Iparadesi ye-vales-enxibe iivensi kunye namachibi afana negem, iValsesia eleleyo ayinakususwa ngakumbi kumoya osuka kufutshane naseMilan. Kuphela sisandi seemoto zemidlalo ezithwele i-fashion maven ukuya nokubuya esixekweni esikhulu, kunye namaxesha ngamaxesha woboya obumanzi kwimpepho ephakamisa unxibelelwano olusondeleyo. I-Valsesia, i-Itali kunye nelizwe le-cashmere, liyifashoni yaseMilanese ukuba liliphi ilizwe laseBordeaux kwiwayini. Kwizizukulwana ngezizukulwana, amatye okusila afihliweyo kummandla weentlambo zeAlpine avelise ezinye zewulu zelona hlabathi zilungileyo & apos, kubandakanya eyona nto intle kakhulu yekheshi. Abathengi beGucci, iHermès kunye neChanel benza uhambo apha ukuze bathenge amalaphu kunye nemisonto yengqokelela yabo. Umyili waseMelika u-Rebecca Moses waya kwelinye inyathelo: ekhangela i-cashmere egqibeleleyo yengqokelela yakhe yowe-1991, wadibana watshata nomnini wesigayo kunye nommi wase Valsesia ongumthonyama uGiacomo Festa Bianchet. Yayingumcimbi wexesha ngaphambi kokuba ayivale istudiyo sakhe saseNew York afudukele kula manzi asemantla.
'Ndathi ndakuxelela abahlobo bam ukuba ndiyahamba eNew York ndisiya kwinduli ezolileyo zaseValsesia, bacinga ukuba ndiphambene!' Utsho uMoses egigitheka. Kodwa undwendwelo kwigumbi lakhe lokubonisa elitsha laseMilan kwaye niya kuqiniseka ukuba impambano ayidlalanga kwisigqibo sakhe. Ukusuka kwizikhafu ezibutofotofo ukuya kwii-cardigans ezenziwe ngombala ukuya kwizikhuselo ezivakalayo, yonke into oyichukumisayo intle kakhulu. 'ICashmere yeyona fiber isulungekileyo neyona intle kangaka kule nkulungwane, utshilo uMoses. 'Uboya, isilika, kunye nomqhaphu azithelekisi. Ukuba ikhesmere isetyenziswa ngendlela eyiyo inokunxitywa unyaka wonke. Ukukhanya ehlotyeni kwaye kungqengqiwe ebusika. Aluziva lunzima njengoboya; Ihlala ithambile kwaye inomdla ngokuchasene nolusu. Andimazi umntu ongayithandiyo icashmere. '
Ngubani owenzayo? Kwaye ukuba awuthandi uninzi lwabantu, ngekhe ube ngoyena mntu uphikisayo ngaphandle kwewadi yakho ngeempahla ezimbalwa. Kwaye akukho nzima njengoko kunokuba kubonakala ngathi. Iidolophu ezingqonge iMoses kunye neapos eyamkelweyo kwilali esezintabeni iQuarona, kwimizuzu nje engama-90 kumntla-ntshona weMilan, zinika ixabiso elithandekayo kwisithandwa secashmere. Ndiyathanda ukuthi ndihlala kwiLat Fabric. Ndixelela abahlobo bam ukuba xa betyelele singathengisa. Abakholelwa ukuba akukho nto ilapha phezulu. Emva koko ndibasa kwi Ivenkile , kwaye bayamangaliswa ngamaqhekeza amangalisayo afumanekayo. '
Inkqubo ye- iivenkile , okanye iivenkile zomzi-mveliso, ziliphupha lokuthenga. Kwaye kunokwenzeka ukuba uthenge iingubo ze-cashmere, iishawuli, izikhafu, iijezi, amalaphu, nokuninzi, ngezaphulelo (ezingama-20 ukuya kuma-50 epesenti). Njengazo zonke iivenkile, ziphi iiapos ezikhoyo ngokuxhomekeke kwinto eveliswe ngumzi mveliso ngelo xesha lonyaka kwaye zeziphi iziqwenga ekufuneka zitshintshiwe. Unokuba nethamsanqa lokukhubeka kwingubo ye-cashmere engafezekanga okanye idyasi ethengiswa kuphela kwindawo yokuphuma. iivenkile yecashmere- uAgnona kunye noLoro Piana- balungile kufutshane nendlu kaMoses. Indawo yokuthengisa iAgnona & apos; kwidolophu yaseBorgosesia, ikumhlaba womzi-mveliso ngokwawo, kwinduli ejonge uMlambo iSesia. Indawo yokusila ikhupha ivumba elityhafileyo nelithandekayo loboya obumanzi, kodwa incwadi yoku-odola, efundeka njengo-Who & apos; s Ngubani wefashoni, uthembisa into entle ngakumbi. Ukudibanisa itekhnoloji yobudala besithuba kunye nezizukulwane zokwazi, i-Agnona iguqula elona banga liphezulu le-cashmere ekrwada ekhoyo- iibhali ezinkulu ezinoboya beebhokhwe ezivela kwi-Inner Mongolia- kwilaphu eliqaqambileyo. UMoses ngokwakhe ungumlandeli kunye nomthengi: 'Oku mhlawumbi yenye yezona mveliso zibalaseleyo kwilizwe. Sisebenza kunye ngokusondeleyo kakhulu ekuphuhliseni izixhobo endinokuyila ngazo. I-Agnona yasekwa kumashumi amahlanu kwaye inovimba wogcino olumangalisayo- i-alpaca, i-cashmere, uboya obunobuso obuphindwe kabini- obenzelwe ngokukodwa izindlu ezifana neBalmain ne Chanel. Ungazifunda kwaye uzame ukwakha kwiimpawu zoyilo oluhle lwakudala. ' Okanye ukuba awunamabhongo ungangxami kwaye uxhomekeke komnye umntu ngeenqwelomoya, unokuzingela evenkileni ngengubo emnandi yobukhulu benkosi eyenziwe nge-cashmere emsulwa (malunga ne- $ 1,000) okanye ukuphoswa kwecashmere, ialpaca, kunye uboya (ngaphantsi kwe- $ 100). Umzi-mveliso waseAgnona uvelisa neebhatyi ezilungele ukunxitywa, iijezi, iidyasi, iziketi, kwaye, okona kubaluleke kakhulu, amalaphu. Kutshanje, umhlobo uye watyelela kwaye wathenga iiyadi neeyadi zelaphu le-cashmere. Wayenomthungi ekhaya eyenzela iisuti zomyeni wakhe, utshilo uMoses.
Emazantsi entlambo, iindonga zawo ziluhlaza kunye namadlelo kwaye zijikelezwe zizidiliya, yiQuarona, apho uMoses wayehlala nomyeni wakhe kwindlu ethe gabalala, engamashumi amahlanu. Xa ebuzwa ukuba ngaba lo mhlaba ubukekayo kwaye ubekekile unokuba ukhuthaze ii-fuchsias, imifuno, kunye neepolpies zengqokelela yakhe, uyavuma ukuba 'imibala yam iphefumlelwe yiyo yonke into endingqongileyo. Ndiyazithanda iintyatyambo kunye negadi. Sinee-hydrangea ezininzi, i-wisteria, iiroses ebomvu nepinki, igermany, ii-rhododendrons, i-azaleas. Sinemithi emikhulu yaseScotch kunye nomthi omkhulu wemephu waseMelika onamagqabi anokutshintsha umbala amaxesha angamashumi amabini apha enyakeni. '
IQARONA IKWAKHONA EKHAYA KULE Ivenkile I-Loro Piana, umzi-mveliso ogxile kwi-cashmeres emsulwa kunye noboya baseTasmania. 'Ndithenga intambo ye-cashmere eninzi kubo, utshilo uMoses. 'Usapho lolo belusebenza kumalaphu amahle nasemsukweni ukusukela ngo-1812. Uboya baseTasmania ababuvelisayo bubalasele, ngamadoda amabi kakhulu & apos; s-wear amalaphu. Phantse onke amadoda ase-Yuropa anesuti kunye neebhulukhwe ezenziwe ngayo. Ngelixa iAgnona Ivenkile Uziva kakhulu njengolwandiso lomzi-mveliso, lowo useLoro Piana unesibheno esihle se-SoHo boutique. Inkulu kakhulu, inika uluhlu olubanzi lweemveliso zecashmere- iilokhwe ezinxibe kakuhle, ezinithiweyo, iikhati zekhadi ezinje ngeebhatyi kuneejezi- ngaphakathi ngaphakathi.
Uwujonga njani umgangatho? 'Ijezi elungileyo yekheshi kufuneka ithambe xa uyichukumisa, kodwa ingathambi kangangokuba iipilisi, okuthetha ukuba ihlanjwe rhoqo. Andikho kwisikolo esikholelwa ukuba icashmere akufuneki ibenzima ukuze ifudumale, kungoko ke ndisebenzisa icashmere enye nenesibini kuyilo lwam. '
Kungothusa xa ufumanisa ukuba umakhulu wakho kunye neenkolelo zakhe zokuba neenkani zokuba akukho nto ingaphantsi kwe-ply cashmere enokuyenza yayiyenye yeentsomi ezaziswe kwilizwe lakudala. Umgangatho we fiber cashmere umiselwa kuqala ukuba uvela kweliphi na ibhokhwe. Izinwele zebhokhwe zinde kwaye zirhabaxa, kodwa i-underhair, ekhula phantsi kwengubo yangaphandle, ithambile kakhulu. Ezona zinwele zixabiso liphezulu zivela kwibhokhwe & apos; s chin, ebekelwe eyona cashmere yexabiso, njengaleyo iveliswa kwingingqi yeKashmir emantla eIndiya. Phantse zinqabile iinwele ezivela esifubeni. Iinwele zesisu zilungile, nazo, kwaye ziyafumaneka kweyona mveliso ikumgangatho ophezulu ikheshi. Izinwele eziselunxwemeni zisetyenziselwa ukuxuba okuncinci, kwaye uboya begusha obungasemva abunqweneleki kakhulu kuba buvezwe kwizinto. Kodwa ke kwenzeka ntoni kwi-cashmere njengoko isenziwa ngomsonto, wahlamba, wedayi onokwenza okanye wophule ijezi yakho. 'Ngamanye amaxesha umzi-mveliso olunge ngokwenene unokwenza umsonto ombi ubonakale ulungile,' ucacisa uMoses. 'Umgangatho awunanto yakwenza nenani leziphelo-- kukuphotha, ukufa, ukunitha kunye nokugqiba eyona nto ibaluleke kakhulu.' Kwi-Lora & Festa, umzekelo, umyeni ka-Moses & apos; mveliso ojolise kwimisonto, kukho imibala engaphezulu kwama-50 000 kwifayile- 50 iintlobo ezahlukeneyo zabantu abamnyama bodwa. Kuqhelekile ukuba umyili wefashoni angenise intwana yento, ilaphu letheyibhile ye vinyl, igqabi, ithayile yenkulungwane ye-18, athi, 'Lo ngumbala endiwufunayo!'
UKUBA wena & apos; FUNDA EMVA KWEZAKHIWO ZASEKUQALENI, ulandela umkhondo ukusuka Ivenkile ukuya Ivenkile Ndiza kukusa kufutshane nezulu njengokuba wawusenza njalo. I-Varallo, idolophu encinci kufutshane neQuarona, ibhiyozelwa ngento ephantse yenziwa njenge-cashmere: iSacro Monte, enye ye-Itali kunye neapos; eyona ndawo ihlonelwayo kunye neetempile ezingaziwayo. ISacro Monte iyilali iyonke enezindlu ezimalunga nama-30 ezincinane ezakhiwe yimifanekiso eqingqiweyo yoBomi beRenaissance. 'Iyathandeka,' utsho uMoses. 'Upopu weza kwiminyaka eyadlulayo, kwaye abantu abaninzi baya khona ngezonqulo.' Ukonwaba kohlobo lwasemhlabeni ngakumbi, ukuya eLake Orta, ngasentshona kweLake Maggiore enkulu kunye nedume ngokuhlala ixesha elide ehlotyeni kwi-chic Milanese. 'ILake Orta lilitye elinqabileyo elincinci,' utshilo uMoses. 'Bambalwa abantu- kwanamaTaliyane- bayazi ngayo, nto leyo eyenza ukuba ikhetheke ngakumbi.' Iindwendwe ezininzi ziye zabelana naye. I-Balzac ibonakalise kwiLake Orta & apos; s 'poetic and melodious fascination,' kwaye kwakukule ndawo yobuso beentaba uNeetzsche wajonga xa ebhala i-ode yakhe I-ermbermensch, yiyo loo nto wathetha iZarathustra.
Kwichibi kunye ne-apos; ulwandle olusentshona luhlala e-Orta San Giulio, apho amasundu, i-azaleas, kunye ne-oleanders zagqabhuka ngokungathandekiyo kwindawo enekhephu kwiiAlps zaseNtaliyane. Landela i-Orta & apos; izitalato ezimxinwa, ezinamatye adlulileyo kwiibhotwe zeBaroque kwaye wena & ampos; ngokuqinisekileyo uya kuphela kwisikwere esikhulu, uPiazza Mario Motta, owaziwa ekuhlaleni njenge-Il Salotto ('igumbi lokuzoba'). Kwaye ayimangalisi into-ephela kwento ebonakala ngathi iyaqhubeka apha kukusela iCampari kwaye ujonge iRivas shuttle yeendwendwe eziya ngapha nangapha kwisiqithi saseSan Giulio echibini nakwiziko leapos. 'Mna nomyeni wam sihlala sisiya eOrta ngoJuni. UAlberto Ilorini, umnini womzi-mveliso waseAgnona kunye nomhlobo osenyongweni, uza nathi. Yena noGiacomo bachitha ixesha labo elininzi emanzini.
Kulabo bangena ndlu kangangesiqingatha seyure kunye nee-apos zokuqhuba ukusuka eLake Orta, iVilla Crespi, eyakhiwe ngo-1880 ngusomashishini uBenigno Crespi, inikezela indawo entle yokubuyela kwimpilo yamaMoor, isitayile saseNtaliyane. Ihotele nganye & apos; s amagumbi ali-14 ahonjiswe kakuhle: iibhedi ezine-iipowusta, iikristale zekristale, kunye neendawo zokuhlambela ezimabhile, ezinye zine 'matrimonial' Jacuzzis. Yenza ishawl ye-cashmere ejikeleze amagxa akho kwaye uthathe uhambo lwangokuhlwa kwizitiya ezinomtsalane.
YIMA NGOKUGQIBELA KWI 'CASHMERE TRAIL' yidolophu yemizi-mveliso yaseBiella, iikhilomitha ezili-10 kumzantsi-ntshona weValsesia. Kwaye linyathelo elikhulu lokuhla ngokwendawo kunye nobuhle, kodwa into engekhoyo kuyo Isandi soMculo isibheno ngaphezulu kokulungiselela uboya obuhle kunye ne-prêt-À-porter. Ngaphandle kwedolophu, izindlu zeedrowa eziphezulu ezinje nge-Ermenegildo Zegna Bolgheri, iGuabello, kunye neLanificio Cerruti nganye inamanzi iivenkile . Nokuba abo banelungelo lokucela ukuba 'kungasekho boya' bayachukumiseka. 'Andithengi kakhulu,' utsho uMoses, 'kodwa xa ndisenza njalo, ndiye kuthenga eBiella.' Apha unokufumana yonke into ukusuka kwiijezi ezintle ezinithiweyo ukuya ekuphosweni kwe-cashmere, ukusuka kumadoda & iisuti ezifanelekileyo kumgca weNino Cerruti wabasetyhini. Hamba uthambe kwaye uphathe ityesi enkulu engenanto.
ikhabethe lokuhamba lokusinda
Umtya wecashmere cardigan
i-color-accent elula ye-cashmere V-iintamo (3-4)
Iminqwazi yebhakethi evakalayo eyomileyo (2)
ibhegi yokuhamba yesikhumba
utyikityo lwepokotho
Ifandesi yekheshi (3-4)
iflannel ephethe ibhegi
I-bias cashmere idonsa-kwi-pant-wide pant
Isiketi secashmere 'nerd'
ikhetshi yecuba lecashmere
Ukukhetha isiketi sesilika
I-sexy cashmere / iijezi zesilika (3)
Ijezi 'yeGidget' kwi-cashmere
Ibhokisi yebhotile yecashmere
Isinxibo se-satin
idyasi yobuso be-cashmere
Ingubo ye-cashmere 'ngunobhala o-sexy'
idyasi ye-cashmere engasindi
izihlangu ezihamba ngesikhumba
izihlangu zasebusuku
moccasins yesikhumba
Phakathi kotyelelo ku iivenkile Buyisela amandla akho komnye wommandla kunye neendawo eziphezulu zokupheka. Ukuba undwendwela ekwindla, ungatya ii-truffles ezimhlophe entliziyweni yakho kunye nomxholo weapos; zikhula ngobuninzi ePiedmont, emazantsi eValsesia.
Taverna dell & apos; UAntico Agnello Nge-Via Olina, eOrta San Giulio; 39-0322 / 90259; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-57. Kule taverna yendabuko, izitya ezivela kulo lonke elase-Italiya zimanyene ngumnini-mphathi kunye nolwazi olusondeleyo lwamayeza eMeditera. Indawo oyithandayo yabemi baseOrta kunye noMilanese onolwazi.
Ukuncuma Via Roma, Soriso; 39-0322 / 983-228; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-200. I-Italiyane & apos; indawo entsha yokutyela eneenkwenkwezi ezintathu e-Italy: i-turbot ye-tour-de-force kunye ne-crayfish yomlambo, izitya ze-virtuoso ze-truffles zendawo kunye nama-mushroom.
IPinocchio Ngo-147 ngeMatteotti, eBorgomanero; 39-0322 / 82273; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezili-137. Kwiminyaka engama-35 uvelwano Intsapho yaseBertinotti ilungelelanise uhlonipho olunzulu lokutya kwasePiedmontese ngovuyo ngokwaphula imithetho. I-risotto yabo yeembotyi kunye ne-sausage kunye ne-mincemeat kwintloko ebomvu ye-sauce yewayini uluhlu olude lwezinto ezizilungiselele ngokungacwangciswanga.
IAgnona Tennis Nge-9 nge-Casazza, eBorgosesia; 39-0163 / 21849; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-69. Kanye ecaleni komzi-mveliso waseAgnona; ubungekhe ufumane indawo yokutyela eqhuba ngcono yosapho.
ElamaTaliyane 27 Piazza della Libertâ, Quarona; 39-0163 / 430-147; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-74. Imozulu yesitshixo esiphantsi ifihla ukutya okuphezulu apho iintlobo zommandla we risotto, polenta, kunye nemifuno yemifuno idibana nemali ephucukileyo. I-Trout evela eValsesia & apos; imilambo yeentaba ijoyina uluhlu lwabazala bamanzi etyuwa, kubandakanya i-swordfish kunye ne-salmon carpaccio. Idume ngeseti yecashmere, le ndawo ihlala izalisa ngabaphathi abavela kwimizi-mveliso ekufutshane.
IOsteria del Muntisel 1 Via Fiume, Varallo; 39-0163 / 52155; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-57. Yonke into evela kubungcali bendabuko beValsesian NONE (umalusi kunye nesuphu yesobho seekiki kunye neseleri) kunye ubrkke (inyama yenkomo ecekeceke njengoko ingenakulinganiswa) kwiinqwelomoya ezinqabileyo ezinje ngebhokisi ebonisiweyo enamapere.
Unomatse 3 / b Ukuhamba ngeCasa del Ponte, eCarcóforo; 39-0163 / 95612; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-63. Eli qela lendoda nenkosikazi linomdla kuyo yonke into abayikhonzayo: itshizi yebhokhwe esele indala, inyama ephilileyo enempilo, imifuno yasendle kunye nemifuno- zonke eziveliswa ekuhlaleni.
- UTom mueller