Kwiyure ezimbalwa ndifikile kwisiqithi saseIschia, bendicelwe yindoda ekwiVespa, ndasinda kwingozi yemoto encinci, ndatya ukutya okumnandi kakhulu bendifuna ukuncamisa umnwe wam ndisithi, Perfetto! Apha kwingingqi yeCampania esemazantsi e-Italiya, ubomi bumalunga nokuthelekisa. Kukho idolophu enkulu edumileyo yaseNaples, apho bendiqale khona uhambo lwam; kukho izixeko zakudala ezonakalisiweyo zasePompeii naseHerculaneum, ezihleli phantsi kweNtaba iVesuvius, intaba-mlilo eyazitshabalalisayo; kukho iindawo eziphakamileyo zaseSorrento, eCapri, nase-Amalfi Coast. Kwaye kukho uIschia.

Ndandiqala ukufunda ngo-Ischia emsebenzini ka-Elena Ferrante, umbhali oyimfihlakalo, ongaziwayo wase-Italiya owayeneencwadi zakhe malunga nobuhlobo phakathi kwamantombazana amabini asuka kwindawo yaseNeapolitan ekrwada. Kwinoveli yokuqala, uMhlobo wam oqaqambileyo (owawusandula ukwenziwa kuthotho lwe-HBO), umbalisi, u-Elena Greco, ushiya ikhaya lakhe ngo-1950s eNaples okokuqala ukuchitha ihlobo e-Ischia. Isiqithi sihambo nje olufutshane ngephenyane, kodwa kunokuba kwenye iplanethi. Ndikhululekile kupolitiko losapho olucinezelayo, u-Elena, owaziwa njengo-Len as, ufumanisa ubumnandi belanga nolwandle, lweentsuku ezichithwe engenzi nto elunxwemeni. I-Ischia ityalwe ngamandla kwaye iphila ngemisebenzi ye-volcanic, izele zizinto ezifihliweyo zejoloji ezikhupha umphunga onesalfure kwaye zikhuphe amanzi ashushu, atyebileyo amaminerali. Kwiimeko eziluhlaza, ezinobushushu, u-Elena akanakunceda ukuthandana okokuqala ngqa.

Ke kwabonakala kufanelekile ukuba ndingafane ndibeke unyawo lwam kuIschia ngaphambi kokuba umntu ondikhangelayo andifumane. Isikhokelo sam, uSilvana Coppa, i-Ischian yomthonyama, wandilahla kuhola wendlela odibanisa idolophu yaseIschia Ponte ukuya eCastello Aragonese, inqaba eyomeleleyo eyakhiwe kanye elunxwemeni kwibhola encinci yomeleleyo yomlilo wentaba-mlilo. KumaXesha Aphakathi, uSilvana wandixelela, abantu bedolophu baya khona ukuzimela kubaphangi, okanye ukuqhuma kwentaba-mlilo, okanye naliphi na igunya laseMeditera elifuna ukuthimba isiqithi ngokulandelayo. Kule mihla, inqaba isebenza njengemyuziyam kunye namaxesha athile kwinkwenkwezi yescreen, yenza ukubonakala kwiTalente Mnu. Ripley kunye nokulungiswa koMhlobo wam oqaqambileyo.

Njengoko ndandihamba ngohambo lwendlela, indoda eneminyaka emibini ephakathi yadlula iVespa, indinika i-ogle elungileyo yakudala njengoko yayihamba. Emva koko watsala.

UDeutsche? Ubuze.

Iindaba zokuba ndingumMelika zenze umboniso wokumangaliswa-iindwendwe zaseMelika zisenqabile e-Ischia, nangona mhlawumbi zinqabile njengoko enzile. Indoda yabuza ukuba ndihlala iintsuku ezingaphi.

Sizichitha kunye, utshilo. Watsho ngelitshoyo esifubeni. Inkwenkwe yakho.

Ndiye ndahleka kancinci. Ndithe hayi enkosi kwaye, ndisiya ndinyanzelisa i-Ciaos, ndabuya umva ndaya eSilvana kunye ne-Piaggio ebomvu kunye nomhlophe enamavili amathathu elinde ukusithatha sijikeleze isiqithi. Walibalisela ibali kumqhubi wam, uGiuseppe. Uthi kuzakufuneka silumke singalahlekelwa nguwe, wandixelela ndihleka.

Ukulahleka kwi-Ischia kwakungabonakali ngathi kukukhetha okubi, ndacinga, njengoko sasifaka ngaphakathi kwaye sinyuka indlela yethu inyuka intaba, kude needolophu ezixakekileyo zolwandle kunye ne-thermal spas ezihehe abantu baseYurophu kwizizukulwana ngezizukulwana. Sadlula izidiliya, imithi yelamuni, amasundu nemipayini, i-bougainvillea egalela phezu kweendonga ezakhiwe kwiinkulungwane ezadlulayo ukusuka kwiibhloko zelitye lentaba-mlilo elinentaba, okanye i-tufa, zidityaniswe zangqinelana kangangokuba azide zifune nodaka. Kumhlobo wam oqaqambileyo, uLenù uchaza indlela u-Ischia amnika ngayo intlalo-ntle endandingazange ndayazi ngaphambili. Ndive imvakalelo yokuba kamva ebomini bam yayihlala iphindaphindwa: uvuyo olutsha.

Ndikhe ndachitha iintsuku ezimbalwa kuphela kwisixeko sasekhaya sikaLenù, kodwa ndandisele ndinokuqonda imeko yokubuyiselwa ayithathileyo esuka eIschia. Eyona ndlela yokuyixabisa ngokwenene i-idyll yesiqithi, kuvela, kukuba ufike apho unengxolo kwaye ungalawuleki kwaye uxinekile kwaye uyinyani ngokungathandabuzekiyo-ndawo efana neNaples.

Ukunyaniseka, izinto endandizilindele eNaples zazingaphakamanga. Ndithanda ukuthambekela ekubandeni, kwiindawo ezinabantu abambalwa, ezilungeleleneyo apho abantu bangathethi ngezandla-okanye bathethe kakhulu konke-ngokuchasene neshushu, i-labyrinthine yeedolophu zaseMeditera ezichazwe ngokubanzi njengezobukrwada, apho wonke umntu ekhwaza omnye umntu uyakwazi ukulinda ithuba labo.

Kwiinoveli zikaFerrante, abalinganiswa bahlala bevuthulula iintloko zabo bephosa izithuko kulwimi lwesiNeapolitan, ipatois ecacileyo engavakaliyo nakwamanye amaTaliyane, edityaniswa ngokudibeneyo ukusuka kulwimi olushiyekileyo lwabo bonke abake beza bemka kwizibuko: amaGrike, awaseka isixeko malunga ne-600 BC; amaRoma, awalandelayo; amaByzantine, amaFrentshi, amaSpanish, ama-Arabhu, amaJamani, kunye, nasemva kweMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi, amaMelika, awaphosa isangqa njengeelekese. UFerrante akasoloko ezama ukudlulisa kanye le nto ithethwayo ngolwimi - mhlawumbi izithuko zoyikeka kakhulu kubantu abangasena-Neapolitans ukuba banyamezele. Obu bushushu buthi babonakaliswe yimbonakalo yomhlaba: ngenxa yoxinaniso lwabemi kwisiseko salo, izazinzulu zicinga ukuba iNtaba iVesuvius yenye yeentaba-mlilo eziyingozi emhlabeni.

Kodwa kwangoko, ndaqala ukuphumelela. Imibala indifumene kuqala. Ukusuka kwibhalkoni yam eGrand Hotel Parker, kwiinduli zommandla waseTony Chiaia, ndibukele ilanga litshona lifudumeza ubuso besakhiwo esixineneyo kunye nesakhiwo esidibeneyo, sikhupha ii-hues ezazibonakala ngathi zinxulumene nokutya: ibhotolo, isafron, ithanga, isalmon, iminti, ilamuni. Isithambiso esiphothiweyo seVesuvius sajika samfusa mgama, kwaye ngaphesheya kwamanzi, ndinokukwazi ukwenza umgca omdaka weCapri unyuka ngaphezulu komaleko wenkungu. Kulungile, kulungile. INaples intle.

Ngentsasa elandelayo, ndahamba uhambo olude noRosaria Perrella, umembi wezinto zakudala okwiminyaka engamashumi amathathu ubudala owabuyela eNaples emva kweminyaka eli-11 eRoma naseBerlin. Bendinethemba lokuba angandinceda ndenze ingqiqo ngale ndawo.

ENaples, siyathanda ukuhlala yonke into iqhotyoshelwe, wandixelela uRosaria. Sasikweyona ndawo indala esixekweni, iCentro Storico, kwaye wayelatha indlela nezakhiwo ekungafuneki ukuba zidityaniswe, zineebhulorho ezimnandi kunye nezongezo zokwexeshana ezivala izikhewu phakathi kwazo.
Le yindlela siyithanda ngayo, utshilo. Ufuna ukwazi ukuba ummelwane wakho usegumbini lokuhlambela.

Wayechaza amaphupha am amabi - nangona ndandingenako ukubuphika ubumnandi bezitrato ezimxinwa, ezenziwe ngetufa, apho ukuhlamba impahla kwakusuka kwiibhalkoni kunye neewotshi ezaziphakathi kwabantu ababencokola ecaleni kwendlela. Abalindi ngeetreyi zeespresso badubula ngokungxama, benza umnxeba endlwini. Kukho into endibethekise entloko. Yibhaskithi eyayithotywa kwifestile engentla. Umfana esitalatweni wakhupha imali kuyo kwaye wafaka iisigarethi.

Sisixeko somaleko, kwaye zonke ziyahlangana, utshilo uRosaria. Abantu abanengxaki? Siyabamkela! Wayefuna ukuba ndazi ukuba nangona urhulumente onzima wokulwa nokufudukela kwelinye ilizwe wayesandula ukubusa e-Itali, iNaples yahlala inobuhlobo kubafuduki kunye neembacu-isimo sengqondo, esifana nolwimi lwasekhaya, lilifa leenkulungwane zokudibana kwenkcubeko.

Abanye abantu banengxaki ngakumbi kunabanye, nangona kunjalo, kwaye ulwaphulo-mthetho olulungelelanisiweyo kudala lunegalelo kwidumela elibi laseNaples kunye nophuhliso lwayo olucothayo xa kuthelekiswa nezinye iidolophu ezinkulu zase-Itali. ICamorra, njengoko inguqulelo yeNeapolitan yeMafia yaziwa, inikezelwe ngakumbi kunogxa wayo waseSicilian, uninzi lwamaqela emigulukudu ekhuphisana ngamandla nommandla. Njengoko iinoveli zikaFerrante zenza kucace, esi sakhiwo silawula isixeko kwiminyaka yamashumi amahlanu, xa iintsapho kwindawo yaseLenù (ekucingelwa ukuba yiRione Luzzati, empuma yesikhululo sikaloliwe saseGaribaldi - okwangoku yayingeyona ndawo yegadi) kugcinwa iivenkile okanye kwaqhutywa imivalo kodwa ngokwenene ukutyeba kwintengiso emnyama, ukubolekisa ngemali mboleko, kunye nokuphanga.

Baselapha, uRosaria wavuma ngeCamorra, kodwa wathi abanamdla wokukhathaza abakhenkethi. Ukanti, njengabanini bamashishini besi sixeko, bema ukuze baxhamle kwiinqwelomoya ezitsha ezihambisa iindwendwe ezizisa iindwendwe zangaphandle zikhangela ukukhanya kwelanga kunye namava aphilileyo, ayinyani e-Itali.

URosaria wandikhokelela ezantsi kwiindlela ezimxinwa, ezimnyama kunye nezikwere ezibhakwe lilanga ezirhangqwe ziicawa, ipalazzi kunye neeresityu zokutyela. Undibonise iintendelezo zabucala ezizolileyo kufutshane nezona ndawo zinabantu abaninzi kwaye wandisa kwizitrato ezaziwa ngeevenkile zabo ezikhethekileyo, ezinje ngeVia San Sebastiano, apho kuthengiswa izixhobo zomculo, nasePort'Alba, apho kuthengiswa khona abathengisi beencwadi.

Kwi-Via San Gregorio Armeno, mhlawumbi esona sitrato sinevenkile saziwa kakhulu eNaples, abathengisi bathengisa amakhubalo kunye neemagnethi kunye namatyathanga abalulekileyo amile okweempondo ezincinci ezibomvu, okanye i-cornicelli, ngethamsanqa. Kodwa awunakuzithengela enye, utshilo uRosaria. Umntu othile kufuneka akunike.

Eyona nto inomdla esitratweni, nangona kunjalo, ziivenkile ezizaliswe ngabantu, okanye i-presepi, ngokwesiko amaKatolika ayibonisa ngeKrisimesi. Oku akunciphisi, ii-anodyne manger kodwa ziyatyibilika, ziimodeli eziyilwe ngobunono kwiidolophu zenkulungwane ye-18, ezinye ziziinyawo ezide, zinabathengisi kunye nababhaki kunye nabantu bazo zonke iintlobo babe nexesha elimnandi. Ukucoca kwangaphambili kwangaphambili kwakho, ungongeza nayiphi na imifanekiso engathandekiyo oyithandayo. Ukuba ucinga ukuba u-Elvis okanye uMikhail Gorbachev okanye uJustin Bieber kufuneka baye kuzalwa kukaYesu, iifoto zabo zinokufumaneka ngokulula kwi-Via San Gregorio Armeno.

Yayiyimibala yaseNaples eyaqala ukuqhekeza isikrweqe sam, kodwa yayikukutya kwaseNaples okwakuyophula kwaphela (mhlawumbi ngaphakathi, ngenxa yokwanda kwesinqe). Ngekofu, uRosaria wandisa eCaffè Mexico, iziko elenziwe ngombala o-orenji kufutshane neGaribaldi apho ii-baristas zisinike khona ii-espressos zethu ezibekwe malunga neesosi ezisixhenxe umntu ngamnye-i-prank ethambileyo ngathi singabantu abakumgangatho ophezulu, utshilo uRosaria.

Njengokuzifudumeza isidlo sasemini, wandisa eSchaurchio, eyona venkile indala yekeyiki, ndenzela i-sfogliatelle: iqokobhe elimdaka, elimile okwekhephu lifakwe iswiti, i-eggy ricotta custard kunye ne-citrus peel ecandekileyo. Isidlo sasemini saya eSpiedo d'Oro Trattoria, umngxunya womama kunye no-pop odongeni olusemaphethelweni eKota yeSpain. I-pop, i-Enzo, yayinamadevu anetyuwa kunye nepepile kwaye yakhupha i-pasta, isaladi kunye nentlanzi kwisihlwele esidibana nenkonzo yokulwa. Iimali ezintlanu zindithengele isitya esityayo se-pasta esine-eggplant kunye ne-tomato kwaye, emva koko, umnqweno onamandla wokungqengqa. Kodwa, eNaples, ndafumanisa, kungcono ukuqhubeka nokutya. Le yimarathon ye-carb, hayi i-carb sprint, emva kwayo yonke loo nto, kwaye bendingakhange ndifike nakwipitsa.

Emva kwemini, uRosaria wandisa kwigadi enezindlu zeemonki zaseSanta Chiara, indawo eyayizolile phakathi kwazo zonke izidubedube zasezidolophini. Imithi ye-orenji kunye nelamuni ikhula phakathi kweentsika kunye neebhentshi ezigqunywe kwiithayile ze-majolica-nganye kuzo ipeyintwe ngemidiliya, iziqhamo, kunye nemifanekiso yobomi benkulungwane ye-18: iinqanawa kunye neenqwelana, abazingeli nabelusi, umtshato. Ngamanye amaxesha esi sixeko siyandiphambanisa, kodwa ke kukho le nto, utshilo uRosaria. Ubonakalise amagqabi arhabaxa, i-hush ebiyelwe ngodonga. Yile nto ndiyibuyeleyo eNaples.

Ndandiqala ukuyifumana: indlela izinto ezichaseneyo neziphikisanayo zaseNaples zenza ukuba ubomi apho buzive buzibandakanya kwaye buzolile, buzele ngamacebo Umzuzu omnye ndandishushu kakhulu kwaye ndinyinyithekile kwaye ndikufutshane nokuqhutywa yi-phalanx ye-Fiats ekhathalayo; elandelayo ndaye ndathandwa kukuxinana kobomi, imfudumalo abahlobo ababulisana ngayo esitratweni, ukukhanya kwegolide ngokuhlwa ebhantsini.

Kwaye masingakulibali ipitsa. Ingoma yayo ye-siren ayinakuphepheka eNaples, isixeko ekukholelwa ukuba yindawo esayilwa kuyo. Uninzi lweendawo zakudala, ezinje nge-L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele kunye neSorbillo Pizzeria, ziseCentro Storico, kodwa ndaya ku-50 Kalò, indawo eneminyaka emihlanu ubudala eMergellina, egxininisa izithako ezisemgangathweni. Apho, ndanikwa ipitsa esemargherita elingana nehubcap ndaza ndashiyeka ndedwa ukwenza umsebenzi.

Akukho ndlela ndingayitya ngayo yonke le nto, ndacinga, emva koko ndayitya yonke loo nto. Uqweqwe lwalucekeceke kwaye luhlafuna kwaye lunetyiwa ngokwaneleyo. Isosi yayiqaqambile kwaye ibukeka kwaye ilungile ngokuchanekileyo itshizi. Ngamanye amaxesha ndiziva ndingonwabanga ukutya ndedwa, kodwa akukho namnye owakha wandijonga. Bonke babexakeke ziipitsa zabo, ubomi babo. Umlungiseleli akazange ayeke nokubuza ukuba ukutya kulungile na, kuba ndiyakrokrela, wayesazi ukuba kulungile, kwaye ukuba ndinoluvo olwahlukileyo, ndandisisidenge.

Oku kuphakamisa inyani enkulu malunga neNaples. Umzila wabakhenkethi kwizixeko ezinjengeFlorence neVenice unokuba nococeko, uhlobo lwe-Epcot yase-Itali ™ ️, kodwa akukho nto igqunyiweyo okanye eyenziweyo malunga neNaples. Idrama yayo-ubomi bayo-yeyayo. Wamkelekile ethekweni, kodwa akukho mntu uzokukugcina okanye akubambe ngesandla okanye enze iinzame zokuphepha ukukuqhuba nge-moped. Ngokubuyisa ufumana ubumfihlo, ipokotho yakho encinci yoxolo ngaphakathi kobudenge.

Imiboniso eIschia naseNaples, e-Itali Ukusuka ekhohlo: Igumbi lamakhadi kwihotele iIs'ea L'Albergo della Regina Isabella; IScaturchio, indawo ekubhakwa kuyo kwiCentro Storico yaseNaples. | Ityala: UDanilo Scarpati

Okwangoku, emva kweentsuku ezimbalwa esixekweni, i-Ischia yayibonakala ngathi sisikelelwe, isiqabu soxolo-ubuncinci de uPiaggio wethu wadibana nendlu. Kwangaphambi koko, uSilvana wayendithathe ndaya kulibala apho ndandibona khona unxweme lwaseMaronti, indawo yeentsuku ezinde nezonqenayo zikaLenù. Endless and deserted is how Ferrante echaza ukolulwa kwesanti ngoku, kumashumi eminyaka kamva, egcwele imigca yeambrela ezimibalabala yolwandle kunye neendawo zokutyela kunye neehotele.

Njengokuba sasihamba kwindlela enamanzi, iivili ezintathu zajika ngequbuliso. Kwakukho isikroba kunye nokuphazamiseka, kwaye kwafika ngesiquphe ukumisa impumlo-kuqala ngokuchasene nendlu emhlophe ye-stucco. Wonke umntu wayelungile, wothuka nje. Olu yayiluhlobo lwento eyayifanele ukuba yenzeke eNaples, hayi i-Ischia. UGiuseppe wabetha intloko yakhe; USilvana wakrwela isandla sakhe; Ndifumene iqhuma elilingana nesiqingatha sebhola yentenetya kwi-shin yam. Abahlali bendlu esingqubeke kuyo (ebingonakaliswanga) ngobubele basimemela ngaphakathi kwaye bandinika ipakethe yomkhenkce.

Xa kwafika omnye uPiaggio, ndaxelela uSilvana ukuba ndizakudinga iglasi yewayini ngesidlo sasemini, kwaye wathi uyayazi nje indawo. I-Sant'Angelo, enye yeedolophu ze-Ischia, iyabizwa-okanye mhlawumbi iyazibiza-yi-Little Positano. Khange ndiye ePositano kwaye ke ngekhe nditsho ukuba uthelekiso lubambe kangakanani, kodwa ndingatsho ukuba uSant'Angelo uyaphupha. Iimoto azivumelekanga, ke uhamba (okanye uqhwithela, kwimeko yam) wehle uye ngasemanzini, ecaleni kwendlela ethe tyaba eneevenkile ezimhlophe ezimfamekileyo kunye nezindlu, nakwisiqithi esimxinwa esinomncinci omncinci kwelinye icala nonxweme enye. Isidlo sasemini, kwivaranda ebandayo, enophahla kwindawo yokutyela eseCasa Celestino ebuhlungu, bendineplate yeoyile, isaladi yokutya kwaselwandle, elandelwa zii-prawns kwindlwane ye-scialatielli kunye neeribhoni ezinde zelemon.

Zingaphi iiglasi zewayini onazo? USilvana wayefuna ukwazi emva koko.

Isibini, esimhlophe esimhlophe seIschian, ndimxelele. Ukubuyela ehotele yam, u-L'Albergo della Regina Isabella, ndibalandele ngeyona ndawo ibhetele yebhotile ye-champagne ngelixa ndiqhwesha isinqa sam - hayi nje ukubhiyozela ukusinda ekufeni kuka-Piaggio kodwa kuba yayilusuku lwam lokuzalwa. Ke, ngelixesha ndenza indlela yam yokuhla ndaya elwandle emva kweyure, kanye emva kokuba ilanga lasemva kwemini liqala ukuba nzulu malunga nokujika igolide, ndaziva ndonwabile.

Imiboniso yaseNaples naseIschia, e-Itali Ukusuka ekhohlo: Iindadi elunxwemeni ePosillipo, ummandla waseNaples; isidlo kwimenyu yokutya kwaselwandle e-Indaco, indawo yokutyela eneenkwenkwezi eMicrosoft e-L'Albergo della Regina Isabella, eIschia. | Ityala: UDanilo Scarpati

URegina Isabella, owasekwa ngo-1956 ngumshicileli wase-Itali kunye nomvelisi wefilimu u-Angelo Rizzoli, usenobungangamsha be-Old Hollywood, eyathi nge-1960's heyday, watsala iindwendwe ezaziwayo njengoRichard Burton no-Elizabeth Taylor, uClark Gable, noMaria Callas. Ezi ntsuku zilingana nehotele yomfazi wase-Italiya ophekiweyo ngokugqibeleleyo wobudala obuthile, ngokuzingca nangobukhazikhazi besikolo esidala. Loo vibe uqhelekile kwiindawo zokuhlala zase-Ischian- nangona kule ntwasahlobo, esi siqithi sihloniphekileyo iMezzatore Hotel & Spa siphinde sabuyiselwa liqela elingemva kweholide yasePellicano eTuscany, mhlawumbi ukwandisa ukufika kwale mihla, eyothathelwa izithsaba phakathi kubunewunewu base-Italiya.

Ukuhonjiswa kukaRegina Isabella kukwicala elisemthethweni, kodwa abasebenzi bashushu, kwaye indawo yokutyela eneenkwenkwezi eMichelin, i-Indaco, ikhethekile. Kukho i-spa yezonyango egxile kunyango lodaka olushushu lwe-bioactive, ipuli yamanzi ashushu anetyuwa, kunye nolwandle oluncinci. Kodwa nditsaleleke kwiziteketiso ezimbini ezinezinyuko zentsimbi eziya emanzini. Kwinqanaba elingaphantsi kwesinye sezinyuko, ndiye ndama kancinci, ndaya kufika emadolweni kwiMeditera epholileyo, ilanga lishushu emagxeni am. Amanzi ayecacile kwaye enzulu. Iqoqo leentlanzi ezincinci zesilivere zehla zaya kuhlola iinyawo zam. Ndacinga ngombono kumdlalo weTV woMhlobo wam oqaqambileyo apho uLenù esiya elwandle okokuqala, okokuqala ejija uvalo kwaye emva koko edada, engenabunzima kwaye euphoric, njengoko ikhamera iphakama ukuyibonisa ivela phezulu, iyodwa luhlaza.

Ndaziphosa elunxwemeni, ndaya kude neefestile zaselwandle, iivenkile ezithengisa iimpahla ezimhlophe ezinokunxitywa kuphela ngabantu baseYurophu, izikhephe kwiankile, iintaba eziluhlaza ezazifihla ubushushu obungalawulekiyo kunye nongazinzi. Ndakuqonda kum ukonwaba kukaLenù ngokuba mncinci kwaye ndedwa kwinto enkulu kakhulu. Ndinikezele kwimincili - ukuba sesichengeni - sokuba kwindawo ezele ubunzima kunye nokwahlulahlula okungalawulekiyo, kwaye kungamkelwa njalo.

Umgca weorenji

Isibini esigqibeleleyo

Yahlula iveki phakathi kweNaples kunye neIschia ngenqanaba elonwabisayo ledolophu kunye nolwandle.

Ukufika apho

Ungabhabha kwisikhululo senqwelomoya samazwe aphesheya ngeendawo ezininzi eziphambili zaseYurophu. Ukusuka kwidolophu yesikhephe saseMolo Beverello kukho iindlela ezininzi zokuhamba ngenqanawa ukuya eIschia suku ngalunye. Uhambo luthatha iyure.

ENaples

Ndahlala kwa Grand Hotel Parker kaThixo (kabini ukusuka kwi- $ 343) , ihotele esesikweni kodwa enobubele enamagumbi angama-79 ebekwe endulini kwindawo yaseNaples yaseChiaia. Bhukisha igumbi okanye igumbi le-Deluxe yeembono ezintle zesixeko, i-Bay yaseNaples, kunye nesiqithi saseCapri. Isidlo sasemini, zama ISpiedo d'Oro Trattoria (52 ngePasquale Scura; 39-081-552-6111; amatikiti $ 4- $ 9) , umngxuma wodonga kwiziko lembali laseNaples, apho umnini ayila imenyu yentliziyo kunye nokutshintsha kwemihla ngemihla ngamaxabiso asezantsi ngokumangalisayo. Ndiyithandile i-ricotta-ene-sfogliatelle, i-rum babas, kunye ne-chocolate emnyama IScururchio , i-confectioner yezinto ezikhethekileyo zasekuhlaleni ukusukela ngo-1905. Ngokuhlwa, yiya ku 50 Kalò (ii-pizza $ 6- $ 11) , i-pizzeria kwisithili seMergellina esisebenza ngeepayi eziqhekeziweyo ezibalaseleyo, ezenziwe kusetyenziswa izithako ezisemgangathweni ophezulu, nenani elifanelekileyo lesimo sengqondo saseNeapolitan.

Ischia

Ndiyithandile indibaniselwano yobukhazikhazi obudala be-Hollywood kunye neMeditera e Ihotele ka-Queen Isabella (kabini ukusuka kwi- $ 215) , ihotele yasemanzini ye-genteel kunxweme oluxakekileyo lwase-Ischia. Indawo yayo yokutyela eneenkwenkwezi, Indigo , Ikhonza amamenyu amahle okutya kwaselwandle kwaye inemibono yolwandle. Ungaphoswa sisitya Irestyu yaseCasa Celestino (engena nge- $ 15- $ 29) , kwithambeka elibheke kwidolophu yaseIschian iSant'Angelo, apho ukutya kwaselwandle, umvundla kunye nepasta zidityaniswe newayini emhlophe evela kulo mmandla.

Umsebenzi woKhenketho

Uhambo lwam lusekwe nguMatteo Della Grazia, ilungu le-A-List, i-Travel + Leisure yokuqokelela abacebisi abaphambili behlabathi. UDella Grazia kunye nenkosikazi yakhe, uDaniela, bayila iindlela zabucala kwilizwe liphela e Fumanisa i-Italiyane yakho (Iintsuku ezisixhenxe ezisemazantsi e-Italiya ukusuka kwi- $ 1,880) .