Umfazi wam, uJo Anne, kwaye sagqiba kwelokuba siye eRoma nosana lwethu olutsha. Wayeneeveki ezisixhenxe ezintsha. ULucia: ozisa ukukhanya. Wayizisa ngobuninzi, imini kunye (yeha) ebusuku. Rhoqo amaxesha ngamaxesha, besifuna ikhefu. Kwafika ngohlobo lukaPiera Bonerba, ibhinqa eliselula, elinentliziyo entle enkulu evela ePuglia.
UPiera wamqokelela uLucia kwaye wazisa uxolo-kunye nokulala-ebomini bethu. Ngenye intsasa wasiphathela ingqayi yeetumato eyayikhuliswe ngunina, yomiswa kubushushu obusemazantsi obukhulu kwaye igcinwe kunye nee-capers kunye neoyile. Babenobunzima bomhlaba obandenza ndafuna ukunciphisa ixesha.
Yintoni eyenza ezi zitumato zikhetheke kangaka? Ndibuze kuPiera.
Indawo abavela kuyo, uphendule watsho.
UPiera uthe ndenzelwe utyelelo eSalento, iphondo elisesithendeni sebhutsi kwincam yelipeninsula yase-Italiya awayecinga ukuba lolona phawu lubalaseleyo lomlinganiswa wasePuglian. Apha ndingafumana i-Itali ye-30, iminyaka eyi-40 eyadlulayo. Ekude; ngasemva, ngeyona ndlela intle; unganyathelwa ngabakhenkethi. Izakhelwe yiAdriatic ngasempuma nakuLwandle i-Ionia ngasentshona, ibinamanzi acocekileyo, okona kutya kunencasa. Abantu babevulekile njengesibhakabhaka.
Kusithathe ixesha, kodwa ihlobo uLucia wajika iminyaka emithathu, saya. Saqala sahlala noPiera nosapho lwakhe kufutshane nase-Ugento, apho ndachitha khona iiyure ezininzi ezintle kunxweme lolwandle olunentlabathi, siqaphela iindlela zalapha: abantu babedada kusasa baphinde babuye ngokuhlwa; emva kwemini yokubhaka ulwandle lwalushiywe njengayo nayiphi na indawo yendawo okanye isitalato sasedolophini. Ayizizo zonke i-Italiya ezinomzimba wesithixo. Abasetyhini bathande ukufikelela kwi-bikinis yabo ngeentsimbi zeperile. U-Lucia yedwa phakathi kwabantwana wayenxibe umzimba opheleleyo we-SPF, ebangela enye inkwenkwana ukuba ibuze, Uyabanda? —Ngaba uyabanda? Inkqubo ye- Ityholo leMeditera - indawo ekhutshiweyo eyenziwe nge-oregano, irosemary, ijuniper-yaqhola umoya njengoko iikhilikithi zicula kwaye zicula.
Phakathi kokuqubha ndafunda ukuba ubumdaka bukaSalento budlulela nakwiakhawunti zabahambi abathetha isiNgesi, ezingabalulekanga. Akukho volumu ipheleleyo kukutya kweSalento ngesiNgesi, ngamacandelo kuphela kwincwadi ebalaseleyo kaNancy Harmon Jenkins Iincasa zePuglia kunye nezahluko zichithakele Ubusi Bokhula, Umsebenzi oyintsusa ngumbhali waseNgilani uPatience Grey, owahlala ngo-1970 eSalento engenawo amanzi abalekayo okanye ombane kwaye wazisa ukugxila kwabafundi, kwaye phantse nobuchule obufana nobugqwirha, ekuphekeni nasekubhaleni kwakhe ngokufanayo. I-Salento inayo umenzi wayo wefilimu, u-Edoardo Winspeare, oomabonakude bakhe bokuqala (Incinciwe; Igazi liphila jika iliso elibukhali kwi-ethnographic kumlinganiswa wommandla.
Ndikhawuleze ndafumanisa ukuba uSalentine Peninsula yenzelwe ukuqhuba ngemoto-ukuba nje unamathela kwiindlela ezintle zasesekondari. Nangona uyindawo eyahlukileyo ngokwahlukileyo, lo mmandla awukho mkhulu: ungayenza ukusuka kunxweme lweAdriatic ukuya eIonia kungaphelanga neeyure ezimbini. Ukuqhuba kwandibonisa nendlela ethe tyaba ngayo imbonakalo yomhlaba kunye nendlela ekhula ngayo imithi yeminquma- iPuglia ngomnye wabavelisi beoyile yewayini kunye newayini. Rhoqo iminquma kunye neediliya zaziphazanyiswa ngamasango enziwe ngamatye kunye nentsimbi eyenziwe ephawula iindlela ezinde ukuya iifama, izakhiwo ezinjengeefama ezibandakanya iindawo zokuhlala, oovimba, izakhiwo ezingaphandle, kunye neeworkshops, eziyimbumba yobume bendawo leyo. Uninzi lwe iifama Baye bashiywa, kwaye izithsaba zabo zomphefumlo zaba negalelo kwimvakalelo endandinayo yokuba le yayiyimbonakalo yomhlaba ethe yabona ubutyebi bunyuka buwela kaninzi. Kodwa akukho nto yagqama yafana nombala womhlaba, owawuphakathi kwegazi nesinamon kwaye, xa ulinywa, wahlulwa waba ziinxalenye ezinkulu, ezithandekayo: yayifana neMars, yayichumile kuphela.
Ngenye intsasa ndaya kwimarike yeentlanzi eGallipoli, enegama lendala lesiGrike, iKalè Polis, okanye isixeko esihle, kwabonakala ngathi sisiqingatha esichanekileyo: IGallipoli yayintle ngokwenene, nangona yayingengombono wam wokuba sisixeko. Izitalato zayo ezimxinwa, ezifana newebhu zazinwenwela kwisiqithi esincinci esakha senza ubutyebi sokwenza kunye nokuthumela kwelinye ilizwe ioyile yomnquma, eyayisetyenziselwa ukukhanyisa izibane, hayi ukupheka.
Kwakufuneka ndikhangele emarikeni kuphela ngaphambi kokuba ndenze umhlobo omtsha, uCosimo, owazazisa njengaye umlobi oyinyani waseGallipoli kwaye wandicenga ukuba ndithenge ii-clams ezininzi kunye neembaza (ngamaqhekeza amaxabiso aseNew York kodwa ngekhulu levumba) kunokuba besinokutya. Ngelixa uCosimo epakisha izinto endizithengileyo, ndandihlola idolophu. Njengobuninzi bokwakhiwa kweTalente, eyaseGallipoli inesitampu esicocekileyo seBaroque nakwezinye izindlu zabucala ezithobekileyo, ezinamaqhekeza omdaka omhlophe abunjiweyo akhululwa kukukhanya kwemibala etyheli, ipersimmon kunye negolide. Naphi na apho ndandihamba khona ndandibona abalobi belungisa iminatha okanye abafazi abadala bengqiyame ngeefestile okanye behleli kwizitulo ezincinane ezisongwayo ezitratweni, benitha kwaye bebukele abantwana. Kwindawo engenazindlela okanye iigadi kunye nee-piazas ezimbalwa, isitalato uqobo sasiyidolophu yesikwere.
Ngenye intsasa ndahamba ndaya kwezinye zeedolophu zase ngaphakathi . Ezi ndawo zangaphakathi zenza ilizwe elincinci, eliyimfihlo ngaphakathi komda oluhlaza-luhlaza wonxweme lweSalento. EMaglie, eyona inkulu kuzo, ndaye ndema kumzi-mveliso wepasta obizwa ngokuba yiPastificio Benedetto Cavalieri, novelisa ipasta ebukekayo kwalapha ukusukela ngo-1918- cinga uWilly Wonka nge-semolina endaweni yetshokholethi- phambi kokuhamba kwizitrato ezisembindini, apho kubonakala ngathi ube linani elingalinganiyo leevenkile zabatshatayo, ii-boutique zangaphantsi (zabasetyhini nezamadoda), kunye iivenkile zepasta .
UMaglie wayexakekile kwaye enekhalori; iidolophu zaseGrisi Salentina, ngokuchaseneyo, zavalwa, zaqalwa ngamatye, kwaye zazingaqondakali. Ezi lali zili-11 — iCorigliano d'Otranto yayiyeyona ndiyithandayo-zineengcambu zamaGrike ezinokubuyela emva kwinkulungwane yesibhozo; ngenkulungwane ye-10, iimbacu zase-Greek zazizinze kwindawo ekhuselekileyo yangaphakathi. Ulwimi lwabo, impahla, ukutya kunye nemikhwa yabo yayingamaGrike ngokupheleleyo; nangoku, iwaka leminyaka kamva, isizukulwana esidala sisathetha uhlobo lwesiGrike.
Okungako malunga neSalento kuthe ngqo kwiphondo: iilwimi zesithili; Ukutya; umculo (uAlan Lomax watyelela ngo-1954 kwaye wenza ushicilelo oluninzi olubalulekileyo); kwaye ngaphezulu kwayo yonke i-tarantella, umdaniso onemvelaphi yawo isaphikisanayo, kodwa ekukholelwa ukuba yavela ngenkulungwane ye-15 ejikeleze iTaranto. Abafazi abahluphekayo bakholelwa ukuba balunywe zizigcawu kwaye banokucoca kuphela imizimba yabo yetyhefu, kunye nemiphefumlo yabo ye-hysteria ehamba nayo, ngokujikeleza ngokungqonge isangqa. I-tarantella, eyayiqheliselwa kakuhle kwiminyaka yoo-1960, iye yafumana imvuselelo kwiminyaka yakutshanje kwaye ibhiyozelwa kwiminyhadala yehlobo eMelpignano naseGalatina. Ndichithe intsasa yangeCawe eGalatina ndijonga iifresco kwicawa yaseSanta Caterina d'Alessandria, apho amabali eTestamente eNdala kunye neNtsha anikwa ubuchwephesha obunobukrakra bokuthi inyoka eGadini yase-Eden ineentyatyambo ezibalekayo kunye nengqele engaqhelekanga, Ukwazi ukungcangcazela, ngokungathi wayeyedwa ekhuselekile kukulunywa sisigcawu.
ISalento yindawo eneziphelo ezininzi. AmaRoma ayigqiba iAppian Way eBrindisi. I-autostrada ephambili isengamasebe kwindlela yesibini apho, njengoko kunjalo nangololiwe bakarhulumente. Kodwa esona siphelo sihle somhlaba ngokwawo: eSanta Maria di Leuca umqondiso kwindawo engenanto yomoya ovuthuzayo ikukhumbuza-ngokungathi, ujikelezwe lulwandle olungenasiphelo, obudinga ukukhunjuzwa- ukuba ufikile iziphelo zehlabathi.
Ndize ngenye imva kwemini ukuzokubona amanzi kwakhona, kwindawo apho, okanye kufutshane nalapho, ulwandle iAdriatic kunye nolwandle Ionia zidibana khona. Yayiyinto entle kangakanani ukuma esiphelweni se-Italiya, kwindawo ephakamileyo eyayikade inetempile emhlophe eqaqambileyo eMinerva kwaye isebenza njengesikhokelo esidumileyo koomatiloshe bakudala-wonke umntu (amaMycenaeans namaMinoans, amaGrike, ama AmaRoma, kwaye kamva amaByzantine, iiLongobards, kunye neeSaracens) esele zigqithile apha. Ndakhangela ezintsomi kodwa, ngokokuma kwabaninzi bejografi, umgca omhlophe ongaphefumlelwanga ophawula eyona ndawo yokudibana kwezi lwandle zimbini, emva koko ndehla ndaya kwinqanaba lamanzi ndaza ndakhwela iphenyane elaliqhutywa yinkwenkwana eyayibonakala ngathi inokuba li-12. Undithathile kunye nokusasazeka kwabanye abahambi kukhenketho lonxweme lweIonia; sabeka i-putt-putted in and out of half of dozen emiqolombeni, apho umhlaba wabila wavuza kwaye i-boatswain yalatha kumatye amile okwengwenya, indoda endala enomsindo, kwaye-ngubani omnye umntu? -uMadonna ononcumo.
Emva kweentsuku ezintathu kufutshane neUgento sagqithela eMasseria Bernardini, kufutshane naseNardò. Ngaphandle kweemfumba zamatye atyheli umakhi waseMilanese kunye nomnini wegalari wenze ii-suites ezisixhenxe, ezinye zinamagumbi okulala amaninzi. Amakhitshi kunye nemisebenzi yobugcisa yayilixesha langoku, iigadi ezinuka kamnandi nge lavender kunye ne rosemary, kwaye ichibi lalonwabile. Ndingahlala ngonaphakade.
Ndimthandile uNardò. Iicawa zeBaroque zazizele ngabasetyhini abazithandayo. Amadoda ayehlanganisene izangqa, into efana neeklabhu zentlalo, ukudlala amakhadi kunye nokusela ibhiya. Okanye kungenjalo babekwindawo yokucheba iinwele, beme ngomva ukuba bachetywe ngezitshetshe ezithe nkqo. Kwivenkile yezandla yedolophu egcinwe kakuhle, ndabuza ibhinqa eliselula elandincedayo ukuba ziphi zonke iintanga zakhe. Elunxwemeni, waphendula, encwina.
Konke ukutya esikutyileyo, nokuba kukwi-bar yaselunxwemeni okanye kwindawo yokutyela ekhukhumeleyo, kwavezwa kakuhle, kunye neencasa ezinamandla, ezicocekileyo, ezinzulu kunokuba bendikutyile emva kwamashumi eminyaka ndihamba ndihlala e-Itali. E-Taviano satya e-A Casa tu Martinu, egxile kwizitya ezifana ne-Salentine iimbotyi ezimsulwa kunye ne-chicory, I-purée yeembotyi ze-fava zenziwe nge-chicory ebunileyo, kwaye ii-chickpeas kunye ne-tria, ipasta eyosiweyo iyaphoswa ngamantshontsho. ELecce, indawo esiya kuyo elandelayo, satya kathathu eAlle ngenxa yeCorti, indawo ebaleka usapho apho imenyu ikwisiyelelane (kunye nesiNgesi). Kananjalo ngelixa ndandiseLecce ndafunda isifundo sokupheka kunye noSilvestro Silvestori owazalelwa eMelika, umakhulu wakhe yayinguLeccese kwaye eqhuba isikolo sokupheka apho ukusukela ngo-2003. USilvestori wathetha nam malunga nobudlelwane bukaSalento bokutsala kunye nokutsala ngokwesiko kunye notshintsho. Isithethe: abantu basayitya inyama yehashe, iinkumba, isonka sokupela kunye nerhasi esifana nenyama kwaye siyazixhasa; bayarhana ngabantu bangaphandle; abayithandi into entsha. Ukanti utshintsho belungathandabuzeki emoyeni: iivintner zalapha ekhaya, emva kweminyaka bezama ukulinganisa iwayini ezisemantla, bafunda ukuzixabisa iindidi zabo, phakathi kwabo iPrimitivo neNegroamaro; idolophu inebhodi yabakhenkethi esebenzayo; imacadam embi iye yaqwengwa yatshintshwa yamatye eengubo; Iibhari zewayini bezisanda.
Sasihlala ngekona sisuka kwisikolo saseSilvestori eSuite 68, encinci, i-B & B encinci kwipalazzo yabucala eyamkela kangangokuba xa uLucia wangena kwigumbi lokungena wajonga macala onke wabuza ukuba angakhulula izihlangu na. U-Mary Rossi ophetheke kakhulu, olawula i-B & B, wandixelela ukuba kule minyaka mihlanu idlulileyo uLecce uqalile ukuvuka kwaye aqonde ukuba inantoni: isixeko esithobekileyo esinokutya okumnandi, isithethe esivuselelweyo sobugcisa bobugcisa be-papier-mâché, i-amphitheatre yaseRoma, ivenkile emangalisayo yeencwadi, kunye neemayile zoyilo lweBaroque, uninzi lwayo lwayilwa nguGiuseppe Zimbalo, kwaye phantse yonke loo nto yayiyinto engenangqondo kwaye ingaphezulu kangangokuba umfazi wam wayichaza enxilile.
Sasinenye enye ubunzima, imontelauro, emazantsi nje e-Otranto: esinye isakhiwo sokuqala, kanye njengekhaya kwiintsapho ezingama-20, ezazenziwe ngokutsha ngumnini wefashoni uElisabetta Turgi Prosperi. Igumbi lethu lelona lincinci esakha sahlala kulo, kodwa bekukho imbuyekezo: ichibi elide elibekwe engceni emnyama, eyomileyo; isidlo sakusasa esimnandi kunye nesidlo sasemini, zombini ziphakiwe ngaphandle ; kunye nabathengi ukusuka kubantwana abanobuhlobo ukuya kubafazi abadala abancinci kwiiglasi ezinkulu ezenziwe ngesilivere kunye neeshifti zelinen.
I-Otranto yajika yaba yeyona ndawo inye kuyo yonke iSalento ebibonakala ngathi ivukile kakhulu kwiimfuno zabakhenkethi bayo. Yayinevenkile yokuqala (kunye neyama-21) yeT-shirt endiyibonileyo kuhambo lwam, i-kitschy gewgaws, i-carousel enomsindo. Le yayiyi-Otranto ebusuku, nangona kunjalo; Ngentsasa elandelayo ndafumana indawo edakumbisayo, phantse ngokungathi, emini, u-Otranto wayevuka qho kwinkumbulo yokubulawa kwabantu okwenziwa ngo-1480 ngokuhlasela abantu baseTurkey, abanqumla intloko ama-800 e-Otrantini xa besala ukuguqukela kubu-Islam. Amathambo abo abonisiwe kwindlu yecawe enkulu, ekwalikhaya leseti yemizobo eyenziwe ngobugcisa egqitywe ngo-1166, kwaye uninzi lwee-cannonballs zaseTurkey zisasazeke nasezitratweni. Beziva ngathi banokudutyulwa apho iiyure ezintlanu endaweni yeminyaka engama-530 eyadlulayo.
Ngomhla wam wokugqibela ndagqiba uhambo lwam njengoko bendiqala ngalo: ngokuqhuba. Ndaya emazantsi ukuya kubona ii-menhirs kunye ne dolmens kufutshane neUggiano la Chiesa. La malungiselelo angaqondakaliyo amatye, afikeleleka ngeendlela ezi-slender (ukuba ziphawulwe kakuhle), zashiywa ngabantu base-Bronze Age baziwa ngokuba yi-Messapians; Babonakala kum ukuba bawele kumhlaba oyintlango njengeendwendwe ezivela kwenye iplanethi. Emva koko ndaya emantla ukuya kujonga i-Laghi Alimini, amanzi amnandi ngakumbi eSalentine. Endleleni yam ebuyela eMontelauro, ilanga lisiya lithoba kwaye utyelelo lwam olunelanga olungenakulibaleka lusondela esiphelweni salo, ndema kwindawo yamafama apho, ecaleni kweeapilkosi, iipesika, iidiliya, iitsheri, iivatala, neeyadi zemifuno, umfazi womfama wayethengisa iitumato zakhe ezomileyo, amakhowa, i-zucchini-endingazange ndayibona ngaphambili-kunye ne-capers. Uthathe ikepusi ngecephe lomthi elibethekileyo wandinika. Ndikungcamle kamnandi, ndangcamla ityiwa, ndeva iqhekeza elincinci lotywala obunesiqhamo ligqabhukile emlonyeni wam.
Ngaba uyazi ukuba yintoni eyenza ukuba ikhetheke kangaka? Ubuzile.
Ngokwenyani, ndimxelele, ndiyakholelwa.
Ukubhalwa kukaMichael Frank kuye kwachazwa njengesiqhelo I-Itali: Eyona Ndawo yokuBhala ibalaseleyo ivela kwiNew York Times . Ngoku usebenza kwinoveli.
Hlala
UMasseria Bernardini UContrada Agnano, Nardò; 39-02 / 5843-1058; Epreli-Okthobha; 39-0833 / 570-408; www.yesoft.cxm ; iisuti ezivela $ 260.
Ixabiso elikhulu UMasseria uDon Cirillo IPhondo i-Ugento - iTorre S. Giovanni, eUgento; 39-0833 / 931-432; xphat.it ; iphindwe kabini ukusuka kwi-182 yeedola.
Ixabiso elikhulu IMasseria Montelauro Indlela yephondo iOtranto - Uggiano, Montelauro; 39-0836 / 806-203; luyiwo.it ; iphindwe kabini kwi $ 215.
Ixabiso elikhulu Suite 68 7 Ukuhamba ngoLeonardo Prato, uLecce; 39-0832 / 303-506; xphat.it ; iphindwe kabini kwi $ 104.
Indlu kunye neendawo zokuhlala kubelkg.it .
Yitya
Ekhaya uMartinu wakho Ngama-95 ngeCorsica, eTaviano; 39-0833 / 913-652; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezimbini ezingama-78.
Kwiinkundla ezimbini 1 Inkundla yaseGiugni, eLecce; 39-0832 / 242-223; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-52.
I-pastry yamandulo G. Portaluri I-18 iVia Alcide de Gasperi, iMaglie; 39-380 / 356-5236; Iipheki zeedola ezimbini.
Indawo yokutyela eLa Pignata 7 uCorso Garibaldi, waseOtranto; 39-339 / 313-8430; isidlo sangokuhlwa ngeedola ezingama-65.
UTrattoria Le Taiate Ukuhamba ngeLitoranea, ePorto Badisco; 39-0836 / 811-625; Matshi – Septemba; isidlo sasemini ngeedola ezingama-40.
Yenza
QuiSalento , isikhokelo senyanga kubugcisa, ukonwatyiswa, kunye neeresityu, inewebhusayithi eluncedo kwaye ipapasha esinye sezikhokelo ezimbalwa zesiNgesi kuloo ndawo. lbunnyabana.biz .
Ukulinda iSikolo seTafile yokuPheka Lecce; linda.com ; NgoFebruwari ukuya kuDisemba; iiklasi ezivela kwi- $ 455.
ULido Pizzo Unxweme lokuqubha oluqhutywa ngabaninimzi abafanayo neA Casa tu Martinu. Gallipoli; 39-0833 / 276-978; icala elipheleleyo.it .
INautica Med Ukuhamba ngephenyane emiqolombeni kufutshane naseSanta Maria di Leuca. Nge-Via Enea, eMarina di Leuca; 39-335 / 219-119; ukhenketho ukusuka $ 20.
Ivenkile
Umzi-mveliso wepasta wamandulo waseBenedetto Cavalieri Ipasta eyomileyo yendabuko. Nge-Via Garibaldi, Maglie; 39-0836 / 484-144.
UTerrarossa Arte Salentina Imisebenzi yobugcisa ekhethwe kakuhle. 28 uPiazza Salandra, uNardò; 39-0833 / 572-685; wuwekhisweb.it .
I-Pescheria La Lampara Kwimarike yeentlanzi ezibuko, iGallipoli; 39-0833 / 261-936.
Kwiinkundla ezimbini
UMasseria Bernardini
Ngaphandle kweemfumba zamatye atyheli umakhi waseMilanese kunye nomnini wegalari wenze ii-suites ezisixhenxe, ezinye zinamagumbi okulala amaninzi. Amakhitshi kunye nemisebenzi yobugcisa yeyangoku, iigadi ezinuka kamnandi nge lavender kunye ne rosemary, kwaye ichibi liyonwabisa.
UMasseria uDon Cirillo
IMasseria Montelauro
Obu bunzima bezakhiwo babukhe baba likhaya kwiintsapho ezingama-20 kodwa zenziwe ngokutsha ngumnini wefashoni uElisabetta Turgi Prosperi.
Suite 68
U-Mary Rossi onomdla kakhulu uqhuba le nto incinci, i-B & B kwi-palazzo yabucala.
Ekhaya uMartinu wakho
Indawo yokutyela igxile kwizitya ezinjalo zeSalentine njenge iimbotyi ezihlambulukileyo kunye ne-chicory , I-purée yeembotyi ze-fava zenziwa nge-chicory ebunileyo, kwaye I-ciceri kunye ne-tria , ipasta eyosiweyo iyaphoswa ngamantshontsho.
I-pastry yamandulo G. Portaluri
Indawo yokutyela eLa Pignata
UTrattoria Le Taiate
Matshi-Septemba
ULido Pizzo
Unxweme lokuqubha oluqhutywa ngabaninimzi abafanayo neA Casa tu Martinu.
INautica Med
Ukuhamba ngephenyane emiqolombeni kufutshane naseSanta Maria di Leuca.
Umzi-mveliso wepasta wamandulo waseBenedetto Cavalieri
Ipasta eyomileyo yendabuko.
UTerrarossa Arte Salentina
Imisebenzi yobugcisa ekhethwe kakuhle.