Silapha kuba, njengazo zonke iindwendwe zikaPalazzo Belmonte (ubukhulu becala iBritane, ubukhulu becala i-posh, uninzi lwazo luthetha neNkosana yaseBelmonte njengo-Angelo), siyakonwabela ukufikelela kule ndawo yabucala; sinokudada, senze ipikniki, sibaleke okanye sihambe kwiikhilomitha zayo, kwaye sitshiswe lilanga kwindawo ekufutshane nokuba yodwa. Silapha ngenxa yokuba inkosana, ethwele into engenasiphako igwele yintsini ngesiquphe nangokusasazekayo, inomdla wokuzikhukhumeza, okhuselayo wale ndawo inqabileyo yelizwe lakhe, anomdla wokwabelana ngayo neendwendwe zakhe. Xa uyeka ukuqaphela, kuthe cwaka phakathi kweenkulungwane zemithi ubudala, ukuba iindlela ezixineneyo kunye ne-cacophonous izikwere yoNxweme lweAmalfi ziikhilomitha ezingama-45 nje emantla, uyasiqonda isizathu.

• Jonga iimpazamo zeNkcubeko eziMbi kakhulu kwihlabathi

Ukutsalela umnxeba i-Cilento Coast i-anti-Amalfi ayisiyonyani. Eli candelo laseCampania lisuka emazantsi eGulf of Salerno lisiya kumda weBasilicata, iikhilomitha ezingama-65 ukuya emazantsi, liswele ubukhazikhazi obucocekileyo, iivenkile zokutyela kunye neehotele ezineenkwenkwezi, kunye nokuhanjiswa kwenkonzo ye-canny yomlingane wayo phesheya I-Gulf (ihotele yase-Belmonte yesikolo esidala, evulekele iindwendwe ngo-1985, yiyo kuphela). Kwaye ngelixa imbonakalo yoNxweme lweAmalfi ibonakala ngendlela esetiweyo-kuya kufuneka usebenze nzima kakhulu ukufumana umbono ombi ngokwenene -iCilento's iyaphambuka. Njengokuba sichitha iintsuku zethu sihamba sinyuka sisihla ku-Route 267, indlela enemizila emibini elandelayo elunxwemeni, sidlula kwiidolophu eziselunxwemeni zilele kunye neelali, siqhubekile ngokungqamene nonxweme olungenanto kangangeekhilomitha, kwaye sihamba ecaleni kweentaba zeBig Sur-ezinjengeentaba , Ngasentla kwamanzi umbala wombala wesafire, opal nejeyidi. Kodwa saphinda sangena kwiindawo zokwakha ezishiyiweyo, i-slapdash izakhiwo zeekhonkrithi, kunye neendawo ezingaselunxwemeni ezikwiWinnebagos kunye neHymer Vans. (Iiklasi ezisebenzayo zase-Italiya zehla kwi-Cilento ngexesha le phakathi ku-Agasti iholide embindini ka-Agasti, xa iba nabantu abagcweleyo kwaye, ngokuqinisekileyo, kufanelekile ukuyiphepha-into ethi yona, ikwathethwa nangonxweme lwe-Amalfi.) Apha, kwintlupheko- kunye norhwaphilizo olonakalise emazantsi eCampania, ezi blips zingathandekiyo kumhlaba othandekayo unyanisekile — ukuphinda ufumane ibuzzword yokuhamba exhaphaze kakhulu- njengemozzarella ethe-ethe yommandla kunye nomculo wesintu okrelekrele. Kodwa ukuba uloluhlobo lomhambi onokuthabatha ii-blips ngokungxama, ungasathethi ke ngendlala ebhengeziweyo yeevenkile zokuyila kunye neziliphu zeyacht, uya kuvuzwa ngesiqwenga somazantsi e-Italiya esihlala siqinisekile kwimvelaphi yaso ukungabikho kweprofayili ephezulu.

• T + L Izikhokelo zeSixeko: Izikhokelo zangaphakathi kwiidolophu zase-US ezivela kubahleli boKhenketho + loLonwabo

Qala ngolwandle. Amanzi apha zezona zicocekileyo e-Itali, ngenxa yolondolozo lwaselwandle olunonxweme (kuye nabani na obukele iMarlboro engenanto engenanto egxobhoza kumjelo ongezantsi kwegumbi labo lehotele elingama- $ 900 ebusuku ePositano, inokuba sisizathu esaneleyo Ndwendwela). Iidolophana zaseCilentan zezona zinembali ehambelanayo nezingatshintshanga ngokwenkcubeko eMezzogiorno: I-Acciaroli, isiqingatha seyure ezantsi kunxweme ukusuka ePunta Licosa, inezindlu zamatye ezinemibala yebhisikidi eneminyango epeyintwe ngombala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, kunye nezibuko elinamachaphaza eefestile apho wena kunye ipati yakho inokuba, nokuba kusehlotyeni, ibe kuphela kwezizithethi ezingezizo ezomthonyama zase-Italiya, nanjengoko besiyintsasa yangoMgqibelo. U-Ernest Hemingway wayehlala apha ngeminyaka yoo-1950; Kuthiwa uthathe inkuthazo kangako Indoda endala nolwandle kubalobi be-Acciaroli abanxibe ilanga-uninzi lwabo lusabeka amaphenyane ngokhuni yonke imihla ekuseni kunye menaiche , iminatha yesiko eyenziwe ngesandla — njengokuba wenzayo kwiintsuku zakhe zokugqibela eCuba. Idolophu yenqaba yamaxesha aphakathi yaseCastellabate, i-labyrinthine kunye ne-haunted-feeling, nditsho ngexesha eliphithizelayo lika-Agasti, yindawo yeLifa leMveli le-UNESCO. Ngokuncamathela ngokuqhushumbayo elityeni, inqaba yayo yakhiwa ukuze ijonge ulwandle olwalulawulwa ngokwahlukeneyo kwiinkulungwane ezadlulayo ngabakwaNorman, abaphangi, kunye neeSaracens. Kude emazantsi, kufutshane nomda kunye ne-Basilicata, sithathe utshintsho lwasendle ngokunyuka kobuso bengxondorha ebonakalayo kunye nomnatha omncinci weLentiscosa, apho indlela incipha ukuya kwiinyawo ezili-10 xa umntu edlula nje kancinane kunokuqhwanyaza nje kwakudala Umbindi wedolophu: ezine iibhloko ezithuleyo zenziwe mnyama yiBaroque palazzi kwaye ihlala abantu abayeke ukudlala amakhadi abo ukuze bajonge njengoko uqhuba.

• Jonga iimpazamo zeNkcubeko eziMbi kakhulu kwihlabathi

Into iCilento esweleyo kuyo ngokukhawuleza iyenzela imvelaphi: kwiminyaka engama-2 700 eyadlulayo, le ndawo yayisisihlalo seMagna Graecia, kwaye igcwele ngeentsomi zangaphambi kobuKristu. I-Paestum, kwiThafa laseSele elikwiimayile ezimbalwa kumantla ePalazzo Belmonte, yindawo yezona tempile zamaGrike zigcinwe kakuhle kwiMeditera, kwaye iSele ngokwayo yaziwa njenge inqwelomoya yoothixo , okanye ithafa loothixo, kwiinkulungwane zeminyaka; IPunta Licosa yindawo engaphefumlelwanga yokuzibulala kuka-siren Leucosia (waziphosa eweni wasweleka emva kokusilela ukutsalela u-Odysseus kuye). Kwaye le yi-Italiya, kukho nelifa lendawo yokutya; amatye alo ekona ahlonelwa Inyathi mozzarella waseCampania (ethe yazuza iwonga laseItali iDenominazione d'Origine Protetta; i-State Route 18, ebaleka ifama isiphelo esisemazantsi se-Sele Plain, saziwa njengohola wendlela u-mozzarella) kunye amakhiwane amhlophe dottati , amakhiwane amhlophe alinganayo amhlophe akhula kwiinduli ezijikeleze iNtaba iStella. Kwaye kukho ezinye: i-Paestum artichokes ebomvu ebomvu; soppressata ephilisiweyo evela eGioi; cacioricotta yebhokhwe , I-ricotta yobisi lwebhokhwe lwasekhaya olucekeceke. Usenokuzifumana — kunye nokubanjiswa kweentlanzi zaselwandle (amanzi angangcoliswanga kunye nemigaqo engqingqwa yokuloba ilingana nencasa, ngesiqhelo iipesenti ezili-100 zokhetho lwezinto eziphilayo) - ekhaya U 'Mazzeno, i-osteria emibalabala kwindlela yomhlaba ekhokelela I-Punta Licosa, njengoko ukwigadi yethala eRistorante Il Caicco, ixhonywe phantse iwaka leenyawo ngaphezulu kolwandle eCastellabate.

Ukutyeba kwendalo, ukutya okucothayo; kwingcinga yesibini, kwenzeka njani ukuba le ndawo ingazaliswanga ngama-Italophiles azibiza ngokuba-okanye ngaphandle kweendawo zokuhlala zaseWinnebago ezipakishwe? Mhlawumbi yinto nje yexesha; Inene, inkosana iyavuma kwiingcinga zayo zokwakha inkampu entle, enesitayile iMasai Mara kwiihektare zayo ezingama-400 ngelinye ixesha kule minyaka imbalwa izayo, siqinisekile ukuba baninzi abantu abathanda indalo, abacinga phambili nabaseBritane nabaseMelika abakulungeleyo ukuya emazantsi I-Salerno yokufumana isilayidi sezulu lakhe.

• T + L Izikhokelo zeSixeko: Izikhokelo zangaphakathi kwiidolophu zase-US ezivela kubahleli boKhenketho + loLonwabo

Okwangoku, iPalazzo Belmonte ayisiyiyo kuphela indawo entle kule ndawo yokuphumla intloko. Ebekelwe iinduli ezingasentla kwePaestum nguIl Cannito, igumbi lokulala kunye nesidlo sakusasa elinamagumbi amane lavulwa ngo-2006 nguAnna Maria Barlotti Gorga, umpheki wamashumi amahlanu kuloo ndawo. Ukusasazeka kwezindlu ezimbini ezisusela kwinkulungwane ye-13, u-Il Cannito ugximfizwe ngophawu oludityanisiweyo, oludala-oluhlangana-nolutsha oluhombisa amaphepha e-glossy ayi-12 eemagazini zase-Italiya. Imiqadi eqingqiweyo erhabaxa yenziwe mhlophe; Imizobo yala maxesha kunye neetelevishini ezibonisa iflethi zixhome ezindongeni; izindlu zokuhlambela zigcwele izindlu zangasese ezinamakha ekhiwane ezikwiibhotile ezincinci ezintle. Amathambeka abanzi e-travertine enemibala enethambo afakwe umthi yi-oki eneminyaka engama-300 ubudala, ibonwa ukusuka ezantsi ngokuhlwa. Ngoncedo lwabantwana bakhe ababukeka bephilile ngaphambili, uSanta, 29, kunye namawele uAntonella kunye noNicola, 25, uAnna Maria wenza isidlo sangokuhlwa (ispaghetti esitsha esine-bram clam broth, baked sea bream) ekhitshini lakhe lobuchwephesha, ohlukaniswe nendawo yokutyela ngeminyango yeglasi yokutyibilika ngombane efakwe kwiindonga ezindala. Ngexesha lasemini, iindwendwe zamkelekile kwi-lido yabucala yaseGorgas elunxwemeni nje ngaphaya kweetempile ePaestum. Kukho iindawo eziyimfuneko zabakhampi kwindawo yokupaka ingca; kukwakho neebhedi zelanga, iiambrela, kunye nebha efulelwe ngengca kunye nepizzeria enomgangatho omkhulu owenziwe ngomthi. Inkqubo yesandi ijonge kwi-reggae okanye kumculo waseNtshona Afrika kwiintsuku apho silapho, sisela iiCoronas okanye iiglasi zeFalanghina kwilanga lasemva kwemini. Sibona iinyibiba ezimhlophe ziphuma entlabathini. Luhlobo lwendalo, uyachaza uNicola. Ewe, ulwandle beluya kuthambeka ukuba belususwe, uyavuma, kodwa sikhetha ukubayeka bakhule; azintle?

Phezulu kwendlela yiTenuta Vannulo, eya kuyo Inyathi mozzarella kancinci ukuba Ukukhwaza kweXhalanga kunye neHarlan Estate kuyintoni eCabernet Sauvignon: ubugcisa, bunqabile, buyaziwa. Nge-8 kusasa, abantu sele bemi emgceni eminyango ye-bottega yeshizi eyenziwe iiyure ezimbini okanye ezintathu ngaphambili. Umnyango olandelayo, ikhefi- iyogurteria ithengisa iyogathi, ipudding, iricotta, kunye nejelato, konke kwenziwe ngobisi lwenyathi. Umnini weVannulo, u-Antonio Palmieri, dapper ngeebhulukhwe ezimhlophe zelinen kunye nomnqwazi we-panama, uyasibonisa. Amaziko obuchwephesha aquka oomatshini bokuthambisa benyathi, abathi balungelelane ngokujika kwabo phantsi kweeroli (inkomo ekhululekileyo inesisa, ithiyori iyahamba). Silapha ukuza kubona i- edlulisiweyo U-Antonio kunye nenkosikazi yakhe, uCaterina, bayakha ukulungiselela iindwendwe zobusuku bonke- abathengi, abathengi abanokubakho, abahlobo, kunye nabo bathanda imozzarella yokwenene ebazise apha kuhambo. Izindlu ezikwisakhiwo esincinci sefama esilungisiweyo, sinezinto ezimbini ezintle. I-Pompeii ebomvu kunye ne-terra-cotta ilawula; Izinto zakudala ze-Neoclassical zichithakele malunga. I-Versace-esque overtones, efanelekileyo indawo efanelekileyo apha eMagna Graecia, intle kakhulu. Apha ngezantsi kwamagumbi kukho indawo ekungcamlwa kuyo efumileyo, emanzi kunye nephunga lezimbiwa, kukho ukukhanya okungacacanga kunye neetafile apho iindwendwe ezikhetha iseshoni yabucala zokungcamla ziya kunikwa iimveliso ezilungiselelwe lo msitho. Chic, cwaka, isitayile, oku kuncinci edlulisiweyo yayifumaneka lula kumbindi weRoma. Ngaphandle kokuba iimayile ezimbalwa kude ziitempile ezandulela uninzi lolwakhiwo lwaseRoma; kwaye awukwazi ukufumana iVannulo Inyathi mozzarella , okanye iVannulo nantoni na, kwivenkile enkulu yaseRoma-okanye, kwinto enkulu, kwivenkile enkulu yaseAmalfi.

• Jonga iimpazamo zeNkcubeko eziMbi kakhulu kwihlabathi

Ukubuyela ePalazzo Belmonte ngokuhlwa, senza indlela yethu yokutyela ngaphandle, ibekwe engceni eluhlaza ejonge elunxwemeni ihotele yabucala, ukuze ufumane isikhuselo. Emva kwethu, iihektare ezintlanu zegadi enomthi wesundu yolulela kwilitye elikhulu lepalazzo. Bajongiwe ngothando, kodwa akukho namnye ngokuqatha kakhulu: i-profusus ye-bougainvillea kunye ne-wisteria ayihoyi imida yeendawo zabo; Iimbiza ze-terra-cotta ezizaliswe ngamakhandlela zisasazekile ngaphandle kobugcisa obuqondakalayo obujikeleze iitafile kunye neendlela zomhlaba. Ihotele nayo inobuhle obumangalisayo-umhlaba omncinci kuye, ukusuka kwindawo yokubhalela yaseSmythson kumagumbi (ebhalwe isitayile sendlu yelizwe kunye noSanta Maria di Castellabate, Salerno) ukuya kwiibhedi zentsimbi ezindala kunye nokungabikho komqondiso amasango ezindlu; kukho nje ibhaza ebhalwe iBelmonte.

Udonga olude olwahlula amabala kwidolophu yaseSanta Maria, exakekileyo nenomtsalane kwiinyanga zasehlotyeni, kunye nebhodi yamatye endala, iindawo ezimbalwa zokutyela, kunye nevenkile enye okanye ezimbini ezithengisa iimbadada ezenziwe ngesikhumba kunye neCalypso- isimbo sokusonga elwandle. Oko kukuthi, ikufutshane iCilento ifika kwiindawo zobunewunewu ngakumbi, njengePorto Ercole okanye iPortofino — okanye iPositano, ebonakala nje ngaphesheya komwonyo, ikroza eliqaqambileyo eliqaqambileyo ngongcwalazi olugubungeleyo.

• T + L Izikhokelo zeSixeko: Izikhokelo zangaphakathi kwiidolophu zase-US ezivela kubahleli boKhenketho + loLonwabo

Nini ukuya

UJuni ulungele imozulu elungileyo kunye nezihlwele ezimbalwa. U-Agasti yeyona nyanga inabantu abaninzi.

Ukufika apho

Bhabha kwisikhululo senqwelomoya saseNaples kwiDelta Air Lines okanye eAlitalia udlula eRoma. Ukusuka apho, qasha imoto iiyure ezimbini zokuhamba usiya emazantsi okanye uthathe uluvo kuloliwe waseTrenitalia ( luvkalim.it ), egqitha eSalerno iye eAgropoli.

Uhlala phi

Il Cannito

Ukuhamba ngeCannito, eCapaccio-Paestum; 39-0828 / 196-2277; ilcannito.com ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-345 yeedola.

I-Inn yoonongendi

Nangona kubuchwephesha nje emazantsi eCilento kwidolophu yaseMaratea, le ndawo yayisakuba yindawo yoonongendi-esandula ukwenziwa liqela le-Stein-inamagumbi alula, e-chic kwaye yenza isiseko esihle sokuhlola unxweme. Via Carlo Mazzei, Maratea; 39-0973 / 876-139; www.isoft.ru ; Iphindwe kabini isuka kwi $ 342.

Ibhotwe laseBelmonte

Nge-Via Flavio Gioia, Santa Maria di Castellabate, Salerno; 39-0974 / 960-211; palazzobelmonte.com ; iphindwe kabini kwiidola ezingama-404.

Apho utya khona

Uxinzelelo

Ungavumeli indawo evuselelekayo-kwisitalato esecaleni kule dolophu inkulu yanamhlanje-ikuthintele ekufumaneni ezinye zezinto zokutya zaselwandle ezihlaziyekileyo kunye neyona pizza intle. 31 Ukuhamba ngeMadonna del Carmine, Agropoli; 39-0974 / 843-044; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-80.

Irestyu yaseI Caicco

Nge-Via San Biagio, eCastellabate; 39-0974 / 967-291; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezili-160.

Irestyu yaseCormorano

13 Ukuhamba ngeCarlo Pisacane, iZibuko laseAgropoli; 39-0974 / 823-900; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezili-140.

UTenuta Vannulo

Ukuhamba nge-10 ngoGalilei, uContrada Vannulo, uCapaccio Scalo; 39-0828 / 724-765; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezingama-62.

U ’Mazzeno

Ukuhamba ngeProvinciale, Ogliastro Marina, Castellabate; 39-0974 / 963-522; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini.

Yintoni omele uyenze kwaye uyenze

ICastellabate

Ngolwazi lwedolophu: kwiHolo yeSixeko, ePiazza Lucia; 39-0974 / 967-530.

Paestum

917 Ukuhamba ngeMagna Grecia; elsikai.it; 39-0828 / 811-016; Ukwamkelwa kwmyuziyam $ 6.20; kubandakanya ukufikelela kumanxuwa, $ 10.

Velia

Ukwamkelwa kumanxuwa: Contrada Piana di Velia; 39-0974 / 972-396; amatikiti $ 3.

• Uluhlu lwayo ngo-2008: Elona hlabathi liphezulu kwiihotele kunye neeapos