Ipullover ebomvu i & apos; d epakishwe ayizange ibenalo ithuba. I-Ditto ihempe yomqhaphu eprintwe ngohlobo lweProvençal, nangona ndandizibulale ndileqa ikopi ngqo kaPicasso awayeyinxiba ngeentsuku zakhe njengombumbi kumazantsi eFrance. Ndilithathile igumbi lam eLa Bastide de Marie kwimizuzu nje embalwa ngaphambili, kodwa ilizwi eliqinileyo ngaphakathi lindixelele, 'Madame ngekhe avume.'

Kwiinyanga ezikhokelela kulo mzuzu wovalo, uJocelyne Sibuet — umnini weLa Bastide kunye ne-haute conceptualizer-kwaye bendithethile kaninzi emnxebeni, sishiyelana imiyalezo emininzi, sithumela imiyalezo emininzi ngabahlobo, kunye ndikonwabele ukutyunjwa kwabantu abaninzi kangangokuba ndaziva ngathi ndiyamazi. Ngoku lalifikile ixesha lokuba i-head-to-head kunye ne-boutique ephezulu ehotel eFrance, ngubani & apos; wenza igama lakhe eMegève kwii-Alps zase-France kunye ne-Les Fermes de Marie, i-rustic-chic hamlet yezakhiwo zasefama zase-Savoyard eziguqulwe zaba indawo yokuhlala entle yeendwendwe ezihlawulayo. E-France, i-Sibuet kunye ne-apos; yonke intshukumo ifundwa njengamagqabi eti kwi-honchos yehotele-ehotele, abahleli bokuhombisa, abenzi be-lampshade-nabani na onemali yokufumana imali kwibala lezemidlalo ubugcisa bokuphila. Yeyiphi indlela evuthuza umoya? Jocelyne usixelele.

ILa Bastide de Marie liSibuet & apos; inqanaba lakutshanje lokuthetha, igumbi lokulala elinamagumbi ali-12 axhonywe kwindlu yasefama eMennerbes, iimayile ezingama-24 kwimpuma yeAvignon phakathi kweentaba ezithandekayo, ezingagungqiyo zeNtaba zeLubron. Le yiProvence yee-cicadas ezichukumisayo, ukutshisa ubushushu be-hallucinogenic, ingozi enobushushu emfutshane abalimi, kunye ne-thyme yasendle iqhekeza phantsi kweenyawo. Umazibuthe woluntu lwekhefi kunye nabapolitiki kunye nababukeli behlabathi bezobugcisa abathanda ukuphosa imali yabo kunye nosaziwayo ngeenxa zonke, iilali ezinembali zaseLubéron-Ménerbes, Roussillon, Gordes, Bonnieux, Lacoste-yeyona ndawo ikufutshane eFrance enayo kwiiHamptons.

ILa Bastide isethwe kwipasile engama-37 eehektare yeSibuet & apos eyakho isidiliya, iDomaine de Marie, evelisa umbala othembisayo obomvu, omhlophe, kunye nerosé eCôtes du Lubéron. Ukuxubana nomgangatho wentlambo kunye nokuxhaswa yi-let-them-eat-truffles, ayifuni & i-apos; t-matter-how-is-cost-as-as-as-we-achieve-the-right-effect budget, it & apos zipakishwe ngefeksi yokulahla Ukuchukumisa kwasekunene ezenze iihotele zeSibuet kunye neeapos zibe ziitikiti ezishushu. (Ndikunye nomyeni wakhe, uJean-Louis, uphethe i-Cour des Loges eLyons, kunye neehotele ezintlanu eMegève.) NjengoLes Fermes de Marie, iLa Bastide yintsomi yasemaphandleni, eneempawu ezomeleleyo zikaMarie Antoinette odlala i-milkmaid eVersailles. Leya iphiramidi Isepha zaseMarseille Kwivenkile yokutyela & apos; igumbi lomgubo linokubonakala ngathi libubudenge, kodwa lalakhiwe ngocoselelo nguMadame, ibhloko ngebhlokhi. Umtsalane kwaye isacholo Ngaba ngawona magama aphathwa gadalala kwishishini lasehotele laseFrance. Kodwa iLa Bastide inokuzisebenzisa ngaphandle kokugwetywa.

Njengoko kuvela, yayiyinto elungileyo ukuyidibanisa i sweta ene-alamu ezine. Kuba, ngaphezulu kweentsuku ezimbalwa ezivuselelayo nezingaphefumliyo azichithe noSibuet eMénerbes, wazityhila njengowesifazane onemigaqo engagungqiyo apho ubuhle kunye neembonakalo zichaphazelekayo, umntu ongenalo ixesha labaphikisi. Undikhumbuze umhlobo wam ongasekhoyo, uNicole de Vésian, umyili wegadi ohleliyo owayehlala kwiilali ezimbini eBonnieux. UNicole wayekhe wasala isipho sokucheba izihlahla, echaza ukuba ngelixa izibambo zabo zeorenji zaziza kwenza ukuba kube lula ukuzibona belele engqonge igadi yakhe, igemthi abaza kuyidala ayamkelekanga. EMelika sinamapolisa ezemfashini; eFrance bazibiza ngokuba zii-gendarmes zesitayile.

Hayi, utshilo uSibuet, onebhulethi efana nejokhi, ukutya kwakhe akuvumeli umbala omninzi. Usenokuba ne-greige-abayili bathethe loo mthunzi ungadluliyo phakathi kwe-grey kunye ne-beige-kwisidlo sakusasa, isidlo sasemini kunye nesangokuhlwa. Akangeni kushicilelo, nangona uthe watyhalwa wavuma ukuba basebenzise njenge-aksenti. Ukukhankanywa kwento amaFrentshi, aboleka ngokungalunganga kumaNgesi, ayibiza ngokuba yi 'le look Provençal,' yamenza wabhabhayisa. Ubekhona, uyenzile loo nto, intetho yakhe yatsho. Isitayile sakhiwe ngokujikeleza ii-cottons zaseIndiya eziveliswe kwalapha ekhaya, ezinomgangatho othintelweyo othintelwe ngesandla, obhabha kwi-mistral kuzo zonke iimarike kwaye ubabetha kakhulu abakhenkethi baseMelika.

'YONKE INTO YOKUSEBENZA IYONKE,' utshilo uSibuet. Wayehleli kwithambeka laseLa Bastide apho iindwendwe ziphiwa isidlo sakusasa phantsi komthi womoba owahluliweyo, ejonge kwimidiliya ehamba kwangoko ukuya kwihostela. Kwaye ndakhumbula: ihempe yam yeProvençal, eyayibonakala ilungile xa ndiyibhatala kakhulu eMadison Avenue, ndenza isono esintathu sokuba pinki, ipateni, kunye nepasi. (Qaphela inqaku lakho: Sika ilahleko kwaye ushiye ngasemva umgcini wokupaka.)

Hayi, akukho nto icace gca okanye indawo eqhelekileyo njengokushicilelwa kwe-folkloric kuvunyelwe indima ephambili kwiJocelyne Sibuet & apos; ukukhanya okumangalisayo kwelizwe laseFrance, indawo entsha, ethe cwaka ethatha apho uPierre Deux ayeke khona. Ukujonga kwe-Sibuet kunye ne-apos; kubekanye kwangoko kuthambile, kuyaphucuka kwaye kwavela, i-gutsier kunye nehlabathi. Eyona nto ibaluleke kakhulu, ukutolikwa kwakhe kukwa modish ngakumbi.

Uyamangaliswa ukuba isihlalo sangoku seLouis XVI sangoku sibonakale sigqunywe njani kwilinen enemibala yendalo. Isilingi yelitye kumagumbi eendwendwe, ibethwe ngeebhatyi ezininzi zomhlophe, zikhanya ebumnyameni. Kwigumbi lokuhlambela, isitayile esityikityiweyo nguPhilippe Starck silungelwe ngaphezulu kwento engento yelitye lekalika eliqingqiweyo kude. Kwaye ngaba ndikhankanyile ii-curveballs zokuhombisa? IiSofa ezinemifanekiso eqingqiweyo emiselweyo kunye neefreyimu ezimiselweyo ziyaphakanyiswa. . . idenim. Ayingo gogo & apos; s Provence.

Hayi ngaphandle, nokuba. Idama lokudada elimile kakuhle njengo-L-umjelo, inene-lixhoma udonga oluphezulu kwintendelezo yokungena. Ifayile ekhoyo ichibi egadini sisiqalo sesibini, ichibi elikwinqanaba ezimbini elichithekele kwisiqingatha esingaphezulu kwempembelelo yengxangxasi. Kwaye ayisiyiyo eyona nto ilula yokukhwela ngaphakathi nangaphandle, kwaye izulu liyakunceda ukuba unengxaki yedolo. Kodwa intle.

Ngenye intsasa, phakathi kokuginya kwekofu yeinki kunye nokulunywa kwendlu efriziweyo eqhuqhekezwa yitshokholethi, uSibuet wavula ithiyori emise iLa Bastide. Imizuzu engamashumi amane kamva wabonakala emoyeni. Ndacinywa; wayesaqala.

'Andiyiyo imali,' ucacisile uSibuet. Andizukuyithenga ihotele enokuphumelela ibaleke, kuba ayizukushicilela kum. Ndinomdla wokudala. ' Nokuba ayisiyiNdlu yeendwendwe okanye ihotele, iLa Bastide, utshilo, ikhuthaza ezona mpawu zintle zombini. Inendawo yokundwendwela indlu yeendwendwe, thabatha imiceli mngeni kunye nobunzima bokuzenza ukhululeke komnye umntu & kwigumbi lokuhlala, apho wena & apos; sikoyikise & apos; uya kuchitha iti yakho okanye ubethe into. Inika inkonzo kunye nentuthuzelo yehotele encinci, kodwa ihotele kuthetha ukuba kuninzi kakhulu kweziko ukusichaza. Siyakuthanda ukuhlala kule niche-akukho mntu unokusibeka kwislot. '

Akukho mntu ufuna esinye isizathu sokutyelela iProvence, kodwa ekwenzeni iLa Bastide, uSibuet ulwenze mnandi uhambo. Yonke into iphakathi kwendawo yokufikelela kunye nokuchukumisa indawo yehostele. Iindawo zeminquma, ii-allées zemithi yeplani, amawa e-ocher aqingqiweyo ngumoya, kunye namahlathi omsedare anika indawo yokuma komhlaba. Distilleries kukhupha toasted, impumlo-ukujija ivumba le lavender. Iicawa zase-Romanesque kunye ne-Cistercian abbeys zibolekisa ubuhle bazo obuqaqambileyo. Iidolophana zamandulo zazifanele ukuba ziyekwe kudala njengezinto ezingathandekiyo, kodwa ke bayaqhubeka, abo bathandekayo njengoGordes baminxwa ngabahambi bemini, abo bangahoywanga abanjengoCaseneuve bethe nca kwisiporho somoya. Ezinye iivenkile zokutyela zisabhiyozela i-Provençal culinary trinity yetumato, ikonofile kunye neoyile ye-olive. Kodwa baninzi kakhulu ngabo baqala ngaphezulu kokuqonda ukutya okumnandi, 'okusokolayo' kwasekuhlaleni (iLa Bastide ngumoni kwisidlo sangokuhlwa kodwa hayi ngesidlo sasemini).

Ukuqhuba okufutshane kukubeka kwindawo entle engaqhelekanga yeAlpilles, uluhlu lweeLubéron & apos, apho ujiko olungelulo olunokuzisa ubuso ngobuso nenye yeemoto zevan Gogh & apos. E-St-Rémy, indawo kunye ne-apos; indawo enokwenzeka, isuka kwindawo ephezulu (undwendwela iindawo zokuhlala zaseRoma zaseGlanum) ukuya ekuhlekiseni (ukuzingela inkosazana yaseGrimaldi eLe Café des Arts). Kwaye ngelixa i-Musée du Petit Palais e-Avignon igcina ingqokelela engaqhelekanga yemizobo yoKuvuselela i-Italiyane, kufutshane nesiseko sekhaya indawo ekubhakwa kuyo ukutya imyuziyam eBonnieux kunye nomnyuziyamu wecorkscrew eMénerbes. Ukufaka izifundo zokuhombisa ozifundileyo eLa Bastide, yiya kwimarike yentakumba e-Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, uthenge isikram esityiwa ziintshulube, usifake ucingo kwisibane.

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UKUTHI U-GENIE OPHUMLA UKUKHANYA ngaphandle kweethoyi zeediliya uyangqinelana nokuchwetheza akuthathi nto kubuchule bakhe bukaNapoleon ekwakheni ubukumkani obuncinci. Njengawo onke amanye amabhinqa angcamla i-I & apos; siyaziwa, i-Sibuet inokuzimela kwaye inelungelo lokuzazi. Xa esazisa, 'Ndiza kuvula ishishini lokuhombisa ngomso, akukho ngxaki,' awumthandabuzi. Ngapha koko, iSibuet iphantse yalapho. Emva kokubona imifanekiso kaLa Bastide kwiphephancwadi laseFrance, enye yeendwendwe zakhe eziphindayo eMegève, waseMelika, wamthuma ukuba enze indlu yakhe eCalifornia. 'Yiyo & apos; yiyo!' wamxelela. 'Yile nto kanye kanye kanye endiyifunayo !! Sukutshintsha umsonto !!! '

USibuet wayengenazicwangciso zokwandisa ubukhosi bakhe emazantsi xa, ngo-1997, wafumanisa ukuba enye yeefama ezinkulu zaseLubron zazisemarikeni. Bezama ukuleqa, yena noJean-Louis bayithenga, bathatha isigqibo-kwaye phantse kwangoko bathatha isigqibo sokungazigcineli indawo yabo njengendlu yeholide.

'Yayinkulu kakhulu kuthi nakwintombi yethu, kwaye asizukusebenzisa kakhulu kuyo,' ukhumbula uSibuet. 'Ukuthenga lo mhlaba kubonakala ngathi kukuzingca. Sifuna ukwenza into eza kuyenza iphile. '

Njengamafama amaninzi kwingingqi, iLa Bastide yakhiwa ngokuhamba kwexesha, ukuqala ngekhulu le-18. Bengakwazi ukuwusebenza umhlaba ebusika, amafama ayegcwalisa iinyanga ngokufaka igumbi elongezelelekileyo ezindlwini zabo okanye ngokulahla ingqolowa. Ngale ndlela, iLa Bastide yaba yinto ephilayo ukuba ayisoloko isenzeka ngokufanelekileyo ukuqokelela izakhiwo ezihlala ngaphezulu kosapho olunye.

Umsebenzi omkhulu wokuguqula ubuhle, ukuba bungaphambi kwexesha, ukuhlala nemigangatho yomhlaba ebethiweyo, udonga oludilikayo lwamatye anombala webhiskiti, kunye nophahla lwethayile olunamaxolo olwenziwe ngumnini wangaphambili. Ukudiliza iindonga zangaphakathi kunye nokubeka ezinye, i-Sibuet yabela kwakhona indawo-i-1,800 yeenyawo ezikwere kumanqanaba amathathu-ukudala amagumbi eendwendwe kunye neendawo zikawonkewonke. Oku kubandakanya i-salon ende enendawo yokungena emlilweni, kunye neebhokisi zeencwadi ezikwindawo efanelekileyo yokuthambeka, ipeyinti yabo eqweqwe iflaya njalo kwaye igcinwe ngamahlelo emini yemvula, efana no-Auguste Nicolas & apos; s 1858 umqulu omane inkolo yamaKrestu . Ukucinga ukuba kuyingozi kakhulu ukuqesha kuphela amagcisa angazange asebenze nawo, uSibuet wehlisa eMegève abafanayo, abapeyinti, kunye neengcali zepatina ababesebenzisana naye apho. Iingcibi zasekuhlaleni zamfundisa izinto zommandla ezinje ngeengcango zeeplanga ezibheke kabini kunye nophahla lomthi kunye nomthi.

Ngawaphi amaxabiso ayiliweyo, i-Sibuet ayishiyi nto ngela xesha-njengoko owayesakuba ngumongameli wethu wakutshanje angatsho, 'Ukuba ufumana ufudo kwindawo ebiyelweyo, khange afike ngengozi.' Kwaye anganomdla ngakumbi kwindlela ezijongeka ngayo izinto kunendlela ezisebenza ngayo. Ukuba, njengam, into yokugqibela oyenzayo phambi kokucima isibane kukususa iwotshi yakho, uyibeka phi kwitafile esecaleni kwebhedi engenakulinganiswa ngokwaneleyo ukuba ingabamba isibane? Akukho mntu uxelele abasebenzi ukuba kufuneka & ampos; silwe phambi kweendwendwe. Xa ndabuza umphathi ukuba ndingaboleka ipeni na, wandixelela ukuba akukho nanye — akukho namnye, naphi na, kuyo yonke indlu yabahambi — kwaye ipensile, i-Monsieur, kuya kufuneka iyenzile. Ukutya phantsi kweenkwenkwezi, utya kwindawo emnyama, ethi, njengoko benditshilo, ikwanjalo. Ngokunyanzelwa kwebhodi yesiqingatha, iqhinga kukutya isidlo sangokuhlwa kunye nesidlo sasemini, kuba izitya zasemini zilula kwaye zinomhlaba. UJohn Dory ubhakwa ngeminquma, iitumato, kunye nefennel, kwaye sikhatshwa ziitapile ezicujiweyo ezifakwe ioyile yomnquma. Inkukhu egcadiweyo enuka kamnandi irosemary inikwa kunye nayo jus kunye ne-casserole encinci yentsimbi enomtsalane yemifuno ye-caramelized.

Oku kungavakala kungundabamlonyeni, kodwa, ekugqibeleni, xa ndidibene noSibuet, andinako ukunceda ukuzibongela ngokuba andimkhubekisanga (kwaye ndifikelele esiphelweni sale nto ngaphandle kokukhankanya uPeter Mayle). Ngoku, & ampos; andinamkhwa wokufuna ukwamkelwa ngabanye. Okokugqibela endikwenzileyo yayikukusweleka kukaDade Parish ongasekhoyo, 'inenekazi lokuqala laseMelika yokuhombisa,' endabhala incwadi encinci kuyo. Ngaphambi koko kwakukho uMadeleine Castaing, onokuthi achazwe njengesiFrentshi, iBalzacian version kaNksk Parish. Ndiyakucaphukela ukuyivuma, kodwa bendifuna uJocelyne Sibuet andithande. Nantoni na ayithengisayo, ndiyayithenga.

IINYANISO

La Bastide de uMarie, Rte. de Bonnieux, Quartier de la Verrerie, Ménerbes, eFrance; 33-4 / 90-72-30-20, ifeksi 33-4 / 90-72-54-20; www.labastidedemarie.com ; iphindwe kabini isuka kwi $ 360.

KUPHI EMAKUTYWE khona
Xa & apos; ungatyi eLa Bastide, jonga ezi ndlela zikufuphi.

Indlu encinci Indawo de l & apos; angtang, Cucuron; 33-4 / 90-77-18-60; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-68. Umnini weChâteau de Bagnols eLyons, uHelen, uLady Hamlyn, uqhubeke nokuvula le bistro, ehambisa inyama yenkomo ebalaseleyo.
Ihovini Indawo eyi-5 ayikwazi, Bonnieux; 33-4 / 90-75-83-62; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-46. I-Sibuet iyayikhuthaza le nto inokuthenjwa ukuba indawo yokutyela enesimo esiphakamileyo kwi-asparagus yayo kunye nezitya zayo.
Bistro waseFrance Indawo ye-67 de Place de la Bouquerie, Apt; 33-4 / 90-74-22-01; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezingama-35. Yima kule bistro emva kokunyathela iApt & apos kwimakethi yentsasa yangoMgqibelo.