Ngaphandle kweBaltimore, ikota yeekhilomitha ukusuka ekungapheliyo Whoosh kwaye yokulahla I-US Interstate 95, yitafile esekoneni efudumeleyo efudunyezwe lilitha eliseChesapeake Bay. Iiyure ezine kuhambo olusuka kwisiXeko saseNew York ukuya kwidolophu yethu iCharleston, eSouth Carolina, thina & apos; sangena kwiNick & apos; yeNdlu yeNtlanzi ngolona hlobo lokutya kukutya: izitya zomkhenkce zaseMalpeques, iibluepoints, kunye neencinci.

Ngokwesiqhelo, siqhushumbe phantsi kwe-I-95 ngeyure ezili-11 sineendawo ezimbini zokumisa: enye kwisidlo sasemini eSally Bell & apos; ekhitshini eRichmond, eVirginia, kunye neyesibini kwisidlo sangokuhlwa se-barbecue eFuller & apos; eLumberton, North Carolina. Ngeli xesha, thina & apos; sizimisele ukolula uhambo kwiintsuku ezimbalwa, ukubetha izinto esizithandayo kodwa nokukhulisa iindawo ezimbalwa esiziqokelele kuzo & nabahlobo abanamava.

Sifumanise kwiminyaka eyadlulayo ukuba isitshixo sokwenza ulonwabo phakathi kwamazwe kukufumana izinto ezimbalwa eziqinisekileyo-iindawo zokutyela zalapha ekhaya ezinje ngeNick & apos; s kunye neehotele ezizimeleyo ezisebenza kakuhle okanye ezibini- ezilunge ngokulula (okanye phantse njalo) njengeetyathanga eliqhelekileyo kodwa zikwenza uzive ngathi ungene kwindawo yokwenyani yoluntu. Kuwo nawuphi na umdyarho ophakathi, inkuthazo yokuhamba phambili iyaphakama xa ukutya kunye neempembelelo (i-waitress kwaNick & apos; s yeka i-Baltimorean 'hon' njengoko yayisenza iodolo yethu) iqhubeke kunye nokutshintsha komhlaba.

Ukuma okufana noku kuyabuyisela kwimeko yesiqhelo: ukukhathalela iitrektara kunye nokuxinana kwetrafikhi ngandlela thile kubonakala ngathi kuyanyamezeleka xa wena & apos uvele waphefumla enye yezona khekhe zibalaseleyo kubomi bakho — yile nto siyenzileyo kwaNick & apos emva kweembatyisi ezintle nangaphambi kweklasikhi I-Baltimore pit-beef sandwich.

Sidibene kwakhona sabuyela emlanjeni wetela oya eRichmond. Ukolulwa kweemayile ezili-160, edlula eWashington, D.C., kunye namadlelo ayo atsala izithuthi emazantsi, kunokuba yinto ebalulekileyo: kufanelekile, kuthatha iiyure ezi-2/2, kodwa amaxesha akhawulezayo afika ngokukhawuleza. Kolu hambo, sahamba ngenqanawa-ibhonasi, kuba indawo elandelayo yokumisa, uSally Bell & apos; ekhitshini (indawo yokubhaka kuphela), ivala ngokukhawuleza kwii-o & apos ezine; Sibize phambili ukubeka iiodolo zethu zesandwich; iswekile yokutsala kwelinye icala yayiluphawu lokuqala lokuba siwele iMason-Dixon Line.

Ngaphantsi kwemayile ukusuka ku-I-95, uSally Bell kunye neapos; ibhaka kwizakhiwo zonke iintlobo zezonka ezisemazantsi, iipie kunye neekeyiki, kodwa ziibhokisi ezimhlophe zebhokisi yesidlo sasemini, ezibotshwe ngentambo ye-butcher & apos; 10 ubunzulu emini emaqanda.

Ukongeza kukhetho lweesandwich (i-pimento-cheese okanye ii-biscuits zelizwe zilunge kakhulu) kwaye ngaphezulu kweentlobo ezilishumi elinambini zekhekhe, ibhokisi nganye iza ilayishwe isaladi yeetapile, i-cookie ye-cheddar-cheese, kunye ne-deviled iqanda kwi-twist yephepha elixutywe. UMamie Eisenhower, ondoda yakhe eyayisayinela inkqubo ye-interstate kwiminyaka engama-50 eyadlulayo, angazingca.

Ngokwesiqhelo, thina & apos; d sibaleka sibuyele kuhola wendlela, kodwa kolu hambo siqwalasele iRichmond & apos; iJefferson Hotel, iibhloko ezimbalwa ukusuka kwi-I-95. Ihotele enkulu kunye neaposos porte cochère, ebuyiselwe kunye nezinye izakhiwo zemvuselelo yamaMoor ngo-1992, iyazinyaswa ngamanqanaba ee-valets ezinxibe imisila ebomvu, abathi ngobabalo bahoya isinxibo esishwabeneyo sendlela ukuze sihambe-ngo-1969 iDodge Imoto yemisipha yeSuper Bee enepeyinti yobhedu e-sparkle-flake, i-racing racing slicks, kunye namavili e-chrome mag. Siye sayikhupha kumhlobo wethu uZack, onceda ukuqhuba iManhattan Classic Car Club. Isithonga esingeyonyani se-Super Bee sikhupha izandi ezoyikisayo, kodwa sajika sathi saqhekeza umkhenkce-kwaye saba lulutho kubaqhubi abakwindawo engaqhelekanga.

Ngentsasa elandelayo, sashiya iJefferson eluthulini, siziva siphezulu emhlabeni-siphumle ngokugqibeleleyo, sinetanki elipheleleyo leedola ezingama-75 zeSuper malunga neekhilomitha ezili-165 phakathi kwethu kunye nosuku lwasemini kunye noAva Gardner. Inkwenkwezi yesikrini (uyazi, uSinatra kunye nenkosikazi yesibini, uMickey Rooney & apos; IBarefoot Contessa ?) wenyuka esuka eSmithfield, eMantla Carolina (abemi abali-11,702). Idolophu yakhe kunye neemyuziyam zilingana ngokugqibeleleyo, zihloniphekile kwaye ziphefumla kabuhlungu. Uvavanyo lwe-1941 lweAva esencinci, esitsha efama, egxadazela ikhamera, iyodwa ixabisa ixabiso lokwamkelwa, kodwa kunjalo nakwii-portrait ezingama-33 ezifana neoyile kaMagritte zipeyintwe ngumlandeli othe phithi waseHolland.

Iikhilomitha ezimbalwa nje kwicala elingasempuma kuhola wendlela osuka eSmithfield yiHinnant Family Vineyards, mhlawumbi i-winery kuphela esuka eMaine ukuya eMiami eneempawu ezisemthethweni kwi-I-95, kunye nesinye isizathu sokukhetha le ndawo yelanga yeNorth Carolina yokuma emngxunyeni. IiHinnants zikhule iidiliya zaseMuscadine ezithandwayo zase Mzantsi phakathi kwamabala emqhaphu ngaphezulu kweminyaka engama-35. Ngo-2001, bafaka iitanki ezingenazintsimbi kwaye baqala ukwenza iwayini enzulu ngayo — uhlobo lwe-foxy-fresh, i-semisweet yeewayini abemi base Mzantsi abafana nathi abathanda ukusela emva kwemini zasehlotyeni (kwaye abanye, balunyulwa kwi-Europe & apos; s vinifera iidiliya, jonga iswill). Silayishe itrunk ngamatyala aliqela, kubandakanya newayini yequnube eyenziwe kamnandi xa umfama ongummelwane ezifumanisa ethwele iziqhamo.

Sasihlutshwa yile ndawo (kwaye omnye wethu-hayi umqhubi-wayenokuvutha kancinci kwi-sitrobheli yewayini), ke sakhwela saya eLumberton, North Carolina, enye iyure eyi-1½. Amanye amalungu e-barbecue anelisekile ukuhambisa kuphela ihagu ecoliweyo, kodwa i-Fuller kunye ne-Delora Locklear & apos; s buffet line eFuller & apos; s Old Fashioned BBQ lukhenketho olukhulu lokutya izitya zase Mzantsi. Ewe, banenyama etshaya inyama yehagu ecoliweyo ecekeceke kakuhle kakhulu kwaye enesipeki, isitayile saseNyakatho Carolina, kunye neviniga ye-chile ebomvu, kodwa bakwakhonza yonke enye into, ukusuka kwi-oxtails kunye nenkukhu & apos; n & apos; amadombolo kwiimbotyi zebhotela kunye nombona ocoliweyo. Iitshini zazo ezenziwe ngerowu- zingenabumnandi kwaye zinepepile entle-zezizo ukuzama ukuba zixesha lakho lokuqala, kwaye izitya ezimbalwa, ezinje ngamaqebengwana asicaba, amdaka, kunye namabhotolo ombona, akhethekileyo kwisizwe saseLumbee, esizalelwe kule kona. Emazantsi.

Ukufumana i-tonic digestif, siye sahamba kangangeemayile ezingama-20 ukuya eMzantsi weBorder, isicupho sabakhenkethi esinezihloko zaseMexico kunye neempompo zomlilo kumda weNorth Carolina-South Carolina. Kukho umfanekiso omkhulu wale ndawo kunye neapos; mascot, uPedro, owongamela indawo yokupaka. Amagumbi okuhlambela angaphantsi kokucoceka kwaye thina & apos; sinotyekelo lokuqhubela phambili, ngaphandle kokuba ikhomishini ithengisa i-gingery yokwenene kunye ne-Blenheim Ginger Ale enecala kwimeko. Isoda ibhotile kufutshane kwaye iza kuphela kwiincasa ezintathu: Ukutya, kushushu, kwaye kungashushu. Yenza i-cocktails eyoyikisayo exutywe ne-bourbon, kwaye sihlala sima ukuze sizalise unikezelo lwethu.

Isiqingatha seyure nje kuhola wendlela sisixeko saseFlorence, eSouth Carolina, ikhaya elise-Ambrias Garden Manor. Sibetha i-Pee Dee State Farmers Market ngamanye amandongomane abilisiweyo (isampulu kuqala ukuze uqiniseke ukuba ii-apos azinetyiwa eninzi), isityalo esinamanzi sikaMama, kunye nobusi bendawo. Saye ke sagquma saya kwi-Manor, oonokrwece bethu bamandongomane bephuma kumnyango wemoto ovulekileyo, kwaye samkelwa ziimpawu ezimbini zokuzola, uElla Frazier nomyeni wakhe, uDavid, abavule le B&B kwiminyaka emithathu edlulileyo.

Basikhokele bajikeleza i-dogwood kunye ne-camellia arbor, emva koko sahlala kwiveranda umlingo, saphefumla nzulu, saphinda saziva siseMazantsi. Le yimvakalelo eqhelekileyo yabakwaFraziers, abakhulele eSouth Carolina, malunga neekhilomitha ezingama-50 ngaphandle komnye, kodwa bafudukela eNew York kwakamsinya emva kwesikolo samabanga aphakamileyo. Abazange bahlangane kude kube ngo-1981, xa uDavid, waseHarlem haberdasher, wathengisa iilokhwe ezimbalwa ku-Ella. Ngo-2003, babuyela eMzantsi Carolina, babuyisela indlu yobugcisa nezobugcisa-, kwaye bahombisa amagumbi ayo ngokuqaqamba, chintzes kamakhulu.

Amashumi amathandathu eemayile kumazantsi eFlorence, ibhulorho ende, ephantsi ethwala i-95 ngaphesheya kweLake Marion kufutshane neSummerton luphawu lokuba thina & apos siphantse safika ekhaya. Ngeyona mihla ishushu ehlotyeni, amanzi anokukhangeleka ngathi ngumgxobhozo we-malaria, kodwa xa amaqondo obushushu esihla, liphinda ichibi kwakhona, lixhonywe ngemisipresi kwaye ligcwele abalobi. Olu hambo sithathe isigqibo sokuba sizibandakanye nabo, kwaye sabhukisha isikhephe eJack & Apos's Creek Marina kwiikhilomitha ezimbini ukusuka ku-Exit 102.

Intsasa yayikulungele ukuloba, ngokujonga ii-ospreys ezijikeleza ngaphezulu. Hayi, asikhange sibambe crappie, bass, okanye catfish, kodwa ukuba siyaphambuka, emthunzini wemithi ephakama kwiindawo ezinzulu, yayiluloyiso olwaneleyo. Akukho luthintelo lungcono kwi-vertigo engama-80-mph kuneyure & iapos efanelekileyo yokuphosa.

Ngaphandle emanzini, sisebenze kwakhona ukuthanda ukutya i-barbecue kwakhona, kwaye i-Sweatman & apos; s, malunga nesiqingatha seyure emazantsi, yindlela enqabileyo yokuhlangana kwebhayiki. I-Sweatman & apos; ngaba inyama yehagu ikhutshwe kwiihagu ezipheleleyo, inikezela ngamacala ambalwa okusebenza, kwaye ayisiyiyo enye into. Kodwa yaziwa phakathi kwe-barbecue aficionados ngenkathalo abayinika inyama yabo yomthi onzima. Ngumsebenzi we-apos omninzi kangangokuba bavule kuphela ngolwesiHlanu nangoMgqibelo, kwaye iiyure zabo zokusebenza zibethelelwe kwimemori yabalandeli abanjengathi.

Ke kwabonakala ngathi luhlobo oluthile lwenkohliso xa sasisongela uSweatman & apos; s kwaye safumana uphawu olubhalwe ngesandla: KUVALWE NGOMTSHATO WOSAPHO. Noba kutheni. UCharleston wayengaphantsi kwemizuzu engama-45, kwaye xa ekugqibeleni satshutshisa ukuba sime yayilixesha lesidlo sasemini se-shrimp kunye nomama kwenye yeendawo esizithandayo, iHominy Grill. Asisoze sasilela ukugqiba into ende Uhambo lwendlela Ngomthendeleko wokubhiyozela, njengendawo yokukhuza, i-toast emsebenzini owenziwe ngokukhuselekileyo kunye nesikhumbuzo sendlela esivela ngayo.

UMat Lee kunye noTed Lee ngabahleli be-T + L. I-Lee Bros. Incwadi yokupheka eseMazantsi (W. W. Norton) uzakuphuma ngo-Okthobha.

WAHLALA PHI

Ihotele iJefferson
I-101 W. Franklin St., iRichmond, iVa .; 800 / 424-8014 okanye 804 / 788-8000; www.miloushotel.com ; iphindwe kabini kwi-285 yeedola.

I-Ambrias Garden Manor
I-111 Kuker St., iFlorence, i-SC; 866 / 412-2632 okanye 843 / 661-6060; www.ambriasgardenmanor.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-135 yeedola.

KUPHI EMAKUTYWE khona

Nick & apos; Indlu yeentlanzi
2600 yokwambathisa uGqr, Baltimore, Md .; 410 / 347-4123; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezingama-45.

Sally Bell kunye nekhitshi
708 W. UGrace St., Richmond, Va.; 804 / 644-2838; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezili-13.

Izidiliya zeHinant Family
Inqanaba lePine le-826 – iMicro Rd, iNqanaba lePine, NC; 919 / 965-3350.

I-BBQ emidala yeFuller & apos
3201 N. Roberts Ave., iLumberton, NC; 910 / 738-8694; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini.

UMzantsi weBorder
IHamer, SC; 843 / 774-2411.

I-Pee Dee State Abalimi beNtengiso
I-2513 W. Lucas St., iFlorence, iSC; 843 / 665-5154.

I-Sweatman kunye neapos bar-b-que
Rte. 453, iHolly Hill, SC; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini.

I-Grill yoLuntu
207 Rutledge Ave., Charleston, SC; 843 / 937-0930; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-40.

KWENZIWE NTONI

IMyuziyam yaseAva Gardner
325 E. Imakethi iSt., ISmithfield, NC; 919 / 934-5830.

IJack kunye neeapos zeCreek Marina
I-2226 Jack & apos; s Creek Rd., Summerton, SC; 803 / 478-2793; Ukuqesha isikhephe ukusuka kwi- $ 35.

Ihotele iJefferson

Ihotele iRichmond & apos; eyona ndawo ibalaseleyo yehotele, ipropathi ye-Beaux-Arts ye-1895 igqityiwe ngee-porticoes kunye nenqaba yewotshi, ekumbindi wedolophu.

IJack's Creek Marina

IMyuziyam yaseAva Gardner

Bar-b-que kaSweatman

I-Pee Dee State Abalimi beNtengiso

Olu tsalo lweehektare ezingama-55 lubonisa ingqokelela ebomvu ebomvu yekhulu leminyaka ehlala isitudiyo sombumbi esisebenzayo kunye nezinto ezahlukeneyo zobumba ezibonisiweyo, ikhitshi lepecan, kunye nebha yekofu. Ivenkile yokuthenga izipho eneemifanekiso eqingqiweyo, imihombiso yotshani, kunye nempahla enkonkxiweyo, ngelixa izitiya ezikufutshane kunye neendawo zokugcina izityalo zibonisa izityalo kunye neentyatyambo eziza kuthengwa. Kodwa eyona nto inomtsalane yishedi yomlimi onyawo ezizikwere ezingama-45,000 ngokuqhubela kwimveliso entsha kunye nentengiso yegadi; uninzi lwabantu balapha bathenga izinto zonyaka ezinje ngamathanga kunye neevatala. I-Pee Dee nayo ibamba imithendeleko eliqela efana neZityalo eziseMazantsi kunye noMnyhadala weentyatyambo rhoqo ngo-Epreli. Ukwamkelwa simahla kunye nokupaka.

UMzantsi weBorder

I-BBQ endala yeFuller

Izidiliya zeHinant Family

Ikhitshi likaSally Bell

Ngaphantsi kwemayile ukusuka ku-I-95, uSally Bell kunye neapos; ibhaka kwizakhiwo zonke iintlobo zezonka ezisemazantsi, iipie kunye neekeyiki, kodwa ziibhokisi ezimhlophe zebhokisi yesidlo sasemini, ezibotshwe ngentambo ye-butcher & apos; 10 ubunzulu emini emaqanda. Ukongeza kukhetho lweesandwich (i-pimento-cheese okanye ii-biscuits zelizwe zilunge kakhulu) kwaye ngaphezulu kweentlobo ezilishumi elinambini zekhekhe, ibhokisi nganye iza ilayishwe isaladi yeetapile, i-cookie ye-cheddar-cheese, kunye ne-deviled iqanda kwi-twist yephepha elixutywe. UMamie Eisenhower, ondoda yakhe eyayisayinela inkqubo yamazwe kwiminyaka engama-50 eyadlulayo, angazingca.

Indlu yentlanzi kaNick

I-Ambrias Garden Manor

Ifunyenwe imizuzu ukusuka phakathi, le ndlu ye-Victorian ye-1920 inesibheno sothando ngenxa yeendawo eziqholiweyo, ezinemibala emininzi yeekhamera, ezinokujongwa kwivaranda epheleleyo kunye netafile yokuhlala. Khetha kumagumbi amathathu anemibala, iRed, Blue, kunye neRose Rooms, ezinokulala ngokusesikweni kunye nonyango lwefestile. Ababhenkethi banakho ukufikelela kulo lonke ikhaya elihonjiswe ngokwendalo, kubandakanya igumbi lokuhlala, igumbi lokutyela elisesikweni, indawo yesidlo sakusasa, kunye negumbi lokuhlala elinendawo zomlilo. Isidlo sakusasa esigcweleyo sasemazantsi sibandakanyiwe kunye nokuhlala kwakho.

I-Grill yoLuntu

Umpheki uRobert Stehling isenokungabi yindawo esezantsi, kodwa ii-biscuits zakhe 'eziphakamileyo' kunye ne-shrimp sakusasa ziyinyani njengoko uNana wayeqhele ukwenza, kwaye iipancakes zebhathane zidityaniswe nesiraphu yeapile kunye nebhotolo yepecan. Kwikona yeRutledge Avenue kwisithili esikhulayo nesisemazantsi salesi sixeko sase-genteel, i-Hominy Grill ibisoloko isenza ukutya okunesisa kwi-Dixie diners ukusukela ngo-1996. Ezinye izinto zebrunch zengingqi zibandakanya i-BLT eluhlaza eluhlaza okanye iqhekeza isuphu. Kwaye awukwazi & apos ukubetha imiphanda yeti emnandi egalelwe ngabalungiseleli abanamanani alinganayo omtsalane wasemazantsi.

Amacala amahle: I-sausage gravy kunye neeshizi.

• NguMat Lee
• NguTed Lee