Kwangokuhlwa kwangoko: ixesha elifanelekileyo lokuhambahamba ngePalermo's Idolophu endala . I-palazzi yenkulungwane ye-18 yayijikeleze izitrato, iifestile zazo zenziwe zii-ruffs kunye neefriji zamatye eBaroque. Abanye babo babekwimeko yokuphelelwa ngamandla, abanye bephila ngengxolo yabasebenzi bebuyisela izinto zabo ezintle ebomini. Ukusuka kwiipavumente ezigqunywe ngothuli, iicawa zikhulele kwindawo eninzi yokuhombisa. Umlingane wam, uMatthew, sangena ngaphakathi e-Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Cita kwaye sahlangatyezwa sisiphithiphithi saseRococo stuccowork esenziwe nguGiacomo Serpotta - umzobi wasePalermitani owaguqula eli khaya laba yindawo yemidlalo yeqonga yokubalisa ngamabali, enika imifanekiso eqingqiweyo yesidima kunye izigcawu ezivela kwi-Passion ngeplastikhi njenge-crisp kunye nomhlophe njenge-icing yasebukhosini. Iyonke IPalermo , enyanisweni, kwabonakala ngathi kumdlalo weqonga, ifestile yevenkile nganye okanye istudiyo segcisa elinika umfanekiso-ngqondweni womdlalo weqonga: umthungi kwiworkshop yakhe egxalathelana nemandolin; ivenkile ethengisa izinto ezityiwayo inemfumba yeziqhamo zemarzipan; Ivenkile eneemodeli zikaPadre Pio, oyintandokazi kwihlelo lase-Itali elisemazantsi elichongwa zii-mittens kunye ne-brown cassock. Kwakusekuqaleni kukaSeptemba, iveki ethandwayo yokutshata ePalermo, kwaye iindwendwe kuzo zonke izinto ezintle zazilenga ngaphandle kweecawa zaseBaroque, behlisa ikofu kwimivalo ekufuphi ngaphambi kwemikhosi yabo eyahlukeneyo. (Akukho mntu uxhomeke macala onke ngendlela enesitayile, kuvela, njengondwendwe lomtshato waseSicilian.) Njengoko ukukhanya kwaqala ukuphela, kwabonakala ngathi licebo elilungileyo ukuyeka i-negroni yangaphambi kwesidlo sangokuhlwa. Sangena kwi-archway kwisitrato esimxinwa, esimnyama ukufumana uCaffè Internazionale: intendelezo encinci, enomdiliya egcwele iitafile ezazisasazekile, apho sadibana nombuliso onobuhlobo ovela kubanini, umculi wase-Italiya uStefania Galegati kunye nomyeni wakhe wase-Afrika-waseMelika , UDarrell Uyakhanya. Kananjalo nokusebenzela i-cocktail esemagqabini, esi sibini sibamba iikonsathi kunye noomasifundisane bobugcisa kuthotho lwamajelo amagumbi angasemva. Indawo ibizolile ngasebusuku ebesityelele, ke sincokole noGalegati noShines ngelixa abantwana babo betyhutyha malunga negceke ekukhanyeni kwegolide ngokuhlwa. Ukusuka ekhohlo: i-Via Orologio kaPalermo, eyinxalenye yecentro storico yabahambi ngeenyawo kutshanje; iitafile zokutyela ezingqonge izitrato zaseTrapani. USimon Watson Emva kwexesha, siziva silambile (kunzima ukungaziva ulambile ePalermo), sema emngxunyeni eludongeni egama linguKe Palle, nge-Via Maqueda, apho sa-odola i-arancini ubungakanani beebhola zetenisi, ezishushu nezishushu ngaphandle , ngaphakathi kwabo bawela kwisimuncu esimnandi seqanda, irayisi kunye netshizi. Sizityile-kunye nezinye iphaneli, ukungcamla emhlabeni izikwere zegolide ze-chickpea batter-ehleli ebhentshini, ejonge iqela lamakhwenkwe adlala umdlalo webhola ekhatywayo kwisikwere, iipali zabo ngumthombo kunye neseti yamasango ecawa. Akuzange kube njalo ePalermo. Into yokuba sikwazile ukuhambahamba embindini wedolophu bubungqina botshintsho olwandle, imvuselelo eqhutywa luloyiso oluzinzileyo kodwa olunzima ngokuchasene nolwaphulo-mthetho oluhleliweyo kunye nomhlaba ohlaziyiweyo wedolophu. Yintoni, ishumi leminyaka okanye eyadlulayo, ebinokuba luhambo lokunyusa iinwele kuthotho lweendlela ezimxinwa, ezinemingxunya phakathi kwezithuthi ezigqumayo kunye nomsi namhlanje yindawo emnandi, yokuhamba ngeenyawo, enezitrato ezininzi eziphambili ngoku ezinamakhaya okubuyisela izakhiwo ezindala kunye nomtsha omtsha. iivenkile zokutyela. Izitrato ezingathandekiyo yayiluphawu nje olunye lokungahoywa kwikomkhulu laseSicilian, iziko lazo lashiywa lingenamntu ngamashumi eminyaka endlala, ukungasebenzi koorhulumente bengingqi, nolwaphulo-mthetho olulungelelanisiweyo- umsebenzi weLa Cosa Nostra, okanye iMicia mafia. UMary Taylor Simeti, waseMelika owafika eSicily ngeminyaka yoo-1960 wahlala, wabhala Kwisiqithi sePersephone: iSicilian Ijenali ekuphakameni kweengxaki zikaPalermo kwiminyaka yee-1980. Kuyo, umbhali waveza iziko ledolophu elihlaselwe kukuwa kwezakhiwo zakudala, apho iTeatro Massimo, indlu yayo entle yeopera, yayilele ivaliwe kwaye ithe cwaka kwaye apho, ngaphezulu kwako konke, uluntu laluqalekisiwe ngokubulawa rhoqo kwemafiya. Elona xesha lidumileyo leli xesha lobundlobongela yayikukugwetywa koomantyi uPaolo Borsellino kunye noGiovanni Falcone, bobabini ababulawa ngo-1992 ngelixa bephanda iLa Cosa Nostra. Uninzi lwabanye oomantyi babulawa nabo- kongeza kuluhlu lwama-527 amsulwa, okanye angengawo ama-mafioso, iiSicilians zabulawa okoko kwabulawa okokuqala ngo-1871, uninzi lwabantu ababhubhileyo lwenzeka emva kweminyaka yoo-1970 ukuya koo-1990. Ukulwa ne-mafia bekude kwaye kunzima - kwaye akukapheli. Usodolophu wangoku wasePalermo, uLeoluca Orlando, owayekwangusihlalo wesixeko ekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1980 kwaye kwakhona kwiminyaka engama-90, ebengomnye wabachasi beLa Cosa Nostra. Ngexesha lokuma kwakhe e-ofisini, eqale ngo-2012, ebejolise ekutshintsheni umfanekiso wesixeko ukusuka kwindawo yolwaphulo-mthetho olucwangcisiweyo lube yindawo ejonge ngaphandle eyamkela abaphambukeli kunye nabakhenkethi, behlonipha indawo yesi siqithi njengesihlanganiso phakathi kweenkcubeko kunye namazwekazi. Ukuhamba ngenyawo kwimithambo ephambili bekuyinxalenye yemishini ye-Orlando kule minyaka idlulileyo; uyavuya, naye, ukuba umatshi wokugqibela we-Gay Pride kaPalermo kwathiwa watsala isihlwele sama-200,000. Ndadibana naye kwiholo ledolophu ePiazza Pretorio, kwigumbi lakhe leofisi ngobukhazikhazi bendlu yakhe eneerandi zeglasi zeMurano, izinto zakudala, kunye neesofa ezinzulu. Undixelele ukuba kwinkulungwane yama-20, iPalermo yayilikomkhulu le-mafia. Yayisaziwa kwihlabathi liphela njengekomkhulu lemafia. Amagama mafia kwaye IPalermo ziphantse zatshintshana. Kwakukho abantu kwesi sihlalo ababengabahlobo babaphathi be-mafia. Ngapha koko, kwakukho usodolophu omnye owayengenguye nje umhlobo wabaphathi be-mafia- yena wayenjalo umphathi we-mafia. Ukusuka ekhohlo: Iindwendwe eTeatro Massimo, ikhaya elibuyiselweyo lomculo wesixeko sasePalermo; Izitalato zaseTrapani. USimon Watson Ngoku, nangona kunjalo - ikota yenkulungwane emva kokubulawa kukaBorsellino kunye noFalcone - uPalermo wabizwa ngokuba yi-capital yase-Itali yeNkcubeko ye-2018, ukuguqulwa kwembali yayo emnyama kunye nokufezekisa apho i-Orlando inebhongo kakhulu. Ukubhideka kwesi sixeko ngesihloko kugxininise ukunxibelelana kwayo nehlabathi lase-Afrika kunye nelama-Arab - ubudlelwane obusembindini wesazisi sikaPalermo ukusukela ubuncinci kwinkulungwane ye-12, xa kwakhiwa iicawa zayo ezizukileyo zaseArabhu naseNorman. (Eyona nto iphawuleka kakhulu apha yicawa yecawa yecawa engaphandle nje kwePalermo kwidolophu yaseMonreale, embindini wayo kungumngxuma wegolide wamabali ebhayibhile athathwe kwiimpawu zeByzantine.) Ngapha koko, unyaka we-2018 unokungqina into enamanzi esixeko: ukusukela ngeyeSilimela ukuya kweyeNkanga izakubamba iManifesta 12, enye yeminyhadala ebaluleke kakhulu yaseYurophu eyenzeka kanye ngonyaka, ushicilelo ngalunye lwayo lwenzeka kwesinye isixeko. Imiboniso kunye nokufakelwa kucwangcisiwe kwezinye zeendawo eziphambili zePalermo, kubandakanya necawa eyonakaliswe yimfazwe yenkulungwane ye-17, indawo yemidlalo yeqonga engasasetyenziswayo, kunye neegadi ezizukileyo zeso sixeko, apho mna noMatthew sahamba ngenye imva kwemini phakathi kwamadlelo ebergamot, iorenji, ilamuni, kunye nesitron; ngekhulu le-19 izindlu zokugcina izityalo ezizaliswe yicacti enkulu; kunye nemithi emikhulu edlulileyo eneengcambu zasemoyeni. Kukho ukuvuleka okubalulekileyo esixekweni kulo nyaka: iPalazzo Butera, umzekelo, isakhiwo esihle senkulungwane ye-18 kwisithili saseKalsa esathengwa ngo-2015 sisinhanha saseNtaliyane uMassimo Valsecchi kunye nenkosikazi yakhe, uFrancesca. Iya kuvulwa njengemyuziyam yokuqokelela kwabo ubugcisa, equlathe imisebenzi ngamagama ukusuka ku-Annibale Carracci ukuya kuGerhard Richter. UFrancesco Pantaleone, ongumnini weegalari ezimbalwa zedolophu, usebenza neValsecchis ukwenza ufakelo olumangalisayo ukuze luhambelane neManifesta 12: igcisa laseNorway uPer Barclay uza kuzikhukula izitali zebhotwe ngoyile omncinci weoyile. , Yenza umphezulu obonakala njengesipili oya kuthi ubonakalise ungcelele lweekholamu kunye neefeni ezigqume ukukhanya kwayo okumnyama. (I-Pantaleone kunye neBarclay benze iprojekthi efanayo kwixa elidlulileyo, bekwenze ngobunono ukumilisela i-Palermitan ngomaleko wobisi, ukuze iSerpotta stuccowork yayo ebonakala ngathi iphuma echibini elithe cwaka.) Ukusuka ekhohlo: IBusiate igcwele iitapile eziqhotsiweyo ISaragó; umboniso wegcisa lakwa-Israeli uShay Frisch kwigalari yeZAC, kwikota yenkcubeko yasePalermo iZisa; Iposi esembindini yePalermo. USimon Watson Eli hlobo liza kubona ukuvulwa ngokupheleleyo kwemyuziyam ebalaseleyo yesixeko, eyaziwa ngokuba yi-Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonio Salinas. Izindlu kwenye ipalazzo ezukileyo, enegalari ezivulekileyo kwiiyadi ezipholileyo, yayifikeleleka kuphela xa sityelele. Imyuziyam izakubonisa, phakathi kwezinye izinto, imifanekiso eqingqiweyo evela kwitempile enkulu yamaGrike yaseSelinunte, kunxweme olusemazantsi eSicily. Babandakanya ngokucacileyo ngokucacileyo inkulungwane yesihlanu-B.C. iziqwengana, iziqwenga zepeyinti yazo yantlandlolo zisabambelele kubo, ezibonisa imifanekiso eqingqiweyo evela kwiintsomi zamandulo, ezinje ngoActaeon oqwengulwa zizinja zakhe zokuzingela. Ukuzama ukuqonda ngcono impembelelo yeLa Cosa Nostra kubahlali basePalermo, mna noMatthew saye sathatha uhambo lokuya esixekweni kunye neqela elibizwa ngokuba yiPalermo NoMafia. Yayikhokelwa ngumzabalazo ogama lingu-Edoardo Zaffuto, owathi, ngo-2004, wayengomnye weqela labahlobo ababenomsindo kwiminyaka yabo yama-20 abathi baqala intshukumo eyayisilwa nengcambu ngentambo, Intlawulo yokhuselo ethathwe kumashishini endawo yimafia. Emva phayaa, wathi, i-mafia yayifana ne-parasite. Babefuna imali kwaye beyifumana kuyo yonke idolophu. Iya kuhlala ihleli incinci, ifikeleleka ngexabiso- umbono wokuba wonke umntu uza kugcina ehlawula, enika uhlobo olusemthethweni kulwenzo. Ekuqaleni, yena nabahlobo bakhe babedlala isenzo sabanqolobi-bexhoma iiposta ezijikeleze isixeko esasibhengeza, Abantu bonke abahlawula ngentambo ngabantu abangenasidima. Ixesha elingaphezulu baziguqula baba ngumbutho wabathengi. Ngoku umbutho wabo, iAddizopizzo (ndlela ntle-ntle) unendawo zokutyela ezisayiniweyo eziyi-1 000, iivenkile kunye namanye amashishini angavumiyo ukugoba abaphuli-mthetho. (Isitikha seorenji esefestileni nesilogeni Ndibhatala abo bangahlawuliyo, okanye ndibhatala abo bangahlawuliyo, ndichonga la maziko.) Ukusuka ekhohlo: UFrancesco Colicchia, umnini waseColicchia, ivenkile eswiti eTrapani; ufakelo lobugcisa kwikota yenkcubeko yeZisa yasePalermo; UCarlo Bosco noMaria Giaramidaro, abanini bevenkile yokutyela eSaragó, eTrapani. USimon Watson Ukhenketho lukaZaffuto luqale ngaphandle kweTeatro Massimo entle-ngoku eli likhaya lenkampani ye-opera echumayo. Inkqubo ibandakanye ukubekwa kwinqanaba leklasi yase-Italiya URigoletto ngumdlali weqonga wase-Italiya-waseMelika kunye nomlawuli uJohn Turturro, kunye nereertoire enomdla njengeBartók's Inqaba yeBluebeard kunye neSchoenberg eyenziwa rhoqo Isandla seKamva. Ukujonga phezulu kwisakhiwo esikhulu sangaphandle seNeoclassical, kwakunzima ukucinga ukuba ukusukela ngo-1974 ukuya ku-1997 le theatre yema ingenanto, ekucingelwa ukuba yayisenziwa phantsi kohlaziyo, kodwa eneneni lixhoba lesifo sokuqina kwamathambo esi sixeko. Kodwa i-mafia, uZaffuto walumkisa, ayizukupheliswa. Simlandele sihamba kwindlela emxinwa phakathi kwezakhiwo ezidilikayo ezakha iMercato del Capo, mna noMatthew sijonga nzima ricotta salata, ii-chiles ezincinci ezinoburhalarhume ezibiziweyo amazinyo eswekile, kwaye ityiwa i-Pantelleria capers yokugoduka nayo. Njengoko singena kwindawo efanelekileyo yentengiso, uZaffuto wakhomba umnini wevenkile - itafile yakhe inentabalala ye-basil eluhlaza, i-Romanesca cauliflower, kwaye ubude obude, obuluhlaza cucuzze, okanye i-zucchini yase-Italiyane - owayencanyathisele uphawu lwekhadibhodi ekrwada kwitafile yakhe ebhengeza ukubulawa, kwiveki ephelileyo, yomntakwabo, ixhoba lomzabalazo oqhubekayo phakathi kwabaphuli mthetho. Ukhenketho luphelile, njengoko konke ukuhamba kweSicilian kufanele, ngesithembiso sokutya okumnandi-ngeli xesha e-Antica Focacceria San Francesco, apho kwakulula ukulibala imbali kaSicily ekhathazekileyo phakathi kwamacwecwe e-caponata ebukhali enencasa eyenziwe nge-eggplant, itumato, kunye nokuninzi iseleri. Kubathandi benyama, babekhona pani ca'meusa, okanye ii-rolls ezifakwe i-veal spleen ethosiweyo kwaye ifafazwe nge-ricotta. Ukusuka ekhohlo: Amaphenyane kwizibuko laseTrapani; Ukuthenga iimveliso zasekhaya eMercato del Capo yasePalermo. USimon Watson Ukuzalwa ngokutsha kwenkcubeko okwenziwe nguPalermo kule minyaka idlulileyo kuye kwaqala ukusasazeka kwintshona yaseSicily, ngokwesiko eyona ndawo inamahlathi amabi kakhulu, ihlwempuzekileyo, kwaye ilawulwa kakhulu yi-mafia yesiqithi - kwaye, ngenxa yoko, incinci indawo yabakhenkethi. Kodwa namhlanje, phakathi kobunzima obungenakuphikwa obubonisa ubomi kumazantsi e-Italiya kwixesha elide lengxaki yamatyala aseYurophu, kukho imiqondiso yokuvuselela apha, nayo. Saqala ukhenketho lommandla ngokuqhuba saya kwiBelice Valley, apho, ngo-1968, ilali yaseGibellina yatshatyalaliswa yinyikima. Emva koko yakhiwa kwakhona njengoGibellina Nuova kwisiza esitsha, ngoncedo lwamagcisa abaziwayo kunye nabayili bezakhiwo. Elinye igcisa, u-Umbrian Alberto Burri, wajonga kumabhodlo edolophu yakudala, efuna ukuyiguqula ibe yiCretto di Burri, isiqwenga somhlaba. Ngeminyaka yo-1980 inkxaso-mali yale projekthi yaphela, kwaye umsebenzi walala ungagqitywanga de kwaba ngowama-2015, xa, ukukhumbula ikhulu leminyaka likaBurri, umbono wakhe wale ndawo wagqitywa ekugqibeleni. ICretto di Burri, umsebenzi osandula ukugqitywa wobugcisa bomhlaba eGibellina, kwintshona yePalermo, eyakhelwe ukukhumbula ilali eyatshatyalaliswa yinyikima ngo-1968. USimon Watson Umbono kaBurri yayikukuvala amabhodlo ezakhiwo zaseGibellina kwiibhloko zekhonkrithi eyomeleleyo, engwevu, eshiya iindlela kunye nemikhondo ecacileyo, ukuze indawo iphela ibe yinyambalala. Ukuyibona ikude, njengoko sasisiya kwiindlela ezinqumla emasimini nasezidiliyeni, yayifana nerhomboid itshefu egqunywe phezu kwenduli. Ukuhamba ngaphakathi, sazilahleka ngokukhawuleza phakathi kweendlela zayo ezinamajikojiko Yonke into yayithule kodwa i thwunk-thwunk yomoya osondeleyo womoya. Iithenda zezityalo ezityaliweyo zanyanzelisa indlela yazo ukuba ikhonkrithi, isikhumbuzo sokuba ngenye imini indalo iyakubuyisa le ntshabalalo yanamhlanje, ilitye lesikhumbuzo elimangalisayo kwidolophu elahlekileyo. Ukuphonononga iSicily kude kakhulu entshona, sahlala kwi UBaglio Sorìa , ihotele enamagumbi ali-11 - okanye mhlawumbi ngokuchanekileyo indawo yokutyela enamagumbi - yeyomlimi wewayini wendawo. Isakhiwo siguqulwe kwinkulungwane ye-17 umqadi Indlu yasefama ebiyelwe ngodonga, apho abanini mhlaba babehlala khona kunye nabakhonzi babo, amagumbi ayo abekwe ejikeleze intendelezo esembindini. Ujikelezwe ngamasango emithi yemibhaka kunye nepistachio, iBaglio Sorìa yindawo yokubalekela emnandi, enamagumbi anefenitshala, ichibi elinoxolo kunye nebha yasentendelezweni. Sisitya kwithambeka, sisitya izitya zalapha ekhaya ezicokiswe ukufezekiswa. I-carpaccio ye-shrimp ene-melied melon kunye ne-caviar ye-eggplant, elandelwa yi-linguine kunye nee-urchins zaselwandle ezivunwe ngaloo ntsasa, yayikhunjulwa ngokukodwa-ngakumbi ngokuhamba kunye ne-minerally, phantse iwayini emhlophe enetyuwa evela kwizidiliya zehotele kwisiqithi esikufutshane saseFavignana. Ukusuka ekhohlo: iPorta Felice, elinye lamasango esixeko sokuqala sasePalermo; fagottini emnyama eneembaza, i-calamari, kunye ne-tomato-saffron sauce e-Osteria dei Vespri, ePalermo. USimon Watson Ukusuka eBaglio, sithathe iihambo ezininzi ezimnandi: kwidolophu yaseMazara del Vallo, umzekelo, ikhaya kolunye lwezona zikhulu zokuloba ezinkulu zase-Italiya, ezineendawo zokutyela ezininzi zentlanzi ezingqonge ulwandle. Iicawa zedolophu zakhiwe kwi-tufa efudumeleyo yegolide, iipaki zayo ezincinci zinamthi emithi yesundu, kwaye isithili sayo saseKasbah sine-warren yeendlela ezibonisa umqondiso wedolophu eyasekwa apha ngama-Arabhu ngenkulungwane yesithoba. IMazara del Vallo yenye yeedolophu ezintle eziselunxwemeni ezikule ndawo yesiqithi; kukho iMarsala, ikhaya lewayini edumileyo. Kwaye kukho iTrapani, idolophu evuyayo, eleleyo eyakhiwe kumhlaba womhlaba uncipha ukuya kwinqanaba, njengekoma, njengoko inabela elwandle. Sabhadula saya kule ncam inamanzi ecaleni kwe Idolophu endala Isitrato esikhulu, i-Corso Vittorio Emanuele, ethe-ethe ngqo, edlula kwi-Baroque kunye ne-Art Nouveau façades ngapha nangapha kunye nezilayi ezibengezelayo zolwandle oluhlaza ezidanyazayo kwizitrato ezisecaleni. Ukuguqula enye yezi zinto, asinakukwazi ukumelana neentaba zamakhekhe kunye neekeyiki ezifakwe kwiwindow yesiko khekhe. Sizamile a iparadesi Isiponji esimanzi-ramu esigutyungelwe nge-marzipan yegolide e-latticed, eyayiphila ngokuvisisana negama layo. Kwisiqithi esincinci esikufutshane kukho idolophu yaseMozia, elandelelanayo kumaFenike, amaCarthagini namaGrike. Abemi bexesha elizeleyo abasandula ukubakho yayinguWhitaker, usapho lwama-Anglo-Sicilian avelisa iwayini yaseMarsala amaBritane ayithanda kakhulu ngenkulungwane ye-19. Isiqithi esincinci sihamba ngemizuzu eli-10 ngephenyane ukusuka kwilizwekazi, kwaye xa ujonga emva elunxwemeni, ungabona iipani zetyuwa ezindala zisasazeka ngasemva kwakho kunye neephiramidi ezimhlophe, ezikude, ezifana ne-gazebos ezinkulu kodwa eziyinyani ityuwa yolwandle. Isiqithi sonke, esigutyungelwe ngokuyinxenye yimidiliya kunye nokukhuhla, yipaki yezinto zakudala, kunye ne-villa yaseWhitaker, enomtsalane kwaye indala, yeyayo imyuziyam. Into emileyo yi-Motya Charioteer, isiqwenga esihle somfanekiso okroliweyo wamaGrike wenkulungwane yesihlanu owafunyanwa ngabasebenzi ngexesha lokombiwa ngo-1979: yinto evusa inkanuko ngokungaqhelekanga, nelaphu elinamatye linamathele esinqeni nasemathangeni alo mzobo. Umhlaba kunye nolwandle lwaseSicily lubonakala ngokungapheliyo ukuvelisa obo buncwane: omnye, nomtsalane ngakumbi kumfanekiso wakudala wamaGrike lubhedu Ukudanisa uSatyr, Ukuloba ngokoqobo kwiStrait yaseSicily ngo-1998. Emva kweminyaka yokufunda kunye nolondolozo - singasathethi ke ngokuya kwimiboniso eRome, eParis, naseTokyo - ekugqibeleni inembali yeziko lolondolozo lwembali, iMuseo de Satiro. icawe eguqukileyo yenkulungwane ye-16 eMazara del Vallo. Nangona ilahlekile iingalo zayo kunye nomnye wemilenze yayo, iseyinto enyanzelekileyo, lo mzobo ubonakala ngathi uyavutha ngumdaniso wovuyo, intloko yakhe yaphosa umva kunye neenwele zihamba ngasemva, umzimba ujikeleza, amehlo ejonge. Umzobo uboniswe kakuhle, ngelixa ifilimu ichaza inkqubo enomdla yokufunyanwa kwayo kunye nomsebenzi onzima wokuyigcina. (Owayesakuba ngumphathi we-mafia, ngoku osebenzisana nabasemagunyeni, usandula ukuvuma ukuba wayeyalelwe ngabaphathi bakhe ukuba ayibe kwaye bayithengise eSwitzerland, ngokutsho koonondaba baseSicilian. Okuvuyisayo kukuba, lo myalelo awuzange wenziwe. igalari, yandichukumisa ukuba umfanekiso oqingqiweyo sisifaniso esifanelekileyo saseSicily uqobo: eyamandulo, eyabethwayo, exhomekeke ekubuyiselweni, kufutshane nokuphoswa, kunye neentlekele zembali- kunye nokuchaneka ngamandla kunye nobuhle bayo. Ukusuka ekhohlo: Abasebenzi baseOsteria dei Vespri, ePalermo; intlanzi entsha echwebeni laseTrapani; ukhenketho lwePalermo kwi-Piaggio Ape enamavili amathathu. USimon Watson Ukufumana iSicily yaseNtshona Yahlula uhambo lweveki phakathi kwePalermo kunye nentshona yesiqithi, kwaye uya kuba nexesha elininzi lokuthatha ezi zinto zilandelayo. Ukufika apho Bhabha kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya iPalermo (PMO) ngokudibanisa iRoma okanye enye indawo enkulu yaseYurophu. I-Central Palermo iyahamba, kodwa ukuqhuba yeyona ndlela ifanelekileyo yokufikelela kwinxalenye esentshona yesiqithi; uya kufumana uninzi lwezinto onokukhetha kuzo zokurenta imoto kufutshane nesikhululo seenqwelomoya. IPalermo Hlala Grand Hotel Villa Igiea : Ihotele yenkulungwane ye-19 luphawu lobuGcisa baseNtaliyane olujonge kwi-Bay yasePalermo. iphindwe kabini kwi $ 291. Yitya usele UAntica Focacceria San Francesco : Indawo enembali ibisoloko ibhaka isonka esisikiweyo ukusukela nge-1834-siyenza indala kunesizwe sase-Italiya uqobo. IKofu yaMazwe ngaMazwe : Ibha yenkundla, ikhefi, kunye nendawo yoluntu kunye nemiboniso yegalari rhoqo kunye neminyhadala yobugcisa . Ke Palle : Ikhonkco elithandwayo le-Sicilian arancini elinikezela ngaphezulu kweenguqu ezilishumi elinesibini zerayisi yebhola eyosiweyo. IOsteria dei Vespri: Le ndawo yokutyela yesikolo esidala liziko lasePalermo-njengoko kunjalo noluhlu lwewayini, olubonisa iibhotile ezingama-350. Ixabiso elimiselweyo lisuka kwi- $ 35. Ubugcisa neNkcubeko Imyuziyam yasePalazzo Butera: Le ndawo yokuhlala yobunewunewu, nehlala kuyo ingqokelela enkulu yobugcisa, iya kuba yindawo yeManifesta 12 yobugcisa emva kweminyaka emibini ifika ePalermo ngoJuni. Nge-Butera; 39-91-611-0162. IPalermo NoMafia : Inzuzo kolu tyelelo lwesixeko esiyi-antimafia yiya kumbutho osebenzela ukuphelisa iintlawulo zokhuselo . UMyuziyam waseSalinas Archaeological Museum : Ingqokelela ebanzi yezinto zakudala-kubandakanywa ubuncwane obufunyenwe kwiinqanawa zaseFenike ezaphukileyo-ezazimiselwe ukuphinda zivulwe ngoJuni. IMassimo Theatre : Ukulala ixesha elide ngexesha lokuphakama kweengxaki ze-mafia ze-Palermo, indlu enkulu ye-opera yesixeko ngoku ibamba iindidi zemveliso ezintsha kwindawo yayo eyaziwayo ye-Baroque (kunye ne-acoustically perfect). I-ZAC-Zisa ubuGcisa bemihla ngemihla : Iimpawu ze-Art-world ezifana no-Ai Weiwei zibonise kule ndawo kwikota yenkcubeko yeZisa. Trapani kunye neNtshona Hlala UBaglio Sorìa : Yenza le boutique yefama esehotele ngaphandle kweTrapani isiseko sakho sokuhlola iSicily yasentshona. iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-168 yeedola. Yitya usele Zaragoza : Le ndawo yokutyela isencamini yelichweba laseTrapani ichaphazela izitya ezigxilwe kukutya kwaselwandle njenge-bream yolwandle eyosiweyo kunye nepepile ebomvu. Ubugcisa neNkcubeko ICretto di Burri : Iprojekthi yobugcisa bomhlaba eGibellina, iyure esemazantsi ePalermo, kufanelekile ukuba ujikeleze . IMyuziyam yeSatiro: Ubhedu oludumileyo lwaseSicily lunekhaya elitsha: imyuziyam encinci ngaphakathi kwiCawa yaseSant'Egidio, kwilali yaseMazara del Vallo, emazantsi eMarsala. UPiza uPlebiscito; 39-923-933-917. Imyuziyam yaseWhitaker: Thatha isikebhe esivela eMarsala usiya kule myuziyam kwisiqithi saseMozia ukujonga ubuncwane obuvela kwikoloni yaseFenike eyayihlala apha ngenkulungwane yesihlanu B.C. Isiqithi saseSan Pantaleo; 39-923-712-598.