Ngaphezulu kweminyaka emibini edlulileyo, ndaye ndafudukela kwisiXeko saseMexico ndingaboni ngakumbi, ndiyithatha kakuhle into yokuba isigebenga sasezidolophini singafumana indawo yomzimba omnye phakathi kwezigidi ezingama-21 esele zibiza indawo yekhaya. Ndize, njengabaphambukeli abaninzi phambi kwam, ndinemibono engacacanga malunga nokutya kwayo okunamandla kunye nemiboniso yobugcisa; ubuhle bayo obugwenxa kunye nokuphola okungenamsebenzi; ubutyebi bayo bobukoloniyali kunye nobume bale mihla yoyilo. Ndilindele ukufumana iziphithiphithi ezinamandla kwaye ngamanye amaxesha ndikrwada umsi. Kodwa ndavuselelwa ziipaki ezinobabalo kunye nemozulu ebabazekayo, ngentsasa yasekwindla ehlwahlwazayo kunye nemva kwemini enjengohlobo lwentwasahlobo, yimvula nesichotho kunye neendudumo ezathi zanikezela, kanye ngexesha elifanelekileyo, ukuya kutshona kwelanga okwenzeka marigold. IsiXeko saseMexico, kubonakala ngathi, siyakwazi ukuguqula ubuso obahlukileyo kumntu ngamnye kubo.
Kungenxa yokuba, kwiinkulungwane ezintlanu ezidlulileyo, iSixeko saseMexico siye sayinkosi yenguqu. Esi sixeko sikhulu sakuMntla Melika sisinde kubhukunyiso lwamakoloniyali, izikhukula ezithathe iminyaka emininzi, imfazwe yenkululeko, uguquko olunamagazi, kwaye, ngo-1985, inyikima eyabulala abantu abangaphezu kwama-9,000 yaza yatshabalalisa. uninzi lwembali engumbindi weCuauhtémoc. Emva kweminyaka engamashumi amathathu anesibini ukuza kuthi ga kumhla, ngo-2017, enye inyikima yasigungqisa isixeko, yadiliza izakhiwo ezingaphezu kwama-40 yonakalisa nezinye ezininzi. Kwiiveki nje ezimbalwa, isixeko sasibuye sabuya kuloo nto, nayo. I-Chilangos, njengoko abahlali besaziwa njalo, bayaqhubeka nokujongana nolawulo olungenalusini, iziseko zophuculo, kunye namaqondo okhuseleko atshintshayo. Ngokunikwa ukhetho, uninzi luya kuthi ngokukhawuleza lubuyele kwiilali ezishiye isizukulwana okanye ezintathu ngaphambili. Kodwa uninzi ngakumbi-mna ndibandakanyile-alunakuhlala naphi na.
Akukho luhambo lunye olwaneleyo ukuvula imimangaliso emininzi yesixeko. Kwindwendwe yokuqala, ukunamathela kwiindawo ezinamagqabi nakwiindawo ezikufutshane ne-Delegación Cuauhtémoc inikezela ngesingeniso esifanelekileyo: i-microcosm elawulekayo, ephathekayo yesixeko sasendle, esipheleleyo. Ukusuka kubungangamsha becockey ye-Centro Histórico ukuya kwiigalari eziziingqondi zeSanta María la Ribera kunye neevenkile ezintle zaseCondesa, ezi zizithili ezisibhozo lonke undwendwe ekufuneka lubazi.
Kwakusasa ngeCawa, ndemka kwikhaya lam elisecaleni leZócalo, indawo ebukekayo eseMbindini weSixeko saseMexico, ndaya eMercado San Juan. Kwakungekuko ukuhamba okude ngokukodwa, kodwa, njengeendlela ezininzi ezidlula kwiCentro Histórico, yayiquka ukudlula okuninzi, izipho ezininzi, kunye nekamva elinokubakho. Apha uya kufumana amabhotwe obukoloniyali amahle, iicawa zeBaroque eziphosakeleyo, imizobo eyenziwe nguDiego Rivera ePalacio Nacional kunye noNobhala wekomkhulu lezeMfundo yoLuntu, kunye namabhodlo amahle oSodolophu waseTemplo, i-axis yoBukhosi bama-Aztec yenkolo kunye nezopolitiko.
Ndingena kumnyango ovulekileyo weMercado San Juan, ndadlula kubathengisi abathengisa ii-rambutan kunye neemango, iibhokisi zeplastiki ze-microgreens, kunye neefam ezinkulu ezivela eBaja. Kodwa khange ndize kuthenga apha (kuba ndizokuya eMercado la Merced, eyona ndawo inkulu, i-crazier, intengiso yehoseyile entle yam kwicala leCentro). Endaweni yoko bendize kutya UDon Vergas Itafile yentengiso enezihlalo ezisibhozo, kulo nyaka uphelileyo, ibikukufumana ezinye zezona ntlanzi zintle eMexico City.
U-Chef Luis Valle, ovela kumantla asentshona ye-Sinaloa, wayevule ivenkile kwiyure nje enye ngaphambili, kodwa kwasekugcwele umgca ogcweleyo, ecula kunye nomculo we-banda owawudlala kwisandisi-lizwi esasihleli ngqo ekhitshini elincinci. Zingaphi i-crost tostadas? UValle wakhwaza ngenxa yomculo. Izandla zidubule phezulu: ii-odolo ezili-15.
Ndityibilike emva kwebhari ukunceda ukucoca ii-limes ezimbalwa kunye nokuxhoma kunye noValle, owenza inkampani enkulu, nokuba uxakeke kangakanani. Ndibuzile uzopheka abantu abangaphi namhlanje. Malunga ne-400, utshilo. Ndibuze ukuba ujongane njani. Andenzi njalo! wahleka, wabuya wabuyela esihlweleni, ekhwaza: Zingaphi ii-scallops?
Nokuba kwiminyaka elishumi eyadlulayo, wawuza kubanzima ukufumana ulonwabo olunje malunga nendawo yokutyela kule nxalenye yedolophu. Kodwa kunyaka ophelileyo okanye njalo, amaqela e-pop-up aqale ukuvela eluphahleni, kumagumbi angaphantsi, nakwii-cantinas ezibalekayo ezinje ngembonakalo entle Umsebenzi , ehonjiswe ngeebhokisi zezithunzi ezinothuli zeempahla zabafundi. Iigalari zobugcisa ezi-Edgy ziye zavela kwizakhiwo zangaphambili zeofisi. IBosphorus , iseyindawo ephezulu edolophini ye-mezcal phantse iminyaka eli-10 emva kokuba ivuliwe, itsala izihlwele ngeempelaveki, ngelixa indawo yokutyela engenagama kufutshane nayo ikhonza ukutya okumangalisayo kwe-Oaxacan ngokukhanyisa ikhandlela.
Kodwa ngaphandle kwento yokuba isizukulwana esitsha, esincinci ngoku sinomdla kwiCentro, iseyindawo eyeyomntu wonke. Amatshantliziyo enza uqhanqalazo rhoqo eZócalo. Abahlali abavela esixekweni beza kuthenga ezivenkileni ezithengisa yonke into ukusuka kwiziqholo ukuya kwizibane ezikhanyayo kunye namakhandlela amakhulu enziwe ngesandla ahonjiswe ngeentyatyambo ze-lacy wax. Abasebenzi bakarhulumente bayayeka ukuhlala kwi-cantinas ye-century ubudala bebhiya yasemva kwemini (zama Iopera ngenxa yobutyebi behlabathi elidala, okanye Igumbi laseSpain Uluhlu lwee-tequila eziphambili zedolophu). Nokuba iMercado San Juan ebiza kakhulu, apho uLuis Valle axhoma ukutya kwakhe kwaselwandle, unetheko elimnandi ngempelaveki. Akukho ndawo kwesi sixeko sikhulu, esinemigangatho yedemokhrasi ngakumbi okanye sihle ngakumbi.
Iimpawu ezivela kwisixeko saseMexico saseCENTRO Ukusuka ekhohlo: IScallop ceviche eDon Vergas, eMercado San Juan; isakhiwo kwiCentro Histórico, apho abapheki abancinci kunye nabadlali bezinto ezincinci bezisa amandla amatsha kwindawo yakudala yaseMexico. | Ityala: Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock