihotele

Ihotele iBachmair Weissach : Ifumaneka iyure esezantsi kweMunich, le ndawo yokungcakaza, intofontofo ine-Zen-meets-hunting-lodge vibe, iindawo zokutyela ezininzi ezintle, kunye neembono ezintle zeentaba. Ipropathi ibonelela ngokulula ukuskiya kunye nokutsalwa kwetoblin eWallberg. Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 302.

Inqaba yase-Elmau : Ihotele enkulu, efihlwe kwintlambo yeAlpine malunga neyure entshona yeBachmair Weissach, ngamava aseBavaria. Iikonsathi zemihla ngemihla, iiaspa ezininzi, iivenkile zokutyela ezilithoba, kunye nendawo yokugcina iincwadi kwindawo leyo ziyinxalenye yebali. Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 522.

Iindawo zokutyela

I-bistro yokuloba : Ukutya kwaselwandle okuthandekayo kwasekhaya kunikezelwe kunxweme lweTegernsee. Ungeniso $ 11- $ 39.

UDucal Bräustüberl Tegernsee : Iholo eliqengqelekayo lebhiya kwindawo yoonongendi bangaphambili, le ndawo ayinakubethwa ngenxa yeLaugenbrezeln yayo - ii-pretzels zesiko ezenziwe nge-lye netyuwa- kunye nokubukela abantu. Ukungena kwe- $ 8- $ 15.

Luce d & apos; Igolide : Indawo yokutyela eneenkwenkwezi iSchloss Elmau kunye neeapos zisebenza ngokutya okucocekileyo kodwa okufikelelekayo kunye noluhlu olukhulu lwewayini. Ungeniso $ 26- $ 57.

ENuremberg Bratwurst Glöckl ndingu-Dom: Iziko elithandekayo elidume ngeesoseji ezenziwe ngeplanga zeNürnberger kunye neebhiya ezintsha zeHelles - ezinemihombiso ebonakala ngathi ayitshintshanga ukusukela ngexesha likaKumkani uLudwig II. Ukungena kwe- $ 8- $ 32.

Indawo yokutyela : Kule ndlu isibhakabhaka-luhlaza egutyungelwe ngemizobo eneminyaka engama-200 ubudala, umpheki uVerena Merget kunye neeapos ezinencasa yokupheka izibini zaseBavaria ngokugqibeleleyo ngenkqubo yesiselo esinzulu kwiwayini zaseJamani. Ungeniso lwama- $ 23- $ 46.

Indawo yokutyela : Kwindawo yokutyela eneenkwenkwezi ezintathu eMicrosoft eBavaria, ungonwabela ukutya okunefuthe kwingingqi kwigumbi lokutyela langoku. Ukungcamla iimenyu ukusuka kwi- $ 266.

Imisebenzi

Ibhotwe laseLinderhof : Nangona iVenus Grotto edumileyo ivaliwe ukuze ibuyiselwe, iigadi ezisemthethweni ezijikeleze le Rococo yenkulungwane ye-19 schloss kwiiBavaria Alps ziyanyanzela njengamagumbi angaphakathi. Amatikiti avela $ 10.

Wallberg : Ukongeza eJamani & apos; eyona ndawo inde yokubaleka, le ntaba ibanga imibono engenakuthelekiswa nanto yedolophu kunye nechibi elingezantsi. Thatha i-gondola up nangaliphi na ixesha lonyaka xa ujonga iipanorama zeAlpine. Phakamisa amatikiti ukusuka kwi- $ 12.

Zugspitze : Phantse i-10,000 yeenyawo ngaphezulu komphakamo wolwandle, ilizwe kunye neepos; eyona ndawo iphakamileyo inika ithuba lokujikeleza unyaka wonke kwikhephu lendalo- kunye nezixhobo eziqeshisayo, iivenkile zokutyela, kunye nobutyebi bezixhobo. Phakamisa amatikiti ukusuka kwi- $ 52.