Xa ndihamba, ndiye ndikhangele la maxesha anqabileyo xa ndilibale ukuba kude nekhaya - ndihleli kwivenkile yokutyela emema kakhulu, ngoko nangoko ndiziva ngathi ndingowakhe. Ihleli esitulweni kwibhar yomthi ende yerestyu encinci yaseMontreal egama lingu Unozakuzaku , Ndaziva. Mhlawumbi yayiluthando umpheki u-Aaron Langille awaluchaza ngendlela ayicofa ngayo ibhotolo neLaphroaig. Okanye mhlawumbi yayilulonwabo omnye wabapheki bakhe awandibalisela ngokugcoba ihagu yonke. Okanye yenziwe yindlu hoshigaki - i-persimmon eyomiswe ngumoya athe uLangille wayichaza 'njengesiQinisekiso seziQhinga' - athe wasika iqhekeza wandinyanzela ukuba ndingcamle.

KwakungoJanuwari ngokuhlwa, kwaye ndiyazi ukuba ubuya kuhleka ebusweni bam obubethwa ngumoya ukuba bendinokuxelela ukuba iMontreal ayibandi ebusika. Kuba I & apos; m andithambekiyo ekuthotyelweni esidlangalaleni, mandivume ukuba iMontreal, eneneni, iyabanda. Ukuhamba ezitratweni iiyure kunye neeyure kwavuselela uxabiso lwam ngempahla yangaphantsi ende. Kwakhona kwandifundisa isifundo esibalulekileyo malunga nesixeko kwiinyanga ezibandayo: isenokuba lelona xesha lonyaka lifudumeleyo, nelona luthandayo ukutyelela, ngakumbi abo baya kutya khona.

IMontreal sisixeko esiphuphuma ngokupheka okumnandi- kwaye kwezi ntsuku, kuhamba iiapos kude nendawo yokutya ephefumlelweyo yeFrance eyadlulayo. Ngaphandle kwendawo yabakhenkethi eOld Montreal, wena & Apos, niyakufumana abapheki, abaxube bezinto, kunye nababhaki abahlonipha iQuebec & apos; terroir kunye neyantlukwano ngeendlela ezintsha nezinomdla. Umntla-ntshona wombindi wedolophu, iqela labamelwane - i-Itali encinci, iRosemont – La Petite-Patrie, iVilleray, iMile-Ex - iyavela njengendawo yenkcubeko yokutya engenakuchazwa sisizwe esinye semvelaphi okanye isitayile sokupheka.

Olu luntu lwamkele izizukulwana zabaphambukeli kwihlabathi liphela. Le yiMontreal yeMontrealers. Isikhupheli. Yinto eclectic. Sinenkululeko engakumbi yokulinga, utshilo uLangille, owazalelwa e-Alberta, wakhulela eCalifornia, wapheka eNoma phambi kokuvula iLe Diplomate eMile-Ex.

Yintoni eyona nto ibhetele kubakhenkethi: ekwindla nasebusika, iivenkile zokutyela azixinanga, kwaye ukubhukisha kulula ukukhuseleka. Abapheki abazinikele ekufumaniseni ubuchwephesha basebenzise ubukrelekrele obumangalisayo ngexesha apho ubuninzi behlobo imemori ekude.

'Abantu balapha abanikisi f ** k ukuba kuyabanda,' uMarc-Olivier Frappier wandixelela xa ndihleli kwibar yekhitshi Umvundla weWayini yam , Ukutya okubuyisiweyo, ukutya kweminyaka emibini e-Little Italy ebalekayo kwaye ikwangumnini wayo. 'Kwiveki ephelileyo, kukho ikhephu. Kwakubanda, kwaye kwakumnyama, kwaye babelapha. '

UVin Mon Lapin unomnombo obalaseleyo. Amaqabane eshishini eFrappier kunye neeapos nawo ayasebenza UJoe Beef , eye yaba yenye yeendawo zokutyela ezaziwa kakhulu eCanada & apos; ngenxa yemenyu yokuzixakekisa enzima kwi-foie gras, ukusika i-steak, kunye nesitya sayo sokutyikitya, i-lobster spaghetti. Umoya wayo wobuhlobo obugqithisileyo obuneziphumo ezibi; Ibali laseNew Yorker kule ntwasahlobo idlulileyo kubhalwe i-testosterone-fueled, inkcubeko enxiliswe ngotywala yeJoe Beef & apos; ekhitshini kunye neenkokheli zayo & apos; iinzame zamva nje zokwenza ulungiso kwimeko yokusebenza enetyhefu abayenzileyo & apos; d. Ukanti kuyo yonke indawo yokutyela kunye ne-apos; udumo kunye ne-infamy, nokuba akukho menyu kaJoe Beef & apos; okanye inkcubeko yayo ibonakala imele indawo yokutya yaseMontreal ngokubanzi.

UVin Mon Lapin sisiyobisi kuJoe Beef ngeendlela ezininzi. Ikhitshi layo elivulekileyo liziva livuya, lide libe seluxolweni. Imenyu ayichukumisi ngobuninzi okanye i-bravado kodwa ngokududuza okuthe tye, indibaniselwano yokucinga, kunye nokuchuma okungalindelekanga. Nokuba kukho into ebonakala ngathi yeyokukalwa njengenkqubo yesonka kunye nebhotolo ecingelwayo: apha, isonka (esigqwesileyo) esenziwe endlwini siza nemargarine. Kodwa oku ayizizo izinto zevenkile engaziwayo. Ukuba bekukho into enje ngemajarini entle, ibiya kuba yiVin Mon Lapin & apos - it & apos; zityakatywa kwioyile ye-sunflower ye-organic, ecinezelweyo, eyenzelwe ekuhlaleni ukuba isasaze ngokukhawuleza kwaye ityebile, ibonakale kwaye ibalulekile.

Ukuphela kwesidlo sam, ndazilungiselela ukuba ndibuyele ngaphandle ndiye kubanda. UFrappier wandicela ukuba ndilinde, kuba kukho 'into encinci' ekufuneka ndiyizamile ngaphambi kokuba ndihambe. Kwafika imizuzwana kamva-indlwane encinci yee-noodles ezimenyezelayo zagungxwa yinto endingenakuyibona kwangoko. Kuya kufuneka uyithande indawo yokutyela apho 'into encinci nje' iphela isitya se-eel carbonara. I-eel, itshaye ngexesha lasehlotyeni nasekuqaleni kokuwa ize igcinelwe ubusika, icula ilifa lemveli laseCanada (Abantu beZizwe zokuQala bayiloba iminyaka eliwaka), kwaye icarbonara sisikhalo sothando kwindawo yokutyela kunye neapos. UVin Mon Lapin uhleli entliziyweni ye-Itali encinci, ebibhiyozela iminyaka elikhulu kulo nyaka.

Ezinxulumene : Isitalato i-One Montreal Wonke umntu othanda ukutya makatyelele

Ngelixa uluntu lwase-Italiya-lwase Canada lwalukhula kule ndawo ukusukela ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane ye-19, u1919 waphawula into eyindumasi: ulwakhiwo lweCawe entle yaseMadonna della Difesa yabonisa ukuba balapha ukuhlala. Ngo-1933, isixeko savula i Intengiso kaJean-Talon Kumantana amancinci e-Italiyane Ihlala iyenye yeemarike ezinkulu ezivulekileyo eMntla Melika. Amacandelo angaphandle acacile ngexesha elibandayo, kodwa usengangena kwi-Fromagerie Hamel, enokhetho olukhethiweyo, kunye neLe Marché des Saveurs du Québec, egcina ii-maple syrups ezivela kubavelisi abaninzi kunye neecider, iibhiya, i-charcuterie , kunye nezinye izikhumbuzo ezintle ezivela kwiphondo liphela.

Izitrato ezikufutshane zixinene ngeevenkile eziye zanyamezela amashumi eminyaka. Okona kubalulekileyo kunokuba kuko Izixhobo zeDante . Ngo-1956, uTeresa noLuigi Vendittelli bavula le venkile kwikona yeRue Dante kunye neRue St.-Dominique ukuthengisa izixhobo ezenziwe ngesiTaliyane kunye nezinto zendlu. Kwiminyaka embalwa kamva, oonyana babo bongeza imipu kunye ne-ammo kubazingeli. Kwiminyaka embalwa emva koko, iintombi zabo zaguqula isebe lezixhobo zalapho laba yenye yeevenkile zekhitshi ezigqibeleleyo zaseMontreal. Namhlanje ivenkile iyi-oddball hybrid, leyo ndawo inqabileyo apho ungathenga khona yonke into oyifunayo ukuze bobabini babulale isilwanyana kwaye basenze isidlo.

Indawo yaseQuincaillerie Dante & apos; kwindawo ekudibana kuyo kunye nokupheka ngokungazi ibonisa umfuziselo welixesha kunye nokuvela kokutya kwethu. Unokukufumana okuqulathiweyo ngendlela ebangela ukunyanzelwa EManitoba , nje edlulileyo iBoulevard St.-Laurent, eyenza umda phakathi kwe-Little Italy kunye neMile-Ex. Ukupheka okuphuma kumpheki uSimon Mathys kunye nekhitshi akunanto yakwenza nephondo laseCanada elibelana ngegama lalo. Ngokwenyani, kuya kubizwa ngokufanelekileyo ukuba yiQuebec. UMathys akayekeleli kwiminqweno yakhe kwimveliso yeQuébécois. Awuyi kufumana iilamuni okanye itshokholethi kwimenyu. Endaweni yoko, kuya kubakho i-honeyberry kunye ne-elderberry, i-whelks kunye ne-truffle yolwandle. Ngexesha lasebusika, phantse akukho luhlaza luvela epleyitini, kuba akukho nto ihlaza ngaphandle, utshilo. 'Kufuneka sifumane indlela entsha ngetheniphu okanye irutabaga.'

Ubusika kunye nobuhle bobuhle bujongelwa phantsi, bungaphantsi, bungabonakali. Kukukhanya kwelanga ukuqaqambisa ii-icicles ezixhonywe kwiibhalkoni zentsimbi yase-Itali encinci. Iiposifayile ikhephu kwimithi yaseJarry Park, apho ungatyibilika khona echibini elinomkhenkce. Yimfudumalo eyamkela kuwe xa ungena ngeminyango kwisikhululo seMetro.

Njengoko uMathys watshoyo, kuya kufuneka ufumane indlela entsha, kodwa eyonga amafa kunye nesiko. Inxalenye yoko kuthetha ukwamkela ubume beMontreal yanamhlanje- kuphela iipesenti ezingama-60 zesixeko kunye nabaposisi banemvelaphi yaseYurophu. IMontreal inama-Arabhu, amaTshayina, amaVietnam, amaHaiti, kunye neLatino, kwaye naphi na apho bendihamba khona, ndandiva amabali okwahlukahlukana. Oku akuthethi ukuba isizukulwane esikhulayo sabapheki kunye nabaphengululi sishiye iingcambu ezinzulu zaseMontreal kwisonka saseFrance. Uninzi lwazo luqeqeshwe edolophini & apos; eyona khitshi idumileyo- hayi eJoe Beef nje kuphela kodwa Ndachukumisa , UAu Pied de Cochon , kunye Izibetho ezingama-400 , ezidibeneyo zanceda ukuseka iMontreal njengendawo yokutya yokupheka. Ubungqongqo bezobuchwephesha babonisa ekuphekeni kwabo, kodwa kwimimandla yabo emitsha, benza indawo engakumbi yokudlala.

U-Luca Cianciulli, umpheki kunye nomnini-ndawo kwindawo yokutyela yase-Italiya Moccione , eVilleray, iquka zombini lomoya wokudlala kunye nokuqhubela phambili ukwenza okulungileyo ngabamelwane bakhe. Uye waphawula ukuba uyayibona indawo yakhe yokutyela ekwifestile yegumbi lakhe-ukusondela okumkhumbuza mihla le ngenjongo yakhe. 'Sinobuchule kunye nokuziphatha kwindawo yokutyela, wathi,' kunye nomoya weenkomo. '

Uyayiqonda into ayifunayo. Moccione Isilayidi saseNtaliyane esithetha ukuba 'sh * thead.' Ubeka ipasta kwimenyu ecaleni kwezitya zaseNtaliyane ezinqabileyo, ezinje ngedada tartare ('iparmigiano crisp iyinika italiyali yaseTaliyane') kunye nesibane sokukhanya kokutya kwaselwandle okuthosiweyo- smelt, calamari, Québécois shrimp - efafazwe furikake ('ayizizo ngokwesiTaliyane, kodwa bona kunye nazo zonke izinto onokuzifumana e-Italiya').

Ezinxulumene : Uyithanda njani iMontreal-Nokuba kusebusika

Kuya kufuneka ndibambe ishiya, kuba uCianciulli wakhawuleza wanqwala umntu asebenza naye waseKorea-waseCanada ecaleni kwakhe, ngokungathi ukuthethelela ubukho beencasa zaseAsia kwizitya zakhe. Indlela abapheki baseNtshona abayiphazamisa ngayo imida yokutya kwaseAsia banokuziva ngathi ikholoniyalizim yasekhitshini- iliza elitsha labathengisi abatyhutyha lonke ilizwe, bethatha umbono apha kunye nespice ukusuka apho. Kodwa yonke into endiyingcamle eMoccione ibimnandi. Kwaye ndathanda isitya sokutya sasemini sehagu eyosiweyo kunye nemifuno yamaTshayina kwirayisi endandinayo kwindawo yokutya eVietnam. UDenise , i-oasis yekhaya esitratweni seshishini kwindawo yeParc-Ex. Mhlawumbi, bendicinga, le mishmash yokupheka ibonakalisa ngokuqinisekileyo ubuso - kwaye ke, iipalati - zeMontreal zangoku.

Iibhloko ezimbini ezisuka kuMatshi uJean-Talon, uEmily Homsy noDavid Gauthier, bobabini ababesakuba nguAu Pied de Cochon, bavule Ibha iSt-Denis . Apho ungangcamla ilifa lemveli laseHomsy kunye nelase-apile, kubandakanya uguqulo kamakhulu wakhe, i-falafel, eyenziwe ngeembotyi zefava.

U-Homsy no-Gauthier banyanzelisa ukuba indawo yabo 'ibha ngokutya okulula,' hayi indawo yokutyela. Banyanzelisa ngokulinganayo ukuba bayaphekela abamelwane babo - 'sifuna abantu bakwazi ukuza apha ubusuku obuhlanu ngeveki, utshilo uHomsy. Kwaye bayapheka bevela kubamelwane babo; Kufika igongqongqo lethu ukusuka Umlambo iSt. Lawrence, utshilo. Siyamazi umntu oligorha. Igama lakhe nguJamie. '

Xa ndaxelela uHomsy ukuba bendihambe iikhilomitha ezimbini ukuya eBar St.-Denis, wandijonga ngathi ndiyaphambana. Emva koko ndamxelela ukuba ndicwangcisa ukuhamba ezinye iimayile ezimbini ukuya kwisidlo sangokuhlwa. 'Kufuneka ubenompu!' Utsho ebaleka emva kwebhari eyokugalela iiglasi zeChartreuse. 'Iyakufudumeza.'

Indawo nganye kwezi indenze ndaziva ndinethamsanqa ngokwaneleyo ukuba ndingene kuluntu lokwenyani, ukufumana incasa yekhaya lomntu. Kwangokunjalo nendawo enye ndizifumene ndiphinda ndinyanzelisa. ukuwa ayizizo ii-apos; ezininzi ukujonga. Ihleli kumgangatho ongaphantsi wesakhiwo sendlu esemajukujukwini eLa Petite-Patrie. Iifestile zihlala zingena fog kwiinyanga ezibandayo, kodwa iBOULANGERIE iprintwe kakuhle ngaphezulu komnyango wangaphambili. Yima ngaphandle okwemizuzu embalwa kwaye uzakubona umsinga wabemi balapha - inenekazi elidala elingqiyame ngentonga, utata oneendevu etyhala umntu ohambahambayo - ephuma, ephethe izonka ezintsha.

Umpheki uSeth Gabrielse kunye nombhaki uJulien Roy bavule i-Automne ngo-Okthobha ka-2016. Bachukunyiswa yinto yokuba, kwiivenkile zokubhaka apha, 'umbono we-terroir awuzange ubekho,' njengoko uGabrielse watsho, kwaye bazimisele ukuyitshintsha loo nto. Iipesenti ezingamashumi alithoba anesihlanu zomgubo wazo zivela eQuebec. Uninzi lwento engeyiyo ngumgubo welayisi, ekufuneka bewenze mhle amaqebengwana . (I-automne & apos; s croissant, nengaphandle eliqhekezayo elingaphandle kunye nendawo yangaphakathi ehlafunayo, yeyona ilungileyo I & apos sinayo ngaphandle kweFrance.)

Ngalo naluphi na usuku olunikiweyo, kuya kubakho isonka esingaphezulu kweshumi elinambini. Inkqubo ye- miche , ezenziwe ngemigubo emine eyahlukileyo, yeyona nto iphambili. Ngamanye amaxesha unokufumana isonka se-blueberry-walnut okanye, ekuweni, enye yenziwe nge-parsnip. Eyona nto ibiza kakhulu ayikaze ibe ngaphezulu kwe- $ 4. 'Andifuni nokuva ngexabiso lethu,' utshilo uRoy, onemvelaphi kwezemali. Ndifuna abantu bathethe ngomgangatho wethu.

Ngobusuku bam bokugqibela eMontreal, ndahamba ezindleleni ezinomkhenkce ndisiya Indlu yoluntu . Ngokobuchwephesha kwi-Plateau, ubumelwane ekufutshane nedolophu edume kakhulu kubakhenkethi. Kodwa abantu abaninzi bayicebisile. Ukuvulwa kweMaison Publique kwiminyaka esixhenxe eyadlulayo, kwicala lokuhlala elingathandekiyo, bathi, yaba nguvulindlela wokupheka kunye nomoya wokubuk 'iindwendwe endandikufuna.

Imfudumalo ye-gastropub kunye neapos kwangoko yagcwala iiglasi zam. Emva kokuba ndizisulile zicocekile, bendibona iibhotile ezincinci zeglasi kwitafile nganye enamagqabi amancinci e-chard. Ngokudlula, ndibone umphezulu wenkwenkwana kunye nentloko ye-apos. Yayingumnini-khosi uDerek Dammann kunye nonyana, uFeliks, bencedisa izitya zonyaka ngaphambi kokuba baye kudla.

Oko kusete ithoni kwisidlo siphela. Ukutya bekufikeleleka kodwa kunesibindi esihle: oyster ibhaka enye kunye neMarmite; I-foie gras ikhonza kunye ne-buttery madeleines, ukutyeba okungaphezulu, kunye nee-apile, zokuhlaziya okufunekayo. Ukuma? Isaladi ye squid etshisiweyo ehamba kunye ne-urchin yolwandle eyenziwe nge-mustard. Yayiyindida ezukileyo. Kwenzeka njani ukuba ipleyiti ebandayo - okanye ubuncinci ingatshisi - ishushu kangaka?

Phakathi kwesidlo sangokuhlwa, izibane zicinyiwe. Njengokuba oku kusenzeka rhoqo (ayenzi & apos; t), abapheki abayeki kwaye bayeke. Bakhuphe ii-iPhones zabo bakhanyisa izibane, bakhanyisa ikhitshi ngokwaneleyo ukuba baqhubeke nokupheka. Amakhandlela amaninzi avela. Kwimizuzu embalwa kamva, isiphumo se-strobe saqhekeza iifestile ezigqunywe liliso njengoko izibane ezibengezelayo ezibomvu zelori yomlilo edlulayo zazikhazimla kwisithuba. Igridi yombane yayisokola kubanda, kwaye isiguquli esikufutshane sasiqhushumbe.

' C & apos; ngaba sisityhilelo! ' umpheki omnye wathi ngokuchwayita rhoqo. Ukuboniswa, elo gama libonakala lifanelekile, kwesi sidlo kunye nakumava okutya indlela enye kunye neMosreal ebusika. Uhlobo lwayo lwesiGrike lwangaphambili, iapokalypsis, ayibonisi intlekele kodwa kukutyhilwa, ukutyhilwa, isityhilelo.

IMontreal, isidlo ngeSidlo

Apho utya khona

Yiya e Ibha iSt-Denis e-Little Italy iziselo kunye ne-Mbindi Mpuma-kuthwelwe iipleyiti ezincinci. Kufuphi Umvundla weWayini yam ine-cuisine yokuqamba kunye ne-offbeat kodwa uluhlu lwewayini oluhle, ngelixa Moccione yindawo yokuya kwezinye zeedolophu zaseNtaliyane ezilungileyo. KwiParc-Ex, iVietnam ngokukhululekileyo, ikhefi yosuku lonke UDenise kunyanzelekile. Indlu yoluntu isebenza ngegastropub fare kunye newayini zaseCanada. Unozakuzaku Iphila ngokuvisisana negama layo kunye neempembelelo ezikude njengeKorea neDenmark. EManitoba idibanisa imilingo kwimveliso yeQuébécois. Imiswe ngu ukuwa kwii-croissants ezintle kunye nezonka.

Apho Ivenkile

Tyelela Intengiso kaJean-Talon kwizinto zamasi kunye nezinto ze-pantry, Ivenkile yokutya Ukutya kwaseKhanada, kunye Izixhobo zeDante zokupheka.

Uhlala phi

Emva kweminyaka eli-107, i URitz-Carlton isenamawows - bhukha isuti kwaye upholise phambi komlilo.

Inguqulelo yeli bali yavela okokuqala kwimagazini ka-Novemba ka-2019 yoKhenketho + uLonwabo phantsi kwesihloko esithi Ukwamkelwa ngokufudumeleyo.