Yonke imihla ndihamba ngemidiliya, utsho uGabriele da Prato, ndincoma amagqabi aluhlaza asingqongileyo. Zonke izivamvo zam ziyabandakanyeka. Ndijonge, ndiyanuka, ndiyachukumisa, ndimamele, ndiyangcamla. Ndinencoko nendalo. Ndivisisana nomhlaba.

Ukuhamba kwemidiliya asikuphela kwendlela iwayini esoteric ehambelana ngayo nomhlaba. Amaxesha ngamaxesha wayebakhuphela ngemivalo embalwa kwi-jazz trombone yakhe, nayo.

Simile endulini ePodere Còncori, isidiliya esincinci, esinebhayodynamic esime kwikona yeTuscany engaziwa kakhulu ngewayini yayo. Ngapha koko, loo ndawo ayaziwa kwaphela. Kodwa abavelisi abanjengoGabriele banokuyitshintsha loo nto, batsale abahambi abafuna ukubaleka izihlwele zikaChianti kwaye benze indlela entsha eya kummandla othandwayo.

Ngaphakathi eTuscany 's kumntla-ntshona ufikelela kulele intlambo efihliweyo ehlala yenye yezona ndawo zingasetyenziswanga e-Itali. Akukho ndawo yeklasikhi, vistas zekhalenda- akukho mihlaba inkulu kajongilanga okanye imigca yeediliya engafakwanga. Endaweni yoko, iinduli ezinamahlathi amakhulu kunye neendawo ezisemaphandleni eziluhlaza zakha icala elinye ziiApuan Alps - ezizeemabhile uMichalangelo wazilolonga ngobugcisa- kunye neApennines kwelinye ichaza iSerchio Valley.

Kuwo wonke ummandla owaziwa ngokuba yiGarfagnana, iilali eziphakathi ezipokothweni eziphakathi kwiinduli ezinamatye zilindele ukuphononongwa. Ukuthengiswa kweeveki ngeeveki ngamakhowa e-porcini, ubusi be-acacia, bunyangekile birold isalami, kunye nepasta eyenziwe ngomgubo ocoliweyo osuka kwingqolowa etyebileyo yommandla. Abenzi bewayini beBiodynamic abanjengoGabriele bathambise izidiliya zabo ngokudibana nenyanga.

Iteksi inyusa indlela ende ehamba nomthi womnquma kunye noothango lwelavenda oluhlaza kwaye indisa eRenaissance Tuscany Resort naseSpa. Ukuhlala phezu kwenduli ngaphakathi kwembali ye-Il Ciocco Estate, ihotele etshisayo kunye neendonga eziqaqambileyo, ezipinki-salmon ezivuza ngamaqoqo e-wisteria anentloko yenza ukuba kube ngathi yindlu entle yase-Italiya.

Ukusuka kwibhalkoni yam ndiyayibona idolophu yakudala yaseBarga, izakhiwo zayo ezi-Tuscan-hued - cream, ocher, rust - glowing in the sunlight, iintaba ngasemva zigutyungelwe lilifu. Bendihamba phantse iiyure ezili-17 kodwa uphahla lwedolophu oluncinci kunye neendlela ezihamba ngemikhombe, umnxeba andikwazi ukuwunqaba.

Yile ndlela ndizifumana ndibetha ngayo ukukhwela noGeorges Midleje, umphathi onobungangamsha woRenaissance, ondibeka ezantsi ukusuka eIl Ciocco kwintombazana yakhe iMini Cooper kwaye undibeka ecaleni komnyango weBarga's medieval hub nge-wave yecigar yakhe kunye nesithembiso ukubuya emva kokuba ebaleke ezimbalwa.

I-Georges inokuba ngumlandeli omkhulu wommandla. Ngexesha apho igama 'eliyinyani' liye laba yinto ecekeceke, inkcazo isabambekile kwiNtlambo yaseSerchio. Le yi ngokwenene I-Tuscany, uGeorges undixelela, ejingisa imoto encinci ejikeleze amagophe angaboniyo ngelixa kwangaxeshanye esenza umqondiso kwindawo entle kwaye egcwala uphondo elumkisa abaqhubi abaza kubakho. Ezi ntaba, incasa, mandulo Uyile Iilali . Yikona enqabileyo, yekona yokwenyani. Abantu baseGarfagnana baphila indlela yakudala.

Isibhakabhaka sivula imizuzwana emva kokuba ndidlule ePorta Reale, elinye lamasango amabini aseleyo akhokelela kwiinqaba zakudala zedolophu. Ndidlula ecaleni kwe-Via Mezzo ukuya kwindawo encinci kwaye ndilinde ilifu phantsi kwelitye kunye ne-arcade eyenziwe ngemithi eCaffé Capretz, ndicofe iCampari kunye nesoda ngelixa imvula igalela i-intshi etafileni yam kunye neflegi yase-Italiya ephaphazelayo. Kuyo yonke indlela eya eDa Aristo, iqela elincinci licula kunye nekatala ukubetha imvumi yaseMelika yakudala. Andinayo imephu kwaye andinacebo - kwaye akufuneki ukuba uzulazule kwiBarga's medieval warren yeendlela.

Ubumanzi obushiywe ngasemva yimvula buqinisa ivumba elimdaka lamatye akudala kwaye ndiphefumla nzulu kwiinkulungwane njengoko bendilandela iindlela njalo phezulu ukuya eDuomo San Cristoforo, Barga's Romanesque cathedral. Ukuma ecaleni kwecawa enjengebhotwe, kunye nengca yayo echumileyo kunye nepazza ejonge kwimiphetho eluhlaza yeApennines, uziva ngathi uku-Scottish Highlands kuneenduli zaseTuscan. Inyani ekusenokwenzeka ukuba yi-apropos enikiweyo yokuba iBarga, ngaphezulu kwesiqingatha sabemi bayo ebanga ubudlelwane bosapho eScotland, ithathwa njengeyona dolophu yaseScotland e-Itali.

Nangona idolophu ibuyela ebomini izihlandlo ezimbalwa ngonyaka xa ibamba i-jazz yasehlotyeni kunye neminyhadala ye-opera, namhlanje ndineBarga-izitrato zayo, icahedral yayo, izimvo zayo-konke kum, inqanaba labandwendweli kwiinduli zeTuscany ezingaphezulu. kunqabile, ukuba kwenzeka, amava.

Endleleni ebuyela eIl Ciocco, ndakhankanya uGeorges ukuba ndilibele ukuthenga itshizi yeParmesan. Imizuzwana kamva, ujiwuzisa imoto elunxwemeni kwaye asike ukutsha, ebiza kulapho ufumana khona okona kulungileyo parmesan kuyo yonke i-Itali! njengoko enyamalala kwivenkile engaphaya kwesitalato. Ndingena kwizithende zakhe kwaye ndimfumene sele encokola kamnandi namadoda amabini ancumileyo, angwevu emva kwekhawuntari.

Ngaphezulu kweminyaka eli-100, i-Alimentari Caproni ibibonelela ngeekhitshi zosapho lakwaBarga kwaye namhlanje, abazalwana baka-Agostino noRico bongamela imarike yase-Itali. Ngelixa uGeorges ecula iingoma zabo, abazalwana bazixakekisa nge parmesan . URico wabona ii-wedges ezimbini kwisonka esishinyeneyo saseTuscan kunye ne-drapes nganye enephepha elicekeceke le-rosy prosciutto- i-snack yeGeorges kwaye ndiyonwabele ngelixa ndikhangela iimpahla. Ndikhetha isaka elikhulu lendawo exabiso farro , ingqolowa yakudala yayiqwalaselwa njengeyona nto iphambili ekutyeni kwamaRoma, kwaye uAgostino uyagungxana nokuvalwa kwesuti ukuze kugcinwe ikhilo yam yetsizi kuhambo olubuyela eNew York.

Kwakusasa ngentsasa elandelayo ndazimisela ukuphonononga icala likaGarfagnana. Kwiminyaka yakutshanje lo mmandla uzenzele igama ngaphakathi kwintengiso yokuhamba e-Italiya, enikezela ngayo yonke into ukusuka kumanzi amhlophe e-rafting kwimilambo iSerchio kunye neLima ukuya ekuhambeni ngeferrata - indlela yentsimbi-nge-Apuan Alps. Ndikhetha ukuthatha indlela emakhaphukhaphu ukuya entlango yommandla, ukunyuka intaba iCinque Borghi, ikhilomitha eyi-10 yejaunt edibanisa iidolophana ezintlanu zakudala phakathi kwehlathi elinzulu le-chestnut kunye namadlelo aluhlaza alpine.

Ndidibana noAlice Bonini, isikhokelo sam sakusasa, eAgriturismo Pian di Fiume, indawo yokuhlala efama eqhutywa lusapho ephawula eyokuqala kwiidolophana ezintlanu. Silandela iSentieri della Controneria - umjikelo ojijekileyo weendlela ezakhe zatshiswa ziibhokhwe zikaGarfagnina kunye nabalimi ababezinyamekela - behamba ecaleni kwemilambo bekwenyuka kwindlela enamatye. Siphuma ehlathini, singena eGuzzano, indawo yesibini yamaxesha aphakathi, imvelaphi yayo ibuyele kwi-777. Ndizalisa ibhotile yam yamanzi kumthombo wamatye oxhonywe eludongeni kwisitalato esinye seGuzzano kwaye samkela iqabane le-canine egama linguJack ehamba ecaleni kwethu ngentsalela yethu yokuhamba kwehlathi.

Ngaphandle kwenja sidibana nabanye abambalwa kakhulu, nangona ihamile encinci inempawu zobomi. Iijerumani ebomvu ebomvu kunye nokuphuma kwelanga kwe-calendula ukusuka kwiitoti zeterracotta ezibekwe kwizinyuko, iingcango ezikhokelela kwizindlu zamatye zinxiba iingubo ezikhazimlayo zepeyinti, ubulembu obugqunywe zizitrato ezinamatye kubonakala kutsha kutsha. EGombereto, ndingena ngaphakathi ukuya kukroba icawe encinci yedolophu, ndingenachaphaza njengendlu kamakhulu, izitulo ezenziwe ngomthi kunye nezityalo ezinamanzi ezihombise indawo ekufuphi.

Ukuphuma kwindlela esendleleni eya eSan Gemignano, ndingabhidaniswa nedolophu eyaziwayo yaseTuscan yeenqaba, iSan Gimignano, ndibona isakhiwo setye esime ehlathini. Yi imetato , UAlice undixelela xa ndibuza. Indlu eyomileyo ye-chestnut. Kwakukho abaninzi apha. Umlilo ukhanyisiwe ngaphakathi kwaye kufuneka uvuthe kubushushu obunye iintsuku ezingama-40 ukulungiselela i-chestnuts ukuze icolwe ibe ngumgubo. Edlulileyo iPieve di Controni, eyona inkulu kwaye yeyokugqibela kwabahlanu Uyile , ingqokelela yeenyosi ihlala phakathi kwemithi yomnga kunye neentyatyambo zasendle, ubungqina besinye isitya sommandla sokutya.

IBarga Bridge, iTuscany Ityala: UGina DeCaprio Vercesi

Ukutya okutyiwa kukuzilolonga kunye nomoya wasentabeni, ndibuyela emva eBarga kwisidlo sasemini kunye noGabriele ePodere Còncori. Encumile kwaye enesikhumba, wenza umbuliso ofudumeleyo kwaye wazisa uMatteo, okhokela iqaqobana leendwendwe kwimigca yemidiliya ukuze babelane ngemithetho-siseko emva kwenkqubo yokwenza iwayini ye-biodynamic.

Ngokusekwe kwingcinga yesithandi sobulumko saseOstriya uRudolph Steiner, ezolimo ze-biodynamic zifuna ukusebenza ngokuvisisana nomhlaba. Izimvo zikaSteiner zavela phaya ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-1900, njengoko ukufama kwezamashishini kwaqala ukuthandwa. Kwiminyaka engamashumi amabini eyadlulayo, ekuphenduleni kumonakalo wendalo awayewubona kwaye njengenye into kwimveliso yeewayini kwiTuscany yonke, uGabriele wagqiba kwelokuba lixesha lokuba abuyise iwayini kwi-Serchio Valley. Wathatha umhlaba wosapho owawukhe wakhulisa imifuno ngalo lonke ixesha langaphambili Indawo yokutyela kwaye wayiguqula, watyala izidiliya kwaye wabuyisela amandla aso emva kweminyaka yoxinzelelo lwendalo.

Kule mihla, iPodere Còncori ivelisa iintlobo ezahlukeneyo, kubandakanya i-crisp Bianco, i-pino nero eqaqambileyo, kunye neerubhi ezimbini zeesyra ezibomvu, nganye isuka kwi-microclimate eyahlukileyo phakathi kwemidiliya. Ekugqibeleni, i-terroir yesidiliya, kunye nomfama osinyamekelayo, sigalela yonke ibhotile.

Ngaphakathi kwigumbi lokungcamla, kubekwe iitafile ezincinci ngokulula nangobunono kwisidlo sasemini, iiglasi zewayini ezibengezelayo kwindawo nganye, iimbiza zemifuno entsha kumaziko abo. UMichela, inkosikazi kaGabriele, omde kwaye mncinci ngomothuko weenwele ezibomvu eziqaqambileyo kunye nespunk sokutshatisa, ulungiselele isidlo sasemini esimnandi - ipasta enesosi yetomato esandula kulandelwa kukutya okunyangiweyo kunye nokukhethwa kwamasi kwiCaseficio Marovelli ekufutshane. Isizukulwane sesithathu somenzi weeshizi uRomina Marovelli usixelela nganye nganye ngelixa uGabriele ejikeleza iitafile ezinikezela ngesisa sikaPodere Còncori ophumelele amabhaso uMelograno.

Amafu eGarfagnana, eTuscany Ityala: Massimo Scarselletta / Getty Izithombe

Ndivuka kwangoko ngentsasa yam yokugqibela eGarfagnana ndicinga ngeendlela le ndawo ndingazange ndazazi ukuba zikhona de kube ziinyanga ezimbalwa ezidlulileyo zigqabhuka ngobomi, mandulo nangoku, zibonakalisa iidolophu zakudala, iintaba zayo ezirhabaxa, imilambo yayo ebalekayo. Abantu base-Serchio Valley bazibophezele ekuqhubeni inkcubeko yabo ecebileyo kwikamva, ukuqinisekisa ukuba izithethe zale ngqungquthela yaseTuscan engabonakaliyo iya kuqhubeka ikhula. Ndijonge ngaphandle ndize ndibone ingubo enkungu ethe shinyi phezu kwentlambo, igqume iBarga ngenkungu, ifihliwe kwakhona.

IPodere Concori Tuscany Ityala: UGina DeCaprio Vercesi

Uhlala phi

Elona candelo lilungileyo malunga Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Irizothi kunye ne-Spa inokuba ludibaniso lwayo olunzulu kwingingqi ejikeleze kunye nabavelisi bendawo. Iindwendwe ziyakhuthazwa ukuba ziphonononge iidolophu zakudala zeSerchio Valley, isampulu yobuchule bengingqi kunye nokungena kubuhle bendalo obuninzi beGarfagnana. Imenyu eLa Veranda, indawo yokutyela yeholide, inezitya ezininzi eziqhelekileyo kwingingqi kunye nezithako kunye neemveliso ezenziwe kufutshane. Ezi mveliso ziphila ebomini beklasi yokupheka kunye nompheki u-Andrea Manfredini, oqala ngokuzulazula ngeBarga ukuya kuthenga izithako kwaye uphele ngesidlo esimnandi saseTuscan ozilungiselele sona.

Kuphi ukutya kunye nokusela

Ukulungisa ingxaki

Ukuhla kwesitalato esincinci e-Barga, ubuso obuncinci bukroba kwi-niche eludongeni. Kubizwa a baleqa kwaye iguqulelwe njengokulahla iingxaki, ikhubalo lakudala kuthiwa lizisa ithamsanqa kwabo bafaka iminwe yabo emehlweni nasemlonyeni. Ngaphandle kwayo, intlawulo yemveli yeGarfagnana wakhonza kuyo trattoria enegama layo iya kukunceda ushiye iingxaki zakho.

Imveliso yobisi yeMarovelli

Utatomkhulu kaRomina Marovelli waqala ukwenza itshizi yokutya ngexesha leMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi. Kunye nomama wakhe kunye nomakazi wakhe, uRomina ulandela ekhondweni lakhe, evelisa iintlobo zamasi ezintsha nezineziqhamo kumzi-mveliso wosapho eSan Romana di Vibbiana. Ndwendwela umzi-mveliso ukhenketho olunomdla lwemisebenzi yabo yetshe-ebekwe kwinduli eneembono ezitshayelayo zentaba, i Zobisi uziva ngathi ukwindawo evela kwiNgoma yoMculo.

UPodere Còncori

NgoLwesihlanu ngokuhlwa kwi-Renaissance Tuscancy, iindwendwe zinokuhlangana eNour Lounge kunye nomenzi wewayini uGabriele da Prato ngokungcamla Amandla kaCòncori ezahlukahlukeneyo. Ukuntywila nzulu kwiifilosofi ezisemva kwe-biodynamic winemaking, lungiselela ukuhamba imidiliya ilandelwe sisidlo sasemini kunye nokungcamlwa kwewayini kwisidiliya esikufuphi, nesiza kuba sisikhumbuzo sohambo oluya eGarfagnana. .

UOsteria Il Vecchio Molino

Abandwendweli kumpheki u-Andrea Bertucci wonwabile iwayini-bar-ihlangana-yentengiso-idibana-kwindawo yokutyela e Castelnuovo di Garfagnana ungaze ubone imenyu, kodwa ungaze ushiye ulambile. Ukuqinisekiswa ngokuseka intshukumo yokutya okuCothayo eGarfagnan, esebenza ukugcina nokukhuthaza iindlela zokutya zemveli, uBertucci uhambisa izidlo ngamava awodwa okupheka ebonisa iincasa zasekhaya kwiTuscan yakhe yaseRustic. Indawo yokutyela.

Izinto zokwenza

Intlambo yaseSerchio isebenza ukuba yaziwe njengehabhu lokuzonwabisa eTuscany. Abathandi bangaphandle banokufumana yonke into ukusuka ekunyukeni kwi-Apuan Alps ukuya kumhlophe we-rafting, i-ziplining, kunye nokuhamba ngeebhayisikile ezintabeni. IiVavanyo ze-E20 ikhokelela abatyeleli kwimbali yakudala yommandla wokuhambahamba kwiidolophana ezintlanu zamaxesha aphakathi kunyuko lweCinque Borghi.