Kumzuzwana nje abahlobo beekholeji baqesha indlu eMontana ehlotyeni kwaye bamema usapho lwam kunye nam ukuba silutyelele. Kwi-imeyile equlethe ulwazi kwizikhululo zeenqwelo moya ezikufutshane babhale bathi, 'Uloliwe lukhetho.' I-Amtrak inomgca ohamba usuka eChicago usiya kwiPacific Northwest, uphela kwiPortland okanye eSeattle. Igqitha eGlacier National Park, kwiiyure ezimbalwa kude nendlu. Kukho isikhululo sikaloliwe esikumda osempuma wepaki.
Andizange ndiqiniseke ukuba ndakhe ndayibona indawo yomkhenkce yokwenene. E-Iceland kanye, mhlawumbi? Ukuthandabuza kwam kubonisa indlela endandikho ngayo ngamava. Ngokuqinisekileyo le iya kuba ngumkhenkce wam wokuqala opholileyo. Kwaye ndiyabathanda oololiwe. Kule minyaka mine okanye mihlanu idlulileyo I & apos; bendihamba ngololiwe ukuya nokubuya phakathi kwekhaya lam eNorth Carolina naseNew York City. Ndiye ndilale. Iindleko zingaphantsi kwitikiti lendiza lokugqibela. Ndikhwela eRocky Mount, isikhululo selizwe, malunga ne-2 kusasa, emva koko ndangqengqa kwangoko ndazifundela ukulala. Iyure ngaphambi kokuba ndifike eNew York, bayandivusa bandazise ukuba isidlo sakusasa silungile. Ndihlala phezu kwekofu kunye namaqanda ndibukele amasimi kunye nezakhiwo ezindala zezitena zasemantla eNew Jersey zihamba, kwaye isenokuba sishumi leminyaka kule minyaka ili-150 idlulileyo.
Amtrak & apos; s igama lomgca weChicago-to-Pacific-Northwest ngumakhi woBukhosi. Xa ndayijonga kwiWebhu, ndafumana umxholo weReuters owawusithi: 'Ukuze ubone ukuba kutheni u-Amtrak esopha imali, gxumagxuma phakathi eMidwestern' Empire Builder & apos; qeqesha. ' Oko kuphakamisa ukungathandeki okunomdla kum. Ukuba kukuhamba kwakhona, kwaye emva koko, kuya kufuneka ugcine incasa yokunyaniseka. Kodwa inqaku elihamba neli lifike malunga nokuba lo mzila, owaqala ukusebenza ngo-1929 njengenxalenye yoLoliwe oMkhulu waseMantla, uphulukana nemali ngaphandle kokunyuka kwesithuthi. Ngale ndlela, i-Empire Builder luphawu lwethamsanqa eliphelayo lokuhamba ngololiwe eMelika. Umgca obalulekileyo wokuqala odibanisa iMidwest ukuya eNtshona, ilandelela inxenye yeLewis kunye neClark Trail. Ngexesha layo, yayimele i-American, kakuhle, ubukhosi-kungasathethi ke ukuba akukho ndlela ibhetele yokujonga ilizwe ngaphandle kwenduduzo yemoto kaloliwe. Kukwafanelekile ukuba uqaphele ukuba ulawulo lwangoku lucebise ukuyekiswa kweendlela ze-Amtrak kunye neapos; umgama omde, kubandakanya ne-Empire Builder. Kolu hambo lubekiweyo, isiphelo somgca sinokuba kufutshane.
Njengoko sasilungiselela ukukhwela eChicago & Apos; s Union Station, into yokuqala endayiqaphelayo yayingamaMennonite. Imithwalo yazo. Bahlanganisana ndawonye, ngokulula iintsapho ezilishumi elinambini, okanye usapho olunye olukhulu kakhulu. La ngamaMennonite eOld Order ayenxibe iimpahla zasekhaya ezingenanto zomlimi wase-Central-century we-18-ohlaza kunye nabamnyama nabamhlophe, iminqwazi kunye neebhonethi. Babenomoya opholileyo nonobuhlobo. Ndizifumene ndifunda ubuso babo kunye namehlo agqithisileyo. Ukujonga kwam krwada akuzange kundinqande ekubeni ndibethe umlozi kwiintombi zam ezimbini nanini na ndizifumana zibukele. Inxalenye ebalulekileyo yobuzali ilungile ngokuhanahanisa.
U-Amtrak ubiza igumbi esinegumbi lokulala losapho. Uyilo lwayo lububuchule ngokwenene. Ubungakanani bekhabethe kodwa ilingana sobane, okanye ubuncinci ngokwaneleyo ukuba silale ngenene. Iibhedi ezimbini kwezine zihla zisuka eludongeni, ngaphezulu kwezinye ezimbini, njengeeflaps zekhadibhodi. Ngexesha lasemini ungazityhala kwaye usebenzise ezantsi ezimbini njengeesofa. Itafile yekhadi, iwindow. Andiphumelelanga ukuxoka: yayixinekile. Emva kweentsuku ezimbalwa uya kuqala ukuphulukana nengqondo. Kodwa iintsuku ezimbalwa? Kumnandi kakhulu.
Uloliwe unamanqanaba amabini, njengebhasi enomgangatho ophindwe kabini. Ngaphezulu iindawo zokujonga kunye neendawo zokutyela. Ababini kuthi babedla ngokuba phezulu phaya ngelixa abanye ababini babekwigumbi lethu, nto leyo eyayisenza ukuba amagumbi okusondeleyo akwazi ukwenzeka. Ngamaxesha onke sasidlula kumaMennonite kwizinyuko ezimxinwa. Babenembeko ekhethekileyo malunga ne-staircase etiquette, exhasa ukuze omnye umntu akwazi ukudlula. Kwaye kwathi cwaka. Kwisidlo sangokuhlwa, umzekelo, iitafile zabo bezithe cwaka kangangokuba ndiye ndaziva ndifuna ukulawula ilizwi lam, ukuze ndingonakalisi izidlo zabo nge-yakking yam engenabuthixo.
Kodwa bekungekho & apos; kunzima ukuyibeka phantsi intetho. Ndiyathetha, imeko yayimangalisa kakhulu. Ndandihleli apho ndiphethe isiteki esingahlambulukanga kunye nebhotile enganyanisekanga yewayini, njengoko uloliwe waqhushumba ethafeni ngesantya esiphezulu. Ngokusebenzisa iifestile ndabona isibhakabhaka saseMelika sivuleka, isibhakabhaka sidamba. Isifuba sam sanyuka. Besinxibe iimpahla ezintle sizokutya. Ndijonge macala onke - nabanye benze okufanayo. Wonke umntu wayencumile. Sonke satyala imali kumava oku ukukhwela uloliwe , enento yokwenza nombono othile waseMelika. Ndizamile ukungayihlalutyi, ndisazi ukuba iya kuhamba kakuhle xa ihlolwa. Ukusuka ekhohlo: Ichibi laseJosephine, elinye lamachibi aqingqwe ngumkhenkce kwiGlacier National Park; Ipaki kunye neapos; s Swiftcurrent Glacier, njengoko ibonwa kwindlela yokunyuka intaba. UChristopher Simpson
Uloliwe uhamba ngaphezulu kweekhilomitha ezingama-2 200, emantla ntshona eMinneapolis naseFargo, eMantla Dakota, emva koko entshona ngaphaya kwethafa lomkhenkce, ukuya naseMontana. Uhambo olumangalisayo, kodwa umhlaba awukho mhle kwaphela. Ngobo busuku bokuqala, uloliwe wema kwindawo ethile kumazantsi eMinnesota ngekhefu lomsi. Ndabuza lo mfazi wase-Amtrak owayephethe imoto yethu malunga namaMennonite. Ngaba babesoloko bebaninzi kangaka? Akusoloko kuninzi, utshilo, kodwa bekuhlala kuninzi. Babengabakhweli abafanelekileyo. Ngendlela efanayo akunakuthethwa, wakhala, kwabanye babavukuzi abakhwela uloliwe ukuya nokubuya emasimini emantla.
Ngoobani amaMennonite? Ndimbuzile. Kutheni bekhwela lo loliwe ngalo lonke ixesha? Andazi ukuba kutheni ndikhathalele kangaka.
Uthe banoluntu lonke kulo lonke umgca. Mhlawumbi bahlala kule mimandla ukuze babe kufutshane nomgaqo kaloliwe? Wayengaqinisekanga. AmaMennonite ngabantu abaqhelekileyo. Ukuhlangana kunye, ukudibana kwakhona kubalulekile. Ukuba usapho oluhlala kude lufuna ukwakha indlu okanye lusandul 'ukwamkela usana kwaye sele liza kulubhaptiza, ubudlelwane babo obude kwezinye iidolophu buza buhlala iiveki okanye inyanga. Yayingenguye & Apos; ukuba bekulindelwe ukuba okanye babenesisa esikhethekileyo. Yayisisigqi kwindlela yabo yobomi.
Umgca weorenji Njengoko kwakuthenjisiwe, kwakukho isikhululo sikaloliwe esibizwa ngokuba yi-East Glacier Park emaphethelweni epaki, malunga neekhilomitha ezingama-40 emazantsi omda waseCanada. Siye sehla. Ngqo phambi kwethu, singqongwe yingca eluhlaza eyandisiweyo, kwakumi iGlacier Park Lodge, apho sasiza kuchitha khona ubusuku. Icacise kubudlelwane obumnandi phakathi komdla wequmrhu kunye norhulumente. Ngapha koko, ubukho beGlacier & apos; ubukho bayo abubanga nxalenye encinci kwiinzame zeGreat Northern Railway, eyakha iziseko zophuhliso zabakhenkethi yaza yacela urhulumente ukuba aseke ipaki yesizwe. Kodwa andithethi ukuba 'ndonwabile' ngendlela embi. Uluvo loololiwe abakhulu abakhwela bakuse ngqo kwipaki yesizwe kwaye bakuyeke uphume apho ungazami ukukuthengisa nantoni na - andazi ukuba siyenzile loo nto eMelika.
Kwakungekho bantu baninzi babenyuka kunye nathi. Ukususela ebuntwaneni bendinxulumene iipaki zesizwe ngezihlwele kwaye, ngenxa yoko, ukungathandeki. Kodwa ngokungafaniyo Yellowstone okanye iYosemite, iGlacier & apos; amaxabiso okuhamba asezantsi kakhulu. Sasilapho iintsuku ezintlanu ehlotyeni kwaye kwakunzima ukulinda emgceni.
Ukonwaba kosapho ecaleni, size kubabona umkhenkce omkhenkce. Ngosuku olulandelayo saqasha imoto kwikhawuntara kwivenkile ngokubanzi kwaye saqhuba iyure emantla. Sijonge eSt Mary Lodge kwaye emva kwethutyana sahamba ngephenyane eSt Mary Lake. Isikhephe somthi sasiyinto efana neminyaka eli-100 ubudala. Ukapteni waye mhle, umntwana omncinci, eneenwele ezimhlophe ezibukhali njenge surfer. Wayezazi izinto zakhe, nangona. Waqala ukuthetha ngeenduli ezisingqongileyo. Kwakumangalisa ukuba bangaphi ababonakalayo ukuba banesikizi ngento ethile: imililo, ulusu, izinambuzane. Eminye yayo yayingumjikelo wendalo wamahlathi, utshilo, kodwa okuninzi kwakukutsha kwaye kuyakhathaza. Siyabubona ubungqina, ukanti iivistas ezaneleyo ezingonakaliswanga zahlala zikhona ukuba anganika ukhenketho lwendalo nobuhle. Oku kundinike umbono wobukhulu baseMelika kunye ne-apos, kodwa kunye nokuqina kwayo.
Umgca weorenji 