& usuku olukhulu losuku lokuhamba ngesikhephe, & apos; I-deckhand iyandixelela, itswina esibhakabhakeni se-cornflower njenge Elwha ilungiselela ukubuyela kwisiliphu sayo eAnacortes kwaye ingene kwiiSan Juan Islands. Uhlola iveni ene-kayak ngaphezulu kunye nesakhelo sephepha-mvume esifundeka KWAMANYE IMOTO YEBHAYISEKILE, emva koko inike konke kucace. Abakhweli bahamba besuka kwizithuthi zabo besiya kumgangatho ophezulu, abanye behamba nezinja. Kwikhabhathi ephambili, iipuzzle zejigsaw zoluntu zilindele kwiitafile zokutyela. Abanye abantu bahlala phantsi bazingela isiqwenga esifanayo, kodwa uninzi lwentloko ngaphandle luthathe indawo kunye nelanga. Umlindi weentaka uqeqesha ii-binoculars zakhe kwi-osprey ngelixa indoda enxibe isikipa esithi ENYE IMOTO ENCINCI ixhonywe kwizitulo zamakhwenkwe amawele anemincili ajonge ngaphaya komgaqo wokuvuka kwesikhephe. Unxweme olubuyayo lunamatye kwaye luhlala luhlaza. Yimpepho ebhudla umoya kuLwandle lweSalish, ithwele ivumba lettuce yolwandle.

Indawo yemveli yoNxweme iSalish ebheqa amaphenyane e-bidarka kula manzi eminyaka ngaphambi kokuba umhloli wamaGrike u-Ioánnis Phokás, owaziwa ngabaphathi bakhe baseSpain njengoJuan de Fuca, ahambe ngomkhumbi obizwa ngegama lakhe ngoku, efuna indlela yolwandle edibanisa iPacific neAtlantic. Namhlanje, iinqanawa zamanzi zakudala zithathelwe indawo ziingxilimbela ezixhonyiweyo zaseWashington State Ferry System, ezihlala zisebenza kuphela iziqithi ezine kwezili-172 kwiziqithi zeSan Juan — eyinxalenye yothungelwano lweziqithi ezikhulu ezisuka eOlimpia, eWashington, naseVancouver IBritish Columbia.

Njengoko izixeko zelizwekazi lePasifiki ekuMntla-ntshona zihamba phambili, iindawo zokuhlala ezingaselunxwemeni apha zihlala ziyindawo yokulwa nezolimo, ihippie ngakumbi kunehipster. Isantya esicothayo kunye neendawo ezifileyo zeselfowuni zibhenela kubo bobabini amagcisa athandayo indalo kunye noochwephesha bezobuchwephesha, kunye nakowuphi na umntu othanda ukulinganisa isantya ngamaqhina endaweni yeemayile ngeyure. IiSan Juans zinolona xinzelelo luphambili lwamaxhalanga anempandla kumazantsi angama-48. I-Orcas icula eHaro Strait. Enkosi kwisithunzi semvula esenziwe ziintaba zeOlimpiki, ihlobo liqaqambile kwaye likhaphukhaphu. Ngexesha lobusika obumanzi, isikhephe siba yindawo yezentlalo, ezaliswe zii-joyriders ezikhuphisanayo kwimidlalo ye-mah-jongg yeziqithi eziphakathi. Ukusondela rhoqo emanzini ngamava achazayo alo naluphi na uhambo apha. Ukusondela kuyo kuya kufuna amaphiko kunye nomsila.

Kuhambo olufanelekileyo, qala kwisiQithi i-Whidbey, ngaphaya nje kweedolophu ezisemantla eSeattle. Emva koko uchithe ubusuku obuncinci eSan Juan, Orcas, okanye eLopez, uthabathe uhambo lokuya kwiziqithi ezikufutshane. Gqibezela iLummi, apho unoku-odola khona okona kutya kufanelekileyo.

Ngapha koko

Ayisiyiyo itekhnoloji ngokuyinxalenye yeSan Juans, kodwa le yindawo apho itempo yobomi basezidolophini iqala ukunikezela kwixesha lesiqithi. Isiphelo sendlela sisezantsi mpuma; kumantla esiphelo zii-bluffs zolwandle zeNkohliso yokuDlula kunye nesikhululo somoya somkhosi wasemanzini oboniswe kwi Igosa kunye noMnumzana .

Kude kude nokufika kwesikhephe I-Inn eLangley , apho irestyu kaMat Costello yokutyela isebenza khona njenge-beet meringue, amakhowa afakiweyo, kunye ne-salmon ebanjwe nge-troll, kunye ne-gin elungileyo kunye ne-tonic ekhonza kwisitya se-petri. Umhlaba oswiti, nangona kunjalo-ikhrim e-scryed-pine pastry eyenziwe ngesipinatshi-umgubo moss moss kwaye yaziswa etafileni kwi-glass terrarium -ngowona mbhiyozo wakhe usulungekileyo wePacific Northwest terroir .

Ngomhla wakhe wokungabikho emsebenzini, uCostello undisa e-Double Bluff State Park e-Useless Bay, kwiikhilomitha ezimbalwa ukusuka kwifama encinci apho aphakamisa khona amadada kunye namayeza. Sinyuka umgca womsinga, sibukele abantwana behlanganisa i-fort driftwood fort. Ibetha imidlalo yevidiyo, iiCostello quips. Umpheki, oyinzalelwane yaseOlimpia owafudukela kude nonxweme kwiminyaka elishumi eyadlulayo, udwelisa ezinye izinto ezibalaseleyo kwisiqithi, kubandakanya neegalari ezithengisa imisebenzi emikhulu ngabafundi abaphumelele kwisikolo esikufutshane sePilchuck Glass kunye ITobvern yaseToby , umngxunya wokunkcenkceshela ongatyibiliki ohamba rhoqo ngabalobi abavuna iimbaza zePenn Cove ezazisebenza kwindawo yokutyela yaseCostello. Kwidolophu yaseGreenbank, siyema Ikhefu lePies lePie , apho abapheki beebhaki bavelisa ii-pie ezingama-900 ngeveki, kwisilayidi se-huckleberry. ILangley ngokwayo ineendlela nje ezimbini eziphambili kunye neqonga elilodwa lescreen. Akukho nto engaziwayo, u-Costello uthi.

ISan Juan

Esi siqithi sinabemi abaninzi kwezi ziqithi, kodwa sisengaphantsi kwama-7,000. Eyona nto ikufutshane nendawo yokuxinana kwezithuthi apha iyenzeka xa iimoto zilungele isikhephe ngoLwesihlanu Harbour, nangona kuvulwa kunyaka ophelileyo IMyuziyam yaseSan Juan Islands yoBugcisa , ityhubhu yomoya yanamhlanje enikezelwe kubugcisa baseMantla ntshona, kufuneka itsalele ingqalelo ngakumbi kule dolophu ilele. Imiboniso ezayo izakubonisa ugqirha weglasi uWilliam Morris kunye nomfoti wezilwanyana zasendle uSusan Middleton, omsebenzi wakhe ubandakanya imifanekiso ye-octopus enkulu yase-Pacific, ehlala kula manzi.

Ukuqhuba nge-bucolic Beaverton Valley kukhokelela kwiLime Kiln Point State Park, ngqo kwiHaro Strait esuka eVancouver Island. Yeyona ndawo ifanelekileyo yokubona ii-orcas, kodwa isikhokelo sesikhombisi yeyona ndlela ilungileyo yokubona iminenga emnyama nomhlophe. UJim Maya, umphathi we I-Peregrine , Unobuchule obungaqhelekanga bokwazi ukuba ipod iya kudibana phi ngokulandelayo. Isixhobo sakhe esifihlakeleyo nguJeanne Hyde, onomdla kwi-orcas kwimida yokutyeba. Njengoko izilwanyana zihlola i-hop ukuze zisibukele, uchonga iintandokazi zakhe ngokumakisha kwazo. Kukho iBlackberry! uyakhwaza. Kwaye uCousteau! UMaya, utitshala odla umhlala-phantsi, uchaza ukuba indebe nganye inolwimi lwayo. Izazinzulu bezizama ukufumana olu lwimi iminyaka, utshilo. Ngezizathu zam ndiyathemba ukuba abasoze bazenze, kodwa ndingathanda ukunika yonke into ukuba nengxoxo yeyure.

Ukubulala iminenga

Ngokuchasene nokucinga okuqhelekileyo, esi siqithi simile okwehashe, esingama-57 eemayile zesikwere asiqanjwa ngegama lomnenga. I-Orcas sishunqulelo esenzeka ngokuqondakalayo segama likaHorcasitas, igosa laseMexico elathumela uhambo apha ngo-1791. Idolophu ephambili yase-Eastsound, indawo enezindlu ezimhlophe eziqhotyoshelweyo kunye neevenkile ezilungiswe kakuhle ezijongwe ngamatyholo anuka kamnandi uNootka, ihleli embindini ejonge ngaphaya umjelo wamanzi anzulu. Usuku lwam lokuqala lungqamana neSolstice Parade yonyaka, ebalaselisa i-Orcas's Woodstock Nation vibe: iimvumi zibetha imigqomo eyenziwe ekhaya kunye nabadlali boonopopi badlulisa i-fantoccini enkulu yemizimba yasezulwini kwisangqa somdaniso e intengiso yamafama kwiGreen Village.

I-Orcas ine-streak yayo yobugcisa. Ivenkile yeeVenkile zikaDarvill (360 / 376-2135) , e-Eastsound, kubamba ukufundwa kombhali kunye neesemina zekofu. Kwindlela esecaleni yesitalato, abayili bemizobo uAndrew noEmily Youngren bamise entsha Istudiyo sePrintshop esentshona . Ngaphandle nje kwedolophu, enye yemifanekiso eqingqiweyo ka-Anthony Howe eqingqiweyo studio sakhe , evula kuphela ngokuthanda kwaye kunqabile ngokuqeshwa. Indawo yokuyila kwesi siqithi iyaphambana, utshilo uChristopher Peacock, ongumhlali ixesha elide kunye nomamkeli ngokubanzi Irosario Irizothi kunye ne-Spa , zigcinwe kwindlu yobugcisa nobugcisa kwiikhilomitha ezimbalwa emazantsi. Umdlali wepiyano oqeqeshiweyo wekonsathi, wenza iyure yecocktail kwilungu lombhobho we-aeolian kwigumbi lomculo. Emva koko, kwigumbi lokutyela elibheke eCascade Bay, wakhankanya ukuba umvelisi wefilimu uWarren Miller kunye nomzobi wekhathuni uGary Larson baneendawo e-Orcas. Kodwa abahlali besiqithi bazibekele umva kakhulu ukwamkela umntu odumileyo omileyo emgceni weebhanji ezinamathelayo eBrown Bear Baking (360 / 855-7456) .

I-Peacock ikwalungiselela ukunyuka ukuya kwi-Mount Constitution kwi-Moran State Park ekufuphi okanye uhambo lwe-kayaking kunye nesikhokelo sendalo uJeff Zbornik. Ndijoyina usuku lonke lweZbornik lokujikeleza kweSucia Island, eyinxalenye yenkqubo yelizwe yokupaka elwandle, iikhilomitha ezimbini emantla ngaphesheya koMongameli Channel. IiCascades zibonakala ngaphezulu. Thina ukubheqa iphedi ii-koves ezizimeleyo apho iiherons zihlala khona kwilitye lentlabathi kunye namaza e-bullwhip kelp kumaza aphuma elwandle. UZbnornik, okhe wajonga la mabheyi ngaphezulu kweminyaka engama-30, ubiza le porpoise inomdla emva kwethu. Ndithi nkxu isandla sam ukungcamla amanzi apholileyo olwandle. Buyela elunxwemeni kwi Isitovu somthi sikaHogstone Ndi-odola isitya seembatyisi kwiJudd Cove ekufuphi kwaye ndonwabele incasa efanayo yobumdaka.

Lopez

Iprofayile ephantsi yeLopez ifanele abanini bepropathi ngemicimbi yabucala, njengoMicrosoft uPaul Allen, ohlala kuyo yonke iihektare ezingama-387 iSperry Peninsula. Imizila esezilalini yesiqithi sikwabhenela kwiibhayisikile, abanokuthatha iindawo eziqeshisayo ezigcinwe kufutshane nesikhululo seenqanawa kwisikhululo esiqhutywa Imijikelo yelali , Elinye lamashishini ambalwa esiqithi. I-Lopez ye-topography elula ilungele ukulima; iigusha neenkomo zisitya ecaleni kwendlela, kwaye uninzi lweegadi kunye neziza zegadi zibonelela iSan Juans ngemveliso entsha.

Ehlotyeni, iihektare ezintandathu Isiqithi seLopez Island Imikhosi yeShakespeare ibamba igadi yayo. Ngombulelo kwimo yezulu ekhoyo eyaziwa ngokuba yiNorth Pacific Oscillation, uBrent Charnley, umenzi wewayini onentshebe oza apha emva kokufunda ngezolimo kwiDyunivesithi yaseCalifornia, eDavis, uyakwazi ukukhulisa iidiliya ezingaqhelekanga kwiPacific Northwest. Iibhotile zakhe azifane zibonwe ngaphaya kukaSeattle, kuba abahlali bathanda ukumthenga, kodwa uyayandisa imveliso yakhe. Senza yonke into eyi-wonky kunye necala apha, uyachaza.

Lummi

Indawo yam yokugqibela, isiqithi esizizikwekhilomitha ezili-9 ukunqumla iRosario Strait esuka eOrcas, asiyiyo enye yeeSan Juans ngokusemthethweni, kodwa isathathelwa ingqalelo njengenxalenye yamachwebakazi amakhulu oLwandle iSalish. Kufikelelwe ngoGcino lweLummi lweLizwe, kumhlaba okumantla weBellingham, ngokuwela ngokufutshane kwi Yintoni oyiNtloko . Ngeli xesha, ipleyiti yelayisensi yeloli ephambi kwam ifundeka NGAMANYE IMOTO YAM YINQWELO YOKUQHUBA.

Indlela eya elwandle eFern Point ineesalmonberries ezivuthiweyo. Amagqabi ahlala kwindawo yaseDouglas njengemibhobho yamaplanga. I-otter yaselwandle inyathela ngokujikeleza amachibi amaza e-Legoe Bay, apho abalobi be-Lummi's re-net-net beqhele ukuya kumaphenyane abo phambi kwexesha le-sockeye. Kunomoya kakhulu ukuphuma emanzini, endaweni yoko isikhokelo sam, uKristi Kucera, undithatha ndiyokuzingela ukutya kelp. Sithatha indlela yethu edlulileyo yegranite egutyungelwe nge-feathery wakame, ukuqokelela itawuli enenkani yaseTurkey kunye nekhonkco lesinyi elihlanjwe kwisanti emnyama.

Igcisa lasekhaya UAnn Morris ikwangumbhali. Umboniso wakhe wangoku, i-Crossings, kwindawo yakhe yokujonga kwigadi eqingqiweyo ejonge iRosario Strait, inezikhephe ezenziwe ngephenyane ezibuthathaka ezenziwe ngezinto ezifunyenweyo-ithambo, iintsiba, ukhula lwaselwandle, iingcambu-eziqokelelwe eLummi. Uninzi lwemifanekiso yakhe eqingqiweyo ihleli egadini ekufutshane IWillows Inn . Isakhiwo seGcisa sele sineminyaka emininzi sinevenkile yokutyela, kodwa ukufika ngo-2011 komthonyama wase-Olimpiki uBlaine Wetzel, igqala laseNoma elathiywa igama lokuba nguJames Beard Rising Star Chef kunyaka ophelileyo, sayibeka kwimephu yokutyela. Indoda ecekethekileyo enezikrelemnqa ezivuthayo ezingalweni zayo, uWetzel undijikeleza ngeLoganita Farm, umthombo wezona mveliso zininzi kunye neentyatyambo ezityiwayo kwimenyu yakhe. Ndifuna ukonwaba ngosuku lwam lokuphumla, utshilo, ndichola ii-nasturtiums. Ndifungile ukuba ndenziwe ngeendawo ezintathu zokutyela emva kokutya kwenye apho abalungiseleli bebebeza ngexesha lenkonzo yesidlo sangokuhlwa.

Igumbi lakhe lokutyela alithandeki kwaphela. Abalindi abanxibe ezimnyama banxibe iifaskoti bajikeleza ngeetreyi zokutya okulula-iirad clams, i-steelhead-roe crêpes- ngexesha le-cocktail. I-Owl Spotted, ene-Spy Hop gin yalapha ekhaya, ioyile ye-Douglas-fir, kunye ne-nettle bitters, ngumahluko okrelekrele kwi-gin fizz. Itakane eligcadiweyo Ukukhuphela yibhreyikhi ngokwaneleyo yokugawula imithi. Kodwa yimbaza yaseWetzel iSamish Bay, isetyenziselwe iingqalutye ezishushu eziselunxwemeni kwibhokisi yomsedare ebopha umsi womthi xa iqhekeziwe, ebamba ubume bezi ziqithi ngokuluma kube kanye.