Akululanga ukuya ePapua New Guinea. Ezona mpawu zenza ukuba ilizwe libe nomtsalane kangako kubahloli bamazwe-ubuhle bayo bendalo obungagungqiyo, inkcubeko yemveli ekhulayo, ukungabikho kwezibonelelo zoncedo-yiyo kanye into eyenza ukuba ibe yindawo enomdla. Izikhokelo zohambo zikarhulumente wase-Australia zelinye ilizwe zilumkisa malunga nesoyikiso sezibetho zebhayibhile nezanamhlanje: Ukwehla komhlaba! Ukudityaniswa kweemoto! Ubundlobongela bemigulukudu! Inyoka enobuhlungu! Izidubedube zasekuhlaleni!

Isiqingatha esisempuma sesiqithi sesibini ngobukhulu emhlabeni, iPapua New Guinea yafumana udumo kwihlabathi laseNtshona emva kotyelelo luka-Errol Flynn ngo-1927 kwaye wabhengeza ukuba lo mhlaba ngowona thando lwakhe lukhulu. Ngo-1930, ngelixa bekhangela igolide, abazalwana base-Australia uMick noDan Leahy bafumanisa isigidi sabantu abahlala bodwa kwiindawo ezihlambulukileyo ze-Highland. Ngaphambili bekucingelwa ukuba ayinabemi, eneneni yayiyeyona ndawo inabantu abaninzi — into enkulu efunyaniswe ngabantu. Lilonke, iPapua New Guinea yenye yezona ndawo zintlobo-ntlobo zeenkcubeko kunye neelwimi zehlabathi, ezineelwimi ezingaphezu kwe-800 zomthonyama, okanye iipesenti ezingama-25 zeelwimi ezithethwayo emhlabeni.

Indawo ka-Amelia Earhart yokubhabha inqwelomoya yokugqibela kunye nokunyamalala kuka-1961 kuka-Michael Rockefeller, oneminyaka engama-23 nonyana werhuluneli yase-New York uNelson Rockefeller, ilizwe lihleli lingene kwimbali, imfihlakalo, kunye neentsomi zokuba, ubuncinci kum, , ngaphezulu kweengozi ezinokubakho. Ngobume bayo obahlukileyo, iintaka ezininzi kunye neenkcubeko zemveli, i-PNG kwakusele kukudala ndicinga.

Umlingane wam endandihamba naye uGeorge safika ePort Moresby, ikomkhulu lothuli lasePapua New Guinea, ngoNovemba ophelileyo, emva kohambo lweeyure ezingama-25 ukusuka eLos Angeles. Emva kokundwendwela iMyuziyam kaZwelonke, iNdlu yePalamente, kunye neegadi zezityalo ezigcinwe kakuhle, siye sahamba saya kwiDolophu ekuMazantsi e-Mount Hagen, ejonge i-Waghi Valley, ibhaskithi yokutya ye-PNG kunye nekhaya labantu baseMelpa. Indiza yethu yayimiselwe ngu Uhambo luka-Audley , ephethe yonke into emva kokuba sifikile kwiPNG. (Ukuhamba ngaphandle kwearhente yengingqi akukwaziswa kweli lizwe ngenxa yokuntsokotha kohambo lwasekhaya, kubandakanya nokungabikho kwezibonelelo, iifowuni kunye nombane kwiindawo ezingaphandle kwekomkhulu.) Izivumelwano zika-Audley kunye nommeli omkhulu wePNG, iTransNiuginiTours, eyayilungiselela konke ukuhamba ngenqwelomoya kwasekhaya, konke ukutshintshela, zonke iindawo zokuhlala (kubandakanya ukutya), kunye nezikhokelo zasekuhlaleni zokuthetha isiNgesi.

Nangona ndandivile amabali ahlukeneyo malunga nePNG's iraskols -Iilumum-kwaye kwabakho uqhushululu olukhulu eLae kuhambo lwethu lweentsuku ezisithoba, ndandinomzuzu omnye kuphela we-yikes-that-was-close. Ngelixa sihamba kwimarike yangaphandle yeHagen, apho kuboniswe khona iinwele ze-possum, iimbewu, icuba, kunye nemifuno, indoda yarhalela isipaji sam esincinci se-canvas. Ngethamsanqa, ndikhawulezile ndaza ndatyibilika. Abantu bendawo abajonga umzamo wokuba lisela bambetha kakubi apho. Emva kwexesha ndiye ndafumanisa ukuba ukhuseleko lufikile kwaye ndaqhubeka nokumphulula loo mntu. Ukunikela ubungqina kulo mboniso wobulungisa obungenamkhethe yayingumzuzu ongaqhelekanga, onamandla.

Indawo eyahluke mpela yavela kumgama oziikhilomitha ezimbalwa, kwilali yasePulga, apho abafana abakwisizwe saseWurup, imizimba yabo igutyungelwe ludongwe olumhlophe kunye nenye into exabisekileyo, banxibe iimaski ezinzima zeekheram kwaye badanisa ecaleni kwamatriarch phakathi kwamagqabi akweleenjiko. Nangona uninzi lwabantu baseMelanesia bangamaKristu ngoku, apha, uYesu ukhona kwi-animism kunye ne-animism, ukunqula izinyanya, ixabiso lentombi (oko kukuthi, iihagu neKina, ilizwe kunye nemali ye-apos), isithembu, haus amatambara -Izindlu zomoya-kunye nesiko lokwenzakalisa umzimba.

Kwindawo yokuhlala abantu abahlanu, ngo-1973 uBeechcraft Baron waqhutywa ngu-Aussie wase-septuagenarian ogama linguBob, sahamba saya emantla-ntshona, safika kwinqwelomoya emxinwa, engenakufaneka, enengca ezinyaweni ezingama-300 ukusuka kuMlambo iKarawari, umzila weSepik enamandla. Eli hlathi linamahlathi ashinyeneyo kwiphondo laseMpuma Sepik kumazantsi enduli likude lee kwigridi njengoko unokucinga.

Sahamba ngodaka saya emlanjeni, apho ipontion yayilindile kunye nomkhokeli wethu uPaul, ilungu lesizwe saseKarum kwilali ekufuphi yaseYimas. Ngelixa sasinyusa umlambo, sadlula kwizindlu ezimbalwa ezazineentente, amakhaya amafama aziphilisa ahlala kwiintsapho zawo. La maqela akhona engenampembelelo yangaphandle-ngaphandle kwabahambi abanesibindi-ngokuchanekileyo njengoko benjalo kwizizukulwana.

Emva kwemizuzu engamashumi amabini, ipontoon yamisa edolophini kwaye uArgus, umphathi wegumbi elinamagumbi ali-12 eKarawari Lodge, wasiqhuba ngemizuzu eli-10 senyuka kwindlela enamagingxigingxi, engcolileyo kwindawo evulekileyo, ehleli abantu abangama-1990 eLandy eyayibonakala ngathi ingumlo wemfazwe ngaphezu kwelori. Amagumbi ethu ajongene nomlambo, kwaye ngelixa sasisitya isidlo sasemini kunye nolunye undwendwe, umhlohli waseOstreliya, intle enkulu, enkulu yexilongo ebizwa ngokuba nguJonny onwabile onwabile kwiveranda, ekugqibeleni saunter ngaphakathi ukusimanya.

Ngaphesheya komlambo kwakukho ilali yaseKundiman, ehlala uhlanga lwamaYokoium. Amadoda agqunywe ngodongwe olumhlophe kwaye aqunqa i-sago — umhlaba kunye nesitashi esikhuhliweyo kunye nokutya kwabo okuyintloko-kwaye abafazi basimemela kwibala labo elivulekileyo, apho bapheka isaga kunye nesityu seentlanzi zasemlanjeni. Abafazi bebenganxibanga, abanye babo bencancisa. Ngaphandle kodongwe, amadoda ayehombise ngamagqabi kuphela, iintsiba kunye namathambo omthondo. Kwelinye icala, sasigqunywe entloko nakubhontsi kwimizamo yokuqhwalela yokuthintela eso sifo iinat-nat (iingcongconi).

Kwidolophana nganye ebesiyityelela, bekukho inkitha yabantwana abahamba isikolo. Urhulumente-kubandakanya irhuluneli yephondo ebukekayo endithe ndadlan 'indlebe no-Paias Wingti-uqhayisa ngokuba ama-92 eepesenti abantwana abasesikolweni bafunda kumabanga aphantsi. Nangona kunjalo, imfundo, nokuba yeyokuqala, ayinyanzelekanga. Iinkcukacha-manani zemibutho yamanye amazwe ziqinisekisa ukuba amanani angokoqobo angaphantsi kakhulu, kwaye ngaphezulu kwesinye kwisithathu sabantu (i-UNICEF iingxelo Iipesenti ezingama-37.6) akafundanga. Ngokuphindaphindiweyo, ndaxelelwa ukuba ootitshala bezikolo zikarhulumente zange bahlawulwe kwaye babetelekele ukusukela ngoSeptemba, xa iimali zikarhulumente zazidiniwe kukuthatha inxaxheba kwePNG kwimidlalo yoMzantsi Pasifiki.

Ngobo busuku, ubuthongo babulungile, unikwe ubushushu obuziidigri ezingama-90, ukuthintela ukufuma, intsimbi yesibini enethayo, ihlathi eliqhubekayo elinamandla, kunye neenanati ezixhaphakileyo. Ekuseni, emva kokuba simkile kwilali yaseManjami, senyuka saya kumda welali iKonmae. Imithi eluhlaza kunye nomda obonakala ngathi awunasiphelo wolule kude kube ngamehlo. Intombazana ekwishumi elivisayo ihamba ngephenyane elihonjiswe ngepusi — umbala omnyama wobusi — phezu kwentloko yayo. Njengoko ipontion yethu idlulayo, i-cuscus yahamba yaya egxalabeni lakhe, ndambona emqolo, egqunywe ziingceba ezisikwa ziingwenya: inzonzobila enzulu, isiko elenziwa xa ufikisa ukubonisa ubuhlanga. Umxube wodongwe olumhlophe kunye neoyile yomthi weTigaso ufakwa emanxebeni ngexesha lokusika ukukhuthaza ukwenziwa kweekeloid.

Emva kwesidlo sasemini kwiponti, simise kwilali yaseTanganbit, kwikhaya lesizwe saseAlamblack. Ngokwesiko babizwa ngokuba yiKombrop, abantu baseAlamblack babengabantu abaziwayo bokuzingela iintloko kunye nabahlali emqolombeni, kodwa ngo-1959 abantu base-Australia babanyanzela ukuba bahambe ngasemlanjeni. Njengomfazi wasemzini, ndavunyelwa ukungena kwabo haus tambaran (abafazi bomthonyama abavumelekanga ukuba bangene) kwaye apho, bekrojiswe ngengubo, babeluluhlu lweengqayi zabantu.

Ukubuyela emva kwexesha kwindawo yokulala, bendineshawa ebandayo kunye nebhiya efudumeleyo. Ngendikhethe ukuba la maqondo obushushu abuyiselwe umva, kodwa loo bhiya ifudumeleyo ingcamle njengecognac entle.

Ukuhamba ngenqwelomoya kumazantsi mpuma kunye namafu anzima ngosuku olulandelayo, uKapteni Bob wathatha i-Beechcraft ukuya kwii-13,000 iinyawo. Ingxolo enkulu yentliziyo yam yandiphazamisa kwiindawo ezintle. Ekugqibeleni safika kwiphondo laseHela elikude kakhulu kunye nekomkhulu lalo elincinci, iTari. Imizuzu engamashumi amane ukuphakama kweHighlands Highway yasizisa ekuhlaleni kwethu, iTari Lodge, eyathi yanika imibono ngeTari Basin.

Emva kwexesha, saya kukhangela iintaka-zeparadesi, eyaziwayo iphondo. Emva kokudlula ingxangxasi enkulu, sabetha ubumdaka bokuhlawula, sibona intaka eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka-yeparadesi kunye noKumkani waseSaxony enamaphiko amade amade.

Kwilali encinci yaseTigibi, sadibana neNkosi Tumbu, eyayinxibe ngodongwe lobuso obomvu, mthubi, nobumhlophe, iwigi, iintsiba ze-cassowary ezininzi, amabamba ehagu, oonokrwece kunye nokugqojozwa kwe-septum. Wayeqhayisa ngabafazi bakhe abathathu nabantwana bakhe abalishumi, ebonisa isikhundla sakhe esiphakamileyo sobuzwe. Ngokwahlukileyo koko, isikhokelo sethu ngakumlambo iHulia, umfazi oqhawule umtshato nabakwishumi elivisayo, wathetha ngokubuyisela ikhazi kumyeni wakhe, ukuze ahambe kwaye athenge omnye umfazi.

Mhlawumbi eyona lali ibalaseleyo besindwendwele kuyo yayiyiPoroiba Akau, apho inkosi yaseKubumu kunye nengcali yeewigi uNabeta basibonise indlela ezikhuliswa ngayo, ezisikiweyo nezihonjiswe ngayo iiwigi ezenziwe ngabantu. I-Huli Wigmen ihlakulela iinwele zayo, kwaye xa ikhule ngokwaneleyo, iyachetywa, ihonjisiwe, ize inxitywe ngumlimi. Yibheji enkulu yembeko ukunxiba i-wig yeenwele zakho.

Amadoda angatshatanga enza ezi wigi zihlala kunye zodwa iinyanga ezili-18, zigcina amasiko, zitya ukutya okhethekileyo, kwaye zenza umlingo wokuqhubela phambili ukukhula kweenwele. Nje ukuba i-wig yabo igqityiwe, amadoda abuyela kwilali yabo ukuba atshate, okanye bahlala ezinye iinyanga ezili-18 kwaye bakhule enye iwigi ukuze bayithengise.

Ndaye ndaya kwi-PNG ukuze ndibone ubomi obungenakutshintshwa lixesha langoku, kwaye ilizwe alizange liphoxeke. Ngokwesiko labo kunye nokuhomba kwabo abantu basePapu banesitshixo kubomi babo obudlulileyo. Ukuhamba apho kunokudandathekisa ngamanye amaxesha, kodwa xa ndibuzwa ukuba ndingabuya na, impendulo yam ihlala ifana: ngokuqinisekileyo.

Indlela yokufika apho

Ukusuka kwi-LAX, inkonzo yokudibanisa (utshintsho lweenqwelomoya) ukuya ePort Moresby, ePapua New Guinea, inikezelwa kwiCathay Pacific ngeHong Kong, eSingapore Air ngeSingapore, okanye ngeQuantas ngeBrisbane, edibanisa neAir Niugini. Ukuthintelwa, uhambo lokuhamba ngenqwelomoya luqala kwi- $ 2,165, kubandakanya irhafu kunye nemirhumo. Uhambo lomoya lwasekhaya lulungiswe kakuhle ngumqhubi wabakhenkethi okanye iarhente yomhlaba yommandla.

Abakhenkethi baseKhaya

Iintsuku ezilithoba zokutyelela kunye no-Audley ziqala kwi- $ 6,950. Isiko elide Uhambo luka-Audley ziyafumaneka. Kulabo abanomdla kwi-snorkeling emangalisayo kunye ne-scuba diving enikezelwa yi-PNG (kubandakanya ukudilika phakathi kweWWII), ngoSeptemba 2016 Ukuhamba ngeenqanawa eSilversea ubonelela ngohambo lweentsuku ezili-14 oluza kutyelela imimandla eli-12 yePNG ecaleni kweBismarck Archipelago.

Uhlala phi

Ihotele yomoya
IJackson International Airport, iJacksons Parade, iPort Moresby, 121. Ihotele engaqhelekanga, enezinto zokuhamba ngenqwelomoya ezinokhuseleko olunzima, indawo entle yedike, kunye neembono ezintle zeenqwelo moya ezikufutshane, thabatha ingxolo. Cela igumbi kwiphiko elitsha.

URondon Ridge
Ifumaneka malunga neyure ukusuka kwisiXeko seNtaba iHagen, le ndawo yokulala ikwi-7,100 yeenyawo ngaphezulu komgangatho wolwandle kunye neembono zeWaghi Valley kunye nombane wayo wombane kunye nonikezelo lwamanzi.

IKarawari Lodge
Indawo yokulala enamagumbi angama-20 ibekwe kummango kwindawo enkulu eshinyeneyo, emahlathini asezantsi, eneembono zoMlambo iKarawari. Umbane wombane ujike ucinywe ngentsimbi yeshumi ebusuku Akukho moya womoya, iifowuni, okanye inkonzo ye-intanethi.

I-Ambua Lodge
Ifumaneka kwiphondo laseHela, le ndawo inegumbi lokulala engama-56 iphakame kangangeenyawo ezingama-7,000 ngaphezulu komgangatho wolwandle kunye neembono zeTari Valley kwaye inezityalo zayo zombane. Akukho bushushu kodwa iingubo zombane zibonelelwa, kwaye akukho fowuni.

Shiya ekhaya

Ijini eblue kunye nezinye iimpahla ezimnyama, ezitsala iingcongconi kunye nezinye izinambuzane, iimpuku kunye nezilwanyana. Kwakhona, shiya bonke ubucwebe, iimpahla zokunxiba kunye nezinto zokwenza ekhaya. Cinga into eluncedo, hayi ifashoni. Yiza netotshi efanelekileyo yokuhamba njengoko umbane ucinyiwe ebusuku kwiindawo ezininzi zokulala, kunye nezinye izihlangu zokuhamba (udaka luxhaphakile).

Iiplanethi zokukhanya, ezinikezela iinkonzo kwiindawo ezikude, zinobunzima obungama-22 eepawundi, kunye nokuqhubeka okuncinci kakhulu. Impahla inokugcinwa de ibuye kwiihotele zasePort Moresby. Uninzi lweendawo zokulala zinenkonzo yokuhlamba ephantsi; Iinguqu ezimbini okanye ezintathu zeempahla ziya kwanela.

Ukufunda ngakumbi

Umzi woonozakuzaku basePapua New Guinea, info@pngembassy.org (202) 745-3680.

Ngolwazi ngokubanzi kunye nokucwangciswa kohambo, www.papuanewguinea.travel/usa