Besiziva kamnandi. Sifikile eflatin yethu edolophini yase Lerici xa litshona ilanga. Ngasentla: ii-wisps ezincinci zamafu zikhanyiswe ngaphantsi njengamathambo epinki entlanzi. Apha ngezantsi: ilali, kunye nezakhiwo zayo ezi-ocher- kunye ne-sienna kunye ne-beachside promenade egcwele abantu abancinci abatya ii-gelato cones ezingabonakaliyo. Umoya wawunuka njengolwandle kunye neentyatyambo zase-Italiya. Akukho mntu wagula emotweni kuhola wendlela kwaye akukho mntu wayenesifo sendlebe phantse kwiintsuku ezimbini. Siphume kwi Fiat Panda sazolula. Ngaphandle kukaFinn, umntwana wethu. Wahlala nje ebotshelelwe kwisitulo sakhe semoto, ekhwaza, Outta apha! Outta apha! Kodwa ndoda, umoya wawunuka kamnandi. Njengasehlotyeni, kuphela ngecologne entle.

ILerici iqokelelwe nkqo ngokuthe nkqo ukusuka kwiMeditera — iGulf of Poets, njengoko ibizwa njalo le ndawo ingenayo — njenge-favela eshinyeneyo, ekumgangatho ophakathi. Indawo yokuhlala esasiyibhukishe kwi-Intanethi ibilapha, ingafakwanga endulini mhlawumbi iiyadi ezingama-300 ngaphezulu kwedolophu. Ukuhlamba kwizandi zecicadas. Igutyungelwe sisihlahla seentyatyambo. Nokuba ujonge imifanekiso emingaphi, ngekhe uyazi ukuba uza kufumana ntoni xa urenta indawo kwindawo enje VRBO.com . Kodwa ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, kulungile. Sothula abantwana emotweni, isitrato esiphathwayo, iipawundi ezingama-647 zemithwalo, sahamba saya kufuna umnyango wangaphambili.

Senze ngabom kakhulu ekukhetheni kwethu uLerici. Yidolophu yaselunxwemeni midsize kunxweme olusemazantsi eLiguria, ingingqi eyaziwa njengekhaya lasePortofino kunye ne-pesto. Yindawo ebetha ibhalansi ethe-ethe: kulula ukufikelela kuyo kodwa hayi kulula kakhulu ; Inxalenye yobuchwephesha yoMlambo i-Italiya, kodwa hayi inxalenye ye-Italian Riviera apho umntu anokufumana kuphela ii-oligarchs zase-Russia okanye iintengiso eziphilayo, eziphefumlayo ngesiqholo samadoda; Iilwandle ezingasondelanga kakhulu kumzi-mveliso wokulungisa isamente / isardadi okanye indawo yokutyela ebonakalisa indawo yokuhlala echibini / indawo apho uJustin Timberlake anokutshata khona. Iimbono ezigqwesileyo, imozulu entle yasehlotyeni, iwayini entle yasehlotyeni (iVermentino) kunye nokutya kwaselwandle (baya kuyivuthela ingqondo yakho nabanye eluhlaza ) kunye nabemi abazinikezele ekuphishekeleni kanye oko besifuna ukukufunda kwiveki enye: intobeko ethobekileyo yosapho lwase-Itali.

Idibeneyo: Uhamba njani ukuya eCinque Terre

Zininzi izinto abantu base-Itali abangakhange baziqonde. Uhlahlo-lwabiwo mali olulungeleleneyo, umzekelo. Ukuhanjiswa ngobusuku. Ipolitiki, iyantlukwano, amalungelo abantu besini esinye, uqoqosho lwehlabathi, ukuzala ngokukhawuleza ngokwaneleyo ukugcina inani labemi linganciphisi. Kodwa nabani na owaziyo nantoni na malunga ne-Italiya bayazi ukuba bayifumene indlela yokuphila . Isidlo sasemini. Naps. Iiyute zokusebenza. Kwaye, nangona ingafumani phantse umdlalo omninzi njenge wayini okanye ipasta: ukuya elwandle. Ukuhlala eRoma ixesha elingengonyaka odlulileyo (kodwa kwakudala kunokuba ndandifuna), ndaguqula isayikholojekhthi yesizwe njenge: Hee bafo, akukho mntu uza kudibana kunye kwinqanaba loluntu, ke masihambe kancinci Bore kwaye sakhe ubomi bethu bemihla ngemihla ngokugqibeleleyo, masiqiniseke ukuba sinekofu elungileyo kwaye singaze sitye itumato engenancasa kwaye siziphose ngokuzikhethela kakhulu ekuqhubekeni kweholide, masikhuphe wonke umongo wobomi. Ndizise inkosikazi yam kunye nabantwana bam ababini-abaneminyaka eyi-1.5 no-3.5- apha ngesibongozo: sifundise thina batya i-pesto, sifundise ukuthanda ulwandle ngokucocekileyo!

Elo yayilelo themba lamandla esasihlala kulo njengoko sasingqungqa izixhobo zethu sisiya kwilali yethu yeVRBO. Sasineveki, kwaye yayiza kulunga; besizakubeka inqwelomoya emva kwethu, singasathethi ke ngexabiso lamatikiti. Laye lahlala ixesha elingakanani elo themba? Ndingathi malunga neeyadi ezingama-40. Indawo yokuhlala yayinyuke kwangathi zizitepsi ezingama-6 000 ukusuka endleleni — izitepsi zokubaleka umlilo zijikeleze endulini. Sijikeleze imithwalo kwindlela enyukayo, njengokuchitha ii rokethi. IPack ’n Dlala kuqala, emva koko ityesi eqengqelekayo. Xa sifika e-villa izinto zabonakala nje… zahlukile. Ndiyathetha, kwakungafani nokuba basebenzise imifanekiso yobuqhetseba kwiVRBO. Kodwa ibhafu yamanzi ashushu (yintoni i kuyabanda -amanzi kushushu tub, kunjalo?) Uqinisekile wajonga njengechibi elikulo mboniso wesilayidi. Leyo yayiyidesika yangaphandle ilungile, kodwa andikhange ndiyiqaphele into yokuhla kwehle ngasemva kwayo efotweni, mhlawumbi ayilungelanga umntu ofunda nje ukuhamba. Kwakungu-fetid kwi (encinci kunokuba besicinga!) Sivule iifestile. Hayi, wakhwaza umnini wepropathi, owayesibonisa indawo. Zininzi iingcongconi. Kuthekani ngezikrini? sibuze. Inkangeleko: yintoni intsingiselo ye ... izikrini ? Siye sayohlala emva kweyadi. Ke sipaka phi ukusebenzisa ulwandle edolophini? sibuze. Owu, ngekhe uqhube imoto yakho edolophini ngaphandle kokuba unayo imvume yokuhlala. Kulungile, lude kangakanani uhambo? Imizuzu engamashumi amathathu, unyuke usihla endulini ngamanye amanyathelo angama-8,000. Ubuncinci bekukho umthi omhle oneentyatyambo ezipinki kanye apha emaphethelweni enqanawe — intombi yam ithe phithi ziintyatyambo zombini nombala opinki. Hayi! wakhwaza i-villa matroness xa intombi yam ikhetha enye. Oleander epinki! Inetyhefu! Uya kufa! Uya kufa!

Akukho namnye kuthi owathetha nantoni na, inkosikazi yam kunye nam. Ungakhalaza ngezinto ezincinci xa uvuthele isibonelelo sakho seholide sonyaka kuhambo oluya e-Itali-imibala evumela ukukhanya kakhulu ekuseni. Okanye: ikofu ekwindawo yokutya isidlo sakusasa ngumatshini wokushicilela waseFrance, kwaye ndiyayithiya imithombo yeendaba yaseFrance! Kodwa xa uziva ukuba uza kuchitha iiyure zokuvuka zeholide yakho unethemba lokuba ungagoduka nje, ufuna ukungcwaba olo lwazi kakhulu. Ndingaphila nale! Umfazi wam watsho. Akukubi kakhulu, Ndithe. Akuzange kube semva kwexesha — emva kokuba ndibuya ezivenkileni ndiphethe ezi bhegi zokutya zibolayo ezinokubonakala ngathi zinobomi obunesiqingatha semizuzu emithathu, emva kokuba zonke ezi ngxowa zisixhenxe zaqala ukonakala zodwa kwizinyuko ezisezindulini. emveni kokuba ndikorile ukutya ndisihla ezinyukweni ngeminyhadala yeeyogathi ezingatshatanga, iinkedama kunye neebhokisi ezityumkileyo zobisi — ndathi kumfazi wam: Oku kuyadika. Ndiyazi ukuba indenza ibroti eyonakeleyo, ngelixa silapha kule dolophu intle yolwandle yase-Italiya apho ilanga litshona ngobukhazikhazi obuphakathi ngelixa umoya opholileyo uvuthuza iMeditera emnene, ndithi: andinakuhlala Apha. Oh Thixo wam, uthe, ukuthandana nam kwakhona emva kwayo yonke le minyaka, Kudala ndikulindile ukuba uguquke ube sisiporho esonakeleyo. Safika kwindawo ebonakalayo ye-Intanethi. Kwaye ke saye sagqiba ekubeni singene ematyaleni ukuze sibenendlela yokuphila esiyifunayo-saza ke saba ngamaTaliyane okwesihlandlo sokuqala.

Iilwandle 1 & 2

Iklabhu yaselwandle yaseFiascherino kunye neLido di Lerici

Yayilusuku lwethu lwesibini. Kwakusekuseni. Kwaye kwakusekufuphi ngentsimbi yeshumi ngelixa siqhuba eliweni ngaphezulu kweMeditera eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, iFiat ibambelele kwicala elijonge elwandle lendlela. Le ndlela ibifanele nje kumazantsi eLerici kwaye isikhokelele kule ntsasa izaliswe lilanga isiya kumava amatsha olwandle. Phambi kwethu yayinomzi waseFiascherino, apho sasixelelwe ukuba kukho iklabhu yaselwandle. Yonke i-Gulf of Poets igcwele iidolophu eziselunxwemeni, iPortovenere kwincam yasentshona, kwiikhilomitha ezimbalwa ukusuka eCinque Terre, emva koko yiLa Spezia (isixeko esisemthethweni, esigcwele isiseko somkhosi wamanzi kunye nomzi mveliso onzima), emva koko ujikeleze. I-bend enamatye nguLerici noFiascherino, kwaye ekugqibeleni ekugqibeleni idolophu encinci yaseTellaro. Iklabhu yaselwandle esaya kuyo yacetyiswa njengendawo yamaTaliyane. Ngokukodwa: Iintsapho zase-Italiya zisuka, zithi, eMilan okanye eParma (okuziiyure nje ezimbalwa ukusuka e-Emilia-Romagna) abeza apha unyaka nonyaka ukuzonwabisa ngexesha labo elabelwe ulwandle.

Uphawu lweFiascherino lwavela ngequbuliso ngasekunene. Indlela engumnqantsa wehla usiya ezantsi kwi-engile engqingqwa, saza ke sehla ulwandle lwaseFiat.

Eli yayilixesha lethu lesibini elwandle. Eyokuqala ibiyizolo, eLerici. Kuya kufuneka sichithe ubusuku obunye kwiVilla of Death kunye neMalariya ngaphambi kokuba sifumane indawo entsha. Ekuseni siye senyuka ngendlela ehamba edolophini. Sahamba ecaleni kwebhodi yokuhamba ehamba umgama onesiqingatha ukusuka kwelinye icala laseLerici ukuya kwelinye sada sakhetha iklabhu yaselwandle esiyithandayo. Saqesha izitulo ezine eLido di Lerici, ihotele enendawo yayo yolwandle.

ILerici yahlulwe yimiba yaselwandle. Ngamnye uphawulwe ngombala wakhe wesambrela -umthubi otyheli okanye iBaltic luhlaza okwesibhakabhaka okanye uluhlaza lwase-Italiya. Ukusuka kwibhodi yokuhambahamba unokubabona bephuma kumanxweme, ii-phalanxes zeambrela zikhutshelwe ngaphandle njengeenkampu zemikhosi ekhuphisanayo (yabantu abanesuti yokuhlamba). Iiambrela zeLido zaziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka. I-maître d'beach yasizisa kwizitulo zethu, zitshatwe phakathi kosapho olusuka eL'Aquila kunye nesibini esivela eRimini. Abanye babantu babonakala ngathi bayazana kwiminyaka edlulileyo. Kwakukho imisebenzi yase-Melika yase-zero-Frisbees; ivolibholi; Iinqaba ezinkulu ezakhiwe ngootata bokuzibonisa. Abantu babonelisekile kukutshaya, funda iphephandaba, bema kwi-surf. Elinye inenekazi lahlala nje apho ulwandle lwadibana khona namatye lwaza lwaluvumela ukuba luwe ngobunono njengomthi okhukulayo. Ubuninzi babemi bathatha bakuqhela. Intombi yam yaya emanzini iyokuqokelela amatye, emva koko yazulazula ibuyela kwisitulo esingalunganga. Uye wajonga phezulu wafumanisa amakhulu ezitulo ezifanayo ezinamakhulu ezinwele ezineminyaka engama-40 ubudala ezazikhangeleka zifana nezazingenguye utata wakhe.

Namhlanje eFiascherino-iklabhu yehotele kunye nolwandle-ingayinto eyahlukileyo yamava. Kwakungaphandle kwendlela, kuthe cwaka, kungene kwindawo engenakufikeleleka ngaphandle kwalowo wayenokuthi angene kwindawo yokupaka encinci. Ukujongwa kwentaba ejonge echibini elithuleyo yayingamagumbi eendwendwe ali-14 ahlelwe kwiindawo ezahlukeneyo, kunye nephuli enkulu yamanzi olwandle enezihlalo zokuphumla, iivenkile zokutyela, kunye nolwandle. Kuba besingahlali ehotele, kubiza i-90 yeedola kuthi sobane ukuchitha usuku-echibini, elwandle, naphina apho sithanda khona. Sinikwe izitshixo zokutshixa saza saboniswa kwindawo etshintsha.

Indawo eguqukayo: apha sifumana i-artifact yethu yokuqala yenkcubeko yolwandle lwase-Italiya. E-Itali, awunxibi ukuya kuqubha xa uphuma kwindlu yakho kusasa. Uyatshintsha xa ufika apho, kwaye uhambe uye elunxwemeni netawuli kuphela, iimbadada, kwaye mhlawumbi ICorriere della Sera ifakwe phantsi kwengalo yakho — ngokungathi ubuphuma endlwini yakho elunxwemeni.

Ecaleni kwam xa ndibeka unyana wam kwi-diaper yakhe yokuqubha yayingutatomkhulu wase-Italiya owayekhangeleka ngokungathi uchithe iminyaka elishumi edlulileyo yobomi bakhe beminyaka engama-70 ezinikele ekuziguquleni abe ngumdaka onezibuko zelanga ezirhangqwe luphondo. Wanyanzelisa ukuthwala unyana wam amse elwandle, kwaye unyana wam ngethuku lemvelo wayesazi ukuba eli lilungiselelo elilungileyo. Xa sifika emanzini, wanikwa iqebengwana lealmond.

Emva nje kwemini, ngequbuliso ichibi laphuma — ixesha lesidlo sasemini. Sifumene uninzi lwabantu abaphuma echibini kwindawo yokutyela ebekwe kwindawo yokutyela evulekileyo ngaphandle nje kodonga lokugcina ulwandle. Ngeyure elandelayo sibuyele sibuye phakathi kwetafile yethu kunye nokufumba iipleyiti ze farro isaladi, bruschetta, Isaladi yeNicoise . Sitye ipasta ye-squid-inki kunye ne-shrimp, iimbaza kunye neetumato. Sitye i-tartare yentlanzi, sasela iwayini emhlophe kunye ne-espresso, emva koko, njengayo yonke i-Fiascherino-ites, sabuya sazolala phantsi kweambrela. Ndaye ndathetha nendoda yaseMilanese, uGiuseppe, njengoko sasihleli emva kwesidlo sasemini iinyawo zethu echibini. Sidibene. Ndiqinisekile ukuba umsebenzi wakhe wawunomdla-wayenokuthengisa izindlu nomhlaba okanye ifenitshala, amagama ase-Italiya ayafana, kodwa nangayiphi na indlela endandi riveted ngayo. Wayehlala ixesha elifutshane eBoston kwaye wachitha ixesha eCape Cod.

Into endihlekisayo ngayo ngabantu baseMelika yindlela onamabhongo ngayo, utshilo. Nokuba elwandle. Kuya kufuneka wenze imisebenzi yakho, uthambise isithintelo selanga. Nokuba awenzi kwanto uhlala usenza into, umba kwiambrela yakho yaselwandle okanye ngokusa umzimba emzimbeni. Jonga kokukujikelezile. Ngale ndlela ungenzi nto ngendlela ephucukileyo.

Iilwandle 3, 4, no 5

Kwaye igama malunga nethiyori yaselwandle yase-Italiya

Ngelixa sifumana ithiyori malunga namaTaliyane kunye nolwandle, mandikungenise kuhlobo lwenkcubeko yokujonga iifoto ndazifumana kwiintsuku ezininzi kamva. Ndishiye usapho ndisiya emantla ukuya kwi-bushwhack ejikeleze ezinye iindawo zeLiguria. ICamogli (izindlu ezintle ze-pastel; ulwandle olunabantu abaninzi ngokumangalisayo), eyindlela yokusebenza ekwiindawo ezikumgangatho ophezulu ngakumbi. I-Portofino-ethetha ngeendawo ezi-tony, kumnandi nje ukujonga i-Ferraris kwisitalato apha. ISan Fruttuoso — idolophana encinci efikeleleka kuphela ngesikhephe esakhiwe ngeenxa zonke kwindawo entle yolwandle, exabisa uhambo lwesidlo sasemini. ECamogli, ndatya kwindawo endala edumileyo kanye ecaleni kwendlela yebhodi ekuthiwa yiPorto Prego — ndandineepleyiti zeentlobo ezimbini zeanchovies zomthonyama, ezinye ziluhlaza ngelamuni ezinye iisaladi (ityiwa yanyangwa). Babemnandi.

UngumMelika, ilizwi lathi kum xa ndigqiba. Ndijonge phezulu kwabe kukho umfazi. Amehlo akhe ebenamandla kancinci. Ekhaya, ndiyakuphepha ukucofwa phantsi ngabantu abancokolayo abancokolayo ngazo zonke iindleko. Kodwa ngeli xesha ndicinge, kutheni kungenjalo.

Ndingu.

Kwafumaniseka ukuba wayengumphengululi weelwimi owayeshiye ubuprofesa bakhe ukuze alandele ugqirha wezentliziyo owayehlala kufutshane naseCamogli — babesandul 'ukutshata.

Ingaba wazi kanjani? Ndibuzile.

Ufunda incwadi ngexesha lesidlo sasemini, utshilo. UmTaliyane akanakuyenza loo nto. UmTaliyane ngekhe abe nokuzithemba ngokutya yedwa. Wayedla ngokufaka i-napkin yakhe kwihempe yakhe aze atye kwaye onwabe ukuba konke ekufuneka ekwenzile kukutya.

Ndimxelele injongo yohambo lwam, wathi, mamela, amaTaliyane ahlukile ngolwandle. Ukuhla nokuhla konxweme, kukho iiklabhu zaselwandle, utshilo. Uninzi lwazo. Amakhulu abo. Kwaye uyazi into ephambeneyo? Kwaye wachaza icala elimnyama lokuzinikezela kwe-Italiyali kwisithethe: Zonke zigciniwe. Bonke! Kunyaka olandelayo, nawo . Mhlawumbi iminyaka kunye neminyaka!

Uhambo lwasentabeni

Ngobo busuku, ngobo busuku bokuqala. Ngobo busuku xa sahlala kwiVilla of Death neMalariya, sikhangela enye indawo yokuhlala. Umfazi wam kunye nam singqonge iilaptops, sikhangela iziza eziqeshisa nge-villa kunye ne-TripAdvisor kunye nabahlobo babahlobo nge-imeyile. Emuva kwengqondo yam kwakukhona ilizwi, elithuleyo kodwa elinyanzelisayo, elalisithi: Apha ulapha eLiguria, indawo ekudala ungazi ukuba ikho. Kwaye uyakhalaza kuba ityhubhu yakho eshushu ayitshisi ngokwaneleyo? Ndiyavuma: ukucinga ngalento kusandizalisa ngeentloni. Baza kufunda ntoni abantwana bam kolu hlobo lokuziphatha? Luhlobo luni lwe-hysterical, high-maintenance freaks endiwuguqula ube yiyo?

Kodwa mandiyiphikise nale nto. Uziva njani xa ungena kwihotele entle ngokwenene? Okanye ufumanise ukuba indlu yasefama eyi-rustic oyiqeshileyo ayizenzi ngathi ingu-rustic kodwa ngenene, i-rustic ehambayo? Xa ungena kutshintshiselwano endlwini yakho kwaye kubonakala ngathi kukhutshwe kwimibono engenagama engcwatyelwe nzulu kwi-subconscious yakho enento yokwenza neepikniksi ezilula ezazinomyezo wegadi yangasemva? Emva kokuvulelwa kumfazi ogama linguMerrion Charles, umphambukeli wase-Bhritane kunye nomthengisi / wezindlu kwizindlu ezinencasa kakhulu kwihlabathi liphela kodwa ngakumbi e-Itali, safumana indawo ekufuphi. Ngokwenene, yayiyindlu yakhe, ngaphakathi nje ukusuka eLerici kwindawo ebizwa ngokuba yiLunigiana. Sithumele i-imeyile uCharles kwaye ngokungummangaliso wasithumela nge-imeyile kwangoko. Indlu ibingenamntu, ngamathuba, iveki yonke. Singayifumana kumakhulu ambalwa ee-euro.

Kwelinye icala: yayingamakhulu ambalwa eeuros esingenawo.

Kwelinye icala: besele sisebenzise yonke imali yethu ukuza apha. Singahlali njani kumakhulu ambalwa eeuros ukulungisa okungalunganga? Ukucacisa uJohn Kerry ekupheleni kweMfazwe yaseVietnam: ungaceli njani kumakhulu ambalwa eeyuro ukuba abe ngamakhulu ambalwa eerandi achithwe ukulungisa impazamo?

Siphume saya apho ekuseni kwaye mandikuxelele: yayilungile. Eli chibi lalinamanzi anetyuwa kwaye lijikelezwe ngamatyholo e-lavender. Kwakuse dolophu yase Cotto, engeyiyo idolophu njengezakhiwo ezimbalwa endulini ezinesitrato esinamatye anqabileyo kunye nezilwanyana ezininzi zasefama- iinkuku neenkomo, ubukhulu becala — bezulazula edolophini zingalondolozwanga okwexhegwazana elisendleleni thenga amatikiti elotto. Eli candelo lelikona apho abathathu kwimimandla hlangana: Liguria, Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna-umhlaba apho iprosciutto yazalelwa khona, ndingasathethi ke ngeParmigiano-Reggiano kunye nelasagna kunye neviniga yebhalsam, konke nje uhambo losuku. Kwikhitshi lethu ungazibona iiApuan Alps, zinenduli ngaphambili kwaye zijinga kude.

Iilwandle 6 & 7

Ukufezeka

Zininzi iintsuku zolwandle ezigqibeleleyo kwi-Riviera yase-Italiya. Kukho i-Itali-yokuhamba ngenqanawa ngokugqibeleleyo kweLido; usapho-oluzolileyo-lwasekhaya-olugqibeleleyo lweFiascherino. Kukho enye indawo eyoyikisayo yemfezeko ePortovenere — phantsi kwecawa entle eyakhiwe kwingxondorha enamatye, kumatye amakhulu athe tyaba kwimarina, yeyona ndawo inemibala emininzi yolutsha lwase-Italiya olunxibe ii-bikinis ezincinci ze-Day-Glo kunye nokutshaya iisigarethi nokudlala ibhola ekhatywayo. Ndiyakuxelela, awuzange ubone iinwele ezinje. Yintyila encyclopedia yesikolo sobuhle. Ungasathethi ke ngeetani. Ukuba bendinokuba (1) ndineminyaka eli-17 ubudala kwaye ndithanda umculo weklabhu okanye (2) uBruce Weber, ngekhe ndishiye loo ndawo.

Kukwakho nokugqibelela kukaTellaro.

I-Tellaro yidolophu yokugqibela kwicala elingasempuma yeGulf of Poets. Incinci, ayinzima kwaphela idolophu, kwaye ibekwe ngqo elwandle, ngokungathi iliwa laselunxwemeni lalifakwe kwi-palazzi. Upaka imoto yakho phezulu edolophini, kwindawo kamasipala, emva koko uhambe phantsi. Kukho i-piazza ekungeneni kwedolophu kunye ne-bar ethuleyo ye-espresso kunye neesanti kunye nobhiya obubandayo emva kwemini. Uhamba ngendlela yakho ezantsi, kwizitrato ezixinene kakhulu kwiimoto, kanye kwindawo engena elwandle. Abanye babalobi bazisa izikhephe zabo apha, kodwa azikho ninzi. Kakhulu ngabantwana abanxibe iimpahla zokudada ezincinci zase-Italiya abadlala ibhola ekhatywayo. Abantu abambalwa bahlala kumatye ajonge amanzi. Abanye abantwana abakwishumi elivisayo badada ngemiqolo yabo kulwandle oluhlwazayo, olunombala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, kule dolophu yoKuvuselelwa njengasemva. Akukho nkonzo kaloliwe apha, kodwa abantu bathi ukuba uloliwe wakhonza iTellaro iyakuba yidolophu yesithandathu yeCinque Terre. Bekungayi kuba kubi ukuchitha inyanga apha, uhamba kwindawo yokutya, uhamba uye elunxwemeni, uhleli ngaphandle kwi-piazza ebusuku unebhiya.

Kodwa kufuneka kubekho ophumeleleyo kukhuphiswano lolwandle lwaseLigurian. Kufuneka kubekho ogqibeleleyo indawo. Yiba nomfanekiso ngqondweni wale nto. Kukho i-cove efihliweyo. Ayibonakali endleleni. Ayibonakali nakwilitye elingaphezulu kwayo, ngaphandle kokuba ukhona ngokwenene Ukugoba ukujonga phantsi. Ifikeleleka kuphela ngezinyuko eziliwaka leenyawo okanye ikhetshi encinci etonela amatye nalapho ungasokuze uhlangulwe khona ukuba inokuma ngokungafikelelekiyo. Kukho indawo kuphela yezitulo ezingama-20 okanye ezingama-30 elunxwemeni. Oko kukuthi, uyazi, uxolo ukuba ugqibelele. Ifaskoti yepepastone ejikelezwe ngamawa; imiqolomba emincinci yokujonga apho amanzi ahlangana khona nelitye. Kukho indawo yokutyela encinci, amagumbi ehotele amathandathu, ivenkile apho umntu anokuthenga khona izikhafu ezingama-300. Yonke le ndawo ngumgangatho owenziwe ngesanti, ngumthi ogcotshwe lilanga, ophuphuma amalaphu amhlophe abekwe kakuhle.

Yindawo apho kungafuneki ukuba ujonge ngaphezulu kweesuti zokuhlamba ukuze wazi ukuba use-Itali. Ndonwabile ukunika ingxelo yokuba nokuba ndinikwe i-Europeanification ye-swimsuit yaseMelika kule minyaka imbalwa idlulileyo, isuti yokuhlamba eyindoda kunxweme lwaseLigurian isabalasele kunxano lwayo kunye nokukwazi kokubini ukukhupha nokunciphisa ilungu lendoda.

Olu lwandle lubizwa ngokuba yi-Eco del Mare, lungumnini webhinqa elihle elineenwele ze-chestnut ezicoliweyo. Ngubani oza kumfumana rhoqo kunokuba ungahlali edesikeni yakhe, ubethwe ngumoya, utshaya umdiza. Ngubani otshate inkwenkwezi pop odumileyo Italian. Ithiyiwe-ndiyaguqulela— Iswekile . Kwaye bahlala kwifama eseLunigiana. Kwaye ukutya apha-ioyile ye-olive, i-jam, imifuno, iziqhamo-zivela efama. Yonke into engaveli elwandle, kunjalo. Nditsho neVermentino onokuyisela unganxibanga zihlangu njengoko utya isidlo sasemini esibheke elunxwemeni.

Ukuba lapha kwenza into ebantwini. Umzekelo bekukho indoda yaseRussia ene tattoo ekhathazayo yeKalashnikov emqolo ngenye yeentsasa ebesilapho. Saba novalo njengoko wayehamba elunxwemeni ngokukhawuleza, esongela ngathi. Kodwa nokuba wayephila ubomi bolwaphulo-mthetho kunye nobundlobongela ekhaya, namhlanje wayexhalabile kakhulu ukuba abantwana bam bangadibana nejellyfish.

Lumka, ubuhle! utshilo kuthi. Ziyadada ngamanye amaxesha kufutshane.

Sichithe usuku apho. Sabuya ngengomso. Sasifuna ukuyokufumanisa olunye ulwandle ngomhla wethu wokugqibela kodwa asikwazanga ukuyenza. Sabuya apha kwakhona, satya ulwandle ndasela iwayini kwaye ndaqubha. Xa siqokelela izinto zethu ukuba sihambe okokugqibela, uFrancesca Mozer, umnini, weza nencwadi yakhe yemihla.

Ke, utshilo. Masikubekisele indawo kwiveki enye, kunyaka olandelayo. Sele phantse sigcwele ehotele kuloo veki. Sisiko, uthini wena?

Ukufika apho

IGenoa, malunga ne-1/2-iiyure zokuhamba usiya emantla eLerici, nasePisa, imizuzu engama-45 emazantsi, zezona zikhululo zeenqwelo moya zisondeleyo.

Ukurenta iVilla

Kwirente ethembekileyo, sicebisa ukubhukisha kusetyenziswa iarhente esekwe. Ndwendwela iiarhente eziQhelekileyo zokuqeshisa i-Villa ekukhetheni kwethu okuphezulu, okanye unxibelelane nomcebisi wezokuhamba njengoMerrion Charles, ondlu yakhe umbhali ayiqeshileyo ( hmzincube.com ). T + L Uluhlu lwearhente uJoyce Falcone ( italianconcierge.com ) igxile kwingingqi.

Hlala

Echo yoLwandle Indawo eyi-4 yaseMaramozza, eLerici; guquilca.it . $$$$

Fiascherino Nge-Via Byron, eLerici; ihotycool.it . $

Ihotele entle Ipropathi yoLwandle oluPhezulu. 16 uSalita Baratta, Portofino; iiofsrax.com . $$$$$

ULido waseLerici 24 Ukugqitha eBiaggini, eLerici; bendawo . $$

Yitya

ILocanda lorena IVia Cavour, kwisiqithi sasePalmaria; yogandaren.com . $$$

ULocanda miranda I-92 nge-Fiascherino, iTellaro; miranda1959.com . $$$

Ndamkelekile 32 uPiazza Colombo, uCamogli; zibelkgo.it . $$$

Indawo yokutyela eCiccio I-71 ngeFabbricotti, iBocca di Magra; lunokweb.it . $$$

Iihotele

$ Ngaphantsi kwama- $ 200
$$ $ 200 ukuya kuma-350 eedola
$$$ $ 350 ukuya kuma-500 eedola
$$$$ $ 500 ukuya kwi- $ 1,000
$$$$$ Ngaphezulu kwe- $ 1,000

Iindawo zokutyela

$ Ngaphantsi kwama- $ 25
$$ $ 25 ukuya kwi-75
$$$ $ 75 ukuya kwi-150
$$$$ Ngaphezulu kwe- $ 150