Ukuqala kwam ukudibana nosilarha waseBerkshires uJeremy Stanton, wandibuza ukuba ndifuna ihagu enomdla na. Uyazi, i-rootin ', tootin', ukuzingela amakhowa. Ndiyintombazana engumJuda, ndikhuliswe nge-kosher, ukusuka kwidolophu yaseNew Jersey. Andizange ndiyazi nantoni na ngeehagu, ngakumbi ukuba zinomdla. Kodwa umyeni wam kunye nam sasibamba ihagu egcadiweyo kunye nabahlobo babo kwikhaya labo laseConnecticut, kwaye ihagu enomdla yayilungile. Aba bahlobo yayisisikolo esidala saseCzech, kwaye ngaphambi kokuba azi, uStanton wayenganikezeli ihagu enomdla kuphela kodwa wayenikwa iiresiphi ezicokisekileyo-kuphela ngesiNgesi-endandizifumanele izinto ezinokwenziwa ngamalungu ehagu, kunye nolusu , kunye neenyawo. Khange nditye kakhulu kuloo roast yehagu, kodwa umphathi wayo wenza umbono. Kwiminyaka embalwa kamva, xa uStanton evula iMarike yenyama eGreat Barrington, eMassachusetts, ndabona ukuba lifikile ixesha elibalulekileyo kwindalo yeBerkshires.

I-Berkshires kudala iyindawo yenkcubeko, ewe. I-Tanglewood, ikhaya lasehlotyeni laseLenox leBoston Symphony Orchestra, ibonelela ngomkhondo ovela eShostakovich ukuya kuJames Taylor. Ukuqhuba udlule kula masango adumileyo emva kwemini ehlotyeni, kunokwenzeka ukuba uve u-Yo-Yo Ma okanye u-Joshua Bell ephinda ukuziqhelanisa nefestile yemoto yakho evulekileyo. Imbali yoMthendeleko woMdaniso kaJacob's Pillow Dance yimizuzu engama-30 empuma eBucket. Eminye yemidlalo yeqonga ebalaseleyo kweli lizwe inokufumaneka kwiWilliamstown Theatre Festival-apho kuhlala khona uPatricia Clarkson, Sam Rockwell, kunye noBlythe Danner. Lo mmandla unembali ebalulekileyo yoncwadi: U-Edith Wharton uthathele ingqalelo iNtaba, eLenox, ikhaya lakhe lokuqala lokwenyani; Wabhala apho Indlu yoVuyo kwaye wamkela umhlobo wakhe olungileyo uHenry James. Kwixesha elizayo, iiBerkshires zabona uninzi lwabantwana abadumileyo ngeminyaka yoo-1960; Ngabo nabuphi na ubusuku, ungeva uBob Dylan, uArlo Guthrie, okanye uJoan Baez besenza umculo e-Dream Away Lodge — umlingo, indawo ekulula ukuyifumana, indawo yokutyela, kunye nomculo odibeneyo e-Becket, ngo-Okthobha Ihlathi le-Mountain State, apho izidlo ngoku zibhadula kwi-labyrinth yokucamngca kweentyatyambo zasendle, ii-cocktails ngesandla.

Le mbali yahlukeneyo inokufunyanwa-kwaye ive-ekuzinikeleni ekuthandeni koluntu kwezobugcisa, kunye nakwisitayile sendawo, indawo yayo yasekhaya, umoya we-neo-bohemian. Kodwa uhlobo olwahlukileyo lokuthanda ihlabathi luye lwavela kutshanje, luboniswe liqela elitsha eliqulathe ukufakelwa ezidolophini kunye nabemi baseBerkshires, bonke abo benze ukhetho lokuphila kunye nokukhuthaza ubomi obunobunkunkqele, nobasemaphandleni.

KwiiBerkshires — ingxondorha, induli eneenduli ezisuka kwintshona yeMassachusetts iye kumda waseConnecticut onqunyulwa ziindlela zelizwe ezinamajikojiko nezineelali ezintle — ungayifumana indlela ngokulandela ukutya. UMatthew Rubiner, owavula iRubiner's Cheesemongers & Grocers ngo-2004 kwindawo eyayisakuba yibhanki kwiSitalato iMain eGreat Barrington, wayilandela emva koko wenziwa yiRubi's Café, waba ngowokuqala kule ndawo ukudala ukuthengisa okuqaqambileyo, okuphezulu. Yayala umhlobo owaye wazulazula xa ivenkile ivula okokuqala ukuba anditsalele umnxeba, ngokusebenza ngamandla. Ndiziva ngathi ndiseFauchon, utshilo, ebhekisa kuloo mecca yaseParis yazo zonke izinto zokupheka. Kwaye, iRubiner's yiparadesi yegourmet, kwaye uRubiner ngokwakhe, imbongi ephumelele itshizi. Zili-125 iitshizi zobugcisa eziboniswe ngeenkcazo ezifana nale, yeAzeitão: Igubu elincinci lesityebi, elishinyeneyo, maxa wambi elibaleka itshizi yobisi lwegusha eluhlaza ekroliweyo yohlobo lwe ‘Serra (intaba)’ yasePortugal esemazantsi. Iigusha kwaye zikhohlisa. Sikwixesha lokudibana okugqithisileyo, utshilo uRubiner. Umthengi oleleyo unolwazi olunzulu ngokumangalisayo. Kwaye baninzi abantu abapholileyo, abancinci, abanamandla abafuna ukuba ngoosilarha kunye noshizi. Oku kusenokwenzeka ukuba kuya kufikelela kumhlaba wokutya okwenziweyo, kwimveliso nakwimveliso. Hayi nje abapheki ziinkwenkwezi ngoku.

IiBerkshires zinomtsalane kanye kwaba bantu batsha-abo ngebeye kwishishini okanye kwezomthetho okanye kwintengiso kumashumi eminyaka edlulileyo kodwa, endaweni yoko, bakhe ubomi kufutshane nomhlaba. Mhlawumbi sisiphumo sokubukela abazali babo besebenza nzima kakhulu kwaye bengazonwabisi iziqhamo zemisebenzi yabo-kodwa nokuba kunjalo, bayichaze ngempumelelo impumelelo yabo. Ixesha nosapho kunye nabahlobo, iziyolo zasekhaya: le ayisiyi-1980's-gluttony kodwa yinto eyahlukileyo ngokupheleleyo. Olu hlobo lweBerkshire -e lunomdla wokufunda kunye nokonga, kunye nokubuyisela. Veki nganye kwitafile yoluntu eRubi's Café, amafama endawo — umntakwabo Stanton uSean, oqhuba iBarber's Blue Hill Farm eGreat Barrington, phakathi kwabo — thelekisa amanqaku ngesidlo sakusasa malunga nento ekwidokethi kwindawo yokuxhela kunye nexabiso imifuno. I-Hay sisifundo esithandwayo, utshilo uRubiner. U-Erhard Wendt, ongumnini we Williamsville Inn, uyaziwa njengengcali yokufuna ukutya. Yena (kwaye nguye yedwa) uyazi apho iirampu zakhe zikhona, kwaye uRubiner uthengisa ibhotolo yakhe. UJeremy Stanton ubeke iindawo ezintle ze-morels, iiklasi zokubamba intshayelelo kunye nokwenza isoseji ephambili, ukukhetha i-pickling, kunye nokuqhekeka kwe-hog, kwaye uthumela iiresiphi zekhasethi kunye nehagu eyosiweyo yobisi kuluhlu lwakhe lokuposa lwama-500. ubhale wathi: Silapha kunye kuba sinqwenela ukuba njalo. Sisonke sibeke i-250,000 yeedola ngqo kumafama enyama asekhaya kunye nesixa esilinganayo sokutya okumnandi ngqo kwizisu zethu. UMark Firth, uRubiner abhekisa kuye njengomnye wabapheki abatsha besikolo esidala, ababedla ngokuba neendawo zokutyela eziyimpumelelo eBrooklyn, kubandakanya noMarlow & Daughters. Ndiza kuhamba emva naphambili, uyandixelela, phakathi kwefama yam apha phezulu kunye neeresityu zam ezantsi phaya, kwaye ndaye ndabona ukuba andifuni nyani ukukhulisa izilwanyana apha, ndibuyele kwisiphithiphithi. UFirth utyibilikisiwe kwiBerkshires kunye nenkosikazi yakhe nabantwana abancinci, kwaye kutshanje uvule iBell & Anchor, indawo yokutyela enezihlalo ezingama-60 ayichazayo njengoko siyiphakamisa, siyayibulala, uyayitya.

Ndiyagula ngentetho ethi 'fama ukuya etafileni,' utshilo uRubiner. Ndiyathetha, yintoni enye ekufuneka yenziwe? Ukulandela umkhondo wokutya kukhokelela nzulu emhlabeni kunye newebhu entsonkothileyo yabantu abayinyamekelayo. Emva kokumisa ngokukhawuleza kwivenkile yaseSouthfield enomtsalane, indawo yokutyela / indawo yokutyela / indawo yokubhaka ethengisa izinto ozithandayo ezifana neShirl's gelato kunye nomsebenzi wegcisa lendawo, undithatha wehle ngendlela emdaka eya eRawson Brook Farm, apho malunga nama-40 okusenga iibhokhwe nganye evelisa iilitha ezintathu yobisi ngosuku ekuphakameni kwexesha. Oku malunga nobuchwephesha obusezantsi bokusebenza obukhoyo, utshilo uRubiner. Ewe, iibhokhwe ziyazula, akukho mphefumlo unokubonwa, ifriji igcwele i-Monterey chèvre eveliswa yifama, kwaye rhoqo umntu uyema athenge. Kodwa ixesha elide yayingu Stanton, unosilarha, owayehambisa itshizi yebhokhwe esandula ukwenziwa kuyo yonke indawo ngeveki, ukusuka eOld Mill, eSouth Egremont, yonke indlela eya eMezze, eWilliamstown, eqhuba ngokulula ikhulu leemayile. Kwaye usahambahamba, ngaphandle kokuqhuba ishishini lakhe elitsha eliqhuba kakuhle. Ngoba? Ngenxa yeso sizathu sokuba ndiqhube ndiye eChatham, eNew York, kabini ngeveki ndiyokulanda isonka sam, utshilo uRubiner, ebhekisa kubudlelwane phakathi kwaba bathengisi kunye nabathengisi. Andiyi kuphila ngaphandle kwayo.

Iiyure ezintathu ukusuka eManhattan kwaye ezimbini ezinesiqingatha ukusuka eBoston, iGreat Barrington ayisiyonto yeedolophu, utshilo umbhali wencwadi yokupheka, iblogger yokutya- kunye nomntu owayekhetha idolophu-uAlana Chernila, osebenza kakhulu ngeentsasa zangoMgqibelo kwimarike yamafama ethengisa imveliso yamaNdiya. I-Line Farm, enye yeefama zokuqala zokuxhaswa kwezolimo kwilizwe. Ayisoze ifunxwe sisixeko. Ayisayi kuba phantsi kwayo. Mhlawumbi ngenxa yesi sizathu, idolophu kunye nemimandla eyingqongileyo ikhuthaza ngokulula ukuba sibe nakho ukuhlala apha iingcinga phakathi kweedolophu ezityeleleyo. Kukhulu nje ngokwaneleyo ukuziva ngathi ngekhe indala ngokukhawuleza, kodwa igcina ingqondo yedolophu encinci yokwazi nokwaziwa. Le fantasy-yeyam, ndiya kuyivuma-ayibandakanyi nje ukucocwa kwenkalakahla yam, ukubanako ukwahlula ithambeka kwinkwenkwezana, kodwa ikwakhona nendlela yokubetha, njengoko uChernila esenza njalo, igranola ukusuka ekuqaleni (makungaziwa ukuba wenzeni ngesiqingatha sentloko yehagu; xa uChernila eyifumene, wenza ihedisi).

Uluhlu lweendawo zokuhlala ezinokubonelelwa yiBerkshires ziyamangalisa. Ngo-Epreli ka-2011, uRichard noClare Proctor, isibini esitshatileyo sase-Bhritane, baqala ukulungiswa kwinto eyayikhe yane-motel esecaleni kwendlela, i-Briarcliff, kwi-Monument Mountain, bayiguqula yaba yindawo esecaleni, etofotofo, e-design-centric, kwaye bonwabile ngokupheleleyo- hayi khankanya ixabiso elifanelekileyo-ibala. Basasebenza kumhlaba. IiMotels kulapho uya kubulawa khona, okanye uye kulala ngesondo iiyure ezimbalwa emva kwemini, utshilo uClare, ebhekisa kwingcinga yenkcubeko yeendawo ezinjalo, kodwa besidiniwe zii-B & B's. Sasihlala kwiindawo ezininzi kwaye sasingaziva sinyanzelekile ukuba sithethe nabantu abalishumi elinesihlanu esingabaziyo ngentsimbi yeshumi kusasa.

I-B & B engangqinelani nemeko yeProjekhthi iya kuba yiStonover Farm-ephethwe nguTom Werman, owayengumvelisi werekhodi yensimbi enzima, kunye nenkosikazi yakhe, uSuky, eyenze ipropathi e-serene kunye ne-airy eLenox, kumgama wokuhamba I-Tanglewood, igcwaliswe ngegalari yobugcisa kunye negumbi lokufundela elinegumbi elinye elisetyenziswa ngoku njengendwendwe. Kwaye nangona kungoku nje, ubuncinci basezilalini bunokuba luphawu lweeBerkshires ezintsha, ubuhle kunye nokunethezeka okuninzi eW Wheatleigh, ihotele entle yelizwe, kunye nentliziyo, umphefumlo, kunye nembali yalo mmandla kubonisiwe ngokupheleleyo eBlantyre, zombini nakwiLenox. Ukuba bendinobutyebi, i-eccentric, umakazi othandekayo, kulapho ndingathanda ukuba aphile khona. Umnini u-Ann Fitzpatrick Brown udale indawo efudumeleyo kunye ne-cosseting kangangokuba, ukuhlala apho, ndoyiswe kukungonwabi, uyolo olumnandi lokuphumla, njengenjana efumana indawo etyholweni elangeni. Kwakukho iincwadi kunye neemagazini ukwanelisa yonke into oyithandayo kunye neminqweno, ukusuka eDickens kuye Molo! Kwiholo enkulu ye-manse ye-1902, abasebenzi bathumela iingcebiso ngemisebenzi yosuku: Ukudlala umdlalo wechess kwigumbi lomculo. Ukuphumla kwi-sauna kwiPotting Shed. Ukuthatha uhambo kwiBlantyre. Ukuqala ukhenketho olukhokelwayo lwesisele esingaqhelekanga sewayini kunye noLuc Chevalier, umhle maître d ’nowayesakuba ngusomeli owayefudukela eBlantyre esuka kwisikhundla sakhe sexesha elide eLutèce eNew York. Indlu igcwele ubuncwane obunjalo-iintloko zerali ye-caribou yaseCanada egama linguBob kunye neelk ebizwa nguJames; Imifanekiso yamantombazana, uBrown ongasekhoyo, oyintanda yengqolowa ethandekayo, enxibe iimpahla zonke zika-Elizabethan; umzobo womzukulwana kaHoover okhokela itakane legusha. UBrown, osapho lwakhe lunabanini beBlantyre kangangeminyaka engama-32, ungumlondolozi wexesha elithile lemilingo, kodwa-ke, kwaye ukuthanda kwakhe kukugcina. Esinye sezizathu zokuba abantu babuye kukuba ihlala ifana, uyandixelela. Ngenye imini, saba nengxaki kwiPaterson Suite ngesitishi senqanawa ebhafini. Undwendwe lwabuya emva kweminyaka labuza, 'Kwenzeke ntoni ngesele?'

Njengokuzama ukutshona kwindawo yokukhulisa yaseBlantyre kwaye ungaze ushiye, ngaphaya nje eStbrbridge yi-yin kwi-yang ye-Blantyre: isakhiwo esingenakulindeleka, esikhangeleka njengeziko, isakhiwo esikhulu sezitena esixhomeke phezulu ngaphezulu kwechibi le-Stockbridge Bowl, iZiko laseKripalu I-Yoga kunye neMpilo-apho kwenzeka khona uhlobo lokondla olwahluke ngokupheleleyo. Njengokuba kunjalo kwizinto ezininzi eBerkshire, iKripalu iyinyani, inzima, i-quirky, i-storied, kwaye ayifani nayiphi na enye indawo. Isibheno sayo asikho ngokukhawuleza okanye ngokukhawuleza. Kuthatha ixesha ukufumanisa ubuhle be-kayaking yasekuseni ekhokelwayo kwi-Stockbridge Bowl, okanye uluhlu lweenkqubo, ukusuka kolona phando luphakathi (Inqanaba loNxibelelwano lweZilwanyana zoMoya: Zithini Izilwanyana Zethu Ngokwenene). Iziko likaStephen Cope lokuPhila ngokuNgaqhelekanga, nelisebenza kwiSebe lezoKhuselo elixhaswa ngezimali ngeziphumo zeyoga kubasebenzi bezomkhosi abanengxaki yoxinzelelo lwasemva koxinzelelo). Ngenye ingokuhlwa, ndabhukisha unyango lwasemva kwesidlo sangokuhlwa olubizwa ngokuba yiayurvedic shirodhara kwiziko lobuGcisa lokuPhulukisa. Kwakhethwa ioyile ngokukodwa eyam dosha, okanye uburharha emzimbeni. Ngaba Uxhalabile? Ungqongwe? Akunakuphumla? Uyoyika? Ukucatshukiswa yingxolo enkulu? Kupholile okanye kuyabanda? Jonga, jonga, jonga. Kwigumbi elincinci nelithuleyo, ingcali egama linguNikki yandityibilikisa iitawuli, emva koko yaqalisa ukugalela umlambo weoyile eshushu ngokuthe chu kumbindi webunzi lam, iliso lam lesithathu. Umculo — iingoma zokucamngca — zazalisa umoya, ziphindaphinda, ziphindaphindwa. Imvakalelo, ekuqaleni, yayiphantse inganyamezeleki. Kodwa ke into ethile ngaphakathi kwam yaqala ukuphuka, ukuphumla. Emva kweyure apho ndilahlekelwe lixesha lonke, ndiyekile ukuzibuza ukuba ndingaze ndiyihlambe njani ioyile ezinweleni zam, kwaye ndinuke ngokungafunekiyo ngesame, ndaphindela kwigumbi lam leemonki, ndiziva ndinqabile kwaye ndinzulu yoxolo. Ndaye ndema phambi kwebwecwe elibhalwe ikowuti ebhalwe Mahatma Gandhi. Kubonakala ngathi kufikelela kuyo yonke into ethethwa ngobomi baseBerkshires kunye nomhobe wayo wobukroti wokuphila ubomi obunyanisekileyo, obuzinzileyo: Ulonwabo kuxa ucinga, into oyithethayo, kunye nento oyenzayo ihambelana. Ndicinga ukuba oosilarha, abathengisi beshizi, amafama, kunye namagcisa kunye namagcisa enza iiBerkshires zanamhlanje angavuma.

Hlala

IBlantyre 16 iBlantyre Rd., ILenox; blinyre.com . $$$$

IBriarcliff Motel I-506 Stockbridge Rd., IGreat Barrington; nguyoube.biz . $

Stonover Ifama 169 Undermountain Rd., Lenox; ystinkcinds.com . $$$

I-Wheatleigh I-11 Hawthorne Rd., ILenox; ingqiniba.com . $$$$

Williamsville Inn 286 iGreat Barrington Rd., West Stockbridge; buyinkcube.com . $$

Yitya

Intsimbi kunye ne-Anchor 178 Main St., Great Barrington; 413 / 528-5050. $$

Iphupha ekude Lodge 1342 County Rd., Becket; enkcube.com . $$

Cubi yaseRubi 264 Main St., Great Barrington; rubiners.com . $

Yenza

Ifama yaseIndiya I-57 Jug End Rd., EMzantsi Egremont; indinlinefarm.com .

Umthendeleko woMdaniso kaJacob Pillow 358 George Carter Rd., Becket; jacobspillow.org .

IZiko leKripalu leYoga kunye neMpilo I-57 Interlaken Rd., IStockbridge; kripalu.org .

IZiko lobuGcisa beClark 225 eMzantsi St., eWilliamstown; clarkart.edu .

IINKCUKACHA MoCA 87 iMarshall St., North Adams; yinyama.org .

IRawson Brook Ifama 185 ENew Marlboro Rd., EMonterey; 413 / 528-2138.

I-Tanglewood I-297 eNtshona St., iLenox; ngokhuni.org .

UMnyhadala weTheatre yaseWilliamstown 1000 Main St, Williamstown; wtfsivisa.org .

Ivenkile

Intengiso yenyama I-389 Stockbridge Rd., IGreat Barrington; lusiba.biz .

I-Rubiner's Cheesemongers & Grocers 264 Main St., Great Barrington; rubiners.com .

Ivenkile yaseSouthfield 163 iNorfolk Rd., Southfield; mzantsiweb.com .

Iihotele

$ Ngaphantsi kwama- $ 200
$$ $ 200 ukuya kuma-350 eedola
$$$ $ 350 ukuya kuma-500 eedola
$$$$ $ 500 ukuya kwi- $ 1,000
$$$$$ Ngaphezulu kwe- $ 1,000

Iindawo zokutyela

$ Ngaphantsi kwama- $ 25
$$ $ 25 ukuya kwi-75
$$$ $ 75 ukuya kwi-150
$$$$ Ngaphezulu kwe- $ 150

IZiko leKripalu leYoga kunye neMpilo

Funda indlela yokucamngca kule yoga nakwiziko lezempilo eBerkshires ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo zokubuyela umva kunye neenkqubo zokuhlaziya. Njengokuba kunjalo kwizinto ezininzi eBerkshire, iKripalu iyinyani, inzima, i-quirky, i-storied, kwaye ayifani nayiphi na enye indawo. Isibheno sayo asikho ngokukhawuleza okanye ngokukhawuleza. Kuthatha ixesha ukufumanisa ubuhle be-kayaking yasekuseni ekhokelwayo kwi-Stockbridge Bowl, okanye uluhlu lweenkqubo, ukusuka kolona phando luphakathi (Inqanaba loNxibelelwano lweZilwanyana zoMoya: Zithini Izilwanyana Zethu Ngokwenene). Iziko likaStephen Cope lokuPhila ngokuNgaqhelekanga, nelisebenza kwiSebe lezoKhuselo elixhaswa ngezimali ngeziphumo zeyoga kubasebenzi bezomkhosi abanengxaki yoxinzelelo lwasemva koxinzelelo).

YENKONZO MoCA

Imyuziyam yilali encinci esasazeke ngaphezulu kweehektare ezili-13, nezakhiwo ezingama-26 ezinikezelwe kubugcisa, umculo, umdaniso, ifilimu kunye nemidlalo yeqonga. Eli ziko linokubonisa imiboniso emikhulu kakhulu kwaye lelona ziko likhulu lezobugcisa obubonwayo nobokudlala kweli lizwe. Kule minyaka ingama-25 izayo, ukubuyela emva kweSol LeWitt kuya kujongwa, enye indawo yokutsala le ndawo ikude neBerkshire.

IBlantyre

Stonover Ifama

Iphethwe nguTom Werman, owayesakuba ngumvelisi werekhodi yentsimbi enzima, yena kunye nenkosikazi yakhe, uSuky, eyenze ipropathi e-Lenox, ekumgama wokuhamba iTanglewood, egcwaliswe ngegalari yobugcisa kunye negumbi lesikolo elinye njengendwendwe yeendwendwe.

I-Wheatleigh

Nangona okwangoku, ubuncinci basemaphandleni bunokuba luphawu lweBerkshires entsha, ubuhle kunye nokunethezeka okuninzi eW Wheatleigh, ihotele entle enezindlu zelizwe.

Ivenkile yaseSouthfield

Le ndawo inye yokugcina ivenkile ngokubanzi kunye nesitishi segesi ngoku sithengisa ukutya kwasekuhlaleni — kubandakanya ii-croissants, iipie, kunye nesilayiti esitshintshayo sejelatos ezenziwe endlwini ezinje ngealmond cocond kunye necherry emnyama yasendle.