Ukuwa kwakusele kuhamba kakuhle eKyrgyzstan. Isibhakabhaka sasemva kwemini sasiqaqambe ngokuqaqambileyo, kwaye umoya opholileyo, opholileyo ziincopho zekhephu zeTian Shan, iiNtaba zaseZulwini, wabiza ibhatyi. Abelusi abangoonothwal 'ecaleni konxweme olusemazantsi e-Issyk Kul echibini babesele beqokelele imfuyo yabo kumadlelo alpine kwaye babakhulula kwintlambo ebanzi exhonywe phakathi kweentaba kunye noluhlu olufanayo lweenduli ezinje ngetyali ephoswe kwimitya emibini yeengubo. Umhlambi oxubeneyo weenkomo kunye neegusha zisasazeke kuluhlu olungabiyelwanga, isilwanyana ngasinye i-atom edangeleyo kwindlela yayo, ukusasazeka kancinci kobungqina bendawo ye-cosmic entropy. Abelusi abakhwele amahashe babebagcina bejongile. Ekuqaleni, ukusuka apho bendimi khona ezindulini, andinakukwazi ukwenza abakhweli: isikali somhlaba we-miniaturized trotting yabo.

Ukufika komzingeli wokhozi, wayenxibe iimpahla zeli lizwe elidlulayo kodwa wakhwela iHonda Fit, ihashe eliqandusela kumathafa aseKyrgyzstan ngenkulungwane yama-21. Isinxibo sakhe sasiquka idyasi yesilika edityaniswe ezinzulwini zobusuku phakathi kwebhulukhwe yeamethiste yentsimbi kunye neebhulukhwe ezimfakamfele zegolide; Iibhotshi eziphakamileyo emadolweni; Kwaye, ibhanti, umtya onzima wesikhumba odityaniswe yibhanti yentsimbi enkulu kune-smartphone yakhe. Umnqwazi wakhe wawuyindebe yokuzingela - uboya bayo obuzele ngumsi obabushukunyiswa ngumoya ngokungathi yingcuka esaphilayo- kunye nabalandeli bakhe babebandakanya umncedisi onxibe iimpahla ezifanayo, ezilula, umqhubi onxibe iimpahla zangoku, kunye neenkozi ezimbini zegolide. Umncedisi waphakamisa enye yeentaka engalweni yakhe yasekunene wakhwela kwinduli ekufutshane ekhwele amatye. Ngomqondiso womzingeli, wavula ukhozi emoyeni.

Yayijikeleza ngaphezulu. Umzingeli wabiza, yaze yatsala kwi-gyre ewayo eyomeleleyo kwaye yakhawuleza yehla. Umzingeli wabaleka, etsala intambo eqhotyoshelwe kulusu lwengcuka. Ukhozi lwangena emanzini lwaza lwafika ngoko nangoko, lulwa neenzipho zalo ngaphandle kwegazi. Umvuzo wayo yayiyi-chunk ye-pigeon eluhlaza, kwaye yayisitya ngogonyamelo, ngaphambi kokuba isule umlomo wayo ucocekile kumzingeli ongenanto kwaye ibambe ubuso bayo ngothando lwezilwanyana ezanyisayo.

Isiko lokufunda umzingeli wokhozi, Ndafunda kumguquli wam nakwisikhokelo sam, uAziza Kochkonbaeva, kukuqokelela intshontsho lasendle esidlekeni nokuliqeqesha ukuba lizingele. Ngokwesiko nangokomthetho, uyakubuyisela intaka endle emva kweminyaka eli-12 ukuya kweli-15. Ndibuze apho zazivela khona iinkozi ezimbini zomzingeli- kwaye zakuze zibuyele phi ngenye imini, zinyukele kwiindawo eziphakamileyo zobuthixo. Umncedisi wakhomba kwi-Tian Shan, ikharavani engayekiyo yeencopho ezinqumla ilizwe kwiindawo eziphakamileyo zeHimalaya, kwaye wajonga emva kwam.

Apho, watsho.

Phambi kohambo i-Asia eseMbindini yayiyeyam, ukuba ayisiyonto ingenanto kwaphela kwimephu yam yengqondo yehlabathi, ubuninzi kwindawo engeyiyo echazwe ngamazwe angqonge yona: iRussia, China, Afghanistan ne Iran. Kweso sithuba ndadibanisa amazwe amaninzi awayesakuba yiSoviet -stanstia, phakathi kwawo kukho iKyrgyzstan, iqabunga loonobumba ababedelela ukubhalwa kwamaNgesi, kunye neUzbekistan, apho izixeko zazinegama ngqo kwimibongo yase-Orientalist - iKhiva, iBukhara, iSamarkand. Uhambo lwam lweentsuku ezili-10 nomfoti umfaki-zithombe uFrédéric Lagrange laqala kwelokuqala, ukuze babone indalo kunye noonothwal 'impahlana, laze laphela elokugqibela, kwizixeko zalo zakudala iSilika Road

Kuwo omabini la mazwe, abantu endandidibana nabo babenembeko, benomdla, kwaye beyinyamezelo, imikhwa ekunokwenzeka ukuba yandiswa ziinkulungwane zorhwebo nabantu abangabaziyo ekunqamleni kobukhosi. Omabini la mazwe ayekwanobuninzi beelwimi kunye neenkcubeko ezahlukileyo-inkcubeko yokuxuba eyinyani. Uyilo lwabo kunye nobugcisa bokuhombisa lunokufundwa njengezahluko zencwadi enkulu yembali, ebalisa amabali kwimilinganiselo emithathu malunga nokuphakama nokuwa kwabalawuli nemikhosi.

E-Kyrgyzstan, ndaziva ngathi i-Central Asia's genetic tether eya eMongolia nase China. Indawo esempuma yelizwe, iKarakol, ine-mosque eyakhiwe ngo-1904 ngamaTungans, iimbacu zamaSilamsi ezivela e-China, ngendlela ye-pagoda epeyintiweyo. Isiqingatha sekhilomitha ukusuka apho, icawa yecawa eyenziwe ngomnqamlezo obunjiweyo imi phakathi kwegadi yeelilac, yesibini kuphela kwigumbi likaStalin elalikufutshane. E-Uzbekistan, ii-minarets eziphakamileyo esibhakabhakeni, iibhakana zam ezibonisa indlela endizula ngayo xa ndibhadula phakathi kwezitena zodaka, zixelelwa ngempembelelo yeTurco nePersi. Blink kwaye ngamaxesha ubunokuzicingela ngokwakho kuMbindi Mpuma.

Ngexesha nasemva kohambo, ndachitha ixesha elininzi ndijonga iimephu, ezandenza ndacinga ngendlela ezichaphazela ngayo ukucinga. KwiiNkqubela ze-Renaissance and Enlightenment, ezipapashwe ngokubanzi Imephu yoqikelelo yeMercator ye-1569 yacanda iAsia yaya kwisiqingatha, iphosa ukunqunyulwa kwamalungu kwelinye icala lephepha. Kwiinkulungwane kamva, xa iziko lamandla ehlabathi litshintshele e-United States, imephu yokuqikelela yeRobinson - eyagunyaziswa ngo-1963 nguRand McNally kwaye isasetyenziswa ngokubanzi-yenza ngcono ngokubeka iAfrika kufutshane neziko lemephu nokugcina amazwekazi ephelele. Kodwa yatyhala iAsia yaya kwikota yesine ephezulu- ngaphaya phaya.

Ngokungathandabuzekiyo njengabantu abaninzi baseMelika, ndacinga ukuba i-Asia eseMbindini yayiyeyona mbono iphosakeleyo. Akunjalo ngaphaya. I-Asia eseMbindini yayiyeyona ndawo iphambili kwihlabathi, inabantu abaninzi, izixeko ezinobunkunkqele ezibeka iintloni ngasemva, iindawo ezincinci zaseLondon naseParis. Iindlela zayo zorhwebo zazidibanisa amandla amakhulu e-China, Persia, kunye ne-India. NgesiNgesi sihlala sibhekisa kolu nxibelelwano lwentengiso njengeNdlela yeSilika, ngokungathi yayiyeye-monolithic, kodwa sinokuthetha ngokuchanekileyo ngeeSilk Roads, isininzi. Kangangeminyaka eliwaka, babopha iXi’an kwintshona yeTshayina ukuya eBaghdad, eDamasko, eJerusalem, eConstantinople, eAthene naseAlexandria. Intambo enye yesilika engafakwanga ndawo ukuya eVenice, apho iinkosana zabarhwebi zahlawula iPalladio, iTitian, kunye neTintoretto ngenzuzo evela kurhwebo lweSilk Road.

Isebe elinye elisemantla le Indlela yeSilika yawela indawo ngoku eyiKyrgyzstan. Iikharavani zeenkamela zeBactrian zithwele ilaphu kunye nezinye iimpahla zorhwebo ezinexabiso eliphezulu ezibizwa eBalasaghun, iikhilomitha ezingama-50 empuma yenkulumbuso yanamhlanje eyakhiwe yiSoviet eyakhiwe yiSoviet, iBishkek, ngoku ehlala abantu abamalunga nesigidi. Ngaphambi kowe-1218, xa amaMongol ahlasela kwaye isixeko esityebileyo satyeba ngenxa yokuphangwa kunye neenkulungwane zenyikima kunye nokhukuliseko komhlaba, ezinye iimephu zehlabathi zabeka iBalasaghun embindini.

Umlawuli waseTurkey owayengaziwa ngenkulungwane ye-11, owayesandul 'ukuguqukela kubuSilamsi, wamisa i-minaret eyi-148 yeemitha ubude apho yaziwa ngokuba yiBurana Tower apho ubizo lwe-muezzin lokuthandaza lwawela phezu kwezifundo zobuKristu, zamaBuddha, nezeZoroastrian njengesixhobo sokujoyina umlawuli. kwinkolo yakhe entsha. Kodwa i-minaret, ebuyiselwe ngokuyinxenye ngexesha leSoviet, yayindivusa kabuhlungu kwisixeko esineenkcubeko ezininzi kunangcwaba lenkulungwane ye-14, elalinamatye entloko abhalwe ngesiTurkey, isiArabhu, isiCyrillic nesiLatin. Imyuziyam encinci ibonise izinto zakudala ezivela kule ndawo: Iithayile zamaSilamsi ezigqunywe nge-polychrome geometry; umnqamlezo wamaNestoriya, mhlawumbi ngenkulungwane yesithoba; ilitye lesikhumbuzo lamaBuddha lenkulungwane yesixhenxe; i-sphinx e-serene ebhalwe kwiphepha lobhedu.

Ndihlala ndisithi iNdlela yeSilika yayiyi-Intanethi yeminyaka, uKochkonbaeva wandixelela. Ucacise ukuba kwi-Intanethi, kulapho uya khona namhlanje ukufumana ulwazi, ukufunda ulwimi, okanye ukuthenga nantoni na ongayifumaniyo kufutshane. KwiNdlela yeSilika, urhwebo lwalusezimvo njengoko izinto zazihamba. Kulapho ungafunda khona ngeYurophu, uqhubeke, endenza ukuba ndicinge ngoMarco Polo, unyana womthengisi weSilk Road, owasuka eVenice ngo-1271 njengomlumkisi oneminyaka eli-17 ubudala kwihlabathi. Ngelixa engakhange afike kude emantla njengangoku eyiKyrgyzstan, wabonisa isizukulwana esitsha, esinomdla wabantu esifunyenwe kunye, kwaye mhlawumbi senziwa yi, Indlela yeSilika: umhambi wehlabathi.

U-Kochkonbaeva walatha i-vitrine ezaliswe yimali yaseTshayina egqojoweyo ukusuka kwinkulungwane yesibhozo ukuya kwele-12. Yayiyidola yendlela enkulu yeSilika, utshilo. Kutshanje ndibakhenkethi baseTshayina bandixelele okubhaliweyo kubo.

Ndothuswa yile nto yayithethwa nguKochkonbaeva: ukuba loo magama, umyalezo wezopolitiko owenziwe ngabalawuli bobukhosi baseTang kwindawo ephezulu kwimpucuko yaseTshayina kwaye wanyathela kwimali yokugcina ixesha, zazisabonakala emva kweenkulungwane, ngexesha lokuqala iYurophu kunye emva koko u-Melika wagqogqa amandla e-China ngaphambi kokuba uBukumkani obuPhakathi buvuke buzokulwela ulawulo lwehlabathi.

Iingqekembe zafundwa Urhwebo, ukuchuma, uxolo.

IKyrgyzstan, intaba kunye nomtsalane, inikezela ngezixhobo ezisisiseko zabakhenkethi. Sasihamba imigama emide kwiindlela ezirhabaxa ukuze sifike ezindlwini zeendwendwe ezilula, sihamba ngokutya okutyiwa kwiindawo zokutyela ezingavalwanga. Inyama yegusha kunye neetapile zaye zoyisa, nangona itafile yesidlo sakusasa yayithetha ulwimi lwesiTolstoyan sejam currant emnyama kunye nejamberry.

Indlela yokuqhuba kwiintsuku ezimbalwa ezizayo ijikeleze i-Issyk Kul, imayile yesibini ngobukhulu emhlabeni emva kweTiticaca kwiiAndes. Ngaselunxwemeni olusemantla, amaqondo obushushu apholileyo asehlotyeni kunye nokujongwa kwelanga kujonge iindawo zokungcebeleka elwandle kunye nemithi yeapile, ezazisinda ngeziqhamo ngexesha lotyelelo lwethu. Kunxweme olusemazantsi olungazinzanga, imithi yeapilkosi, edume ngombala wokuwa xa sasimisa kwigadi yeziqhamo yesidlo sasemini, sakhula saba ngasemanzini. Isithonga seTian Shan sabiza iintaba ezinomthunzi - zigutyungelwe ngamafu, zithintela, ngokungathi isihlalo soothixo abangaziwayo-babiyelwe echibini elisemantla, kwaye emazantsi, iintaba ezinelanga zibonisa ukukhanya kwemini okungenakucima kunye nokucaca okunzima okungaqhelekanga kubahambi abangcwele kunye nabanyuka iintaba.

Iintaba zatsala nathi. Ngentsasa yethu yesibini, ukuqala okubandayo, umqhubi wadibana nathi eKarakol kwindawo yakhe ephindaphindayo yamaxesha eSoviet, i-jeep eyakhiwe njengebhokisi eyomeleleyo yentsimbi. Yonke into eyiSoviet ongafiyo U-Kochkonbaeva uqaphele, eqamba i-neologism eluncedo yamandla angenakubakho. Umqhubi wavavanya ubuninzi bakhe eAltyn Arashan Gorge, kwindlela eya kwindlu yeendwendwe ngaphezulu komgca womthi. Kungekudala emva kokumisa, umzila omdaka wahlanganiswa namatye aqengqelekayo kwaye wonakala ngakumbi njengoko wawunyuka ngaphezulu kwesilayidi, amasimi amatye, kunye namanqwanqwa amatye amdaka ngodaka kwaye axhonywe ngemingxunya. Umqhubi wayengakhathali kwaye encokola njengaye nawuphi na umntu okruqulayo osebenza emini, kwaye wasixelela ngeqela labakhenkethi abancinci baseJapan awathi walibamba kwakanye. Uloyiko lwaphakama phakathi kwabo xa babexhuma bajikeleza igumbi labakhweli de enye, yaphuma engqondweni yakhe luloyiko, watyhala ucango lwaxhuma kwisithuthi esihambayo.

Yintoni imfihlo yokungabambeki? Ndibuze, njengoko i-UAZ ikhazimla kwimingxuma yodaka kwaye ikhuza phezu kwelitye. U-Kochkonbaeva wahleka nzima ngaphambi kokuba abambe umphefumlo wakhe ukuze aguqulele impendulo yakhe. Uthe, ‘Yintoni emenza acinge ukuba siza kubambeka?’ Ngexesha labakhenkethi, umqhubi ugqibezela uhambo lokuya nokubuya kabini ngemini.

Ngokuhamba ngenqwelo moya ngeyure enye ukusuka eBishkek ukuya eTashkent, ikomkhulu laseUzbekistan kunye nesona sixeko sikhulu (abemi: 2,4 yezigidi), sashiya iintaba neentlambo kumathafa asentlango, sithengisa umoya ophakamileyo oqaqambileyo ngomsi omnye notshiswe lilanga. Kwakuyindiza emfutshane phakathi kwehlabathi ezimbini: Emaphandleni nasezidolophini. Oonothwala kunye nezolimo. Iindawo zokuhlala zabantu abaninzi kunye nezindlu zamaplanga. Uboya kunye nesilika. Ii-apile kunye neevatala. Sahamba ngoololiwe abahamba ngesantya esiphezulu abafika ngomzuzu kwaye ngobusuku obunye bahlala ehotele echazwe njengeenkwenkwezi ezintlanu, nangona oko kwakuthetha kakhulu kumnqweno wayo kunokufikelela kwimigangatho yobunxiwankulu ebusebusuku. Ukutya kuphuculwe, nako: uluhlu lwe-meze-pickles, iidiphu, iisaladi eziqaqambileyo ezihlaziyiweyo ngamayeza-kunye nokucokiswa kwe-kebabs endaweni ye-bony stews.

Isikhokelo sethu e-Uzbekistan, uKamal Yunusov, waqhayisa esithi umama wakhe wakhuliswa ukuba athethe iilwimi ezintathu: isi-Uzbek ekhaya, isiFarsi xa sisenza ishishini, kunye nesiArabhu senkolo. Ngexesha lethu sikunye, wayenomdla wokuhambisa umyalezo wokuba i-Uzbekistan, esoloko ililizwe elinabantu abahlukeneyo, namhlanje sisizwe sanamhlanje esikhulayo. Emehlweni akhe, umahluko neKyrgyzstan wawungekhe ucace gca.

Ndiyayithanda iKyrgyzstan, watsho kwintlanganiso yethu yokuqala. Abantu baselula, bavulekile, banekratshi, kwaye bayayikhathalela imeko-bume yabo. Abantu ababekade behambahamba.

Kodwa uzbekistan! Ewe, ulwimi lwase-Uzbek ngoku lwalunokukhethwa kwi-Apple ye-iOS 13. Kwaye urhulumente wase-Uzbek wayenze lula iimfuno ze-visa, ngoko ke iinqwelo-moya ezingqalileyo zazifika zisuka eRoma, eParis naseFrankfurt. Iihotele ezitsha ezingama-55 zazakhiwe ukulungiselela abakhenkethi. Inokuba yeyiphi eyona nde inde e-Uzbekistan ebisaqhubeka!

Ubuncinci, inguqu yase-Uzbekistan yangemva kweSoviet ityhila indlela ubungxowankulu obubuyisela ngayo i-Asia esembindini kwindawo yezoqoqosho kunye necebo elibalulekileyo. Ubunkokheli belizwe buqonda ixabiso leendawo zalo ezinembali njengedraw yeedola zabakhenkethi. Mhlawumbi nangobuqili ngakumbi, ihlanganise ukuzingca ngeqhawe lesizwe u-Timur, okwabizwa ngokuba yi-Emperor Tamerlane-unyana womalusi oneentshebe ezibomvu owoyisa uninzi lwehlabathi elaziwayo kwinkulungwane ye-14. Ixesha elidlulileyo elizukileyo lisetyenziselwa ukukhuthaza ikamva eliqaqambileyo. Kwibala laseAmir Temur, iziko elibukhali leTashkent entsha, umfanekiso oqingqiweyo wamahashe waseTamerlane ukhwele esiya edabini nxamnye nezakhiwo zanamhlanje: i-Modernist Hotel Uzbekistan, i-relic yaseSoviet, kunye neholo yendibano yemabula emhlophe emhlophe eyayibizwa ngokuba yi-Palace of International Amaqonga.

Ngapha koko, uTamerlane wayengomnye kuphela umlawuli owoyisayo phakathi kwexabiso lentyilalwazi. Nditsaleleke kubunkunkqele bokubonwa awabuzuza njengelifa ukusuka kwixesha le-Samanid, xa i-Uzbekistan yayiyinxalenye yePersia: yashukuma phambi kwamehlo am kuyo yonke indawo. Kwimyuziyam yaseTashkent yobugcisa, egcinwe kwindlu yendlu yembali eyayihlala unozakuzaku we-czarist ngexesha loMdlalo oMkhulu, xa iRussia ngenkulungwane ye-19 kunye neBritane babambana ngolawulo lwe-Asia eseMbindini, amagumbi apheleleyo abekelwa bucala iiragi ezinamaqhina, iingcango zomthi eziqingqiweyo, izikrini ezifakwe ifreyim, kunye neentsimbi ezenziwe ngegolide ezenziwe ngentsimbi eDamasko. Emva koko, isidlo sethu sasemini ngokufanayo sibonise ukumatsha kweenkcubeko kulo mmandla wonke. Yunusov wayalela inyama izele yinyama ebizwa Somsa, eyamkhumbuza ngoBabur, umnqobi wenkulungwane ye-16 wehla evela kuTamerlane noGenghis Khan. Xa uBabur eqhubela eIndiya ukuba afumane ubukhosi bukaMughal, washiya i-pastry eyaziwa ngokuba yi-samosa.

Iindawo ezivela eUzbekistan naseKyrgyzstan Ukusuka ekhohlo: Iindonga zodaka ezirhangqe isixeko esidala eKhiva, eUzbekistan; umbhali kunxweme lwe-Issyk Kul. | Ityala: UFrederic Lagrange

Emva kwemini sibuyele kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya ukuya kuhambo oluya eKhiva, olona dolophu lukude lwedolophu yaseUzbekistan iSilk Road, eyakha yaba yindawo ebalulekileyo kwingingqi yentlango yaseKorezm. Ubungqina bemivubukulo buchaza umhla wokuhlala kwiminyaka eyi-1,500 eyadlulayo, kodwa akukho nto yakhiwa ngezitena zodaka kunye nemithi ye-elm esinda kwisimo sezulu kunye neentubi. I-Khiva ihlala isenziwa rhoqo. Ngaphezulu kweendonga zamaxesha aphakathi, eyaqala ukubekwa ngenkulungwane ye-10 kwaye yaphakama yaya kutsho kwi-30 yeenyawo kwezinye iindawo, indlela yokuhamba ephakamileyo yahlulwa ziifrentshi zobubanzi besandla apho amanzi emvula ayifumene indlela eya kumbumbi wangaphakathi. Ngaphandle kokulungiswa, kwenye inkulungwane okanye malunga neso sixeko sasiza kutshitshiswa.

Ukubuya kwam kumanqwanqwa, ndagqitha umsebenzi wokuhlaziya eAmir Tura madrassa. Iibhodi ezibhodi zinike inkcazo ngeelwimi ezimbini ngeprojekthi ngesiMandarin kwaye, ngohlobo oluncinci, isiUzbek. Kodwa intsingiselo yeza ngemifanekiso: ifoto yesathelayithi ekuMbindi weAsia egqunywe ngeeNdlela zeSilk ecaleni kwendlela yokuxhawula phakathi kukamongameli waseTshayina uXi Jinping kunye no-Islam Karimov, umongameli wase-Uzbekistan ozimele geqe ngo-1991 de kwasekufeni kwakhe ngo-2016. terse Ingcaciso yesiNgesi: Urhulumente wase-China uncedisa kwiprojekthi yase-Uzbekistan yokubuyiselwa kwelifa lemveli lenkcubeko.

Imali yaseTshayina iphinde iqukuqele esixekweni ngasinye kwiiNdlela zeSilika. Kwi-2013, u-Xi wabhengeza i-Belt kunye ne-Road Initiative, umgaqo-nkqubo wezopolitiko noqoqosho ozimisele ukwenza enye into ngaphandle kokwenza uthungelwano olutsha kwezorhwebo ukusuka e-China ukuya ku-Mbindi Mpuma nase Yurophu. UXi uthembise phantse i $ 1 trillion kutyalo mali lweziseko zophuhliso ukudala iipaseji zoqoqosho ezintsha ezindleleni ezintandathu zakudala. Kwimeko enjalo, urhulumente wase-China uncede ekubuyiseleni i-Amir Tura madrassa yinto nje yamandla athambileyo, indawo efumileyo yobutyebi.

Ukungena kwezoqoqosho e-China kulo mmandla akuhambanga kungaphikiswa. I-Turkey ibambe iwonga lokwakha i-mosque enkulu ye-Asia Ephakathi, evulwe e-Bishkek e-2018. Kwi-Ribbon-cut-cut-President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan uvakalise ithemba lakhe lokuba utyalo-mali luza kuvuselela izibophelelo zembali phakathi kwe Anatolia ne Central Asia. Abadlali batshintshile, kodwa uMdlalo oMkhulu uyaqhubeka.

I-mosque eBukhara kunye nokuhonjiswa e-Khiva Ukusuka ekhohlo: I-mosque yaseKalyan, eBukhara, e-Uzbekistan; Ivenkile ethengisa iimpahla e-Khiva. | Ityala: UFrederic Lagrange

Ukusuka eKhiva, sahamba ngololiwe sinqumla iNtlango eBomvu, ithafa elibizwa ngokuba yintyatyambo yasentwasahlobo, ukuya eBukhara. Esi sixeko sidume ngePo-i-Kalyan, indawo enkulu yamaSilamsi ebekwe nge-Grand-Minaret eyi-150 yeenyawo, kodwa indawo yethu yokuqala yokumisa yayiyindlu yesikhungu eyayinokudlula ingakhange iqatshelwe. I-diaspora yamaJuda yafika eBukhara kwangoko ngenkulungwane yesibhozo, kwaye ngakumbi i-emigrés yafika ngamaza ngexesha loMnqamlezo, emva kweSigqibo saseAlhambra saseSpain sowe-1492, nakwinkulungwane yama-20. Ukuhamba kuye kwajika kuphela nge-1970s, xa iSoviet Union yaphelisa isibheno sokufuduka kwaye amawaka ekugqibeleni ashiya kwa-Israyeli okanye e-United States. Namhlanje inani lamaJuda iBukhara liye lancipha lafikelela kwi-100.

NjengaseKhiva, isiseko sembali yesixeko sigcina i-labyrinth yayo yamaxesha aphakathi yeendlela ezincinci kunye neendlela ezingaboniyo. Kodwa kwiindawo ezixakekileyo, abahlali abangenanto yakwenza nomzi mveliso wezokhenketho baqhubeka nobomi babo phakathi kwezikhumbuzo - iRoma ukuya eKhiva’s Venice. Kwi-mosque yaseKalyan, umfana othile wayehamba ngebhayisekile ubude bentendelezo engaphakathi enkulu njengenkundla yebhola; Iigalari ezinamagumbi amathathu okanye amane eevalves ezinzulu zakha iperimeter. Ngaphakathi kwintendelezo, iqela lamadoda aneentshebe laqokelelana lajikeleza isitulo ukuze liqhubeke nengxoxo enzulu. Ukuya kwabantu kwezenkolo kwehle ngama-90 eepesenti kwinkulungwane ephelileyo, u-Yunusov wachaza kamva, kwaye kule mihla kuphela kwexesha le-Kalyan mosque eligcwalisa inani labanquli abayi-12,000 ngeentsuku zokubhiyozela ezifana ne-Eid al-Fitr, ukuphela kweRamadan.

Kufutshane naseGrand Minaret, uYunusov wachaza ukuba ezo icon zoyilo lwamaSilamsi, enyanisweni, zavela phakathi kwamaZoroastria ePersi, kuwo umlilo wawungcwele. Ekuseni ngobuSilamsi, ama-muezins abiza abathembekileyo ukuba bathandaze bevela eluphahleni, watsho. Emva kokuba inkolo yoyise iPersi, baqala ukukhwela kwimilambo ngaphambili ezazisetyenziswa njengezibane zelizwe zabahambi basentlango bazisebenzisa ngokutsha, zigcina kuphela inkumbulo yomlilo, irharnati, kwigama elithi minaret. Kunzima ukutsho ukuba i-Islam igqibezela phi kwaye iinkolelo zesiko ziqala phi, wavuma. Ubuhle be-Asia eseMbindini kukuba umntu ngamnye uyanyibilika kwenye nenye.

Iindawo ezivela eUzbekistan Ukusuka ekhohlo: Isitalato esikumbindi wembali yaseKhiva, esibonisa iithayile eziglasiweyo ezifumaneka kwizixeko ezininzi zeSilk Road; kebabs sasemini eVobkent, Uzbekistan. | Ityala: UFrederic Lagrange

Ngomso olandelayo, owokugqibela, umboniso wesizwe wezikhumbuzo eSamarkand, apho iTamerlane ihlala eGur-e Amir, indawo emnandi eyalindela ubuqaqawuli bukaMughal beTaj Mahal. Intliziyo yesixeko esidala yayiyiRegistan, isikwere esenziwe ngamadrassas amathathu amisiweyo phakathi kwenkulungwane ye-15 neye-17. Nangona yakhiwe njengesikhumbuzo sokholo kunye nokufunda, eyona nto yayikhunjulwa yiRegistan Square, njengeSt.Peter's Basilica, yayinobutyebi namandla. Khange ndibucinge ubukrelekrele bokuyila kunye namandla apheleleyo afunekayo ekwakheni ezo zihombiso zobukhosi. Kunzima ukucinga ukuba isiphumo esothusayo kwamehlo aphakathi asincitshiswanga lixesha lokujonga kwizikrini.

Ngethuba, ngobusuku bangaphambi kokuba ndikonwabele utyelelo lwemizuzu embalwa kule ndawo idlulileyo ikude ngaphambi kombane. Kwakukho umnyama eBukhara. Ndisandul 'ukubuyela ehotele yam, indlu yabahambi enezitayile ezakhiwe ngeenxa zonke kwintendelezo esembindini, kwaye ubumnyama sele bugqithile kwiimbombo zayo. Xa amandla ephelileyo, ndahlala ngaphandle kwegumbi lam ndamamela: ingqumbo yamahlungulu, inja ingxola ukujongwa, emva koko isondele ezinyathelweni. Umlindi wehotele weza namakhandlela amabini kwitreyi yobhedu.

Wasebenzisa eli thuba ukuziqhelanisa nesiNgesi kum. Igama lakhe yayinguIslom, yaye wandibuza ukuba ndandiphi eUzbekistan. Ndimdlalile isiqwengana sesandi esirekhodiweyo endisenzileyo eKhiva, somdlalo wesitalato. Abadlali bezixhobo ezimpunga yayingamadoda onke, iimvumi ezivuyayo liqela loomakhulu abadanisa ngenkululeko kunye nemincili kangangokuba ndachukumiseka, njengaxa ndibukele abantu bedanisa emtshatweni. Inokuba babedlala ingoma malunga namaxesha okonwaba. Ndibuze kuIslom ukuba uyayazi na.

Ewe, watsho. Yeyona ngoma yesibini idumileyo eUzbekistan. Yayingu, wachaza emisa, ingoma amakhwenkwe kunye namantombazana amancinci ayecula xa bethandana kakhulu.

Kodwa abadlali beqonga endibabonileyo badala kakhulu, ndatsho, bemqhula, ndibona ukuba angawafumana na amazwi okuchaza.

Kulungile, watsho, ulungele umceli mngeni. Babadala, kodwa ba… kwaye wabethabethana.

Bayakhumbula? Ndicebisile.

Ewe! UIslom watsho. Bayakhumbula.

Imiboniso yaseKyrgyzstan Ukusuka ekhohlo: Amakhwenkwe asesikolweni kwilali ekufutshane neIssyk Kul; imithi yepoplar yinto eqhelekileyo kule ndawo. | Ityala: UFrederic Lagrange

Cwangcisa uhambo lwakho lweSilk Road

Ukufika apho

Akukho ndlela imfutshane kwi-Asia Ephakathi. Eyona ndlela ilula eya eBishkek okanye eTashkent ihamba ngeIstanbul nge Iinqwelomoya zaseTurkey , ebonelela ngenkonzo kwezona zixeko ziphambili zase-U.S. Abemi base-US banokuhamba ngaphandle kwe-visa ngaphandle kweKyrgyzstan ukuya kuthi ga kwiintsuku ezingama-60, kwaye iUzbekistan ngoku ibonelela I-e-visa zeentsuku ezingama-30 ngeedola ezingama-20. Ukufumana imali kunokuba yingxaki, ke yiza namatyala amatsha atshintshisanayo.

Khirgizstan

Qala e-Bishkek, ikomkhulu elikhuselekileyo nelinocwangco, apho ndandihlola i-Osh Bazaar kunye nomtsalane we-Central Mosque. Ndahlala kwinto encinci, enomtsalane Ihotele yeNavat , ekhonza isidlo sakusasa saseTurkey. Ngaphandle kweBishkek, imoto kunye nomqhubi kubalulekile, kwaye iivenkile zokutyela kunye neendawo zokundwendwela zithobekile. Amanxuwa edolophu yakudala yaseBalasaghun kunye nee-petroglyphs eCholpon Ata kufanelekile ukutyelelwa kwindlela eya kwiindawo zokuchithela iiholide echibini kunye noluntu oluhambahambayo olujikeleze i-Issyk Kul. Kwimpuma yeli chibi, sahlala Ukumkanikazi uKench , indawo yokulala ebekwe phakathi kwezitiya zeapile. Kufuphi neKarakol iziva ngathi yidolophu yokufuya i-Idaho, kuphela uthuli, kodwa yindawo yokutsiba kwindawo entle yeAltyn Arashan Gorge, ejikelezwe yintaba egcinwe ngamahlosi ekhephu neenkampu zeyurt zasehlotyeni. Ekubuyeni kwethu eBishkek ngeKongur Olön Valley - ezantsi kweemayile ezininzi zendlela engagangathwanga - ubuhle bendawo babumnandi.

Uzbhekistan

Awungekhe uphulukane ne-mosque, i-minarets, kunye ne-madrassas, kodwa wenze ixesha leemarike kunye neemyuziyam. E-Tashkent, iChorsu Bazaar ibonelela ngeehektare ze-halvah, kurt (iibhola zeshizi ezomileyo zomoya), kunye neevatala ezizukileyo; i IMyuziyam kaRhulumente yoBugcisa obuSetyenzisiweyo ithatha indawo yokuhlala yommeli wangaphambili. Ndabhabha empuma ukusuka eTashkent ndaya eUrgench, isikhululo seenqwelomoya esikufutshane ukuya eKhiva, emva koko ndasebenza ukubuyela kuloliwe ohamba ngesantya esiphezulu. Isixeko esinezitena zodaka iKhiva sijongwa kakuhle ukusuka phezulu kwindonga yodongwe; ihotele ekhululekile Malika Kheivak kuphakathi kweendonga zesixeko esidala. IBukhara yayiyeyona nto ibalulekileyo: Ndandizithanda izitalato zamaxesha aphakathi, indawo enkulu yemosque yasePo-i-Kalyan, inethiwekhi yokupholisa imijelo, kunye nokuhlala kwam kwindawo eyayisaziwa njenge-madrassa, Ihotele Minzifa . Iindawo eziphambili zaseSamarkand, iRegistan Square kunye neGur-e Amir, zibalwa phakathi kwezikhumbuzo ezinkulu zehlabathi. Ihotele Platan kunye nendawo yokutyela edibeneyo kwindawo yokuhlala enamagqabi yaseRussia.

Umcebisi wezohambo

Umcebisi wezohambo ku-T + L u-Jonny Bealby, owamisela olu hambo, ebenomdla kwi-Central Asia amashumi eminyaka-waze wabhala incwadi malunga namava akhe okuhamba kwindlela yeSilika ngehashe. Inkampani yakhe, Imida yasendle , ibonelela ngeenkonzo zokucwangcisela ukhenketho kumazwe kuwo wonke loo mmandla, kubandakanya iTajikistan, iTurkmenistan, iKazakhstan, iNtshona China kunye neAfghanistan. Iindlela ezifanayo ezivela kwi- $ 3,950 kumntu ngamnye.

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