Lixesha lesidlo sasemini eTrieste, idolophu entle yase-Italiya eAdriatic, naseBuffet Da Pepi, isihlwele esiqhelekileyo sinyukela phambili sisiya kwisikhululo esikhonzayo, sitsalwe yinyama yehagu esandula ukubila kumhluzi onuka kamnandi. Umphunga uyenyuka. Aba bafana bathathu baphakela ukutya bafana nezinto zakudala zexesha elitsha kwindawo yokutya yaseNew York okanye mhlawumbi uTom Cruise njengebartender Indawo yokutya . Ubugcisa bukwisantya, indawo yokubonisa eqongeni yokuhombisa ifolokhwe kunye nemela njengoko bethatha inyama kwisilayiti semabhile, bakrola izilayi zenyama yehagu entsha, inyama yehagu ephilisiweyo, ihagu kunye cragno (isoseji), ziphose ezinye ngebhanti kwisandwich okanye kwisitya kwisitya esidityanisiweyo.

Ngecala le ikumkhi (i-sauerkraut eswiti kunye nembewu ye-caraway), esandula ukutsha bayakholelwa (ihorseradish), kunye ne-mustard, isidlo sasemini eDa Pepi sodwa senza uhambo oluya eTrieste lube luncedo. Ndicela ibhiya. UPierpaolo Segrè, isikhokelo sam, ucebisa ngeglasi yeTerrano, ebomvu yalapho.

Yile nto unokuyibiza ngokuba yindawo yehagu, kwaye iyiTrieste emsulwa, utshilo uSegrè, isizukulwana sesithathu iTriestine esithi amaTaliyane, amaDalmatiya, amaOstriya, amaHungary, amaKatolika, kunye namaJuda phakathi kookhokho bakhe, umxube njengoTriestine njengo inyama yehagu kunye newayini, kulandele i-espresso emnyama kwikhefi encinci apho uphakamisa khona ukusela isiselo sakho.

U-Segrè, njengabemi abaninzi, unomdla omncinci kwisixeko sakhe kwaye uyavuya kukuba ngoku ufumene i-buzz. Abantu bayo abakwiofisi yabakhenkethi bayalibona itheko elinombala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka — ligcwele amaphenyane kwaye lijikelezwe ziilwandle — bayayikhotha imilebe yabo kwaye, nangona iTrieste inye kuphela, inkulu kakhulu, kwaye inomtsalane kunendawo nje eselunxwemeni. Idolophu iPortofino ilinde ukwenzeka.

Emva kwesidlo sasemini, ndiye ndizame ukuhamba ndihamba ngehagu, ndinqanda amehlo am kwiivenkile zepastry, iifestile ezifakwe i-Sacher torte, iitarts zeziqhamo, iipinki kunye namaqebengwana almond aluhlaza. Kule dolophu icwecwe malunga nama-200,000, unokuhamba phantse naphi na. Ndiyabhadula. Ndinyuka induli encinci ukuya kumabhodlo aseRoma, ndenze indlela eya eRevoltella, eyayisakuba yindlu enkulu yomrhwebi osisityebi, inxenye yendlu isamelele, okusalayo kungumyuziyam wobugcisa bale mihla. Edlulileyo iTeatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi kwizikwere ezinkulu kwaye ecaleni kwamatye abuyayo anqabileyo, ndisiya kwisikwere esikhulu, nolwandle, ololule phambi kwalo.

Indawo kaTrieste kumda kanye woLwandle iAdriatic ibisoloko ichaza; isasebenza nangoku. Njengesixeko sanamhlanje, ngandlel 'ithile, sayilwa njenge dolophu yezibuko. Ukusukela ngeminyaka yoo-1380 ukuya kwiMfazwe yeHlabathi yokuQala, iTrieste yayiyeyaseHapsburgs — yayiyeyona ndlela iphambili yaseVienna eya elwandle kunye nehlabathi liphela.

Ndihleli ePiazza dell'Unità d'Italia, ndibukele isikhephe esiqhekezayo esiluhlaza nesimhlophe kuhambo lwaso lwemihla ngemihla. Kubonakala ngathi uza kuhamba ngqo kwisikwere esikhulu seTrieste. Ulwandle licala lesine le-piazza, kwaye ungaphantse ukungcamla ityuwa njengoko amaphenyane anesantya ehamba phezu kwamanzi. Ehlotyeni, imizimba enobhedu kwiibhikini ezincinci zilele kumanxweme ngaphandle kwedolophu; ekwindla kwangoko, ngexesha leRegatta yeBarcolana, itheku lityatyekwe kakhulu ziiseyile ezimhlophe uziva ngathi ungahamba ngaphezulu kwalo.

Yonke into eseTrieste ikhokelela kwi-piazza; le yintliziyo yesixeko ebethayo, igumbi layo lokuhlala. Kumacala amathathu zizakhiwo ezikhulu zamabhongo asebukhosini, ezakhiwe phakathi kwenkulungwane ye-19 neye-20. Ibhotwe likarhulumente, iholo ledolophu, kunye ne-inshurensi kunye neenkampani zokuhambisa zenza le ndawo iyimyuziyam evulekileyo kwaye inike umfanekiso weengcambu zedolophu kwezorhwebo nakwinkcubeko, yengqondo yayo.

Embindini nguMthombo waMazwekazi amane, indawo apho abafundi bethambeka khona, betyhutyha ii-iPhones zabo kwi-cacophony yeelwimi. Oosomashishini abancinci abancinci base-Italiya abanezihlangu ezibukhali bavavanya iiBlackBerry zabo. Intombazana encinci enxibe ilokhwe epinki ibonisa unodoli wayo umbono. I-piazza izaliswe kukukhanya okunomtsalane kwelanga le-Triestine elibhabha elwandle kwaye libambe amatye amadala. Ebusuku, ikhanya ngobuqaqawuli be-operatic, ubungangamsha bayo bumisa njengentliziyo phantse yayo nayiphi na indawo yoluntu eYurophu.

UTrieste? Phi? Uninzi lwabantu, kubandakanya amaTaliyane, banengxaki yokubeka iTrieste kunxweme olusempuma mpuma lweAdriatic, inyuke ngesihlwitha semephu, ngamanye amaxesha ifihlwe zizinto ezisisiseko, ioksijini yayo ifunxwe yiVenice, ummelwane wayo oqaqambileyo omalunga neekhilomitha ezingama-90. Ijikelezwe yiSlovenia kunye neCroatia, iOstriya neHungary inyuke nje ngendlela, le yidolophu ekumda. E-Trieste, iJografi yiyo yonke into-ulwimi, imbali, inkcubeko, ukutya. Emva kweMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi, uTrieste waba ngumdlalo webhola ekhatywayo kwezopolitiko, ephoswa phakathi kweMpuma neNtshona. Isixeko esine-polyglot sasine-Italiya ngaphakathi nangaphandle amashumi eminyaka, kodwa kwakungekho kude kube ngo-1975 apho iTrieste yaba ngokupheleleyo, ngokusemthethweni e-Italiya.

Ndindwendwele iTrieste ekupheleni kweMfazwe ebandayo, kwaye ndaziva ngathi yindawo engacacanga ephulukene nenjongo yayo. Naphi na apho ndandiye khona, inkungu yolusu lwalubonakala lunamathele kum. Ngexesha ndibuyela kulo nyaka, yonke into yayitshintshile. Isixeko endandisityelele — izakhiwo zaso eziqaqambileyo, ubomi basesitratweni, namandla aso — sasihlaziyiwe. Indoda inoxanduva, njengoko wonke umntu evuma, yayinguRiccardo Illy, owayengusodolophu ukusukela ngo-1993 ukuya ku-2001.

Intloko yenkampani yekofu yaseTrieste enegama lakhe kwaye ibiyinto ephambili ukusukela oko utatomkhulu wakhe wayiseka ngo-1933-uphawu olungu-Illy lukho kuyo yonke indawo-Illy wayedlala inkosana kwi-Sleeping Beauty yaseTrieste. Wabona kwidolophu yakhe amandla amakhulu njengeendlela ezibalulekileyo kwi-European Union, eyayiqala ukuzibandakanya neMpuma Yurophu.

Wacoca izakhiwo kwaye wazivula kwiinkomfa kunye nemibhiyozo. Waphakamisa iprofayili yeziko le-physics esele linempembelelo. Umeme umhlaba njengoko isixeko besisoloko sisenza, sisamkela, sinyamezelana, sinomdla kubugcisa kunye neliso lelona thuba liphambili. I-Trieste inehotele yoyilo kunye nendawo yokutyela yokulinga kunye nelebhu yokutya; kukho iminyhadala yeefilimu, imithendeleko yokutya, kunye nomnyhadala wamaCelt. Kukho iikonsathi zerock kwindawo yomculo. Njengosodolophu, u-Illy wanika isixeko ingqiqo yokuba sinekamva kunye nexesha elidlulileyo.

Kwihotele iGrand Hotel iDuchi d'Aosta, amanenekazi alapha ekhaya, iingxowa zeVuitton ziphethe ngesandla, behleba ikofu, bejonga lo mfana mhle, umhlathi omncinci wasePoland ongumenzi bhanyabhanya ojonge i-hungover kumnyhadala phezolo. Le yihotele yaseTrieste — wonke umntu uyibiza ngokuba yiDuchi; ngokwendlela esime ngayo ngoku, esi sakhiwo besilapha ukusukela kwiminyaka yoo-1870. IHarry's Grill, indawo yokutyela yehotele, inethala elikhulu kwipizza. Ngexesha lokutya iti ebharini, abalungiseleli, ngesaphetha esincinci, beza neziselo kwiitreyi zesilivere. Kwisidlo sakusasa kukho ikeyiki yetshokholethi kunye namaqanda kunye neothowuthi.

Khumbula uBukhosi base-Austrian, ithi indoda emelwe ngamanqina kwizinyuko zeDuchi njengoko ibutha ikapa yayo kwaye inyamalale kude kube kusasa.

KwanakwiTrieste entsha, edlamkileyo, imbali ibonakala indigxotha. Abo bakhenkethi bachaphazela iPortofino kwingqondo bayakhawuleza ukufakela ilebhile IHapsburg kuko konke abanako. Malunga no-1740, yayinguKumkanikazi waseHapsburg uMaria Theresa owayalela ukuba idolophu entsha ibekwe kwindawo eyayineeflethi zetyuwa, kanye njengokuba uPeter the Great wakha iSt. izixeko, ezakhiwe ngexesha elinye, ngabazala bokwakha. I-Borgo Teresiano, ebizwa ngokuba yi-Empress, yikota ethandekayo, umsele entliziyweni yayo, izitrato zigcwele iivenkile zeencwadi, iicawa ezindala, kunye nezindlu ezincinci, ezintle ezinokuba sePrague. Into endiyithandayo kuzo zonke iivenkile zedolophu ilapha: IFarmacia Biasoletto yonke'Orso Nero yikhemesti eyasekwa ngonyaka we-1821 yingcali yezityalo, kwaye igcina zonke izixhobo zokuqala - iinkuni ezintle; iglasi; ithayile; ipeyinti eyenziwe ngodaka kunye nepestle.

Kodwa kuzo zonke izinto ezinomtsalane zexesha likaTrieste, i-Museo Storico del Castello di Miramare yeyona ikhuthazayo: inqaba encinci nenqaba ethi, ebusuku, ikhazimle njengesanga ekukhanyeni kwenyanga. Eyakhelwe nge-1850 ngu-Archduke Maximilian, yeyona nto ibonakalisa gosa lomkhosi waselwandle, i-Victorian gent. Isifundo sakhe senziwe njengekhabhathi yenqanawa; ilayibrari eneencwadi kunye nengqokelela yobugcisa ekhethwe ngononophelo ibonisa ukuthanda kwakhe kwengqondo.

Njengokuba uBukhosi base-Austrian babusondela kubukhosi base-Austro-Hungary, baba sisityebi. Njengamanye amazibuko amakhulu — iNew York; Ehong Kong; IBombay — iTrieste nayo yayinyamezela. Imali phambi koThixo, ayisiyiyo indawo yokuhlonela uThixo. Okwangoku, kuyamangalisa ukuba kwidolophu encinci yase-Italiya, iinkolo ezintandathu bezikho ngoxolo ixesha elide (amaKatolika, amaProtestanti, amaJuda, amaSilamsi, amaOthodoki aseSerbia, kunye ne-Greek Orthodox). Izakhiwo zonqulo ziziphumo zodidi lwabarhwebi abazizityebi ababonisa ngaphezu kwayo nayiphi inzondelelo. Idome eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka eSan Spiridone, icawa yobuOthodoki yaseSerbia, inyukela esibhakabhakeni esifanayo neekomityi zaseSant ’Antonio Taumaturgo, icawa yamaKatolika. Kukho indlu yoonongendi yaseBenedictine kunye neSan Giusto Cathedral, ethi, kunye nemifanekiso yayo kunye nemifanekiso eqingqiweyo, isusela kwinkulungwane ye-12.

I-Trieste ihlala icingwa njengesixeko samaYuda. Ngemihla yayo, amaYuda amkelwa, kwaye achuma. I-ghetto yakudala, esemva kwe-piazza, ngoku iyikota ye-chic yeevenkile zakudala kunye nee-pubs. Okwangoku, kukho izakhiwo ezingenanto, uluvo lwehlabathi elilibalekileyo.

Ngasekupheleni kweMfazwe yesibini (II) yeHlabathi, amaNazi, enomsindo kukuba ama-Italiya atyikitye kunye neAllies, ahlasela iTrieste. Bahlanganisa amaJuda aseleyo bawabulala. IRisiera, indawo endala yokugaya irayisi kwisithili saseSan Sabba nje ngaphaya koohola bendlela abatsha, yayikukuphela kwenkampu yokubulala amaNazi e-Italiya kwaye ngoku iyimyuziyam. Nazi iiseli ezimxinwa, ezifumileyo, iindonga ezibandayo ezikrwitshiweyo nemihla, intsalela yendawo yokutshiswa kwezidumbu. Uninzi lwezikhumbuzo zeNkohlakalo zenze iinyembezi zibonakale kum zingenamsebenzi, zingabalulekanga. Kodwa iRisiera, mhlawumbi ngenxa yokuba ibonakala ingalindelekanga kwesi sixeko sithandekayo saselwandle, iyandenza ndilile.

Kwakuphakathi kwamaJuda awayezihlobo zakhe eTrieste apho uJames Joyce wafumana inkuthazo kaLeopold Bloom. UCaffè Pirona omncinci uthanda ukuqhayisa ukuba kulapho umbhali atya i-pastry yakhe yakusasa. Kufuphi neGran Canal kukho umfanekiso oqingqiweyo wobhedu kaJoyce, iqhina lokuthambisa kunye nendawo yokubhukuda, endaweni yayo, esiya mhlawumbi kwizifundo zolwimi azinikileyo ukuzixhasa.

Ukuba i-Adriatic eyolulela emhlabeni isuka eTrieste iyayichaza, ke, ngandlela thile, ngaba iKarst, umqolo weentaba zelitye lasendle ngasemva kwayo, ingxangxasi yeJulian Alps. UTrieste uhleli phakathi kwabo, umisiwe phakathi kolwandle nentaba. Phambi kwemizila kaloliwe noohola bendlela, iindwendwe zazihamba ngeKarst ukuya eTrieste ngamahashe neenqwelo, zihlala zikhangele abaphangi.

Kwimozulu elungileyo, iigadi zewayini ziphuma kuyo yonke iKarst, zihlala ziphawulwe ngotolo olubomvu. Ungena, unokuba kwindlu esefama, apho kukho iwayini eyenziwe kwalapha ekhaya, kunye nesoseji eyenziwe ekhaya okanye ipateni. Zimbalwa ezineedilesi. IKarst yindawo efihlakeleyo. Ukuba ulwandle lwenza ukuba iTrieste ibe sisizwe esinabantu abaninzi, esikhanyisiweyo saseYurophu, iKarst yongeza into ekujikeni kwaye iphantse yakudala.

Ngenye imini ndifumana ikhareji eya kwitempile yaseMarian yaseMonte Grisa. Ukusuka apha ungayibona yonke iTrieste, unxweme, iKarst eneefama zayo ezikude, umlambo ongaphantsi komhlaba, imiqolomba kunye nemiqolomba. Ngcwaliswa ngo-1966, yicawa enkulu yentsika yekhonkrithi. Abantu baguqa kumgangatho onzima, bethandaza. Ngokungafaniyo neecawa zeTrieste ezihonjiswe kakuhle kwaye zanxitywa, apha uziva ubungcwele bobukhuni, iinkolelo ezomeleleyo nezishushu ezenza ukuba kubonakale ngathi yiMpuma Yurophu ngokupheleleyo. Uziva ukuba phantse ukwiiBalkan. ISlovenia ziikhilomitha ezintlanu ukusuka kwiziko laseTrieste; ICroatia ilishumi.

Ikofu sisiyobisi esikhethiweyo sikaTrieste, intuthuzelo yaso, imemori yayo yokwenza imemori. Inkcubeko yekhefi ikhumbuza iBudapest okanye iVienna kuneRome. E-Trieste, ndiyalingwa ukuba ndonqenele ukuhamba iintsuku kwiivenkile zokutyela: kusasa eCaffè degli Specchi, kwipiza, apho ikofu iza ngqo, kunye notywala, okanye ne-ayisi khrim; ngaphambi kwesidlo sasemini eCaffè Tommaseo ukuze ufumane indawo yokuphefumla phakathi kweetafile ezenziwe ngeemabhile, izibuko ezindala kunye neekerubhi zokwenza udaka; ngokuhlwa, kwiJugendstil Antico Caffè San Marco. I-Dimly lit, ayitshintshi kangangekhulu leminyaka, iSan Marco likhaya labafundi kunye nababhali abachitha iintsuku zabo befunda, bencwasa, bethumela ikofu, ibhiya kunye newayini.

Kodwa, njengesiqhelo, u-pal Segrè unokutya engqondweni yakhe. Isidlo sasemini namhlanje siseChimera di Bacco. Ukulandela iklasikhi ngubani (imbotyi kunye nesobho se kraut), kukho inyama efakwe iitapile kunye nesampulu ye strudel. I-snack e-Trattoria da Giovanni elandelayo ilandelwa kwaye yosiwe ikhowudi (ikhowudi tsibela) . Ndifuna ukungqengqa.

Ngobo busuku ndifumana iteksi eya eAntica Trattoria Suban, kwindawo yokutyela eyaziwayo yeTesteste yenkulungwane ye-19. Ukuhonjiswa kuyinto encinci, uhlobo lwendlu yaseMpuma Yurophu, kunye nokutya, kugcinwa, yinyama. Iintsapho zihlanganisene zijikeleze iiplati zenyama yenkomo enencasa kunye nemvana ecaleni kwendawo evulekileyo. Iwayini zibomvu kwaye zinkulu. Konke kundikhumbuza ngohambo oluya eBosnia apho konke ukutya bekuyinyama, ngamanye amaxesha kuphela inyama; uphawu lokuchuma, kwabonakala ngathi yinto engaphathekiyo kangako, uhlobo oluthile lwamehlo abalimi.

UDa Pepi nangona kunjalo, esona sidlo silungileyo endinaso eTrieste siseRistorante Al Bagatto. Imizuzu embalwa ukusuka kwi-piazza, yinkohliso encinci kunye neentlanzi ezilula ezidibeneyo kunye nefriji encinci embindini wegumbi, ukubanjwa kosuku ekubonisweni. Nditya i-octopus stew nge-polenta ethambileyo, i-snapper tartare ene-chive ricotta, kunye neyona intle exutywe eqhotsiweyo -Ixube intlanzi eqhotsiweyo-endakha ndanayo. EAl Bagatto, ndisitya izitya zentlanzi zase-Itali (oh, amadombolo nge-mullet roe kunye ne-squid yolwandle!), Ndibuyele edolophini lase-Italiya langoku, ndibuya kwi-tryst yam ne-fin de siècle Mitteleuropa. ISlovenia ayisiyiyo.

Enye yezona zinto zingaqhelekanga eTrieste kukubamba izandla, zihlala zenziwe ngamatsheyini ezinyithi ancamathele kwizakhiwo. Phantse into yokuqala abantu abakuxelela ngayo ibora, umoya ovuthuza ngaphaya kweentaba, ngesiqhelo ebusika. Bambelela kwezo zokubambelela, kungenjalo ibora iya kukuwisa.

Andikwazi ukuqonda ekuqaleni ukuba kutheni wonke umntu ethetha nge-bora ngalo lonke ixesha, kodwa emva kwethutyana, ndiyifumana. I-bora ngamandla ka-Trieste endalo, i-mistral yayo, ekuphela kwento enobundlobongela eyenzekayo kule trim, isixeko esilinganayo.

Ndiziva ndilungile eTrieste, utsho u-Illy. Ukukhanya nomoya — ngenxa yolwandle, kumathafa eentaba ajikelezileyo nakwi bora — ngokwenene zahlukile.