I-Ottoman yavela rhoqo kwizikhokelo kunye neapos; Ukubaliswa, ubukho babo njengendawo yemozulu. Ngaba inqaba eyakhiwe ngokutsha saya kuyo eVeliko Tarnovo, eBulgaria? I-bulwark ngokuchasene ne-Ottoman Turks kude kube li-1393, xa bayitshisayo bayithatha. I-Budapest kunye ne-apos; yeempawu zokuhlambela zikawonkewonke? Ilifa lase-Ottoman. Iinqaba ezikhuselayo kwinkulungwane ye-12 yeTransylvanian citadel yaseSighioara? Ukuqikelela ukuba ngubani owakhelwe ukukhusela ngokuchasene naye.

Luya kuqala phi olunye uhambo, emva koko, ngaphandle kweIstanbul? Wonke umntu usichaza isixeko-ikomkhulu lase-Ottoman phantse kangangeenkulungwane ezintlanu, ukusukela ngo-1453 de kwagqitywa ubukhosi kunye ne-apos ngo-1922-njengommangaliso. Kodwa, ngasizathu sithile, I & apos; d zange ndaziva ndinomdla wokuya. Ngokukhawuleza nje ukuba imoto yam evela kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya igqumeke induli, nangona kunjalo, kunye ne-labyrinthine metropolis yatyhilwa ngezantsi, ii-minarets ezidinga ngathi ziintambo ze-cactus kunye nomjelo we-Bosporus obonisa ukungcola oku-purple-pink, ndayifumana. Kuyamangalisa.

Okokuqala kukho kunye ne-apos; ubungakanani bayo obukhulu: Istanbul likhaya labantu abangaphezulu kwezigidi ezili-15. Ihamba ihamba phambili, i-jumble enkulu yephahla elinee-tiles, i-promenades ehamba phambili yamanzi, kunye ne-maze kwi-maze yeendlela ezincinci, ze-Byzantine. Ke kukho iiposografi zayo ezonwabisayo, ezithatha iYurophu neAsia kunye neBosporus phakathi, indawo enezinto ezinobuchule kunye nezorhwebo ezingenakuphikiswa kangangokuba akumangalisi ukuba isiza sihleli ngokuqhubekayo kangangeminyaka engama-3 300. Isixeko esiphilayo sihleli ngasembindini wembali, umphezulu wahlatywa ngezikhumbuzo zalahleko: iinqaba, amatye ezikhumbuzo kunye nokufunyanwa kwezinto zakudala okuvelisa isityalo kakhulu ngalo lonke ixesha umntu ebeka umhlakulo emhlabeni.

Emva kobusuku kwihotele i-Four Seasons Istanbul e-Sultanahmet, abanye abantu endikhwele nabo eDanube Express kwaye sahamba ngenyawo ukuya kukhenketha indawo esencotsheni yenduli eyayisakuba sisixeko esineedonga zaseRoma iByzantium. Phakathi kwenani lethu kwakukho ixhegwazana laseNgilani elidala elalisoloko linxibe abamhlophe abafezekileyo, abahluzekileyo; isibini saseMelika esikhuphisanayo kwiminyhadala yamahashe; kunye nomyeni waseAustralia kunye nenkosikazi kwiinyanga ezintathu ezichasene ne -ode, amazwekazi amabini e-odyssey.

U-Yiğit Tahtalioğlu wayengumkhokeli wethu e-Istanbul, kwaye nangona wayenobubele kwaye enesifundiswa, wasinika imali eninzi mhlawumbi yolwazi lwethu kwangaphambili, esenza imfesane ngathi, 'Kwaye ke bekukho amaSkitiya ...' Kodwa umfanekiso omkhulu-uBukhosi base-Ottoman kunye ne-apos Iimpawu ezibalulekileyo zobukhulu, ubomi obude, kunye nobunzima-zaqhutywa ekhaya ngokumisa kwethu okokuqala, iTopkapi Palace. Oku kwaba sultans & apos; Indawo yokuhlala ukusuka embindini we-15 ukuya phakathi kwinkulungwane ye-19 kunye nesihlalo sabo samandla ngaphezulu kwendlela enkulu yommandla, kubukhosi kunye ne-apos; s, ingabandakanyi kuphela umhlaba wonke uloliwe wethu oza kuthi chu chug kodwa okuninzi, ngakumbi ukusuka eAlgeria ukuya eIraq, naseCroatia ukuya eSaudi Arabia.

Izakhiwo zeTopkapi & apos zinde kwaye zisezantsi kwaye, emehlweni am, zihonjisiwe ngaphantsi-ubuncinci xa ucinga nge-sultans & apos; ubutyebi obugqithisileyo. Zijikeleze iigadi ngoku ezicacileyo kodwa ezakhe zaba yiparadesi, zigcwele ii-tulips kunye neeroses, iipikoko kunye namabhadi. UTahtalioğlu wakhomba kwiikholamu ezingalinganiyo ngaphandle kwebhunga lobukhosi kunye negumbi leapos, elenziwe ngegranites kunye neemabhile ezivela kwimimandla ekude yaseOttoman kwaye ijolise njengezikhumbuzo ezifihlakeleyo zamandla amakhulu kunye nezixhobo zeentlanganiso zamadoda ngaphakathi.

Emva koko wasikhokelela ngekona ukuya kwindawo yabafazi. Kobu bucala bufihlakeleyo, uSultan wayehlala nomama wakhe kunye nezinye izalamane zabasetyhini kwaye, ngokukhohlakeleyo, inani eliguqukayo lamashweshwe ababhinqileyo. Liqhezu elincinci lamagumbi alo angaphezu kwama-300 avulelekileyo eluntwini, kodwa ndaziva ndiphazanyisiwe kwaye ndicinezelekile xa sihamba ngamagumbi amaninzi aneethayile kunye neepaseji ezijijekileyo. Ngasihlandlo sithile saphuma saya kwintendelezo evulekileyo apho iifestile ezinemigangatho ejonge ngaphesheya kwamanzi esiya esixekweni, kwihlabathi elibanzi kodwa elingenakufikeleleka.

Emva kweTopkapi, iTahtalioğlu yasithatha sayodlula eIstanbul kunye neapos ezisele ziziiBig Three: uHagia Sophia, icawe laseByzantine elalixakekile ngenkulungwane yesithandathu lajika laba liSilamsi; iBlue Mosque, ubunzima bendlu kunye ne-minarets ezazikho, xa sasindwendwele, phantsi kwesahlulo esinzima sokubuyiselwa; kunye neGrand Bazaar, intengiso enkulu egutyungelweyo evakala ngathi ngumdlalo wevidiyo apho, endaweni yeentshaba, amadoda anikezela ngeerugs aphuma macala onke. Zonke ezi ndawo bezinyanzelekile kwaye zibalulekile kwaye kufanelekile nge-Tahtalioğlu & apos; s erudite iinkcazo, kodwa bezixinene kakhulu, kwaye imini ibishushu. Ngexesha esikhwela kuloliwe ngorhatya, i-app yezempilo kwifowuni yam yathi I & apos sihambe iikhilomitha ezisixhenxe, kwaye andifuni kwanto ngaphandle kokuhlamba.

Amava am angaphambili ngamaeshawa oololiwe ebethambekele kokungundoqo, kodwa kwiDanube Express bendinevenkile eneglasi kunye neeL & apos; Iimveliso zebhafu yeOccitane, zombini ndizibonisile njengoko uloliwe wayephuma kwisikhululo saseSirkeci. Kwigumbi lam elinophahla elinamaplanga, ndandihlala ecaleni kwefestile yomfanekiso ndisele icappuccino kwitafile encinci, okanye ndingqengqe ecaleni kwesinye isofa eyayingqengqeleke umqamelo, eyayigcinwa ngumlindi ebusuku.

Inqwelomoya elandelayo yayiyimoto yebha, apho iijita ezimhlophe ezineglavu zijikeleza iziselo kunye nezitya zeekristale zetshiphusi. Indoda yadlala imigangatho yejazz kwikhibhodi kwaye ngamanye amaxesha-fumana le-saxophone. Imoto yokutyela yayilandelayo ezantsi komgca, umbono welinen emhlophe kunye nokubengezela, indawo ecwangcisiweyo. Ndicinge ngokungenakuphepheka ngeHercule Poirot kunye ne-Orient Express. Ewe kunjalo, iDanube Express ibhengeza uhlobo lomnqweno wokulangazelela, ikhumbula ixesha lokuhamba okumnandi okwakudlule kangangokuba uninzi lwethu lwazi nje ngeziqwengana.

Bendicinga ukuba uhambo lunokutsala oololiwe abasebenza nzima, kwaye nangona iqela lethu elihamba-hambayo lalisele lithathe utyikityo lweGolden Eagle & apos; s (kunye ne-swanky) iTrans-Siberian Express, uninzi lwayo lwalubonakala lutsaliwe luloliwe uqobo nangaphezulu ngokulula kohambo lwethu lokuhamba ngenqanawa. Ukuhanjiswa ukusuka kwenye indawo ukuya kwenye ngaphandle kokuphinda ubeke kwakhona okanye iingxowa ze-schlep okanye ulawule ngokwenyani naliphi na ulungiselelo konke konke ayisiyonto encinci kwiindawo ezinje ngamaphandle eRomania, apho iziseko zokhenketho zikwicala labarhwebi.

Ngelixa leyure yegolide lehla kwikomkhulu laseTurkey, ndatya iParma ham egutyungelwe yicantaloupe, elandelwa likhowa iWellington. Emva koko kweza ikeyiki yelamuni, nasemva kweso siqhamo kunye netshizi, kunye newayini eninzi kuyo yonke ixesha, kwaye nangexesha lokuphaka ikofu kunye nobumnyama sele bufikile, besingekayishiyi imida yesixeko.

Ndavuka eBulgaria. Ngaphandle kwefestile, inkungu ye-wispy kunye neeNtaba zeBalkan eziluhlaza zithathe indawo ye-Istanbul kunye ne-apos, kwaye isixeko besele sibonakala sikude. Ngobusuku, uloliwe wayecofe-waqhosha emantla ntshona ngapha kwemida yolawulo lwangaphambili, walwa kangangeenkulungwane kodwa namhlanje ulityelwe. Kungekudala emva kwentsimbi ye-9, safika kwindawo yethu yokuqala yokumisa, isixeko esineenqaba zamandulo iVeliko Tarnovo, eyayibekwe senyuka ngokunyuka ukusuka kuMlambo iYantra ojikelezayo kangangokuba isiqhulo sendawo, isikhokelo sethu sathi, izikhombisi zinikezelwa ngokwe ezantsi, hayi ngasekunene nangasekhohlo. Sijonge isikhumbuzo samahashe kubalawuli be-Asen ubukhosi, ababhukuqa ii-Byzantine ngo-1186, emva koko inqaba yaseTsarevets, eyasilelayo ukumisa abantu baseTurkey.

Kwidolophana ekufuphi, eArbanasi, sityelele iCawa yoZalo lukaYesu yamandulo, eyayakhiwe ngendlela engafaniyo neyayakhiwe ngelitye ebonakala ngathi yiholo yeentlanganiso. Ngaphakathi, eyayipeyintwe ngeengcwele ezibomvu, igolide, kunye nohlaza, yasinika lonke uluvo lwe-kaleidoscope engcwele. Umzekeliso owawuthathe uninzi lodonga olunye wabonisa indoda inyukela kwithamsanqa nozuko ngaphambi kokuwa intshabalalo kwaye, kuba eli yayilixesha eliphakathi, isihogo. Isifundo sobukumkani, mhlawumbi.

Kwakungorhatya ngelixesha siphinda sikhwela kwiDanube Express, kwaye kwafika kum ukuba kolu hambo andizukuchitha ixesha elininzi kuloliwe. I & apos; ndicinge iiyure zokufunda ngokuzonwabisa kwikhabhathi yam, kodwa kungekudala ndafunda ukuba kuhambo olufana nolu, ixesha lasebusuku kunye nentsasa kuxa imigama igutyungelwe. Ixesha lasemini yayikukuhambahamba, ezazisoloko zinomdla kwaye, kuba utyelelo lwethu lwangqamana nomsila wokuphela kobushushu, okusoloko kubonakaliswa kukukhangelwa komthunzi. (Umfazi oliNgesi kubantu abamhlophe abamhlophe akwanombono olungileyo.)

Usuku lwesibini kuloliwe yayilusuku lwenqaba. Njani & apos; oku kukhuphiswano lokujonga indawo marathon? Sihle ngo-7: 45 ekuseni kwidolophu yaseRomania esezintabeni iSinaia saya ePele? Inqaba, ndiphinde ndakhwela ngokukhawuleza ngexesha lesidlo sasemini esiya kwisixeko sase-Bra? Ov, ndaya e-Bra? Ov ngaphambi kokuba ndihambe ngebhasi ukuya kwi-Bran Castle kwisidlo sangokuhlwa, ndibuyele kuloliwe emva kwentsimbi ye-11, ngeloxesha ndaye ndalala ebhedini, ndinomdla qeqesha ukundigungqisa ukuze ndilale. Isiqingatha seshumi elinambini sabakhweli, nangona kunjalo, onke amashumi eminyaka abaphezulu kum, bamiswa kwinqwelo mafutha ngenjongo yokuhamba ebusuku. Amagorha.

Iinqaba, ngonyaka we-2019, thaca isigxina. Ziindawo zokuhlala ezingenakusebenza kwaye zingasasebenzi ngenjongo yokuzikhusela, kodwa ukuziyeka zibole kuya kuba lihlazo. Ke ulwamkelo kufuneka luhlawuliswe kunye nomnqweno wokufuna ukwazi. Sityelela ukudibanisa nexesha elidlulileyo, ukumangaliswa ngumbono wokuhlala kwizakhiwo ezinkulu kangaka. Pele? Inqaba yakhiwa ubukhulu becala nge-1870s njengebhotwe lasehlotyeni likaCarol I, umJamani owaba yiRomania kunye ne-apos; s inkosana elawulayo ngo-1866 kwaye, emva kokudityaniswa kweziphathamandla ezibini, inkosi yayo yokuqala ngo-1881, ethembekileyo ibonakala ngathi ilibele kancinci ukumilisela ubukumkani.

Umi kwiiNtaba zeCarpathia, uPele? linani elikhulu lamagumbi ali-170 lamagumbi e-fantasia enziwe nge-nostalgic (nokuba lixesha layo) isitayile sokubambisa esaziwa ngokuba yi-neo-Renaissance. Ukusuka ngaphandle, uPele? ijongeka ngathi yindawo yokuhlala yokuzingela yaseBavaria ngaphezulu, iplastered kwaye iphefumlelwe; ngaphakathi, iapos; Umboniso wokuhombisa, kunye nezinto eziza kwenzeka kwikamva njenge-cinema kunye nenkqubo ye-vacuum esembindini. Ukugqitywa kokugqibela kwongezwa ngo-1914, kanye ngexesha leemfazwe ezimbini zehlabathi kunye neminyaka engama-33 ngaphambi kokuba amaKomanisi athabathe yonke impahla yasebukhosini. Ukukhenketha uPele? & Apos; amagumbi oluntu, ndaziva ndonwabile ngokungaqhelekanga kubakhi bawo, ababengaziqapheli ukuphela kwexesha labo.

I-castle yase-Bran, nayo, iyonwabisa, kodwa ngakumbi ngenxa yezizathu zentengiso kunayo nantoni na enxulumene nembali. Eyakhelwe kwisiqingatha sesibini senkulungwane ye-14 njengenqaba yokuzikhusela kubahlaseli, kubandakanya, ewe, i-Ottoman Turks, i-Bran ngoku yaziwa ngokuba yi-Dracula & apos; s castle, ileyibhile yabakhenkethi-eyomeleleyo eqiniswe zizitali, ezihlangeneyo ezinyaweni zayo Ilali enesidlangalala, ethengisa amazinyo eplastiki kunye nezikipa zengcuka ezimnyama. Ngama-1970, ukunyusa ukhenketho lwamaKomanisi kwakhuthaza inqaba ngokusekelwe ekuxhumaneni noVlad the Impaler, inkosana yaseWallachian yekhulu le-15 elinomdla wokubamba iintshaba zakhe zase-Ottoman. Ukholelwa ngokubanzi ukuba uyinkuthazo ye-Bram Stoker kunye ne-apos ye-vampire yeentsomi, kwaye ke ukutsiba kwenkosana yaseWallachian ukuya kwi-monster engafakwanga njengoko ubuso be-Bran babusenziwa. Kodwa, ngokudanisayo, uStoker akazange afike eTransylvania, kwaye abukho ubungqina obubambekayo obusekelwe kwinani lakhe lokunxanelwa igazi kuVlad the Impaler.

IDracula yinto emnandi, nangona kunjalo, kwaye iGatsha yenye yezo zinto zinomtsalane ezigqitha ubumnandi. Ihleli ngaphezulu kwelitye eliluhlaza, kuyabanjwa kunye nothando kwaye kujongeka ngokwenyani. Ngaphakathi iyabukeka, indawo yokuhlala emhlophe ndingayikhetha kwi-clutter kaPele? nayiphi na imini. Sincinda isinyuko esimxinwa samatye, sangena kwigumbi eliphezulu apho kwakulindwe itafile ende. Iingcango zaseFransi zavulwa kwibhalkoni ejonge inqaba kunye nenkundla yasentabeni: ukumiselwa kwesidlo sangokuhlwa sangasese segolide. I-quartet yomtya edlalwe ngelixa sisitya kwaye sincokola, njengoko amaqabane okhenketho ethanda ukwenza, malunga nokuhamba. Akukho malulwane abhabha aya kurhatyela, kodwa ngamanye amaxesha isidlo kunye nomoya ubanele.

Ngosuku lokugqibela, ndavuka ndaza ndafumanisa ukuba amasimi ombona aseRomania sele ethathe indawo yeThafa Elikhulu laseHungary, ummandla omkhulu wengca ohlala kwimpuma yelizwe. Samisa ukhenketho lokugqibela, olwalubandakanya isampulu yee-schnapps zalapha kunye nokubukela umboniso wehashe wemveli. Emva koko safika eBudapest, apho sehla eDanube Express okokugqibela. Ngobo busuku ndahlala ecaleni komlambo ndisela iAperol spritz phantsi kwelanga ngombala ochanekileyo weAperol spritz. Ibarges zidlulile. Abafazi abancinci bahlala bexoxa elunxwemeni ngemilenze yabo ijinga ngaphaya komphetho.

Njenge-Istanbul, iBudapest sisixeko samandulo. AmaRoma, amaHuns, amaVisigoth, amaMagyars, amaOttoman, iiHapsburgs, amaNazi, namaSoviet — onke ayenegalelo ekuyibumbeni. Iidolophu kunye ne-apos; s spiers zimnyama zii-silhouettes, kwaye yandichukumisa indlela ekuphambeneyo ngayo, eneneni, indlela echukumisa ngayo, ukuba inkolelo yomntu kwisigxina sedolophu kunye nemida kunye neendlela zobomi ziyaqhubeka ngaphandle kobungqina obuqokelelweyo obuchasene noko. Ngaminazana ithile, abahambi banokuthatha uhambo olwenzelwe ukuvusa umdla weli xesha lethu. Ngolunye usuku abantu banokujonga kwiiprojekthi zethu ezintle kwaye bahleke. Ngenye imini-kwaye oku kuqinisekile-siya kuba ngabantu bamandulo.

Uhambo

Iinqaba zohambo lweTransylvania zithatha abahambi bangene kwiGolden Eagle eDanube Express, uloliwe obutofotofo ohlala abantu abangama-50 kuphela. Ukhenketho lobusuku obithandathu lubonisa ezenkcubeko kunye nezokwakha izinto ezazigqwesileyo kubukhosi base-Ottoman bangaphambili. Abakhweli bachitha ubusuku eIstanbul ngaphambi kokukhwela kuloliwe. Emva koko badlula eBulgaria naseRomania behla eBudapest. Ukhenketho lubandakanya ukhenketho lokuhamba ngeenqanawa zaseBulgaria zamaxesha aphakathi, utyelelo eTransylvania's Peleş kunye neenqaba zeBran kwaye, eHungary, umboniso wamahashe wemveli waseMagyar kunye notyelelo lweedilesi. Ukuhamba okulandelayo kushiya i-Istanbul ngoJulayi 1, 2020. goldeneagle luxurious trains.com; iihambo zobusuku ezintandathu ukusuka kwi- $ 5,995 kumntu ngamnye.

Ukufika apho

Iinqwelo moya zaseTurkey zibonelela ngeenqwelomoya ezingamisiyo eziya eIstanbul ukusuka kwiindawo ezinkulu zaseU.S. Ukusuka eBudapest, iAmerican Airlines ibonelela ngokungami ePhiladelphia, ngelixa iLot Polish Airlines ibhabha ingaphumeleli iye eNew York naseChicago.