ITurku, eFinland, yindawo ethe cwaka. Kuze amaRussia ahambise ikomkhulu lakhe eHelsinki ngo-1812, iTurku yanandipha iinkulungwane ezintandathu ezilungileyo njengeyona dolophu ibalulekileyo eFinland. Kodwa kwezi ntsuku, yidolophu yabakhi beenqanawa kunye nabafundi baseyunivesithi, abaziwa ngenqaba yayo yamaxesha aphakathi kwaye ngakumbi kufutshane nendawo enkulu yeziqithi zeBaltic, apho uninzi lwaseFinland lusehlotyeni.
NdiseTurku ngezizathu zejografi. Ukusa ulwandle eFinland & apos; kumazantsi mpuma onxweme, le dolophu imalunga nentshona yelizwe njengoko unokuhamba ngaphandle kokutsiba isikhephe. Ndikunye nomhlobo wam uJason ekhwele umpu, ndiceba ukuqhuba ngasempuma ndinqumle iFinland-ndilandele indlela eyaziwa njenge-King & apos Road-ngaphaya komda oya eRashiya, siqhubeke siye eSt.Petersburg naseMoscow, oomama baseRashiya kunye neenqanawa ezindala kunye entsha. Ndiyayithanda iScandinavia, kunye notyekelo lwayo lwenkululeko, ukugcina umthetho, kunye noyilo lwefanitshala olugqwesileyo, kunye nokudibanisa loo mava kunye nokuchasene kwawo okupheleleyo-uhambo ngemoto oluya eRashiya, iWild West ekhulayo yelizwe endikhuliswe kuloyiko- Kulungile, eso sisifundo ngokuchaseneyo okumangalisa kakhulu ukuba ungadlula. Indlela ye-King & apos; iya kubonelela ngekhonkco elifanelekileyo lokubaliswa.
Le ndlela, ngokuthetha ngokubanzi, yileya yokuba ookumkani baseSweden baphange bangena ngasempuma bangena eRussia, kwaye apho abalawuli baseRussia baphanga babuyela umva emva kokulingana kwamandla ombuso. Ngoku iphakanyiswe kakhulu yibhodi yabakhenkethi eFinland, iNdlela yeNdlela yeNdlela isolula ukusuka kunxweme lwasentshona ukuya kumda wayo waseRussia. Kukho izicwangciso zokuba amaRashiya andise indlela njengendlela esemthethweni yabakhenkethi ukuya eSt. Petersburg, kodwa iRussia inezinto ezizizigidi kuluhlu lwazo lwasemva kweSoviet (ukucola urhwaphilizo, ukwakha iindlela ezihloniphekileyo, ukukhusela izixhobo zenyukliya iicache) kunye nokwenza iincwadana ezinemifanekiso zendlela yohambo lwendlela kusenokwenzeka ukuba ayizizo kufutshane nomphezulu wayo.
Kudala sahlala eTurku ukungenisa imo yabantu bamandulo-kunye nokutya i-moose casserole kwivenkile yokutyela ye-Angels, apho i-waitress yethu yasinika iiglasi ze-glogg, iwayini yesintu egugileyo ebusika, ngaphambi kokuba nathi sityhile i-napkin. ITurku ilikhaya eFinland & apos; s National Cathedral nakwinqaba yayo yakudala yamaxesha aphakathi, omabini la maxesha abephakathi kwinkulungwane ye-13. I-castle (eyonakaliswe amatyeli amaninzi, ngoku kutsha nje ngeebhombu zaseRussia ngexesha leMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi) iyagobhoza kwaye igcinwe kakuhle-kwaye, njengowayesakuba ngoyintandokazi yookumkani baseSweden, yenza incwadi elungileyo yasentshona kolu hambo.
Ngokwenyani, iKing & apos 's' Road 'yindlela eyiyo, edityaniswe kunye ukusuka kwimbali, ukuva, kunye noohola bendlela, kodwa rhoqo ukusuka kwiindlela, ezithi zijikeleze ipayini kunye ne-white-birch ye-ests kunye nemida enodaka kunye ne-Nordic A-izakhelo, i-manors yelizwe kunye neecawa zamatye Inokwenzeka ukuba ilandela indlela yakudala yeposi yasebukhosini: iya kuchaza ukuba kutheni ihamba rhoqo kwiilali zelizwe eliqhelekileyo. Kwiisuntswana leemayile ngaphandle kweTurku, idibana neFinland kunye ne-apos; uhola wendlela ophambili, umgaqo ococekileyo obizwa ngokuba yi-E18 oxhonywe kakhulu ngumoya- kunye neqondo lobushushu bendlela kunye neempawu ezimnyama zokuwela i-moose.
UTommi Karjalainen, umhlali waseTurku owasisa kwiiNgelosi kubusuku obudlulileyo, wayesilumkisile malunga ne-moose: ngeli xesha lokuzingela, izilwanyana ziyaphazamiseka kwaye zihlala zihamba. Kuba bendisitya i-moose xa ndisitya isidlo sangokuhlwa kwaye ke ndisoyika impindezelo ye-karmic, kwaye ngenxa yokuba zonke iimayile ezimbalwa kukho isilhouette emhlophe ye-moose enestensu endleleni, ndiqhuba ngononophelo-ngononophelo olukhulu-kwaye siya eHelsinki ngaphandle kokubona.
Kuyatshiwo ukuba ukuya kuthi ga kwiipesenti ezingama-80 zabantu baseFinland banee-sauna emakhayeni abo, nto leyo evakalayo: bayile izinto, kwaye ilizwe labo libanda kakhulu. USeppo Pukkila, umfoti waseHelsinki kunye nelungu lebhodi yoMbutho waseFinland Sauna, odibana kwindlu yeklabhu ethe nca kwisiqithi saseHelsinki kunye neapos; sbingelela mna noJason kwigumbi lokutshixela sinxibe itawuli kuphela. Sasixoxile malunga nokuba sizise iisuti zokuqubha okanye hayi, kwaye oku kubonakala ngathi kuqinisekisa ukuba isigqibo sethu-hayi-sisilungile.
'Zimbini iintlobo zeetawuli kwi-sauna, utshilo uSeppo. 'Le inkulu, uyinxiba kwiindawo eziqhelekileyo, kwaye incinci uhlala kuyo kwii-sauna ukunqanda iesile lakho lingatshi.' Ndilaqaze itawuli yokuhlamba. 'EFinland, asinangxaki ngobunqunu,' utshilo, kwaye usinika iitawuli ezimbini malunga nobukhulu bezitya. 'Khulula iimpahla zakho.' Kungekudala, sihleli ngaphakathi kwigumbi elimnyama elikhanyiswe yifestile encinci kwaye linobumba kwakhona ngomthi otshisiweyo. Le yindawo yokusa umsi, lolona hlobo lwesintu, kwaye zona zichaneke ngakumbi kunaleyo ye-Ikea-style pine oyifumana kwiklabhu yezempilo. Umbutho weSauna luhlobo lweklabhu yelizwe apho uya khona ukubila kwezemidlalo.
Ukuhlala usijikeleze kumanqanaba amabini eebhentshi isilayi esinqunu seFinland kunye neapos; s ephezulu. Xa liphuma egumbini, elinye ilungu lifaka idreyini kwibhakethi lamanzi lize liyilahle esitovini, livelise umphunga omtsha. Kukho umlo kwaye phantse kwangoko ulusu lwam luziva ngathi luthambile, umqala wam womile kwaye amehlo am aqala amanzi. Ubushushu buyanda kwaye iFinland iyayithanda. USeppo uthi yena kunye nezinye iindawo zokufa babenomncintiswano wokubona ukuba ngubani onokuhlala kwi-sauna ngawona manqwanqwa aphezulu amanzi. Waphosa itawuli yakhe encinci nge-13; ophumeleleyo ugqithile kwi-15.
Emva kwesinye, mna noJason siqala ukuthanda.
Xa uncokola nabaninzi uFinn malunga nento oyenzileyo ngelixa undwendwele ilizwe, uya kubuza ukuba uyonwabele i-sauna. Kwaye kude kube ndide ndibenayo into endiyibonayo: ecaleni kweNdlela yaseKing & apos, yonke indlu yasefama, indlu yelizwe, kunye nendlu yendlu inesakhiwo esincinci somthi ngasemva kunye netshimini ekhupha umphunga.
Ngaphandle kweHelsinki, izinto ziphinda zibuyele ezilalini ngokukhawuleza. Indlela ye-King & apos iyagudla unxweme, isenza amaluphu amancinci asendleleni enkulu esithumela kwiilali nakwiidolophu zasefama. Umntwana oposta ngobunewunewu ngokungathandabuzekiyo yiPorvoo, eyona dolophu igcinwe kakuhle eFinland. Oovimba abomvu bagcwele uMlambo iPorvoo, belinde amaphenyane anezinto ezivela kuLwandle lweBaltic, kunye nezitrato ezinamatye anqabileyo zinyuka zenyuka intaba zisiya edolophini.
Silala kwisixeko saseKotka silele, emva koko sigubungela indawo entle, ebandakanya iikhilomitha ezingama-20 kwiindlela zomhlaba ezimdaka ngehlathi lepayini elimanzi, ukuya kumda waseRussia, uhambo lwethu sisiqingatha nje kuphela. Iinqaba ezinkulu zoonogada ziyasala, intsalela yexesha apho le yayiyindawo enzima kakhulu yokuwela, eyona ndawo kanye apho iNtshona yaba Mpuma. Andilindelanga ukuba uhambo lwethu lungabinamthungo, kwaye ayizizo iiapos. Wonke umntu wayendiqinisekisile ukuba oonogada bomda waseRussia bathetha isiNgesi. Abenzi, kwaye bahlala bebonelela ngeefom zesiko ngesiNgesi. Ndichitha ubuncinci imizuzu eli-15 ndisebenzisa into engenamsebenzi kwibhokisi egcwele oonogada abangenakushukunyiswa ngaphambi kokuba kubekho umguquleli kwaye siyavulwa eRashiya.
Utshintsho kwiimvakalelo kwangoko. Ipavumente yinqunqa, ubunzima obugqithisileyo, kwaye igxalaba le-M10 ligutyungelwe macala omabini ziikomityi, iibhegi, kunye nezinye iitritus zabantu. Kunganzima ukufumana indawo etshayiweyo elahliweyo eFinland, ilizwe eligcina umthetho kangangokuba xa uwela ngokuchasene neDon & apos; t Walk sign you & apos; ngokucacileyo ngumkhenkethi.
Silumkisiwe (kaninzi) ukuba sibukele amapolisa ezendlela akhoyo kuyo yonke indawo, aziwa ngokuhlukumeza abantu bamanye amazwe nokubakhulula kwisohlwayo esiqatha. Abaphumeleli, nangona kunjalo, baphumelele ekuphazamiseni iRussia kunye ne-apos; umkhosi othutha idizili weelori kunye neLadas, bonke bayakuvuyela ukusidlulisa phantse kuwo onke amathuba-ajikelezayo, nezinye iimoto zihlangana nabo, kwaye kwelinye icala igxalaba lokungcola.
Emva kwexesha elingaphantsi kweyure yokuqhekeza, ukuluka, ukuhlaba, kunye nokuthandaza, ndiye ndazibandakanya kulo mdlalo wegazi we-byzantine, ndiqonda ukuba andiyidlali ngokwam, iya kusithatha iiyure ezili-10 ukugubungela iimayile ezili-155 ukuya Petersburg. E-Finland, iindlela zihamba kakuhle kangangokuba ungahamba ngemoto eyenziwe nge porcelain; Oohola bendlela baseRussia ngamathuba athile kuphela banamacandelo endlela egudileyo, kwaye okokuqala ndiziva ndifanelekile ngokukhetha iLand Rover yohambo. Nangona ingeyiyo eyona moto yokuyila emva kweMercedeses enefestile ezimnyama ezihlala zikhaba uthuli ebusweni bam, iLand Rover iginya indlela yaseRussia.
Indlela ifile ithe tye kweli cala lomda, njengoko utshintsho lwendawo luvela kwipine enkulu kunye namahlathi e-birch ukuya emasimini alala phantsi. Njengomlambo we-blacktop, i-M10 yenza isitrato esikhulu sedolophu emva kwedolophu yaso yayikade intle, ngoku idiliza amakhaya abalimi. Ecaleni kwendlela, abasetyhini kwi-babushka-isityhilelo: ayisiyontsomi-bathengisa i-beet kunye neetapile, iimbiza zekofu etshisayo, oonodoli, kwaye, ngokumangalisayo, iitawuli zaselwandle, ezixhonywe kwii-tos ezibuthathaka.
Ngaphandle kweSt. Petersburg, iidachas ezindala ezintle zithambekile kwaye zisongela ukuwa. Iingcingo zifakelwe ngokungekho semthethweni kwimigca yombane ezibaleka zinqumla indlela nasezihokweni. Ezi meko ziyaqhubeka ukuya kuthi ga kumda wedolophu, apho izakhiwo zeflethi ziqala ukubonakala kwaye zilayishe indlela de isiXeko esidala sizityhile.
UCzar Peter Omkhulu kunye nesilingo esibukhali sibambe ngokumangalisayo. Kwiminyaka emibini eyadlulayo, iSt. Petersburg yabhiyozela iminyaka engama-300 izelwe, kwaye uMongameli Putin akazange achithe xesha ukuze aqhekeze lo mmangaliso wokwakha. Uninzi lwedolophu & apos; ngaphezu kwamabhotwe aliwaka afumene iidyasi ezintsha (ikakhulu ezityheli) ipeyinti, kunye nesigcawu segolide sikaPeter noPaul neenqaba kwiNeva River glimmer, nakwisibane esingwevu esikwenza uzive ngathi kwakusoloko kusemva kwemini.
Ngesihlanu, thina & apos sivavanye kwihotele i-Astoria kwaye silungiselela, ngozuko lwendlela, ukuba sidle njengookumkani kwiGrand Hotel yaseYurophu & apos; s Caviar Bar, igumbi lokuhlala kunye nokutya okungenasiphako kunye nemvumi yegumbi lokuphumla esele likruqukile Phambi kokuba sigqibe isitya sethu sokuqala se-beluga-ingxaki esonjululwa ngokulula ngokunyusa ukusetyenziswa kweRussian Standard Vodka.
Kwaye silala njengookumkani.
Ukuba ufuna ukufumana ubuchwephesha, iKing & apos; Road iphela eSt. Petersburg, ifestile kaPeter Omkhulu kunye ne-apos; eYurophu 'kunye nesihlalo samandla apho ii-czars ezalandelayo zilawula eFinland. Kodwa ukusukela ukuba amaRussia azange azikhathaze ngokukhwela iTreyini yoKhenketho lweNdlela, ndigqibe kwelokuba ndizongeze ngokwam, ndityhalele ezinye iimayile ezingama-400, ndiye eMoscow, ndimise eTver, apho uCatherine Omkhulu wayesebenzisa khona ukuphumla ngelixa usenza uhambo olufanayo.
U-Lenin ubuyisele ikomkhulu eMoscow ukongeza umgama oxabisekileyo ukusuka eJamani, iqhinga elingqine ukuba liyisazi. Emva kokuguqula uStalin, uHitler kunye nomatshini wakhe wemfazwe batyhafiswa bubusika obunoburhalarhume malunga neekhilomitha ezili-19 ngaphandle kwekomkhulu elihambileyo, ngaphesheya kwento namhlanje eyiSikhululo sokugcwalisa iBP Connect kunye nemini-mart. I-Soviets zakha i-monolith yesikhumbuzo apho, iphakamisela esibhakabhakeni esingwevu, ijikelezwe ziindonga ezingwevu ezihonjiswe ngobuso bejoni lase-Russia elingenantlonelo kunye nemihla ye-1941-1945, eyaziwa ngamaRussia njengeMfazwe ePhambili yePatriotic.
Ngaphambili kwesikhumbuzo, uninzi lwamadlelo amadala aseSoviet agudle indlela. Iibhloko ezinkulu zekhonkrithi ezihonjiswe ngebali kwibali leeveranda ezincinci ezigutyungelwe ngokuxhoma iimpahla. Ngaphaya kwabo, indlela iya banzi. Enye i-BP, isikhululo seShell, emva koko enkulu-kwaye imbi kakhulu-ezemidlalo ezibonakala ngathi ziyilelwe ngumhlobisi osetyiweyo osele eLost in Space. Emva koko indlela iyaphucuka, ukuxinana kwesakhiwo kuyaqina, kwaye iivenkile zaseNtshona ziqala ukuvela kumacala omabini endlela, amagama abo aguqulelwe kwisiCyrillic.
Okokugqibela, ngaphambili, izangqa ezibomvu kunye nodonga lwezitena lweKremlin-entle ngakumbi kunam. Ngokweemephu, indawo esiya kuyo, ihotele yeSizwe, kufuneka ibelapha, emazantsi eTverskaya, kwisithunzi seendonga zaseKremlin. Sifikile apha ngaphandle kokuthetha isiRashiya, kwaye ukuphosa ihotele, embindini wale nto inkulu, isasazekayo yamandla angaphandle, ephithizela ngothutho kunye namapolisa ezendlela, kuya kuba, kulungile ... kodwa loo & ampos; ecaleni kwendawo-- siyayikhumbula. Ukubanjwa kukudumba kweeteksi kunye neebhasi, sityhala ngasekhohlo, kwaye ndinokuza nesicwangciso esinye kuphela. 'Kulungile, mhlobo wam,' nditsho. 'Thina & apos; kuya kufuneka sijikeleze iKremlin.'
UJason uyahleka. 'Oko kuya kuba kokokuqala ukuba nabani na athethe la mazwi.'
Sijikeleza kakuhle de iindonga zaseKremlin zisikhokelele kuMlambo iMoscow, ekufuneka siwele kuwo, emva koko izinto zincamathele. Ndijika ngendlela engeyiyo, emva koko woyike kwaye utshale u-U. Uluvo olubi.
Senze yonke indlela eya eMoscow ngaphandle kokumiswa, sidlula ubuncinci iindawo zokujonga ezingama-50 kunye nemigibe yesantya emininzi, kwaye ngoku ndibona izibane eziluhlaza kwisipili esingasemva. I & apos; sesilumkisiwe ukuba singahlali emotweni kwaye silinde ukuba sisondele. Amapolisa aseRussia akubona njengophawu lwentlonipho ukuba uyaphuma uze kubo, ke ndavula ucango ndangena kwiLada, ndinikezela ngephepha lam. 'IsiNgesi sam,' utshilo. 'Imbi kakhulu.' 'NdinguRashiya,' ndiyaphendula. 'Iyothusa.' Enesitayile kwaye ekhathazekile, ubuyisela amaphepha am kwaye washukumisa isandla sakhe. 'Hamba.'
Kwaye ndiyazi ukuba siza kuyenza. Ngaphandle kwehotele ebalaseleyo yeSizwe, kumakhulu nje ambalwa eeyadi ukusuka emasangweni angena eRed Square, umntu obetha intsimbi ushenxisela ecaleni intambo aze akhombe ilori yethu, emdaka kwiindlela ezimdaka kunye nomsi wedizili, kwindawo ephambili ezinyaweni ezisuka kumnyango wehotele & apos.
Siceba ukubuyela umva kwiLand Rover ngentsasa elandelayo kwaye siqale uhambo lokubuya lweentsuku ezimbini, kodwa njengoko sijonga ibar yehotele kunye neeposi zemigca yevodka entle, kunye neKremlin ebengezelayo ngasemva kwethu kunye nesidlo secaviar kunye neblini ngaphambili kuthi, ingcinga yamapolisa amaninzi, ukujijisana ngakumbi kweLadas, iilori ezijikajikayo konke konke kuthwele kakhulu. Kwaye eMoscow, sisiqhamo esingavumelekanga ixesha elide ...
'Ulapha ubusuku obunye nje?' unobhala wedesika encumile uyasibuza. Njengabafazi abaninzi baseRussia, unobuso obunemodeli.
'Ukude kangakanani nomda?' Ndibuza uJason, ndiyazi impendulo.
'Iikhilomitha ezingama-685 okanye njalo, utshilo.
'Singayenza ngosuku,' nditsho.
Ndijonge phezulu umabhalana. 'Yenza obo busuku babini.'
UJOSH DEAN ubhalele i- Ijenali yamadoda kunye neapos kwaye Amatye agiqekayo.
Ngaphakathi eFinland, iKing & apos; Road iphawulwe kakuhle, ngemiqondiso emdaka ebonisa izithsaba ezityheli (ulwazi kunye neemephu: www.kuninkaantie.net/eng/eng.html ). E-Russia, indlela ayiphawulwanga, kwaye ucetyiswa ngamandla ukuba unamathele kuhola wendlela omkhulu.
Usuku 1
Turku ukuya eHelsinki (Iikhilomitha ezili-125). Thatha i-E18 ukuya eSalo, emva koko ulandele ama-52 emazantsi ukuya eTenala. Yiya empuma kwaye uqhagamshele kunye ne-104 emva kwePohja. Qhubeka ngasemantla edlulileyo iFiskars kwaye ubambe i-186 mpuma mpuma ukuya eMustio, emva koko uthathe ama-25 ukuya eKittila. Yiya empuma uye eSiuntio, emva koko uye emazantsi nge-115, uqhagamshela kwindlela engama-51 empuma, emva koko uye kuma-50, esiba ngumendo u-E18 oya eHelsinki.
Usuku 2
IHelsinki iya eKotka (Iikhilomitha ezili-120). Thatha i-E18 ngaphandle kwedolophu kude kube sePuistola. Thatha i-140 emantla ukuya kwi-152, uye empuma ukuya kwi-142, kwaye uqhubeke empuma uye eSavijarvi. Buyela kwi-E18 kwaye uye eKotka.
Usuku 3
IKotka ukuya eSt (Iikhilomitha ezili-180). Thatha i-E18 uye eHamina, emva koko ubaleke uye emazantsi, ulandele imiqondiso eya eVirolahti (okunye kolu lulo alunatyiwa). Kumda waseRussia, thatha i-M10 kwaye uhambe nayo uye eSt.
Usuku 4
Petersburg ukuya eTver (Iimayile ezingama-280). Phuma esixekweni kumbindi mpuma wedolophu kwi-M10, ixesha elide kwaye ngqo ngqo eTver.
Usuku 5
ITver ukuya eMoscow (Iikhilomitha ezili-120). Ukusuka kumbindi weTver, thatha uhola wendlela omdala waseMoscow ude uqhagamshele kunye neM10, eya kujika ibe yiLeningradskoe Shosse, emva koko iye eTverskaya, isitalato esikhulu sokuthenga, esikhokelela kwiKremlin.
WAHLALA PHI
Ihotele iKämp Helsinki
Pohjoisesplanadi; 358-9 / 576-111; www.hotelkamp.fi ; iphindwe kabini kwiidola ezingama-480.
Ihotele Astoria
I-39 Bolshaya Morskaya, iSt. Petersburg; 7-812 / 313-5757; www.uchuortexut ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-400 yeedola.
Ihotele yaseTver Park
14 IMoscow Hwy .; Ngo-7-0822 / 497-722; www.parkhotel.ru ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi- $ 77.
Ihotele kaZwelonke
1 eMokhovaya, eMoscow; 7-095 / 258-7000; www.magqala.ru ; iphindwe kabini kwiidola ezingama-380.
KUPHI EMAKUTYWE khona
Iingelosi
16 iKauppiaatse, eTurku; 358-2 / 231-8088; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini.
Ibha yeCaviar
Ihotele eNkulu yaseYurophu, i-1-7 Mikhailovskaya, iSt. 7-812 / 329-6651; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-200.
KWENZIWE NTONI
Umbutho waseFinland weSauna
IVaskiniementie, iHelsinki; www.sauna.fi ; Ukugcinwa kweendwendwe kuyafuneka.
Ihotele Astoria
Izinto ezintle zangaphakathi (iipariti phantsi, izindlu zangasese ezimhlophe zemabhile), ejongene neSt. Isaac's Cathedral kwaye ekumgama wokuhamba weMyuziyam yaseRussia.
Igumbi leNcwadi: Cela igumbi elijonge ngaphandle kwi-St. Isaac & apos; s Cathedral.
Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 1,050.