Emva koko, ngo-1990, njengokuba usuku-lonke ungquzulwano phakathi kwemikhosi karhulumente kunye nabavukeli be-FARC lwaya lusanda, ukupheliswa koqoqosho kwaluthumela olu shishino. UFajardo, 35, uvela kwisizukulwana sokuqala ukuba akhule ngaphandle kwekofu njengomthombo othembekileyo wengeniso; abaninzi bashiye ukuphonononga okunokwenzeka kwenye indawo. Ndibuze uFajardo noGosling, abasuka eNew Zealand, ukuba kutheni begqibe kwelokuba bafudukele eQuindío ukuze baqale ishishini labo. Apha, awunyanzelekanga ukuba uhlale uthandabuza ukuba ikhona into enokwenzeka, uFajardo undixelele. Urhulumente kunye ne-FARC batyikitya isivumelwano soxolo ngo-2016. Nangona iQuindío yayihlala ingummandla okhuselekileyo, ukungabikho kozinzo kwavula indlela yomngcipheko, kunye neendlela ezintsha zokucinga malunga nalo mhlaba uchumileyo unganikeza. Inguqu yeza, njengoko ihlala isenzeka, emva kwengxaki.

Ngobusuku bam bokuqala e-Eje Cafetero, ndalala kwindawo evulwe ngokutsha Ihotele iBio Habitat , ingqokelela yeetyhubhu zeglasi eziyi-12 ezibekwe kummango wenduli yefama yangaphambili yekofu. Ndikhe ndatya isidlo sangokuhlwa kwindawo yokutyela emnandi esizeni, Irhabaxa , apho umpheki oneminyaka engama-31 ubudala uMaría Clara Roa ehambisa utywala obenziwe endlwini obufakwe i-maracuyá, okanye iziqhamo ezinomdla, kunye nezitya ezazinika imbeko yokwahluka kwengingqi yaseColombia kunye nentabalala yemveliso entsha. Ndicinga ukuba silubona utshintsho kwizizukulwana kunye nomdla okhulayo kwindalo nolondolozo, wandixelela. Kwaye kwenzeka into efanayo nakwiivenkile zokutyela. Sisebenza kunye neefama zalapha ekhaya, incasa yemveli, izithako zemveli.

Ndavuka ndabona imidiliya yehlathi ehlangeneyo, ilenga njengamakhethini ngaphandle kwegumbi lam leendwendwe elenziwe ngodonga lweglasi, kunye neoncreeper eneblue eluhlaza ebekwe kwi balcony yam. Njengoko ilanga laliphuma, ligutyungelwe ngamafu oboya afumileyo, ndahamba ndaya ehlathini kunye no-Nicolás Giraldo Echeverry oneminyaka engama-25 ubudala, owashiya inkqubo yakhe yobugqirha eBogotá ukuze aqalise umhambisi wabatyeleli UPenelope Birding kunye nomzala wakhe, uCamilo Ernesto Echeverri García. I-Toucans ubungakanani kunye nombala wee-avokhado zahlala phakathi kwamagqabi amakhulu esilivere yemithi ye-yagrumo, kwaye iiheliconias zathontelana ezantsi phezu komlambo ogqumayo.

YayinguGiraldo owandisa kwifama kaZuluaga ngaloo njikalanga. Emva kokujikeleza amabala ixesha elingaphezulu kweyure, sahlala sazenzela iikomityi zekhephu ebomvu, enemibala emnandi yohlobo lwejasmine kunye neentyatyambo zeorenji- uhlobo lwekofu, kude kube yiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo, olwalungenakufumaneka apha. Namhlanje, uGiraldo undixelele ukuba, iivenkile ezincinci zekofu ziye zavela kuyo yonke i-Eje Cafetero, iindawo ezinje Khulisa ikofu eFilandia kunye Ikofu rhoqo Kwidolophu enkulu yaseCircasia, eziphatha iimbotyi ngentlonipho kunye nokhathalelo olufanelekileyo.

Emva kosuku, ndahamba ngenqwelo-mafutha ndaya kwiNtlambo iCocora, apho kwakumi iintende ze-wax ezithe tyaba kumadlelo aluhlaza aqaqambileyo njengemikhonto. Kwiminyaka emine eyadlulayo, uMaría Camila Ospina, 29, wavula ihotele encinci ye-eco kufutshane naseSalento ebizwa Ikhabhathi nabazali bakhe, uHéctor noLina, bajika ii-haciendas ezimbini kwifama yosapho yenkulungwane ubudala kwigumbi lama-10 elilula kodwa elintofontofo. Ukusuka kwizangqa ezixhonywe ngobuvila phantsi kweeveranda ezinzulu, unokubona amawa agutyungelwe lihlathi ephakama ethintela isibhakabhaka. Kwithala legadi, elijikelezwe ziinyibiba kunye neentaka-zeparadesi, ndatya enye yezona zinto zininzi zokutya ebendinazo e-Eje Cafetero: itrout yonke yanyinyitheka ngomlilo ovulekileyo kwindawo yokuhlambela igalikhi kunye nobisi olunengca, olunengca. kusuku olungaphambi kweenkomo zasefama.

Ndibuyele e-Helena Adentro emva kwemini elandelayo, ndayalela ii-marranitas, ngokwesiko isitya se-croquettes ezigutywe inyama yehagu egayiweyo, ecinga apha njenge-orbs ecekecekileyo yombona omhlophe ogcwele i-porc shank kwaye unxibe i-quad rashhero ye-queso. Ndidle itshizi yobisi lweebhokhwe, eveliswe ngumpheki oneminyaka engama-35 ubudala, uJuan Luis Mejía kusapho lwakhe oluneminyaka engama-200 ubudala i-hacienda, kunye nesaladi ye-chicharrón eyomileyo, e-Central-Colombian ekhethekileyo, eyaphukileyo phakathi kwetumato, itswele, kunye namacangci eorenji emnandi yasemandarin. Ndasela Ngenxa yokuba iRum , ifakwe iArmenia ekufuphi, yagalelwa kumhlaba ongumkhenkce ogcwele iintyatyambo ezipinki ezikhule kwifama yase-Helena Adentro kumda weFilandia. Umbono kukuba ungayenza into entsha ngazo zonke izithako ezifanayo, utshilo uGosling. Ziincasa zaseColombia ezidityaniswe ngeendlela ezintsha.

Ukuhamba nje umgama omfutshane, kwithambeka elingasentla kwidolophana yaseCalarcá, uFajardo nomntakwabo, uMiguel, bazise indlela efanayo kwisivuno esidumileyo sale ngingqi. Ngentsasa ndandwendwele ifama yabo yekofu eneminyaka emine ubudala, uMiguel wandikhapha ndenyuka ndisihla endulini engumnqantsa phakathi kwemiqolo ye-bourbon, geisha, kunye ne-woosh woosh - iintlobo ezingadli ngokutyalwa e-Eje Cafetero, ezinye zikhula kakuhle, ezinye zinobunzima ixesha. Umhlaba wawunuka ufumile, uhlaziyekile; amajikijolo athathwe nguMiguel kwizityalo zawo ayenetannic kwaye amnandi, iintyatyambo ezimhlophe zikhazimla njengeenkwenkwezi phakathi kwamagqabi aluhlaza.

Phantsi kwindlu esezifama, u-Alejandro wayezifake phezu kwesitovu esitshisa iinkuni, elungisa i-tamales kunye nokuphinda afudumeze ubhontshisi obomvu obutyebileyo obuvela kubusuku obungaphambili, uhlobo lokutya kwesintu anethemba lokukunika iindwendwe xa ekugqibeleni ifama ivula indlu yeendwendwe. Ifama ibizwa njalo IFenix , U-Miguel ucacisile xa sijonge ngaphaya kwentlambo enobumba ethe saa apha ngezantsi, kuba ivuke eluthuthwini.

Ukuphonononga i-Eje Cafetero

Ukufika apho

Iidolophu ezininzi zase-US zineenkonzo ezingapheliyo eBogotá, malunga neekhilomitha ezili-190 empuma ye-Eje Cafetero. Ukusuka apho ungabamba inqwelomoya yasekhaya eya eArmenia, emva koko uqeshe imoto kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya.

Ukhenketho lweKofi

Iifama ezininzi zekofu ezisebenzayo zenza ukhenketho olucwangcisiweyo okanye olungekho sikweni, kubandakanya Ifama yeMemori , kufutshane neSalento, kunye IFenix , ngaphandle kweArmenia. Impahla yokhenketho UPenelope Birding Iqhuba ukhenketho olunye nolunye ngeeholide oludibanisa ukutyelelwa kwefama, ukungcamla ikofu, kwaye, kunjalo, ukubona ezinye zeentaka ezinqabileyo zaseColombia.

Iindawo zokutyela kunye neeCafés

Indawo yokutyela enemibala eFilandia Helena Ngaphakathi , kunye nemenyu ejikelezayo esebenzisa kuphela imveliso ye-hyperlocal, ithathwa ngokubanzi njengeziko lokupheka le-Eje Cafetero. Kufuphi, Khulisa ikofu unemibono emangalisayo yeentaba kwaye ukhonza ikofu yobugcisa, kunye nokutya kwangoku kudla izitya zaseColombia ezinje ngechinchulines (amathumbu enkomo eqhotsiweyo) kunye neekroyi zekhepusi yequeso campesino. Ukuqinisekisa Ikofu rhoqo , kwidolophu yaseCircasia, kunye ICafe La Tertulia , eCalarcá, baye baba yi-meccas yekofu yengingqi.

Uhlala phi

Ihotele yeBio Habitat yingqokelela yeglasi-indlu-yesitayile sendlu ejikelezwe lihlathi elinemithi. Kukho iphuli engapheliyo, iziko lezeMpilo, kunye nendawo yokutyela ecothayo, Irhabaxa , Kumpheki uMaría Clara Roa. Ngamava angakumbi okwalusa, ezabanini bosapho Ikhabhathi yotywala unikezela ngamagumbi amnandi kunye nokukhwela ihashe kwifama yobisi esebenzayo.

Umcebisi wezohambo

I-Medellín-based Marc Beale, ingcali yaseColombia kwi Ukuhamba + Ukuzonwabisa Uluhlu lwe-A, lunokunceda ekucwangciseni uhambo olujolise kwikofu.

Inguqulelo yeli bali yaqala ukubonakala kwiphepha likaJulayi 2020 Ukuhamba + Ukuzonwabisa phantsi komxholo Utywala obucebileyo .