Ukuba konke okwaziyo ngamaphandle aseJapan kunye neapos yinto oyibonayo ngaphandle kweefestile zakho zoololiwe ezihamba ngembumbulu phakathi kweOsaka neTokyo-isibhengezo esihle esilawulwa ngaphakathi kwe-intshi yobomi bayo-iHokkaido iyakumangalisa. Ezona ziqithi ziphambili ezisemantla eJapan zikwindawo ekhohlakeleyo, ebandayo, kwaye engazinzanga kakhulu, ebala iipesenti ezingama-22 zomhlaba ongowesizwe kodwa ziipesenti ezi-4 kuphela zabemi. Kukho izixeko ezimangalisayo kunye needolophu ezintle (kunye nokufa kancinci). Kodwa eyona nto itsala amahlathi ayo amakhulu (agubungela iipesenti ezingama-70 zesiqithi), iincopho zayo zentaba-mlilo (ezinye zisebenza ngomlilo), ihlobo lazo elipholileyo, iifama zalo ezinesimbo saseNtshona, kwaye ngaphezu kwako konke ebusika, ehlala iinyanga ezintandathu ezilungileyo kwaye izisa ikhephu elihle (i-intshi ezili-191 ngonyaka).

IHokkaido ebusika iyinyani. Akukho nto kwiincwadi zesikhokelo, kwiifoto, okanye kwiividiyo zeGoPro ezinokukulungiselela ubuhle obumangalisayo balo mhlaba uqaqambileyo. Akuyonto eyenzeka ngengozi ukuba uninzi lwegcisa laseJapan-u-Akira Kurosawa, Haruki Murakami, Takuboku Ishikawa -babeke umsebenzi obalaseleyo kwiindawo ezihlala ubusika. IHokkaido yindawo elingana nokusingqongileyo; Nalu ungqinelwano lweefom zendalo ezingaphezulu okanye ezingaphantsi kokulingana nomhlaba oshiye imic ... ngonaphakade.

IHokkaido lilizwe lakowabo iAinu, abemi bomthonyama abatshutshiswayo besiqithi, abathe ngenkani bayigcina inkcubeko yabo ngaphandle kwemizamo emihle yeenkulungwane zabahlali baseJapan. Ngumda omkhulu wasendle waseJapan. Ngumntla ngaphaya kodonga; nguMhlaba onzulu. Ingaphakathi eliphefumlelweyo laseScandinavia leLookafe Cafe eNiseko; umbono wentaba yaseYotei ukusuka kwilali yaseNiseko. UTakashi Yasumura

Esi siqithi sihlala sithandwa ngabantu baseJapan kunye nabadlali basebusika, kodwa mva nje uninzi lwabantu luqala ukuqaphela lo mmandla usemantla. Ukhenketho luye phezulu, ngakumbi kwamanye amazwe aseAsia. Abaphuhlisi baqaphele, bandise iihotele kunye neendawo, kwaye kukho namahemuhemu okuba abatyali mali baseTshayina bebesebenza ngasemva, bethatha amanzi kunye namalungelo ezimbiwa kuso sonke isiqithi. Kodwa umpu wokuqala wokwenyani uzakuvela kulo nyaka, xa itonela leSeikan leemayile ezingama-33 ubude elidibanisa iHokkaido nesiqithi esikhulu saseHonshu ekugqibeleni liya kuqala ukulalisa iShinkansen, okanye oololiwe bembumbulu baseJapan. Kuya kuthatha ngaphezulu nje kweeyure ezine ukusuka eTokyo ukuya eHakodate, isixeko esisemazantsi eHokkaido, ukwenza uhambo lweempelaveki olusuka eTokyo kungekuphela nje kodwa ngenene. Abanye bathi akukho nto iza kutshintsha-abemi besiqithi baya kuhlala besiba ngwevu kwaye bancinci kwaye bahlupheka. Izinto ezisisiseko ezikhuthazayo ziyaqiniseka ukuba indawo ekhokelwa ngabakhenkethi ekhokelwa nguShinkansen iya kuphefumla ubomi obutsha emantla. Umhlobo wam osenyongweni eTokyo uhlunguzela intloko kulo mbuzo wam, undixelela ukuba ndibuze iAinu ukuba bacinga ntoni.

Akukho nto kwiincwadi zesikhokelo, kwiifoto, okanye kwiividiyo zeGoPro ezinokukulungiselela ubuhle obumangalisayo balo mhlaba uqaqambileyo.

(Demethi.)

Ngalo naliphi na ixesha ndicinga ukuba eli lithuba lokundwendwela, xa izinto zisephakathi kwaye zingazinzanga kwaye zingaqhelekanga. Ngaphambi kokuba i-Hokkaido endala iphele kwaye i-Hokkaido entsha iqale, ngaphambi kokuba esi siqithi sibukhali, esinekratshi sithatyathwe nangayiphi na into ekulindeleyo.

Kuyakhithika eSapporo xa sifika emhlabeni.

Ihlala ikhephu eSapporo, kubonakala ngathi. Ngenxa yodonga olusisigxina lwemozulu yeArctic evela eSiberia, ikomkhulu laseHokkaido sesinye sezona zixeko zithembekileyo zekhephu emhlabeni. Ndinikwe konke endikufundileyo noko ndikuvileyo, ndilindele ukuba inqwelomoya yethu ifike kanye kwindawo yesaqhwithi esineqhwithi, i-tundra engqingiweyo. ILeoutout Cafe siskiya esifutshane ukusuka phezulu kwiNiseko gondola. UTakashi Yasumura

Isikhululo senqwelomoya esitsha saseChitose, nangona kunjalo, asiyonto iyintlango. Kangangoko kunokwenzeka ukuba isikhululo seenqwelomoya siphume, iChitose eNtsha iyavela. Kubonakala ngathi imodeli emva koloyilo lobugcisa be-Apple: icocekile, ikamva, kulula ukuyisebenzisa. Iivenkile ziphuphuma ngumbona otywiniweyo ongenanto kunye nee-whiskeys kunye nee-Ainu trinkets kunye ne-Nippon Ham Fighters jezi kunye ne-chocolate confection ngaphezulu kunokuba ungangcangcazelisa intonga e-Hokkaido, ngapha koko, idume ngee-dairies zayo. Kukushiya izulu kwaye ungalahla ngokulula isiqingatha semini kwaye zonke iiducats zakho zithenge apha, yile nto izihlwele zabakhenkethi baseTshayina zibonakala ngathi zizimisele ukuyenza. Umlingane wam waseTshayina-waseMelika-ndiza kumbiza Nks.Marvel-uyayiqonda intetho ngokukhawuleza. Beijing, yonke indlela.

Njengoko sirhuqa iibhutsi zethu zekhephu sisiya kwimpahla yethu ecaleni kwelungu lesithathu leqela lethu, iLa Bachatera — isiJapan ngendlela yaseFort Lee, eNew Jersey — ndibona ibhere yam yokuqala. Ndenze ibhere-ukubona indawo ephambili kolu hambo, kuba ibhere, ekudala ihlonitshwa yi-Ainu, isembindini wegama laseHokkaido. Le bhere, yeha, sisibhengezo kuphela, i-kaiju eyongamileyo ethimba inqaba ye-Sapporo TV ngokuswayipha enye inqina.

Icebo lethu yayikukuhlala ubusuku obunye eSapporo emva koko siziphose phambili siye kwiNtaba iYotei, intliziyo yokomoya yaseHokkaido. Inye kuphela into ekufuneka uyithathele ingqalelo xa undwendwela emantla ebusika, nangona: Imozulu iqhuba umboniso. UTakashi, umoniseli weenkonzo kwiCross Hotel, usixelela ukuba iindlela eziya kwiNtaba yeYotei zivaliwe ngenxa yekhephu. Mhlawumbi iya kucaca ngomso. Mhlawumbi akunjalo.

Kwiingcebiso zikaTakashi, senza imigangatho: ndwendwela iSapporo Clock Tower, enye yezakhiwo ezimbalwa ezisindileyo ezivela kwiKholeji yezoLimo yaseSapporo abacebisi baseNtshona abancedayo ukuyiseka kwiminyaka yoo-1870; hamba kwikhephu eline-esile elingqindilili ukuya kukhwela i-gondola ukuya kwii-Olimpiki zasebusika ze-Olimpiki zango-1972 ukuze ujonge iSapporo kunye namathafa aseIshikari; ukhenkethe i-Sapporo Brewery endala kunye ne-bug kuyo yonke intengiso yeediliya; I-Gambol ejikeleze iMyuziyam yeMyuziyam yoBugcisa yaMazwe ngaMazwe kunye neMyuziyam yaseHokkaido yoBugcisa bale mihla; kunye nokujikeleza izinto ngokutya i-Hokkaido soup curry e-Treasure kunye ne-Genghis Khan barbecue e-Itadakimasu (zombini zizinto ezikhethekileyo ze-Sapporo, kwaye zombini zibalasele). Kuwo wonke uhambo lwethu, ndisitya phantse rhoqo, ukusuka kwikona yestall gyoza ukuya kwiiyam ezithengisiweyo. Njengakwizixeko ezininzi zaseJapan, awusoze ube ngaphezulu kwama-20 amanyathelo okuphuma kubandayo okanye isilayidi eshushu sobumnandi, esenza ukuba ukunyanzelwa kokunyanzelwa kube yinto engenakwenzeka ukumelana nayo.

Ngobusuku nje obunye ubusuku, siya apho isenzo sithatha indawo: isithili sokuzonwabisa saseSusukino, esifana ne-jaded encinci, umntakwabo omncinci oncofiine ukuya eKabukicho eTokyo. Kule ndlela yokudibanisa imivalo, iivenkile zokutyela kunye neon, iziselo zigalelwa izigidi ngobusuku. Phantse kuzo zonke iikona zezikolo zababuki zindle ezinetyhefu bezama ukuloba amantombazana ukuba aye kwiiklabhu, ngelixa ngasemva kwabo bejikeleza isangqa kwiipaki zokuqubha, benikela — andikuthandi — ababopheleli bezele ngabasetyhini. Kulapho abantwana bakaHokkaido bafumana khona phantsi —Kwaye nalapho abakhenkethi bezonwabisa. Isitalato esikumbindi wedolophu iSapporo. UTakashi Yasumura

U-Dawn ufumana i-trio yethu encinci kwi-Curb Market, ejikeleza ujikeleze ikhephu elidala. Le yimpendulo ezimbini zikaSapporo kwiTokyoji yeNtengiso yeNtlanzi yaseTokyo, egqabhuke nononkala lokumkani kunye neembambo ezipheleleyo zomngxunya owomileyo kunye nolondolozo olubanzi lwemveliso yalapha. Umgibe wabakhenkethi, silunyukisiwe ngabantu balapha-kodwa ndingumgibe okanye hayi, anditsibeli isidlo sakusasa esixekweni ekuthiwa kukutya kwaselwandle okutsha kulo lonke elaseJapan. Ngelixa sithenga ibhokisi yeebhokhwe ezisongelwe zodwa zombona weHokkaido ukuze zikhutshwe, iLa Bachatera isencoko-incoko kumnini, umfo omde, ozithembileyo, ekucebiseni indawo yokutyela ye-sushi engaphantsi kwabakhenkethi.

UMarusan Tei ulungile, utshilo, ekhukhumele. Nditya apho mna. Ayibizi kakhulu.

Siphela kwitafile ende kunye nabakhenkethi baseJapan bodwa, kwiminyaka engamashumi amabini. Ikhamera yakhe inkulu. Ngokuphathelele ukutya kwaselwandle i-donburi, yi-super-oishii, ngakumbi i-uni. Iqabane lethu lokutya nalo liyavuma, lishiya ngqolowa enye yerayisi ngasemva.

Buyela ehotele uNksk. Marvel kunye noLa Bachatera badibana noTakashi, abathe babakhanyisela. Lo mfana mde, mhle, uyasebenza, kwaye ulunge ngokwenyani mfana usisibhengezo esihle seHokkaido. Isicwangciso sethu ibikukuya eOtaru emva koko siye kuNiseko, emva koko sityelele iMyuziyam yase-Ainu eShiraoi-silandela isangqa esijikeleze ngasekhohlo sijikeleze iNtaba iYotei. Kodwa uTakashi, onazo zonke iindaba zemozulu zamva nje, ucebisa ngokuya kwelinye icala ukuvumela ixesha elithe kratya lokuba iindlela eziya kuNiseko zicocwe.

Ikhephu liyawa kancinci xa sipakisha iibhegi zethu eteksini. UTakashi umi ngaphandle lonke ixesha kubanda ngaphandle kwengubo, iiflakes eziqokelelela ezinweleni zakhe. Njengoko sisuka uthobe ngokunzulu. Ndimele ukuba ndinomdla, kuba ukuzinikela kwakhe kuyandichukumisa.

Emotweni, ndibeke intloko phantsi. Xa ndivuka ndifumene umhlaba utshintshile. Singene yukiguni-Ilizwe leKhephu-ngokwenene. Ukuphakama, kudityaniswe nezaqhwithi eziqhelekileyo ezivela eSiberia, kwenza uNiseko athande ikhephu kunye neparadesi. UTakashi Yasumura

Ubusika bobusika bukaHokkaido buxakile kwisikali sayo kwaye buyadida kubunzima bayo be-mille-feuille. Ndijongile, ndingathethi, kukuqengqeleka kwekhephu laseSiberia, kwiialps eziphakamileyo ezikude, nakwihlathi elingapheliyo le-spruce eligubungeleyo. Ichibi iShikotsu liphambi kwethu, ichibha lechibi eliluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka njengeliso, lijikelezwe ziintaba-mlilo ezintathu kwaye zigutyungelwe yimithi eqanduselweyo, yemithi yakudala. Lo mhlaba yingoma yokwenene yomlilo kunye nomkhenkce. Ngeentsuku ngaphambi kokuba amaJapan afike, xa yayingu-Ainu kuphela, yayililizwe lengcuka, ukukhala kuphuma phezu kweentaba. Sise-Deep Hokkaido ngoku, ngokunzulu njengoko unokufumana xa ushushu, iklabhu engacaciswanga.

Kanye njengokuba ndiza kuthetha, impungutye ebomvu iphumela ngaphandle, isikhuzo sombala ngokuchasene ne-drifts. Isinika ukungakhathali okukodwa ngaphambi kokubuyela umva emithini. NjengoShimamura kwinoveli kaYasunari Kawabata Ilizwe lekhephu , Ndiva isifuba sam sinyuka ngobuhle obungachazekiyo.

Ubusika bobusika bukaHokkaido buxakile kwisikali sayo kwaye buyadida kubunzima bayo be-mille-feuille.

Isinyanzelo esihlala sihleli eHokkaido kukuba ezona mpawu zendalo ezenza ukuba ingathinteleki kubantu bangaphandle zezona bezikhe zakhusela esi siqithi kwasekuqaleni. Ngamawakawaka eminyaka le ndawo ikude, umhlaba ongenabunkunkqele yayinguAinu noAinu kuphela. Abantu bomthonyama abanolusu olukhanyayo kunye nemizimba ye-hairier kunamaJapan, i-Ainu yakha impucuko ye-animist ebonisa isimilo saseJapan sokuhlala kufutshane nendalo, ukulawula ukuba, njengoko uBashō wabhala, abahlobo namaxesha amane-ocinga ngawo inokuba ibanike ukupasa xa bathi badibana neJapan eyandayo kwiminyaka ye-1300.

Hayi, khange iyenze. Njengoko amaJapan atyhalela emantla eHokkaido, ukungena kwabo kwazisa urhwebo, utywala, kunye nemfazwe, kwaye ngokuthe ngcembe batyhala iAinu kwimimandla esemazantsi esiqithi. Kodwa i-colonization yaseJapan ye-Hokkaido yaphela ngo-1870, xa abaphathi baseMeiji baqala ukwesaba ukuba iRashiya ingasibamba isiqithi. Ke urhulumente wase-Meiji waphikisa uhlaselo olunokwenzeka ngenene. Amawakawaka abaphambukeli, uninzi lwabo lwahluthisa amalungelo ama-samurai, bathunyelwa emantla, bahendwa ngooncedo lwerhafu kunye nezibonelelo zomhlaba. Iindawo zokuhlala zoovulindlela zatshatyalaliswa yimozulu, izifo, kunye nokusilela kwesityalo-ukanti urhulumente, owayefuna bonke oovimba bendalo angababeka izandla ukuphembelela ukuphuculwa kwayo, akazange ayeke. Ekugqibeleni, iHokkaido yoyiswa.

Kwi-Ainu, yayisisiphelo-malunga nokusondela kwi-apocalypse njengoko unokufumana kwaye usajikeleze ukuba uthethe ngayo. Ngaphezulu kokubamba wonke umhlaba, amaJapan alandela umgaqo-nkqubo wokunyanzeliswa, ebamba i-Ainu amagama abo, ulwimi lwabo, inkcubeko yabo, kunye neetatoo zabo. Ii-Ainu zazingavunyelwanga kwi-salmon yokuloba-nto leyo eyayiza kufana nokuthintela amaJapan ekulimeni irayisi. Uninzi lwanyanzeliswa ukuba lusebenze phantsi kwemeko ezinje ngamakhoboka emigodini nasekulindeleni ulwandle lomoyisi. (Ukuba ufuna ukwazi apho iinkqubo zobukhosi zaseJapan zaseKorea, eTaiwan, nase China zaqala khona, sukujonga ngaphezulu kweHokkaido.) Ukwenza izinto zibe mandundu ngakumbi, urhulumente waseJapan wenqaba ukwamkela i-Ainu njengabantu bomthonyama kude kube li-Ainu activism Uncede ukubhukuqa obu bugeza-in Ngo-2008 . Ucalucalulo oluchasene nabo luhlala lusanda.

Kwaye, ngaphandle kwayo yonke into, ii-Ainu ziseHokkaido, zisenza umhlaba wazo. Kule minyaka imbalwa idlulileyo kuye kwakho ukuphinda kuvele ukuzingca ngesiko lase-Ainu. Abaphembeleli abasebatsha bathathe apho bebeyeke khona abantu abadala, kwaye ulwimi lwesi-Ainu, olusecicini lokuphela, lufumana imvuselelo encinci. Amagcisa anjengo-Oki Kanno noMina Sakai weqela lomculo iImeruat abubungqina bokusinda kwenkcubeko yeAinu.

Indawo yeAinu are IHokkaido, kwaye naphina apho ujonga khona kwesi siqithi uya kufumana umkhondo wazo. Kodwa ukuba ungumhambi kwaye ufuna ukubona u-Ainu kufutshane, amathuba okuba uya kugqiba wenze into esiyenzayo. Uya kukroba uye kwidolophu eselunxwemeni yaseShiraoi, kwaye phaya kunxweme lweLake Poroto uyakufumana iPorotokotan Ainu Culture Village. Ngeempendulo zezindlu zemveli ezifulelwe ngengca (chise), imyuziyam engathandekiyo, kwaye, okona kulungileyo, ukuthembeka ekulungeni iAinu, iPorotokotan lukhenketho lwenkcubeko yemveli kwincwadi yayo yesikhokelo. Igadi yeMiyanomori yeMbali yeMbali yeMbali yoBugcisa, eSapporo. UTakashi Yasumura

Olunye kuphela undwendwe sisibini saseTshayina. Ngaphandle kwamanani ethu acocekileyo, abasebenzi be-Ainu babeka intsebenzo kwenye yentsimbi ephantsi kombhobho omnyama wokomisa isalmon. U-MC uqhekeza isiqhulo ngendlela anxiba ngayo iimpahla zakhe zesintu zisithoba ukuya ezintlanu. Udityaniswe neqonga le-tatami ngabafazi abathandathu base-Ainu abanxibe iimpahla ezimbejembeje. Kwisiqingatha seyure esilandelayo, bahambisa intsebenzo ebandakanya ingoma, umdaniso, izifundo ezifundisayo, kunye nomboniso wemukri, uhadi lomlomo.

Emva koko, sibhadula sijikeleza amabala okwexeshana. Thatha imifanekiso phambi komfanekiso oqingqiweyo ongama-50 eenyawo wenkosi yeAinu. Ukutyelela imyuziyam kwaye uxinezeleke kwimbali eyoyikisayo ye-Ainu.

Kuphela kuxa sele siza kuhamba apho sibona khona iikheji. Kwezokuqala zimbini izinja ezimhlophe ezisempilweni zeHokkaido, ezitsiba ngochulumanco xa zisibona. Kwaye ngasemva kwabo, kwenye ikheyiji, equnjelwe emhlabeni, phantse engaziwayo, ibhere.

Ibhere yam yokuqala yokwenyani yokubona, kwaye ayisiyomchamo umchamo omangalisayo kodwa ibishwabana, ibanjwa elingenalo uluhlu kwikheji. Thetha ngononophelo ngento oyinqwenelayo. U-Ainu wayedla ngokuncama iibhere, ke mhlawumbi oku kubhetele kunokutyebiswa emva koko wadutyulwa ngeentolo. Kodwa andiqinisekanga.

Ucinga ukuba kuya kwenzeka ntoni xa sivula ikheyiji? Ndiyabuza.

U-La Bachatera uthambisa impumlo yakhe. Ndiyarhana ukuba mhlawumbi izakuphuma isitye.

Endaweni yokutyiwa, sithathe isigqibo sokubuyela emva eShiraoi. Idolophu ibonakala ifile kunokuba ifile; abantu abancinci, umqhubi wethu uyachaza, bonke baseSapporo. Sima kwindawo yokutyela yakiniku, Ushi no Sato, ukuzama inyama yenkomo edumileyo yaseShiraoi uTakashi asixelele ngayo. Ayindityhafisi, kodwa i-barbeque iphila ngokuqaqamba.

Ubusuku babusele sele sifikile kuNiseko. Siqhuba kancinci, kuba le nzulu yukiguni kunaleyo sidibene nayo ngaphambili. Iinyawo ezisithoba zekhephu ziwile ngeentsuku ezintathu kuphela, kwaye kulo lonke uhambo olukhweleyo sihamba phakathi kweendonga zekhephu eliqingqiweyo ngomatshini. Okokugqibela emaphethelweni edolophu singena kwivenkile elula ukuze siqhelane nayo, kwaye umbono wokuqala endibulisayo zimbini ezikrelekrele, ezimhlophe ski bros kwiibhulukhwe zekhephu ezigaxa iibhiya kwindawo yokupaka. IBarn, ibistro kwihotele yaseKimamaya eNiseko kwisakhiwo esikhuthazwe ziifama zesiko laseHokkaido; ipaseji eKimamaya. UTakashi Yasumura

Chitha ixesha elaneleyo eJapan kwaye ukubonakala ngesiquphe kwabantu abamhlophe besenza izinto ezimhlophe kunokuphazamisa. Ndiqaphele ezinye ii-dudes ezimhlophe ezinde eziphuma ngaphandle kwivenkile elula kunye neemeko zebhiya.

Asisekho eHokkaido, andithi? Ndiyabuza. UNks uMarvel, obonakala othukile njengam, uthi, andiqondi.

Sifaka kwakhona kodwa iibhloko ezimbalwa kamva umqhubi uyema ngesiquphe. Ndicinga ukuba kukho into engahambi kakuhle kodwa wakhomba ifestile yakhe. Kumgama osondelayo iNtaba iYotei, idume ngesona sikhoni sayo kwaye ngalamzuzu ngowona mbono mhle kwendakha ndawubona.

Ukuba ilizwe lekhephu linelitye lesithsaba, uNiseko mhlawumbi nguye. Apha phakathi kweentaba-mlilo zeNtaba iYotei kunye noluhlu lweAnnupuri kukho inkulumbuso yenqanawa yesiqithi, edla ngokubizwa ngokuba yiSt.Moritz yaseMpuma ngexesha layo elide, ikhephu elingaguquguqukiyo, kunye nomgubo we-champagne ofezeke ngokungaphaya kwendalo. Abantu base-Australia nabakwa-Kiwis baba ngabokuqala ukuguqula into kaNiseko ngethuba uqoqosho lwaseJapan lwangena ngesixhanti ngeminyaka yoo-1990-ikhephu elimnandi ngamaxabiso afanelekileyo ngaphandle kokuya kwisiqingatha sehlabathi-kodwa ngoku uNiseko unabalandeli kwilizwe jikelele elithanda ikhephu. Eminye imimandla yasemaphandleni iHokkaido isenokucaba, kodwa uNiseko uyachuma. Lonke olu thando lwamanye amazwe luye lwayiguqula le dolophu yaseHokkaido eleleyo yaya kwindawo ehamba phambili yokuhambahamba kunye nokuxinana okuphezulu kwamehlo angqukuva kwesi siqithi. Kwaye asithethi nje ngabakhenkethi; Kukwakho noluntu olukhulayo lwe-gaijin oluzinzileyo kuNiseko unyaka wonke-abahlali bolunye uhlobo. Imithi yeBirch emazantsi eNtaba iYotei, eNiseko. UTakashi Yasumura

Emva kokujika ngokungalunganga kwezi zitrato zihamba zihamba-amabali amabini aphakamileyo kwiindawo-siyakwazi ukufikelela kwihotele yethu, iKimamaya ebukekayo ka-Odin, enomgangatho wayo we-elm kunye negranite emnyama ngumntwana oqaqambileyo kaNiseko. Ekungeneni sidityaniswa sisibini esihle saseAsia. Emva kokubamamela imizuzwana embalwa, u-Ms Marvel uhlebela, eSingapore.

Emva kokulahla iibhegi zethu, saphuma saya kubusuku obubandayo, sikhetha indlela esijikeleze inyambalala yekhephu elisandula kuwa, sidlule kuzo zonke iintlobo zolwakhiwo olutsha, ezinye zinomdla, uninzi lwazo, zigqithile kwiilori zokutya kunye Iivenkile ezixakekileyo zokurenta i-ski, de ekugqibeleni sime phambi kozuko olukhanyisiweyo lwentaba. Isihlwele sekhephu ngoku sibuya kusuku lokubaleka, kwaye njengoko sihamba-hamba kukho amaxesha apho kuvakala ngathi kukho umntu oguqukele kuyo yonke idolophu. Kukho imiqondiso yesiNgesi ecebisa iindwendwe ukuba zingagabazi esidlangalaleni.

Isidlo sangokuhlwa siseBang Bang, enye yezona dolophu zithandwa kakhulu zedolophu, ipati yethu yanyinyithelwa phakathi kweentsapho ezimbini zase-Australia eziswiti. I-kushiyaki yenziwe kakuhle, ngakumbi i-hokke, nangona ndithandabuza ukuba ndiva ngaphezulu kwezivakalisi ezibini zamaJapan kuso sonke isidlo sethu. I-Ezo Seafoods, ethathwa njengeyona ibalaseleyo edolophini, ingezantsi nje kwesitalato-ezantsi kwekhephu, ngenene-ke siyanyathela ukuya kwiimbatyisi ezicocekileyo. Ngoku ukuba i-savory ithathelwe ingqalelo, U-Nksz Marvel ufuna i-dessert, ke iphelile kwi-Niseko Supply Co yekofu kunye ne-galettes. Kwisindululo esivela kubasebenzi baseKimamaya, sigqibezela ubusuku kwiBar Gyu +, indawo yokulala ebusuku efikeleleke kumnyango wefriji othi, ngenxa yekhephu elibalekayo, kujongeka ngathi ibekwe kwibhanki yekhephu. Sisela imalt yoichi kunye ne-yuzu mojitos. Xa sihlawula ityala lethu, uLa Bachatera ngentlonelo walatha kwiserver yethu yase-Australia ukuba imenyu inelizwi IsiJaphani lupelwe ngendlela engeyiyo.

Ummangaliso, utsho. Ndilapha lonke ixesha kwaye khange ndiqaphele.

Ngomso olandelayo sisibhakabhaka esikhanyayo esibhakabhakeni ukusuka elundini ukuya kolundini. Sithi nkxu kwindawo yokutyela yaseBarn, kwindawo yokutyela yaseKimamaya, kwisidlo sakusasa esikumgangatho we-A-nokuba i-toast ijongeka ngathi ikhutshiwe-kwaye emva kwentsimbi ye-espressos kwiGreen Farm Café sijongise phezulu ukuya kwindawo ephezulu yeNki Village Village Ski. Yikholwe okanye ungakholelwa, le nkwenkwana yesiqithi yayisisiqwenga somkhenkce esiqinileyo, kodwa emva kotyando lomqolo lwamva nje, ukuskiya akusekho kwi-ajenda. Kwisiphakamisi kuphela kwethu ngaphandle kweskis okanye iibhodi. Ndiziva nditsala lusizi, kodwa unokwenza ntoni?

Ndiza kukuxelela into ibenye: akukho nto ichaza ukuthandwa kukaNiseko ngokungathi usentabeni phakathi kwalo lonke elo khephu lizukileyo. Amathambeka aqingqwe nguthixo agcwele ukubhukuqa ngamanqwanqwa awo onke amanqanaba, ukusuka kwinto ebonakala ngathi yiyo yonke ikona yehlabathi. Kukho amaTshayina asezantsi kwindawo yokuqeshisa ikhephu ewela phantsi ngokushiya okukhulu; ii-aksenti ezininzi zase-Australia kunokuba bendivile oko kususela eMelbourne; amaFrentshi, nawo.

Amantombazana azulazula ngokuthatha iifoto, kodwa ndichitha ixesha lam elininzi kwithambeka ndithetha cwaka neNtaba iYotei, ebuhle bayo obuyenze yaya kuthi moniker iFuji yaseNtla. Emva kokuphantse ndenziwa ngaphezulu kwesiqingatha samatyeli, ndisiya kumantombazana. Ixesha lokubuyela edolophini. Ilifti kwindawo yeNki Village Ski. UTakashi Yasumura

Sinokubeka isidlo sasemini ePrativo ekucetyiswa kakhulu, ethe yona ingaphandle kwendawo yokubhenela, ngoko ke sibiza iteksi-kwaye kulapho sihlangana khona no-Ohtaka-san. Inokuthenjwa, inolwazi, ipholile phantsi koxinzelelo, kunye nengqondo yomdlalo we-Intanethi, u-Ohtaka ngoyena mqhubi umfunayo kwilizwe leSiqhwa. Ingathi akayikhathazi imibuzo yam. Ukunyamezelana kwakhe nge-gaijin kuphezulu ngenene.

Kwiminyaka elishumi elinesihlanu eyadlulayo abantu bamanye amazwe babeyinto yokwenene apha, uyachaza, kodwa akusenjalo. Xa ndimbuza ukuba ucinga ntoni ngokungena kwabantu bamanye amazwe uye athi cwaka ixesha elide kwaye athi sele ilungile malunga neepesenti ezingama-80 kwaye iipesenti ezingama-20 azintle kangako.

Ngaba uluntu lwaseJapan kunye nabaphambukeli banxibelelana kakhulu?

Uhlunguzela intloko. Hayi kumava am.

Ngokwento endiyibonayo, uNiseko mncinci kummandla wonxibelelwano apho iinkcubeko zidibana khona kwaye ngakumbi indawo yokukhutshelwa ngaphandle apho yonke imiceli mngeni eyenza ukuhamba eJapan kube nomvuzo-umqobo wolwimi; iyantlukwano kwinkcubeko; umthwalo oqhubekayo wokuba ungomnye kuluntu oluzingcayo ngobungqingili balo; abantu bendawo ngokwabo ngokwahluka kwabo-bavaliwe.

Ayindim ndedwa, naye. Nokuba isiqhulo somhlali sijinqa malunga nokujikeleza okungaqhelekanga kukaNiseko. Njengokuba uJoe, umlungiseleli wethu oliNgesi eNiseko Supply Co., esicacisela, xa isihlwele samazwe aphesheya kufuneka siphume kuNiseko, bathi baya eJapan.

Akukho tyala kuye nabani na, kodwa andizanga eJapan ukuya kujinga kwindawo ekhuselekileyo ye-gaijin-ndingayenza loo nto eBoston simahla. Kwaye ndinoloyiko lokuba inkumbulo ye-Ainu ayincedi-indishiyile ndingena moya wokuhlaselwa nangaluphi na uhlobo. Nangona ndingumhlaseli kakhulu njengaye nabani na.

Isifundo apha inokuba kukuba uza kuNiseko, zama ukuba ungaqali utyelele iAinu.

Ngentwasahlobo iShinkansen iya kufika eHokkaido, kwaye ngayo, kwikamva. Mhlawumbi, njengoko abanye bexela kwangaphambili, akukho nto iya kutshintsha, kwaye iidolophu ezinje ngeShiraoi ziya kuqhubeka ukubuna, abantu babo abancinci babalekela ngobuninzi eSapporo, eTokyo, nangaphaya. Mhlawumbi ikamva iyakuba kukubhalwa kweNiseko Invasion kubanzi kuso sonke isiqithi. Ndiyarhana ukuba kukho abantu abangathanda ukubona into enje isenzeka. Ulunge uNiseko kunesidumbu esifana noShiraoi, bangaphikisana.

Xa ndicinga ngekamva elinokwenzeka, ndicinga ngengcuka yaseHokkaido, esele iphelile, kwaye ndicinga ngebhere likaHokkaido elisecangweni lakhe, kwaye ndicinga ngeempungutye zeHokkaido endizibone endleleni, ezazisijonga ngathi asiyonto. 'I-galette igqityiwe,' isidlo sakusasa e-Niseko Supply Co Takashi Yasumura

Ndicinga ngoTakahashi eneeflakes ezinweleni zakhe.

Kwaye, ewe, ndicinga nge-Ainu.

Liza kubakho ntoni ikamva kwiHokkaido? Ingcuka, ibhere, impungutye? Ndiyayazi into endiyifunayo kwaye ndiyayazi into endiyoyikayo, kodwa ngekamva, ukugqwetha uThomas Mann: Andazi kwaye ngekhe undixelele.

Vumela ikamva lizise into eliyithandayo; Okwangoku ndiza kunamathela kuSapporo, kunye ne-swagger yayo entsha yokufa kunye ne-ramens yayo edumileyo. Kwaye ndiza kunamathela kwiHokkaido yelizwe lekhephu, hayi kuphela kuba iyinyani kwaye intle kwaye ixabisekile kodwa kuba mhlawumbi ngenye imini mna kunye nohlobo oluthile lwaloo bhere titanic ndiyibonileyo kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya sinokuhlangana. Ngethemba akazukuzama ukunditya.

Emva kwenye ikofu e-Niseko Supply Co. Ndithi kumantombazana, Singa? U-La Bachatera ubuza ityala ngaphambi kokuba ndigqibe ukuthetha.

Sibiza u-Ohtaka, kwaye sinethamsanqa kuthi ukhululekile ngemini, ke uyasinyusa kwaye yiyo loo nto kaNiseko. Siza kulugqiba uhambo lwethu apho uninzi lwabantu luqala khona ukusuka eSapporo: e-Otaru, kunye ne-glassware yayo edumileyo kunye nomjelo wayo obukekayo. Izibuko eliyimbali, liyasinda kubakhenkethi abakhubazeke emini eSapporo, kodwa ebusuku iba sesinye isidumbu.

Siza kufika ebusuku.

Kodwa oko kuseza kubakho kwixesha elizayo. Okwangoku sinendlela eninzi yokugubungela. Ndisenethemba lokuba nebhere lokugqibela.

Siphindela kwilizwe leKhephu. U-Ohtaka usixelela ngexesha lakhe kuMkhosi woKhuseleko kunye noonyana bakhe ababini, bobabini, kwangaphambili, eSapporo. U-La Bachatera uguqulela ngolonwabo kwaye uNks uMarvel uxakekile licandelo le-Otaru kwincwadi yethu yesikhokelo. INtaba iTengu. Indlu yeHering. IMyuziyam yeBhokisi yoMculo. Andikwazi ukuzinqanda ekujikeni ndibambe umbono wokugqibela weNtaba iYotei, i-Ainu eyayikholelwa ukuba yindawo yokuqala eyenziwe kwihlabathi lethu. Ukuyibona ekukhanyeni, ngokuchasene nesibhakabhaka esiluhlaza, imalunga nokukhupha intliziyo yakho.

Kwaye nayo iyanyamalala.

Ividiyo: Uyipakisha njani ihambo yoBusika

Iinkcukacha: Yintoni enokuyenza eHokkaido

Ukufika apho

Kude kufike uloliwe we-bullet, isiqithi sifikeleleka ngokulula ngenqwelomoya ngenqwelomoya iChitose Airport. Ukufika kuNiseko, khwela ibhasi ehamba ngenqwelomoya ukusuka kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya ukuze uhambe iiyure ezintathu usinge ngasentshona.

Iihotele

Umnqamlezo Ihotele eSapporo: Ukuhamba okufutshane ukusuka kwi-Sapporo Clock Tower, le propati iphakamileyo inika umbono wesixeko. ISapporo; crosshotel.com ; Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 133.

Kimamaya nguOdin: Igumbi lokuhlambela elinamagumbi asithoba elinamagumbi anesimbo saseNtshona kunye ne-spa eneebhafu zokuntywila. UNiseko; kimamaya.com ; Ukuphindaphindwa ukusuka kwi- $ 252 .

Iindawo zokutyela

Ubang Bang: I-izakaya ethandekayo eyaziwa ngokuba yi-skewers yayo ye-mackerel eyosiweyo kunye neentliziyo zenkukhu. Ngo-188-24-24 u-Yamada Kutchan, u-Abuta-gun, uNiseko; 81-136-22- 4292; skewers ukusuka $ 2.

I-Bar Gyu +: Ngenisa le oasis ngomnyango wefriji kwaye ubambe isiselo emva kosuku kumathambeka. UNiseko; gyubar.com .

Indawo yokugcina: E-Kimamaya ngu-Odin's bistro (ngasekunene), kukho imenyu yokwenyani yaseFrance kunye nodonga lweglasi olubonisa indawo enekhephu. UNiseko; nisekobarn.com ; Ungeniso $ 14- $ 28.

UMarusan Tei: Eyona ndawo ifanelekileyo yokutya kwaselwandle i-donburi kufutshane neMarike yeCurb. 20-1-2 Nishi Kita 12 Jo, Sapporo; 81-11-215-5655; Ukungena kwi $ 15- $ 28.

Ikhefi yeFama eluhlaza: Indawo ekhululekile yekofu, iti, kunye nokulunywa kwetafile. 167-6 Yamada Kutchan, Abuta-umpu, Niseko; 81-136-23-3354; Ukungena $ 8- $ 13.

Itadakimasu: Indawo yokutyela embindini egxile kwi-barbecue yaseGenghis Khan, isitya semvu egcadiweyo. 5-1-6 Minami 5 Jo Nishi, Sapporo; 81-11-552-4029; seta iimenyu ukusuka kwi- $ 10.

Ikhefu leKhefi: Ifikeleleka kuphela nge-gondola, le ndawo yokutyela inzima emantla eNtaba iNiseko Annupuri ineembono ezintle. UNiseko; niseko-village.com ; Izimuncumuncu $ 4- $ 17.

Niseko Supply Co.: Sipha i-champagne ngelixa ujongana ne-crpes kunye ne-galettes entsha kule ndawo yokubhaka ihlaziyiweyo. UNiseko; nguyenguyen-ngngce.com ; Iipatties $ 10- $ 15.

Prativo: Indawo yokutyela kunye nefama yobisi ene-buffet enkulu yemifuno kunye ne-ayisi khrim. UNiseko; milk-kobo.com ; Isidlo sasemini se-buffet $ 13

Imisebenzi

IMyuziyam yaseHokkaido yobuGcisa bemihla ngemihla: Indawo efanelekileyo yokubona ubugcisa besi siqithi, kunye nengqokelela enkulu yemisebenzi yeglasi yamanye amazwe. sokecaido.pref.hokkaido.lg.jp .

Imyuziyam yoBugcisa yamaZwe ngamaZwe eMiyanomori: Eliziko lineminyaka elishumi ubudala linengqokelela yobugcisa obomeleleyo, kubandakanya imisebenzi emininzi kaChristo noJeanne-Claude. ISapporo; neekhadi-art.jp .

UMyuziyam weSapporo Beer kunye neGadi yeBhiya: Iziko lolondolozo lwembali kuphela kweli lizwe, eligcinwe kwisakhiwo sezitena ezibomvu esineminyaka eli-125 ubudala esasikade siyifektri yeSapporo Sugar Inkampani. 9-1-1, North 7 Jo, Higashi-ku, Sapporo; 81-11-484-1876.